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JohnVila

Member
  • Content Count

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About JohnVila

  • Rank
    Triggerfish

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vanuatu

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    Nauticam srtobe arms, TTL converter
  1. Great thread - looks very interesting - quick question - if both LED outputs are used on my housing what would be the simplest way to trigger the mini flash if it were added as a third unit in lieu of focus light? Cheers John
  2. The IOS option is a no. Want to charge for every photo uploaded. However I will find an alternative. Thanks for the heads up
  3. Thank you - I will give the IOS version a shot! Appreciate your reply.
  4. Hi. Can you tell me about NoCrop - it is the most annoying part of the transition from lightroom to instagram!, particularly if a signature is used. I am new to Instagram and find the process a little frustrating. Cheers John
  5. Having used both I can comment! The nauticam system has its electronics inside the housing. To turn on and off you must use a switch in the housing, so if you want to set it the night before it will stay on the whole time. I have that system because it was available pre-installed. The leak sentinal is self contained and can be set and then turned off. Turn on again when ready and it continues where it left off. I liked that feature when I had the leak sentinal. Maybe take a look at the size compared to the nauticam, the exterior may be slightly larger. The latest leak sentinal is V5. The guy behind it is Miso Milivojevic (email info@vividhousings.com). He is very helpful! The v5 is a little more user friendly in terms of battery replacement etc than the v4 that I had. Just one point though, even though it is a bit of a pain not to be able to turn the unit off externally I must say that they really use very little battery power. I started using my D500 underwater on 24th March 2017 and have dived pretty well every weekend since then and I am still on the original battery. I have no qualms in leaving it on for a full day or more and a new battery is easy to keep handy. Either way I won't use the camera without a vacuum system! If there is anything else you need to know don;t hesitate to ask, I have clocked up quite a few hours on the rig now! Cheers John PS if interested in seeing some shots, I created a FB group called underwater Vanuatu to share shots taken here.
  6. I wanted to give a shout out to Pavel Kolpakov for his outstanding contributions on the Wetpixel forum and to me personally. I have been using the UW Technics TTL converter for a while now, but confess that I ditched TTL long ago and only shoot manual. On trip to Fiji recently the converter froze with the LEDs on. The only way to turn them off was to remove the batteries, impossible underwater! Pavel guided me through at the time and with his advice I completed the trip without losing too many shots. On returning home I have still experienced the problem on most dives but turning the camera on and off usually solved it, until last weekend when it froze up completely again. I contacted Pavel again and have to say I was blown away by his assistance, which was almost immediate. Pavel you are a true credit to the industry, it really is breath of fresh air to meet a person that is so willing to help and share their knowledge, and to resolve a technical issue when the need arises. The Wetpixel community are lucky to have you and I am truly grateful for your help. Regards John
  7. Hi On my housing I use the M14 bulkhead behind the on/off control. I find it is out of the way there and causes me no problems at all. This was installed at the time of purchase and I recall including a step up adapter if I needed to move it from m14 to m16 in the future. By having the adapter all your bases are covered if you need either bulkhead for an accessory on the future. Keep in mind I am talking about the Nauticam vacuum system. On my previous rig I had a leak sentinaI which I really liked. It was available in m14 or 16. The viewfinder will not affect anything. For what is is worth can I suggest that you go ahead and get the 45 degree viewfinder -- it takes a little while to get used to but once you get the hang of it you will wonder how you ever worked without it! It is good gear! All the best John
  8. Has anybody tried the Macro to Wide Angle Port on a cropped sensor? Cheers
  9. Hi Related to this old post --- I was preparing my Nauticam D500 Housing this morning and noticed a crack in the base of the right handle, next to the connection point with the camera. It won't be long before it breaks off. The housing is approx 2 years old and has been treated with kid leather gloves! Has anyone had a similar problem? Cheers John
  10. Hi What was your lens of choice for the photo side? Heading there early June and undecided as to which wide angle rig to take. Cheers John
  11. Good afternoon all I was hoping to get some opinions on gear choices from those that have travelled to Fiji. I have dived Fiji before but not with my camera gear. Whilst I understand all my gear and the relative applications of each lens, I am trying to figure out which would be the best wide angle combo to take for versatility. I won’t have room for it all! We are doing 2 dives with the sharks at Beqa then a 7 day cruise to the islands with macro and wide angle opportunities. My Camera – Nikon D500, Housing Nauticam. It can be assumed that I have all the necessary extensions and zoom gears etc. Macro – is sorted – 105mm and port. I have a 60mm but prefer the 105. Wide angle: Choices Tokina 10-17 mm with 4.33” dome, also have kenko 1.4 TC with appropriate gears, extension etc Tokina 11-16mm with 8.5” dome Mid range: Sigma 17-70mm with 8.5” dome I find I prefer the 8.5 dome over the 4.33 hence hesitating with the Tokina but the 4.3” is so much more travel friendly. I have had good results with the sigma behind the 8.5” dome. I am having trouble deciding – what would you choose? Regards John
  12. Thanks for the feed back Chris - I understand what you mean re the extra zoom. The problem I am having however is that I am unable to determine if Nauticam have the zoom gear for this lens - so far three suppliers have said it is not supported and Nauticam itself are looking into it. Has anyone used this lens in Nauticam housing? If so which zoom gear did you use? Port extension size? Cheers John
  13. Hi I have Nikon D500 in Nauticam housing. I already have the 4.33" and 8.5" domes along with 20mm and 40mm port extensions. Currently using the Tokina 10-17mm. I would like to try out some astrophotography and have considered the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 as a start. From this forum I can see that this lens has positive reviews for underwater use and I could use my existing 8.5" port. The nauticam chart recommends a 50mm extension - could I combine the 20 and 40 as a 60 and achieve same results? When I was back in Australia last week I visited a camera dealer and they recommended the 11-20mm f2.8 instead. I was hoping to get something I could use topside and underwater but have not been able to find too much information on the 11-20mm for underwater use. Any opinions on which would be better? I did notice that the N120 port chart from nauticam does not specify zoom gears for the 11-20mm or would the 11-16 still work? Cheers John
  14. Hi Wouter I tend to agree with ChrissRoss. Is your housing still ok or did you lose the lot ? I upgraded to dslr from an RX100II set up but kept the old system. I had also bought a spare RX100ii, brand new still in box. If it helps I could part with one? Seriously consider adding a leak sentinal to your RX100ii housing if you still have it! All the best John
  15. Hi - I just changed to a scubalamp P53 following a review on another wetpixel forum. It also has a strobe mode which may be useful for some. They are not cheap, but the quality is very good. I found mine at - https://underwater.com.au/shop/scubalamp-p53-video-strobe-light.html There are two things that I would change: - an attachment point for a lanyard - simple off - need to cycle through 5 modes to turn off. All the best John
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