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About JohnVila

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    Nauticam srtobe arms, TTL converter

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  1. Hi. If it helps - I used to leave them in as I can normally get 2 weekends of dives out of a charge BUT I learned a lesson - had a relatively minor leak on a z330 battery compartment and had left the batteries in until my next dive a week later. Had I taken them out after the first dive I could have cleaned everything up, however I lost the strobe. I now remove the batteries and the end of every dive day as a matter of habit.
  2. Thanks Bill - have left out in the sun - just packing it now to send back to Nauticam. Cheers
  3. You bet it is crazy. I could not believe my eyes. Particularly as I have had the smc stored with my other wet lenses with no issue, some of which are 8 years old plus. Always stored dry, meticulously cleaned. Peter Mooney onto it for me so we will see what happens, I have always found Nauticam service to be good.. Big issue is being over here in Vanuatu - freight at the moment is a nightmare, even to get a lens spanner! Cheers
  4. Morning all - I took my SMC-1 out yesterday and was surprised to find it had mould spots inside the first element which have sprung up in a matter of weeks. My inon wet lenses all fine just this one. Can this element be removed for cleaning? I note two pin holes which could take a lens spanner and it seems it can be unscrewed. I thought these lenses were sealed and thus very surprised to find mould particularly when it is looked after meticulously. I will place it in the sun to kill what is there now. With Covid however it is a major exercise to send anything from Vanuatu for repair! Any hints appreciated -- and yes -- I am ordering a dry cabinet - which will take at least 6-8 weeks to get here. All the best John
  5. Hi Chris and Dave Thanks for your replies. Yes I have the two Inons and Miniflash on at the same time. I retried at home last night and it fired every time with the same cable I used on Sunday! Go figure. Cheers John
  6. Hi all. Technical Question - I am using the backscatter mini flash with Nikon D500 / Nauticam housing. Using nauticam sync cord with sea and sea plugs. Cord seems in good condition (and have tried several others). I use in conjunction with two inon z330's which run from one dual sea and sea plug into a sea and sea adapter. The miniflash is also connected by sea and sea adapter. The z330's fire everytime. I am finding that the at times the mini flash just won't fire, pre dive no problem but then sporadic once on the dive. As of yesterday I can't get it to fire on land either. Connected to a compact camera with flash - no problem. It seems the pulse from the LED trigger on the D500 is not enough. Batteries fully charged in miniflash and new ones on flash circuit. I thought I had read somewhere that others had experienced issues - any advice on solving? My intention was to use it as focus light and snoot. All the best and stay safe John
  7. Hi. So many options out there! I switched to a Shearwater Perdix AI a year ago from an Oceanic OCi ---- and agree with Walt -- it is so simple to use, bit bigger screen than a watch style and can manage tech work if needed. I wear on my wrist . The other great thing is that the battery is an AA - easy to get anywhere, and very easy to change. I have done 130 odd dives on 2 batteries. Just one pet thing, I personally have kept my manual gauge as a back up (with a second console mounted computer) -- too many times I have seen divers rely on their transmitters and have one fail, run out of battery on a dive etc. Having the manual gauge means you can finish the dive. I personally don't rely on the transmitter alone. Cheers John
  8. Great thread - looks very interesting - quick question - if both LED outputs are used on my housing what would be the simplest way to trigger the mini flash if it were added as a third unit in lieu of focus light? Cheers John
  9. The IOS option is a no. Want to charge for every photo uploaded. However I will find an alternative. Thanks for the heads up
  10. Thank you - I will give the IOS version a shot! Appreciate your reply.
  11. Hi. Can you tell me about NoCrop - it is the most annoying part of the transition from lightroom to instagram!, particularly if a signature is used. I am new to Instagram and find the process a little frustrating. Cheers John
  12. Having used both I can comment! The nauticam system has its electronics inside the housing. To turn on and off you must use a switch in the housing, so if you want to set it the night before it will stay on the whole time. I have that system because it was available pre-installed. The leak sentinal is self contained and can be set and then turned off. Turn on again when ready and it continues where it left off. I liked that feature when I had the leak sentinal. Maybe take a look at the size compared to the nauticam, the exterior may be slightly larger. The latest leak sentinal is V5. The guy behind it is Miso Milivojevic (email info@vividhousings.com). He is very helpful! The v5 is a little more user friendly in terms of battery replacement etc than the v4 that I had. Just one point though, even though it is a bit of a pain not to be able to turn the unit off externally I must say that they really use very little battery power. I started using my D500 underwater on 24th March 2017 and have dived pretty well every weekend since then and I am still on the original battery. I have no qualms in leaving it on for a full day or more and a new battery is easy to keep handy. Either way I won't use the camera without a vacuum system! If there is anything else you need to know don;t hesitate to ask, I have clocked up quite a few hours on the rig now! Cheers John PS if interested in seeing some shots, I created a FB group called underwater Vanuatu to share shots taken here.
  13. I wanted to give a shout out to Pavel Kolpakov for his outstanding contributions on the Wetpixel forum and to me personally. I have been using the UW Technics TTL converter for a while now, but confess that I ditched TTL long ago and only shoot manual. On trip to Fiji recently the converter froze with the LEDs on. The only way to turn them off was to remove the batteries, impossible underwater! Pavel guided me through at the time and with his advice I completed the trip without losing too many shots. On returning home I have still experienced the problem on most dives but turning the camera on and off usually solved it, until last weekend when it froze up completely again. I contacted Pavel again and have to say I was blown away by his assistance, which was almost immediate. Pavel you are a true credit to the industry, it really is breath of fresh air to meet a person that is so willing to help and share their knowledge, and to resolve a technical issue when the need arises. The Wetpixel community are lucky to have you and I am truly grateful for your help. Regards John
  14. Hi On my housing I use the M14 bulkhead behind the on/off control. I find it is out of the way there and causes me no problems at all. This was installed at the time of purchase and I recall including a step up adapter if I needed to move it from m14 to m16 in the future. By having the adapter all your bases are covered if you need either bulkhead for an accessory on the future. Keep in mind I am talking about the Nauticam vacuum system. On my previous rig I had a leak sentinaI which I really liked. It was available in m14 or 16. The viewfinder will not affect anything. For what is is worth can I suggest that you go ahead and get the 45 degree viewfinder -- it takes a little while to get used to but once you get the hang of it you will wonder how you ever worked without it! It is good gear! All the best John
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