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About otter

  • Rank
    Hermit Crab

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    SONY PC-110
  • Camera Housing
    L&M Mako
  1. Certainly, I would either sell it with full disclosure or have it completely repaired. I am just not sure the system 's value would equal the repair cost.....
  2. Excellent points and good ones to ponder. With a nearly fully operational system, I am hard pressed to drop in the recycling bin. I also realize that while my friends are impressed with the quality, thats about as far as it will go.....oh well, such is technology! As for the battery situation, sorry for being unclear. The battery that seems to be failing is the in the pods, not the handles. It took a full charge, but when I turn it on, it immediately drops down to the next brightest and then next, and then off. I can repeat it over and over again. I swapped batteries/pods and the problem followed the battery. On that note, assuming I need to replace the battery in the POD, are there any other manufacturers? As for the infrared and checking the battery in the left grip, excellent point. I will definitely check it out. Thanks
  3. I purchased a PC-110 and L&M Mako with Sunray Halogen Lights about 6 years ago. for the most part, I only shoot warm water locations which is 3 - 4 times a year (another issue). On my last trip, I noticed that the infrared controls of the lights from the handles no longer work. During the trip one of the batteries finally failed (it didn't get a lot usage, but it was 'old'). I suspect the other will not be far behind. While I have been relatively happy with output, the limitations of the camera/housing (e.g. no controls for WB or Exposure) have created pockets of disappointment. Now I take responsibility for a large part of it (not researching enough), but I am trying to figure out whether its worth paying the ~$120/each for these proprietary batteries; something like $300 for the annual service or whether its time to upgrade to HD. There is no upgrade path with this housing. I am thinking about upgrading the lighting to HIDs. I have been reading about the challenges with the HC-7. I realize in writing this, its rather obtuse, but I am not sure where to go next... Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  4. What brand/type mask is it? Does it fog at the beginning of the dive or later in the dive? Is it frameless? Fogging is caused by condensation's (water) desire to bond to itself more than it wants to bond to air. It therefore creates 'beads' of water. The object is to get water to want to bond to glass more than itself and create a 'sheet' (which is transparent) vs. small little beads which are opaque. To accomplish this, you need to do two things. First you must clean the surface of the glass as much as possible from dirt, grime, etc... whose imperfections help create the beads. Secondly, you must 'fill in' the naturally occurring pores in the glass. To do this properly and consistently, you need a cleaner and a defog. The need for this can be increased depending on your diving environment (for example, lots of pool diving where there is body oils and sunscreen in a relatively concentrated area will drive up the need for more cleaning).
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