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blueline

Member
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    112
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About blueline

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://vimeo.com/user28597575

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Central FL
  • Interests
    Scuba/Underwater video/photography

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony RX100V, Canon 50D, Lumix Gh5S
  • Camera Housing
    Aquapazza RX100V w/ various diopters/external lenses, Aquatica AGh5, Sea & Sea MDX 50D, Sigma/Canon/Tokina lenses
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon D-2000W strobes
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arm set, Big Blue lights

Recent Profile Visitors

3239 profile views
  1. Olympus 60mm.. pretty sharp (reminds me of the ef-s 60mm I had on my Canon rig). Hope to dive again soon to further test.
  2. I got a 2nd camera and I'd say there's a subtle noise but not like the 1st camera. I still think the sensor is not fixed in place, like on the GH5 but no biggie (does not bother me too much). I did test it underwater last weekend(mostly macro); was a shore dive, so not a very productive day. https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/668645196 Nice video above Thani!!
  3. I agree. If IBIS is not in the camera, it should not make any rattling/clanking noise, unless they left any hardware behind in some units(magnets or something else). I'll take my chances with a 2nd unit and assess my options. If the 2nd camera has the same issue, I might send it to Panasonic for repair. Hope I get one of the good batch. None of these cameras are in stores anymore (i.e. BestBuy in my area). They all ship from a warehouse hr and a half away, which I asked to go and pick it up(hence test it to see if it makes the noise) but was told that is not allowed. None of the employees are allowed to open the camera boxes either, and check, so they won't break the seals; so it's basically hit or miss. I was told if the 2nd unit has the same issue, you have 14 days to return it and blah blah blah.. I also agree about the Aquatica housing..actually it looks much better up close than in pictures, feels solid and well made. Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  4. Sounds like it's coming from behind the sensor or the sensor itself, camera body. My guess is it's the IBIS mechanism left behind but don't understand the rational. Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
  5. Hello,I just got this camera, (Panasonic/Lumix Gh5S), obviously a little late but still a very releavant/capable camera and noticed a small rattle/noise when shaken or moved. It concerns me because I've seen some posts on various websites, some people saying it's normal, while others saying IBIS causes it (but the GH5S does not have IBIS (??)), so wanted to make sure I did not get a defective camera or won't cause any issues in the future. Btw, I called Panasonic Customer service and was told 10% of these cameras have been rolled out of the factory with what seems to be a defect and make that rattling sound when shaken. I was advised to take it back to the retailer I bought it from and exchange it(I did and expecting the replacement soon, however, at this point, from what I've read online, I have no faith I will get another one without making that noise). It seems no one knows why the GH5S, though it has no IBIS, still makes the rattling sound like the regular GH5. I've called anywhere from Photo retailers online to reputable underwater photo gear stores and they all say they've heard some cameras do that but it's normal(?) which I don't understand. The sensor should be fixed in place; the sound seems to be coming from that area, unless it's the IBIS mechanism in the back, having been left in the camera, though it is non-functioning on the GH5S. Any ideas to understand this better would greatly be appreciated. Everyone likes a solid product and this camera, though amazing in many aspects, it is disappointing me in a way(btw, too late to return the housing that i bought for it (Aquatica Agh5) and go with a different setup). Thank you!
  6. Yes I have and am looking into Nauticam housings too. I Just thought the Aquatica GH4's looked more rugged and are significantly discounted(at least lately).
  7. Expensive yes like all other alum housings but I see these discounted lately, so I am puzzled as to why and reluctant to commit to buying one(will need to invest on camera, ports, lenses etc..since I'll be moving from a different brand/system). Thanks for the info though. Also one not so good review at this online retailer. That's why I asked.. http://www.housingcamera.com/id3099-aquatica-housing-4-panasonic-gh4.html "Solid but not perfect. Ok... During the first setup of the camera inside of the housing I didn't notice that one of the metallic pins of the ON/OFF selector from the inside of the housing gets against the ON/OFF plastic selector of the camera... long story short... when I open the housing to retrieve the camera I notice I couldn't turn of the camera, the switch leveler of the housing was "like" doing anything... not moving anything at all. So I open the housing and notice that the ON/OFF switch of my camera its broken. The worst of it is that is an error from the factory. "
  8. Hi, I am looking to replace my old Sea & Sea MDX 50D DSLR setup (interesting in buying a used GH4 camera and an Aquatica or Subal housing). Do any of you have any experience with these housings? The Aquatica housings are significantly discounted at some online stores. In looking at various pictures on line, I don't really like the coarse look of the Aquatica housings. Even the buttons and port openings are coated with that paint. Does that seal without issues or hold over time? My Sea & Sea housing has taken a beating from shore diving but still looks pretty good with few scratches(no floods either). I'm also concerned about the latching system being plastic(?). I also came across to this video on YouTube. The Subal housings look better INMO(more polished/refined), but again I've never seen one up close so I can't tell. Any suggestions/ideas would greatly be appreciated. Thanks, Blueline
  9. I have a 1.4x Canon teleconverter (haven't used it in a long time) and in manual mode it's useless(only works with AutoFocus. I mostly shoot in manual mode(meaning with a manual focus ring). Was just asking if by inverting the 60mm and attach the teleconverter on the outside, whether it will work. Thanks anyway.
  10. Hmm, I completely forgot about it. I have a Marumi +10 diopter for my GoPro but I think it has a 55mm thread. Will need to look into buying one for the canon 60mm. Thanks!
  11. Hello, I've been shooting video with an older DSLR for a while so have hit a wall as far as getting more magnification from a Canon 60mm. For stills I have used a 1.4X teleconverter and have been thinking to get a reverse macro ring(pretty much flip the 60mm and attach the 1.4X coupler at the end(?)), however, I'm not sure if this will work (plus in manual mode I will need a different focus ring). So before I start forking $ out again, I wanted to ask if anyone has done that or has any ideas? I know I can buy a diopter (Subsee or similar) but have read a +10 would be overkill and a +5 would be more than enough? Basically I need more magnification than what is shown in this video(mostly interested in showing more detail on slow moving subjects(i.e. sea slugs, crustaceans etc..) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iotatWtYFm0 Any info will greatly be appreciated. Thank you.
  12. So, I purchased a used Canon 50D body on eBay and installed Magic Lantern to shoot some video(decided to give this a chance instead of selling my setup). I was able to shoot video on my last 3 dives. However one issue, there's no dedicated button for the LiveView/LCD screen on the MDX-40/50D Sea & Sea housing and have no way to turn it on/off while underwater to preserve the battery. I actually have to turn on LV before I place the camera in the housing and begin my dive(camera goes into sleep mode after 20 secs, Magic Lantern has a selection for that). The problem is if I forget to press the shutter button once in a while for the camera to wake up, it powers off after 30 mins. It happened to me once, was too busy fighting waves on a recent shore dive. In addition, is there a way to program a custom key, C1, C2 or function to turn LV on when I power up the camera? I've tried to program C1,C2 per the manual but LV constantly switches off before I save the sequence. I really don't want to add a button to the housing, it might compromise its integrity (actually I was told not even Sea & Sea in the US will do that). Any suggestions/ideas will greatly be appreciated. Here's a short video with the results.. Thank you.
  13. I did talk to ReefPhoto but they did not recommend modifying the housing. My only hope(if this option going to work) is to buy the camera and see if the Liveview can be turned on through a custom setting(i.e. C1, C2). If not, then I'm looking at replacing the housing or going with a mirrorless system(have not decided). Thanks.
  14. So it's been a while since I posted here. I have recently come across Magic Lantern which supposedly enables video on Canon 50D's. I am interested in that DSLR due to having an MDX-40/50D housing, but cannot figure out how to turn on Liveview (there's no dedicated button on the housing for that). Everything else(in theory) should work fine, i.e. with ML the trash button becomes the "new ML menu button" and the Set button(in the round dial) becomes the on/off recording switch. Has anyone played with this option? I see some really nice RAW videos online and am thinking to try it out(only issue is how to turn on LV, unless I can program a custom function and assign a different button to turn on LV?). Any info/ideas would greatly be appreciated. Also, has anyone modified their S&S housings by adding switches/buttons to the acrylic display? Thanks, Blueline.
  15. Thanks Steve! That's what I was thinking, next time I'll be down there for a shore dive, I'll take it to them. I completely forgot about the shutter, plus haven't used it in over a year.
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