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About jarhed

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel
  • Birthday 10/11/1976

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Yokosuka, Japan
  • Interests
    SCUBA/Underwater Photography<br />Travel

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon 240
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arms
  1. This is not accurate at all. This is based solely on drift models. There are water monitors right offshore the power plant that constantly test the water and the fish showing levels well below anything considered unsafe. http://radioactivity.mext.go.jp/en/ http://radioactivity.mext.go.jp/en/monitor...1330_031618.pdf Theres's no good data regarding the initially amount released (source) and no good data regarding the concentrations of the type of contamination (Iodine vs cesium's uranium) Additionally the Iodine isotopes break down very quickly (matter of weeks) and most of the contamination was iodine related (but some cesium and uranium was detected). This drift model cannot account for these factors (especially that iodine isotopes have a half life of ~8days) do not put stock in this graphic, it's not based on enough facts to accurately represent the situation. Thanks, john
  2. Happy with smugmug for a few years now http://overundertravels.smugmug.com/ take care, john
  3. Very much appreciate the advice, thank you for your time. John
  4. I will be staying in Pemuteran for a few days at the Amertha Bali Villa. Looking for a recommendation for a good dive ops, especially for photogs. I especially have heard good things about secret bay, so that's on the list. Any other sites I should focus on? Appreciate any tips. Thanks, John
  5. Wow, really love the sea krait! that's not an easy shot! Great shots all around. thanks for sharing john
  6. I would be happy to have this picture in my portfolio, but agree with Steve, works better as a vertical framing. Thanks for showing, John
  7. It's not clear to me why the larger bayonet style locking rings cannot be used on the wide end of the compact port base, they still lock into place on the compact port base. For example, Compact port 30 + compact port base for Nikon 60mm 2.8D add the regular Ext Ring 40 to the above combo to use with the 105mm VR instead of buying the the Compact Port Ext 40. Need the Ext Ring 40 for the 10-17 + 1.4 anyway (if you have the Nauticam mini dome) Am I missing something? it seems watertight and "lock-able". Thanks, John
  8. I used the YS 90 DX and YS 90 DUO combo strobes w/ a S&S Dx 200 w/ & w/o a TTL converter for several years with no problems at all. I always used separate sync cords, but I'm not sure if that makes any difference. No issues at all, these work very well together... take care, john
  9. Make sure you check the dome for little bubbles, often. in the shallow water, there's not enough pressure to collapse them and they tend to collect on the dome. take care, john
  10. Here's a few from the manta dive, it was challenging, mostly due to all the stuff in the water (plankton attracted to the lights, and all the silt kicked up by the numerous divers there.) Overall a fun and very rewarding experience. We were luck to have over a dozen mantas feeding around us for about an hour. I used the Tokina 10-17 for these and generally used other lights to focus to avoid all the "stuff" attracted to the lights from gathering in front of my dome. because the D200 isn't too good at high ISO, I tried to keep it below ISO 200. Take care, john
  11. To Follow up, The Black Water dive was fantastic! a truly unique experience. I used a D200 w/ 60mm 2.8 D. 2x 90DX strobes on manual control and 2 focus lights. One to look far and one pointed to illuminate the critters once I had them in front of my lens. I shot w/ autofocus, which seems good enough. the surge was just enough to make manual focus really hard. I went with "Big Island Divers" which offer the Manta night dive and Black Water dive back-to-back on the same night. It makes for a long evening and we didn't get back until almost midnight, but that fit with my schedule better. below are a few pics from the evening: Take care, John
  12. Hi beth, I've actually been reading up on the subject as I am planning my first trip to dive in Kona also. here's a few links I found after a quick search that seem to have some good tips. Black Water Night Dive Kona "Pelagic Magic" black water I intend to start with my Nikon 60mm Macro, easy and fast focus. depending on how it does I may try the 105mm. I'll bring lots of light and just play with the strobes alot. Take care, john
  13. Thanks for looking through the web site, the yonaguni monument dives are unique. some still think that they are possibly a natural formation, but I do not believe that. I understand that they must be at least 2000 - 3000 yrs old to have been above sea level, maybe older (another estimate puts it at around 10,000 yrs old). After seeing the monument, it is very clear to me that it is at least man modified. it's well worth a look if you're in the area, but the diving conditions are very difficult. we did live drops into very strong currents and an 8ft chop. seas are warmer in the summer, but winter is the best time to see hammerheads which are fun too. Take care, john
  14. Regarding the 105mm, I think the duel element diopters like the nikon 5T and 6T lenses (62mm threads) are best (Canon also makes good duel element diopters which will work with Nikon lenses fine since the threads match.) the difference between the 5T &6T is the strength (+1.5 and +2.9). The greater the strength, the closer the lens can focus, meaning the greater the magnification. Nikon no longer produces these diopters though, so you need to buy used (KEH, e-bay, etc) Canon close up lenses are easier to find. I also have the nikon 60mmD, which already focuses so close to the port that there's really no advantage to using a diopter, but makes an excellent fish lens as Alex stated. Take care, john
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