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markdhanlon

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Everything posted by markdhanlon

  1. Would you consider $400 for one including the battery and charger?
  2. Thanks. I've got spare sync cords so I'll give it a try.
  3. I have a newish DS-125 NiMH battery that 100% of the time works on the surface, but 90% of the time doesn't work at depth. I can't nail down the depth involved but it's more than the 4' of my pool. It has done this since I got it. The original batteries that I have still work 100% of the time on both strobes, except for this one. I don't know if it's a connection problem or what. Any suggestions?
  4. Thank you all for the great advice. We will try to incorporate as much as possible. How much would you typically pay/be willing to pay for a 6 person, double occupancy (queen beds), 3 dive/day, all meals, DM/instructor, etc. on a per person/day rate?
  5. Just picked up a 64' motoryacht in the pacific northwest (Vancouver) area and am looking to set it up for not just sailors, but also divers. It sleeps 6 and I plan on installing a cascaded air system and tank holders, etc. but I'm wondering what options really make a liveabourd standout. What do people consider must haves and what make small touches makes a liveaboard stand out? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  6. I'm getting a new Canon Rebel T2i and am strongly considering a new Eye-Fi Pro X2. The idea of not having to open my housing to download photos seems like a great idea. However, the speed, range and effect on battery life is a little disconcerting. The card is a 802.11n device, so the transfer speed should not be much different than USB 2.0 (I'm guessing about half in real world conditions). But I also wonder about the range (i.e. will it transfer through my Ikelite housing) and will this kill the battery so much that I'll need to swap out batteries almost every dive any way. Any one using one of these cards and any thoughts? Thanks for the help.
  7. I'm looking to go to SE Asia next summer. I've got about 5 weeks to play with and would like to visit a few different places, but don't want to spend a fortune. I spent time in Redang, Perhentians and Sipidan, Malaysia a couple of years ago and loved Sipidan. Redang was quite nice as well. My wife and I really enjoy macro stuff. Looking for suggestions of places to go to fill my 5 weeks.
  8. I use the 1550 which is 1/2" larger than the carryon size in one dimension but haven't ever had any problems. I opted for the dividers and have been quite happy with the choice. I have had smaller pelicans for other purposes in the past with the foam, but as my needs change, I can't reconfigure the foam. I fit in it: Ike housing 2xDS-125 spare DS battery and charger 60mm port 6" dome port 4x8" ULCS arms Fisheye focus light 3xsynch cords
  9. I just recently purchased the 10-17 and am extremely happy with it. I quite like the FE photos above water as well. In the end though, I will probably purchase a 10-22 at some point because it is not nearly as wide as the FE and will cover the gap between my 10-17 FE and 17-85.
  10. Thanks for all the replies. That's what I figured, but you often see this stuff sensationalized by the media and I wanted a clear picture. It's inline with a different statistic that I had heard that you are more likely to die from being hit by a coconut than shark attack. Thanks for the help.
  11. My wife and I will be taking a road trip down the west coast of the US from about the middle of July until the middle of August starting from Seattle going down as far south as Carmel. Normally diving in the Pacific NW, there are no concerns of white sharks, so I'm a little concerned when I hear about the potential of coming across one of these large sharks outside of a cage. For those diving in this area (mainly California), what are the chances that I will a) see a white shark? or B) not see the shark but have a different kind of encounter. Any information that I have found through Google seems pretty sensationalized, so I'm looking for actual responses from actual divers, not reports from CNN. Thanks for the help.
  12. I picked up the DryZone 100 and it's pretty sweet. It has a dry zipper as well as an internal regular zipper so you don't have to use it if you don't need it. I've used it kayaking and did a pool test (empty of course) fully submerged for almost two hours and not a drop inside. It's also very comfortable hiking in.
  13. Does anyone know of a Seattle (or area) dive shop that runs weekday night dives? I'll be there on business and was tempted to take along my dive gear and camera. However, I'm only there Monday, Mar. 31-Wednesday, Apr. 2. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  14. The vis looks pretty good for green water. I always seem to hit the Pacific NW during storm season (Christmas and New Years).
  15. I'm sorry to hear about the flood. I was considering purchasing this light as a focus light. I'm wondering what others have experienced.
  16. I went down this road as well. In the end I purchased a DS-125. However, while I was on vacation I broke it. Thankfully I was able to replace it while only missing one day of diving (I still dove, just sans camera). Then once I was back in Canada I sent the broken one in for repair. Now I have two and am quite happy with them. I didn't have much problem with one strobe. I sometimes prefered the contrast that it provided.
  17. One thing that hasn't been mentioned that I keep on my own boat when diving is emergency O2.
  18. I use the XT with 2 DS-125's. I went through the same problems as you, and after taking an UWP course found that the easiest method to use is to set the camera to manual, but use TTL for the strobes. For macro, I typically start at F18, 1/100s and ISO 200. This allows the strobes a fairly wide range to correct for. If I find that the TTL is slightly off based on the histogram, I will adjust the strobes with exposure compensation on the housing. For WA, I typically shoot at F8, 1/100s and ISO 100. However, TTL is fooled a lot more often with WA, so it takes quite a bit more fooling around. I hope this helps.
  19. I broke the bulb on mine while in Malaysia this past summer on vacation. My best option was to buy a new one in Bangkok, then get the old one fixed once I got home. But now I have two! I agree that it's probably best to have Ike fix it, that way if anything else screws up, it's not your fault. Just my opinion.
  20. I've got the Spyder2 Suite. It works great and lets me adjust what I need to match the printing company I go through.
  21. Will probably be moving to Perth in August/September once I find the job to take me there.
  22. Where were you diving? I'm going out to the Gulf Islands on the 27th, so am wondering where this happened. I'm always afraid that the octopus will pull on my port and break a seal.
  23. The problem with your combination (and mine) is that the camera doesn't recognize the flash and therefore tries to set the camera up for available light photography, which results in either extremely low DOF or long exposures. What I have done is set up my camera to manual. For the 60mm macro and 1 DS-125, I used to shoot at 1/80 - 1/125s and F18-F22. Then I would let the strobe's TTL manage how much light to throw. Ikelite's TTL is pretty spot on, but always check the histogram to confirm.
  24. That neck ball adapter looks like it will work as it separates the movement of the focus light from the strobes. Thanks.
  25. Has anyone added a focus light mount to their Ikelite housings? I'm thinking about gluing a ULCS ball such as a BA-AQW (www.ulcs.com) to the top of the housing then attaching one of the focus light holders. Any suggestions for glue choice as I don't want to eat through or spiderweb the acrylic. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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