Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About aytur

  • Rank
    Hermit Crab

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ankara, Turkey

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D2X
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Seacam 250
  • Accessories
    Ultralight arms
  1. Intermittent problems are the most annoying. They happen when you are not looking. I am shooting with a D2x in a Seacam housing with two SeaFlash 250 strobes connected to the housing via Seacam's own six wire S6 sync chords. Two-flash i-TTL is working beutifully with good exposures most of the time. However, I relized that some of my shots disappear and do not get written on the CF card. This problem occurs only with the SeaFlash 250 strobes. When I connect a SB-800 (on a different housing with N5 bulkhead connectors) everthing is fine. With the SeaFlash 250's turned off, it is again no problem. But if one or both SeaFlash 250'a are turned on, I loose a shot at random. Here is what happens: I focus and release the shutter, the strobes fire and the camera takes the photo notmally. The I check the LCD monitor, and I see the PREVIOUS photo. The one I just took is missing completely. This problem occurs intermittently, but can happen one in every 4 or 5 shots. And I am sure the strobes are ready to fire each time. Very annoying. Help from D2x and i-TTL experts would be greatly appreciated. -orhan
  2. Does anyone have information about liveaboard diving out of Biak? What is the best time to go? Who are the operators? What is the diving like? Cheers, -orhan
  3. Ali Baba is the man to dive with in the Red Sea. He is an amazing dive guide. Read about him here. I believe he currently works on the Royal Evolution. The Red Sea is a different place with the magic of Ali Baba. -orhan
  4. I have two Seacam 250 strobes. These are connected to my Seacam D2X housing via Seacams special 6-wire sync chords. My housing had to be fitted with special bulkhead connectors that accept these 6-wire sync chords. The converter electronics was also installed at the same time. This configuration allows true i-TTL operation with two strobes. For two strobe i-TTL operation, you set both strobes to "TTL". When you press the shutter, there is a preflash for both strobes. The main flash follows the preflash. The two strobes put out equal amounts of light. If you need to have unequal lighting, you need the change the relative strobe-to-subject distance. Technically speaking, in this mode of operation the two strobes act as one. I suspect the sixth wire lets the two strobes talk to each other. Actually, one strobe is the "master" strobe, and communicates with the camera via the i-TTL converter circuitry. The second strobe is controlled by the master strobe, and essentially mimics everything that the master strobe does, including preflash output. If you want to take a photograph with a single strobe, you have to turn off the second strobe, not the master strobe. (I am deliberately not using the word "slave" here to avoid confusion.) Otherwise, the shutter is disabled. The exposures in this configuration (two strobe i-TTL) are usually right on. I am very pleased with the results most of the time. There is one major problem though: On-camera exposure compensation does not work! According to Seacam, these strobes are supposed to be fully i-TTL compatible and pretty much supposed to act like a single SB-800, electronically speaking. "Slow" and "rear curtain sync" etc all work beautifully. But not exposure compensation. This is truly baffling. When I shoot a relatively small subject with an open water background, the picture is understandably overexposed. Dialing in negative exposure compensation on the camera has absolutely no effect! I suspect this is a firmware bug, but have not been able to get an answer from Seacam. The Seacam 250 is an excellent strobe. I am going to point at a few weaknesses though: The batteries cannot be replaced. This means you cannot recharge spare batteries while you are diving. You have to charge the strobes directly. The batteries usually last 2 or 3 dives. Still, if you are doing 4 dives a day, you may have to do a little bit of advance planning as to when you will recharge your strobes. The recycle times are long. My Ikelite SS-200 and Sea&Sea YS-120 with NiMH batteries recycle under 2 seconds. Seacam 250's cannot keep up with fast action. They are heavy and bulky. Very heavy and bulky in fact. The six-wire connector is incompatible with the rest of the world. I cannot use any other strobe as backup. If your strobes fail in the middle of a long live-aboard trip, you are stuck. OK, on the positive side, the wide angle coverage is amazing. There are protective rings around the reflector that limit the angle of coverage. These are very useful since the glass part sticks out quite a bit and if you are careless like me you can very easily crack your strobe! The protective rings slide out easily and the true potential of the strobes are realized! But be careful. There are two different bulbs with different color temperatures. I find this mildly useful since the difference can easily be corrected with white balance. Cheers, - orhan aytur
  • Create New...