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About frede

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  1. Don't know if this would help, have U tried setting camera flash to slave mode (only available if camera switched to "A" or "M" mode. I have same problem cause I am using an old analog SUNPAK marine flash triggered by only slave sensor window at side of flash. May be due to pre-flash problem. Hope it could be of any help. Fred Kwok Olym C-5050, sunpak marine 32.
  2. Reefwreck, You're absolutely right. Have someone search the whole of Singapore not available not even at cathay. Only compatible ones or "OEM" ones, whatever that means. I then called song brothers, where I bought my pt-010 last year & was told stock of pt015 won't be there for another month & would cost S$450. Good news is I finally found the case in Honk Kong thank to my HK buddy Derek for only HK$1,380. YAHOO!!!. Rechargable nimh batteries real cheap there too. Thanks.
  3. Thanks to all for your help. I might try to grab it in Singapore over the weekend. Any way here's the pics I mention earlier on the barrelling effect. Pls comment!!!. Thanks again. Alfred.
  4. Oops! sorry, I will try to attached pics later. File too big.
  5. Dear All, Check out this photo I took with my new 5050 during new year day. Look at the barreling effects on the two side buildings, how irritating!. Alfred
  6. Keith, My unit of 5050 does not come with remote and supplied only with non rechargable lithium batteries, yuks!. Last year when I have my 4040 it came with the remote but batteries still non rechargable lithium. 3 months back the 4000 came with no remote function, hence no remote & ALKALINE batteries only! Anyway I live in Malaysia, the cameras costed were 4040 - RM3200 (US$842), 4040 - RM1750 (US460) & bought my 5050 at RM2800 (US$740) last week. I got the PT-010 in Singapore for S$380 (US$190) but I can't find the PT-015 in stock in singapore & they told me the stock only arrive in two months!. Anyone has their hands on the pt-015 yet?. If so where & how much? Thanks.
  7. Dear All, Thanks a mil. My 5050 preflash could indeed by disable but the camera must be set to M or A mode. It even have a variable intensity slave flash from 1 to 8!. Great!. I could get my strobe to fire in sync now but have yet to test it u/water as my pt-015 casing has not arrived yet. I'm quite sure the 4040 & 4000 didn't have this slave mode. Anyway I tried long exposure during the new year fireworks display and were quite please with the outcome. However there some noticable barreling effect in wide mode where the buildings seems to curve a little. It a great dissapointment too that our version of 5050 were supplied with non rechargeble battery and NO REMOTE CONTROL!. Fortunately I still have the old remote from my dead 4040. Hopefully the AF illuminator would be of any use during night dives. That would be another bonus switching to 5050. Thanks again for all your help especially to Mike & David. Alfred Kwok
  8. Dear All, Hi!. I have just traded in my c-4000 for a c-5050 today!. I have dived with the C-4040 then the c-4000 in the PT-010 case. The reason I used the c-4000 was, I DROWNED my fav 4040 due to sheer carelessness of getting the corner of the silica pack to be caught in the o ring during one of the dives. Sigh!. Anyway I really miss the top LCD indicator on the top side of the 4040 as the 4000 does not have any such indicator. All status were displayed on the main screen for about 3 secs. when some buttons were depressed. Anyway to be fair, the c-4000 was a damn good camera which produced some really great pics despite being the "el cheapo" brother to the c-4040. I was elated when a friend of mine (used to be a diver too) who runs a photo equipment & processing retail outlet, gave me a "long forgotten" SUNPAK MARINE 32 u/w strobe recently. Eventhough I very damn happy that the strobe triggered by detecting the internal flash of the camera, as the cable that came with the strobe was proprietary and the fact that PT-010 didn't provide any outlets for outboard strobes. However, joy soon turn to confusion as the pics turn out to be severely underexposed & dark. After some frantic searching & digging on the web, I have come to the following conclusion. Most digital cameras uses a"pre" flash to guage the settings before the actual flash and shutter were actually triggered to produce a picture. Both these flash actually very close to each other for most of us to notice and that also explain the shutter lag as compared to film cameras. The pre flash actually triggered the strobe to fire way too early before the actual flash and in the process screwing up the settings for the camera light metering. That results in a severely under exposed pics despite both flash & strobe seemingly having fired!. I've took it back to the shop and tried with different settings & different digital camera from canon, casio & nikon and all gave the same results. If u look carefully, most digital cams actually flashes not once but twice like we thought it to be. Anyway, as a newbie, sorry for being "long winded" or too lengthy like we asian are use to saying, but do anyone has any exprience with problems of this nature. If so, how could this be overcomed? I would also like to recommend a excellent website dedicated to u/w photography for all to share at : http://www.marscuba.com/ Alfred Kwok
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