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Everything posted by emilio_goncalvez

  1. Hello thanks to your forum to exist. I made a big mistake and I left my housing closed for two months or even more (certainly more). I was 500% sure that the housing was open but I was wrong, and the camera was inside as well. Now seems that I do have mold inside as I was not really serious at all about this. How can I clean the housing conscientiously? I'd like to kill all this but I'm worried to damaged the housing OR not kill everything properly. the housing is a fantasea for RX100 IV thanks a lot in advance
  2. Hello I hope you are well? I received everything this afternoon I wanted to ask a few questions because I have some areas of darkness to clear but also because certainly some people will follow the same path as me and may be left with the same questions, so try to help as much as many peoples helped on this forum. So to start, it's impressive to receive everything and to unpack everything. There are a lot of elements, and the last time I felt that way was when I had to assemble my entire computer tower. To get out of it you have to read and follow the instructions in the manuals. I bought : fews accessories Sony RX100 IV FRX100 V Housing Inon S-2000Strobe Set with flexarm https://www.uwcamerastore.com/inon-s-2000-flitserset-met-weefine-flexarm( Inon S2000 strobe & Inon Z-adapter & Weefine Flexarm with grip & Inon optical cable ) 1) I saw an option to make communicate the flash and the camera without the cable (Wireless connection) but I thought that my system was not compatible and I decided to use the cable. Am I right? If I'm wrong what are the differences between the 2 systems? (Wireless & Cable Connection) 2) In the pile of accessories there is an Inon Double hole Rubber Bush for optical fiber : Do i need to use that rather than one of the 2 holes in the front of the fantasea housing, to connect the cable? (I do not see the interest but maybe something escapes me) 3) I saw some documents that spoke of possible strobe overheating. All this is still not very clear to me. If I take one picture, wait until the strobe is charged and the red light comes on, and then I take another picture, and same again and again : in this case, I have a risk of overheating? I would have thought that the flash could go into protection automatically but I'm not 100% sure about this. 4) I made a first try yesterday, I was very disappointed by the autonomy of the camera. I'd like to know about which variables I can act to change that : - SteadyShot OFF - Flash Compensation -3,0 IL (this point might be problematic no? Cause this might maybe impact the TTL measure, or am I totally wrong?- I hope so because this might be really problematic lol) - AF not Continue - lower the brightness of the screen - no NR - any other advice? 5) I'm not sure I understood exactly where to put the Silica gel inside the housing. Manual say that's the best is to insert on the left side of the camera between the 2 rubber shock absorber mounts. I was afraid that if I put a bag of silica gel in this place I could damage the camera zoom. Also I'm a bit paranoid about fog/steam/moisture inside the housing I think. I made some pictures to share all this in case people are interested to buy similar material, so that they know what to expect. Some pictures: Thanks in advance, have a beautiful underwater day! sorry, I'm not able to successfully upload the pictures, will try again later : I do have error messages
  3. Hello, Ok I read articles about different kinds of arms. I just bought everything ; Arms, Accessories, Strobe Inon S-2000, Fantasea housing I thank you very warmly : you are very friendly, I had this project in mind since years and now I finally will be able to start!!! - Ok Barmaglot, I exactly understand you as I'm a big fan of continuous lightning and for example Studio Harcourt in Paris - Have a beautiful end of day
  4. also : if one of these days I want to film with continuous lightning all the arms in a kit like those of the Inon brand will be compatible OR I might have unexpected issues?
  5. Hi thanks you for replies! Ok, the Removable anti-glare hood for the LCD screen Is included on the fantasea FRX100 V I will buy this Fantasea housing! thx! Thanks for the comparison with the Ikelite housings, I will skip this brand for housing and Sony one too. About the Strobe, INON Z-330 seems really impressive BUt as I will stay close to the surface I certainly do not need such powerful equipment. INON S-2000 seems a good compromise Ok, thanks for this guide http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwater-photography-chapter-index-guide-underwater-photography Ah, F/4, interesting, ok thx > Model VI has a completely new lens, so no housing for a previous model will fit it. This is a really bad bad news for me, but ok anyway, as I see the mark VI, have 15 elements in 12 groups : I'm not fan at all of so much glasses (microcontrast Is like drug for me ahahaha) > just a tray with a handle to make it less buoyant and a lanyard to keep it from floating away. Ok, need to search for : - a tray with a handle - a lanyard I will email one European website reseller I found, asking for some help because I'm not sure to get all the differences between all Inon Arm kit thanks a lot for your help, I appreciate a lot lot lot lot lot lot lot ! Emilio
  6. Hello I hope you are well? thanks a lot for the help About Camera : - Ok will remain with the RX100 specially as the captor is a 1" - @Barmaglot : Ok, really good analogy about the fog : I get the image and the advise about getting closer. Easy to understand as I'm doing streetphotgraphy too. About housing : - Nauticam are not adaptable to all Mark for RX100 so I will have to skip this model - Fantasea seems have many advantages and the model FRX100 V is compatible with Sony RX100 III / IV / V (and maybe VI even, I do not know) - I will have to check If I could order too the anti glare hood on the fantasea - Also Discovered the Ikelte, seems a big brand and it is also compatible with II IV and V (updated version). What's the comparison with the Fantasea? - Just by curiosity, why nobody talks about the Sony housing? About Strobes : - Ok @ChrissRoss, I will do some searches about the INON S-2000 - thanks to your comments i think my needs are more specific than i thought, meaning lighter and more compact ! Since the density of the water is not the density of the air how are you playing with the opening of the lens in underwater photo with strobe? I guess it's not recommended to close like you would do in studio, or? In any case, saw the fast movements of the fish and the possible fps rate of the camera I thought also about continuous light. But I guess it's the same as in the studio and the power level of continuous light versus strobe in comparison is ridiculous...and there is no debate to have - I will forget about superior recycle rate than 1.6 Seconds : SEA & SEA YS-01 SEA & SEA YS-03 IKELITE DS-51 - Best recycle rates are for : IKELITE DS-161 9.6 x 17.9 xm 1343g INON S2000 6.4 x 8.3 x 10.6 cm 295 g SEA & SEA YS-D2 8.9 x 13.3 x 11.6 cm 600 g INON Z-240 9.9 x 12.2 x 10 cm 583 g So yes, the Inon S2000 seems the most interesting one for me but I saw really strange prices variations between US prices and EU prices, will have to check deeply. (I'm in EU) About Accessories : - @Barmaglot and @ChrisRoss Ok seems that any floating wrist strap are equivalents - do I need a special hermetical box and silicate gel? - one underwater case seems a good idea too - do I need Silicone? - Ok to skip the colored filters as I will not go really deep Thanks a lot for all the help
  7. Hi thanks a lot for your replies I will re-read all this the next days, understand deeply, and come back with few questions if something is not clear about software, I do have Lightroom (and other adobe software) - (latest version), and capture one for Sony (latest version too), as I'm using them both with my A7II @Barmaglot, about your point about to bee too far from something interesting, it's really a point that bothers me a LOT...because at the base I was going for a longer focal length...that's even why I had in mind to go for a Cooplix W300S before with the 120mm ....hope I didn't made a big mistake there (if yes, it is not too late, I could send back the sony when he will arrive)
  8. Hello Thanks a lot for your replies, I do appreciate a lot! Ok, was hesitating between fantasea and nauticam, I will check deeper all this as nauticam was one of my two first choices? at a shallow depth I can do without buying a filter : do we agree? does this equipment float? and if not, what should you buy to avoid losing it in the underwater depths ahaha? I think I will start without strobe, and see how it goes what accessories would be advisable to simplify all this? thanks a lot
  9. Hello, I hope you are well? it's been now a year and 11 days since I joined this forum and it's time for me to make things happen! I was in the past, for a time, a professional consultant about studio photography and camera and everything related ( continuous light ) I'm still shooting but not professionally and I am passionate about optical formulas and rendering and I appreciate a lot of lenses from Voigtlander or Zeiss, for example, the Zeiss 50 1.5 Classic, etc... For several years I wanted to start underwater photography but I always found excuses to delay: I am not informed enough, I do not have enough information, etc... Until a few days ago where I ordered on the internet a Sony RX100 IV I would love a few tips because I'm lost. My goal is to start with a single Strobe and buy a second after a time (certainly - if I find it necessary). I also think that I need several accessories and I'm lost either about choosing. my needs are as follows: - I know myself and I will go crazy if the loading time between two eclairs is too long ahaha - I would like to travel with my equipment, so it must be compact and light because I already have the habit to move with my full house in my luggage. - Ergonomics is really important to me and I need to be able to adjust everything if possible (I do not want to waste time with bad ergonomics) - I do not plan to film at first and maybe I never will - I would like a housing adaptable to the next sony RX 100 and not only to a single one model ( even so we can not predict the future ) My BIGGEST problem and the reason for my post here is that my needs are different from a lot of information that I find on forums because most people will dive to take pictures And I will not. I do not dive and I will not start, but I can spend hours in the water doing snorkeling. I have always enjoyed snorkeling but my shoulder hurts and I do not know when it will be better as I'm in this condition since 2 years and I had to stop to go really underwater. So at worst I should stay close to the surface and at best I could go down a few meters but I do not have right now this information. That's why I do not need material resistant to a great depth & I am interested in all the advice. It is not worth you lose a lot of time answer me: if you share me some references I could do the research. Thank you to this forum to exist and I wish you a good time underwater. Emilio
  10. Hello Everybody, I hope you are fine and you have many pictures of fish in the eyes=) I'm emilio, I have been doing photography for 25 years, I was technical advisor for some projects in studio with continuous light I'm totally Passionate about optical formulas ahaha also angles, fields, depth of field, the impact of some optical formula on image rendering. I'm a huge Fan of Zeiss, and I have many prime lenses. I'm thinking to buy some stuffs to do underwater pics since one year...certainly with your help I will be able to do the good choice, thanks a lot in advance
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