chrisdarke

Yeah the D2 has always had an issue with less sensitivity on the sensor.. the D3 more so even! I bought a D1 and then a D2 to use with a sony on direct strobe trigger, then when I upgraded to a DSLR rig with a Aquatica LED trigger I ran into that issue and tried so many different Fiber Optics, keeping the setup daisy chained while the search continued... in the end I gave up and just made my own custom Fiber Optic with Toslink cable that I run from one strobe to the other attached to the arms.. then I just run one FO from the housing to the D1.. it has worked fine for many years, I guess I just got used to it!

I made a hard cap for mine with a sewage pipe end. I covered the pvc in a thin layer of foam sheeting from an art supply. Can’t find a photo right now.

here you go

I have the V4 on the the right hand bulkhead, I never used the surveyor vacuum system though its good to know its there as a backup if the Sentinel dies for some reason! I totally love being able to set the vacuum earlier on, leave it testing for 30 minutes, then switch it off and just turn it on before kitting up. If you need photos let me know (have the same housing)

You could try a 16.8 v charger off of amazon, as long as the tip fits and is the right polarity, maybe it won’t charge as fast with a 2amp charger that’s easier to find but should be fine as far as I am aware.

Some kind of Molex connector? Maybe some profile photos and face on might give more insight? You might be able to contact customer support at molex.

Thanks!! Don’t know why I wasn’t notified of these replies. In any case I gave up trying the ys arms as the bolts for the ball mounts are galvanically corroded into place! Good to know it should be a snug fit though, those arms were definitely too loose

Hi all, just got some ball to ys adapters to mount the strobes on for my compact setup, doing away with one pair of ball clamps and one pair of ball end arms. However I have never used the ys mounts from my strobes before. There seems to be a lot of space between the strobe YS clamp and the YS end of the arm, so I have to crank it quite tight to stop movement. Does anyone know what the thickness of the YS arm should be? I am wondering if these cheap arms are not to spec, or is it usual to have to tighten quite a bit before any sort of friction is generated?

If novus is anything like using micromesh, with the first 1/3 of the process the whole dome should look opaque as the whole surface is basically 'sanded down'. I would dry it off continually to check how the progress was going because wet its impossible to tell, then when its all an even opaque, start working on the finer grits till its transparent again. Not sure how the process is with novus but I would assume you haven't given it enough elbow grease yet

I would recommend http://micro-surface.com/index.php/nc-78-1-acrylic-restoral-kit.html You do need to take your time specially in the starting grits (coarser stuff) if there are deep scratches, took me a couple of hours to work out some scratches but that kit has all the stuff needed to leave it looking super shiny.

Hi guys, So I have ordered an Ikelite 6233.06 housing for a wee TG-6 I just got, for times I don't want to lug around my DSLR. I managed to find a cheapo INON UWL-H100 with LD adapter on the back and I need to get a 67mm screw fitting for it to fit it to the housing, but I see there are two types, type 1 and 2. Now on one site I see the UWL-H100 type 2 as a bundle option with the housing, and on another site I see the Type 1 as a bundle option! Which is the better option for this housing/camera combo? Cheers!! Chris

Hiya! I ran across one on ebay a while back and asked a friend of mine who is a professional underwater photographer from italy (where that leo is made). His reply was 'I know it very well but is not good. Slow shooting and a lot of others problem'. So I could see why that might be an issue.. everything that gets between your finger and the shutter button is going to add delay, even if its thousandths of a second. If the processing unit has to 'DO' something to trigger the shutter and at the same time you are tweaking other settings, and firmware isnt up to date, etc, I can see that being an issue. Also its pretty bulky!! Depends if that is a priority. And adding another layer of complexity, another set of batteries/electronics that can go wrong, plus a limited control set? Not sure, would need to be able to rent one to try out for a while to make my mind up!

Thanks for your reply, it was more a question of which housings support such a setup. Most led triggers need to be correctly aligned and positioned for the led ports to get the trigger through and I looked at compact housings for many cameras including the rx100mk2 which I was aware was the only one in the lineup with a hotshoe, but none of the housings I could find mentioned a led trigger option.. certainly with my aquatica led trigger it would never fit in the pop up flash space of my nauticam housing... so I am looking for a compact housing that supports an led trigger or at least an ikelite type bulkhead connector

Hi guys, I used to use an RX100 in a Nauticam housing with YS-D1 & D2, and then I upgraded to a D500 in an Aquatica housing with an LED Flash trigger and I love not having to deal with the built in camera flash recharge time, and consequent battery drainage. However sometimes the DSLR setup is pretty bulky when traveling, and I wouldnt mind a backup setup that is more or less compact and as a backup, and whilst I still have the RX100 setup, I would love something with which I can use an LED trigger or a bulkhead connection if that isnt feasible. The only rigs I have seen that have an led trigger seem to be dslr/mirror less.. Cheers! Chris