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Everything posted by JohnVila

  1. I have only tried the 45 degree - it took a few dives to get used to but now it is second nature. I really like it! Cheers John
  2. Thank you Chris and Isaac - understood. Yes there is too big a gap to try the Tamron, I am not overly keen on that lens. Given the reduced field of view -- maybe I could switch out to the 130 degree objective lens? Saves buying another port and lens. If I can get away with using my existing port and 105mm that would be my preference. I note also on the port chart that for the 60mm on APSC they recommend a hoya +4 adapter. Thanks for your help Cheers John
  3. Good morning from Vanuatu Has anybody tried the EMWL on nikon d500? I am taking the plunge and getting the kit with 100 degree optics. It was suggested to me that the 105mm could have vignetting and that the 60mm may be better. The 105mm is my goto lens. We have an old 60mm tamron lying around but no 60mm port. The tamron lens is fine behind the 105mm port. The exercise gets a bit more costly if i need to get a 60mm nikon and port. Any thoughts appreciated Cheers John
  4. Hi... I note your are in Hawaii - is there a problem with Crown of Thorns starfish there, given there is one in your pic? They have been a real problem here in Vanuatu. Cheers John
  5. Hi. If it helps - I used to leave them in as I can normally get 2 weekends of dives out of a charge BUT I learned a lesson - had a relatively minor leak on a z330 battery compartment and had left the batteries in until my next dive a week later. Had I taken them out after the first dive I could have cleaned everything up, however I lost the strobe. I now remove the batteries and the end of every dive day as a matter of habit.
  6. Thanks Bill - have left out in the sun - just packing it now to send back to Nauticam. Cheers
  7. You bet it is crazy. I could not believe my eyes. Particularly as I have had the smc stored with my other wet lenses with no issue, some of which are 8 years old plus. Always stored dry, meticulously cleaned. Peter Mooney onto it for me so we will see what happens, I have always found Nauticam service to be good.. Big issue is being over here in Vanuatu - freight at the moment is a nightmare, even to get a lens spanner! Cheers
  8. Morning all - I took my SMC-1 out yesterday and was surprised to find it had mould spots inside the first element which have sprung up in a matter of weeks. My inon wet lenses all fine just this one. Can this element be removed for cleaning? I note two pin holes which could take a lens spanner and it seems it can be unscrewed. I thought these lenses were sealed and thus very surprised to find mould particularly when it is looked after meticulously. I will place it in the sun to kill what is there now. With Covid however it is a major exercise to send anything from Vanuatu for repair! Any hints appreciated -- and yes -- I am ordering a dry cabinet - which will take at least 6-8 weeks to get here. All the best John
  9. Hi Chris and Dave Thanks for your replies. Yes I have the two Inons and Miniflash on at the same time. I retried at home last night and it fired every time with the same cable I used on Sunday! Go figure. Cheers John
  10. Hi all. Technical Question - I am using the backscatter mini flash with Nikon D500 / Nauticam housing. Using nauticam sync cord with sea and sea plugs. Cord seems in good condition (and have tried several others). I use in conjunction with two inon z330's which run from one dual sea and sea plug into a sea and sea adapter. The miniflash is also connected by sea and sea adapter. The z330's fire everytime. I am finding that the at times the mini flash just won't fire, pre dive no problem but then sporadic once on the dive. As of yesterday I can't get it to fire on land either. Connected to a compact camera with flash - no problem. It seems the pulse from the LED trigger on the D500 is not enough. Batteries fully charged in miniflash and new ones on flash circuit. I thought I had read somewhere that others had experienced issues - any advice on solving? My intention was to use it as focus light and snoot. All the best and stay safe John
  11. Hi. So many options out there! I switched to a Shearwater Perdix AI a year ago from an Oceanic OCi ---- and agree with Walt -- it is so simple to use, bit bigger screen than a watch style and can manage tech work if needed. I wear on my wrist . The other great thing is that the battery is an AA - easy to get anywhere, and very easy to change. I have done 130 odd dives on 2 batteries. Just one pet thing, I personally have kept my manual gauge as a back up (with a second console mounted computer) -- too many times I have seen divers rely on their transmitters and have one fail, run out of battery on a dive etc. Having the manual gauge means you can finish the dive. I personally don't rely on the transmitter alone. Cheers John
  12. Great thread - looks very interesting - quick question - if both LED outputs are used on my housing what would be the simplest way to trigger the mini flash if it were added as a third unit in lieu of focus light? Cheers John
  13. The IOS option is a no. Want to charge for every photo uploaded. However I will find an alternative. Thanks for the heads up
  14. Thank you - I will give the IOS version a shot! Appreciate your reply.
  15. Hi. Can you tell me about NoCrop - it is the most annoying part of the transition from lightroom to instagram!, particularly if a signature is used. I am new to Instagram and find the process a little frustrating. Cheers John
  16. Having used both I can comment! The nauticam system has its electronics inside the housing. To turn on and off you must use a switch in the housing, so if you want to set it the night before it will stay on the whole time. I have that system because it was available pre-installed. The leak sentinal is self contained and can be set and then turned off. Turn on again when ready and it continues where it left off. I liked that feature when I had the leak sentinal. Maybe take a look at the size compared to the nauticam, the exterior may be slightly larger. The latest leak sentinal is V5. The guy behind it is Miso Milivojevic (email info@vividhousings.com). He is very helpful! The v5 is a little more user friendly in terms of battery replacement etc than the v4 that I had. Just one point though, even though it is a bit of a pain not to be able to turn the unit off externally I must say that they really use very little battery power. I started using my D500 underwater on 24th March 2017 and have dived pretty well every weekend since then and I am still on the original battery. I have no qualms in leaving it on for a full day or more and a new battery is easy to keep handy. Either way I won't use the camera without a vacuum system! If there is anything else you need to know don;t hesitate to ask, I have clocked up quite a few hours on the rig now! Cheers John PS if interested in seeing some shots, I created a FB group called underwater Vanuatu to share shots taken here.
  17. I wanted to give a shout out to Pavel Kolpakov for his outstanding contributions on the Wetpixel forum and to me personally. I have been using the UW Technics TTL converter for a while now, but confess that I ditched TTL long ago and only shoot manual. On trip to Fiji recently the converter froze with the LEDs on. The only way to turn them off was to remove the batteries, impossible underwater! Pavel guided me through at the time and with his advice I completed the trip without losing too many shots. On returning home I have still experienced the problem on most dives but turning the camera on and off usually solved it, until last weekend when it froze up completely again. I contacted Pavel again and have to say I was blown away by his assistance, which was almost immediate. Pavel you are a true credit to the industry, it really is breath of fresh air to meet a person that is so willing to help and share their knowledge, and to resolve a technical issue when the need arises. The Wetpixel community are lucky to have you and I am truly grateful for your help. Regards John
  18. Hi On my housing I use the M14 bulkhead behind the on/off control. I find it is out of the way there and causes me no problems at all. This was installed at the time of purchase and I recall including a step up adapter if I needed to move it from m14 to m16 in the future. By having the adapter all your bases are covered if you need either bulkhead for an accessory on the future. Keep in mind I am talking about the Nauticam vacuum system. On my previous rig I had a leak sentinaI which I really liked. It was available in m14 or 16. The viewfinder will not affect anything. For what is is worth can I suggest that you go ahead and get the 45 degree viewfinder -- it takes a little while to get used to but once you get the hang of it you will wonder how you ever worked without it! It is good gear! All the best John
  19. Has anybody tried the Macro to Wide Angle Port on a cropped sensor? Cheers
  20. Hi Related to this old post --- I was preparing my Nauticam D500 Housing this morning and noticed a crack in the base of the right handle, next to the connection point with the camera. It won't be long before it breaks off. The housing is approx 2 years old and has been treated with kid leather gloves! Has anyone had a similar problem? Cheers John
  21. Hi What was your lens of choice for the photo side? Heading there early June and undecided as to which wide angle rig to take. Cheers John
  22. Good afternoon all I was hoping to get some opinions on gear choices from those that have travelled to Fiji. I have dived Fiji before but not with my camera gear. Whilst I understand all my gear and the relative applications of each lens, I am trying to figure out which would be the best wide angle combo to take for versatility. I won’t have room for it all! We are doing 2 dives with the sharks at Beqa then a 7 day cruise to the islands with macro and wide angle opportunities. My Camera – Nikon D500, Housing Nauticam. It can be assumed that I have all the necessary extensions and zoom gears etc. Macro – is sorted – 105mm and port. I have a 60mm but prefer the 105. Wide angle: Choices Tokina 10-17 mm with 4.33” dome, also have kenko 1.4 TC with appropriate gears, extension etc Tokina 11-16mm with 8.5” dome Mid range: Sigma 17-70mm with 8.5” dome I find I prefer the 8.5 dome over the 4.33 hence hesitating with the Tokina but the 4.3” is so much more travel friendly. I have had good results with the sigma behind the 8.5” dome. I am having trouble deciding – what would you choose? Regards John
  23. Thanks for the feed back Chris - I understand what you mean re the extra zoom. The problem I am having however is that I am unable to determine if Nauticam have the zoom gear for this lens - so far three suppliers have said it is not supported and Nauticam itself are looking into it. Has anyone used this lens in Nauticam housing? If so which zoom gear did you use? Port extension size? Cheers John
  24. Hi I have Nikon D500 in Nauticam housing. I already have the 4.33" and 8.5" domes along with 20mm and 40mm port extensions. Currently using the Tokina 10-17mm. I would like to try out some astrophotography and have considered the Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 as a start. From this forum I can see that this lens has positive reviews for underwater use and I could use my existing 8.5" port. The nauticam chart recommends a 50mm extension - could I combine the 20 and 40 as a 60 and achieve same results? When I was back in Australia last week I visited a camera dealer and they recommended the 11-20mm f2.8 instead. I was hoping to get something I could use topside and underwater but have not been able to find too much information on the 11-20mm for underwater use. Any opinions on which would be better? I did notice that the N120 port chart from nauticam does not specify zoom gears for the 11-20mm or would the 11-16 still work? Cheers John
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