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About marriard

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

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  • Location
    Somewhere with Diving, USA

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Fuji S2Pro, Nikon D2X
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica, Subal
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite 200's/Inon 220's/Inon Ring Flash
  1. I have a NEW IN BOX, never used Aquatica 8" Dome #18405 w/ Neoprene Cover #18500 This has been sitting in my house for a few years and until today it had never been out of the box. I wasn't even aware there was a Neoprene cover on it until I opened it to take the photos. From distant memory I believe I had bought this as a replacement but it was back ordered and ended up changing housings before I received it. Link to product page: http://www.aquatica.ca/en/products_ports_18405.html New this would set you back $550 - I'll take $350 and will ship it free within the USA (actual cost for overseas).
  2. Just a random grab bag of images as I slowly catch up on this years images.... Ribbon Eel - Rhinomuraena quaesita Nusa Penida, Bali, Indonesia Large Criniod on a Coral Reef Wall Sipidan Island, Malaysia Marbled Snake Eel - Callechelys marmorata Mabul Island, Malaysia Pygmy Seahorse - Hippocampus denise USS Liberty, Tulamban Bay, Bali, Indonesia Flamboyant Cuttlefish - Metasepia pfefferi Kapalai, Malaysia Chromodorididae Nudibranch - Chromodoris kunei Tulamben Slopes, Tulamban Bay, Indonesia I really like all of these, but the H. Denise sea horse is awesome - one of my favourites, and the Snake Eel is really cool. My server is uploading images for posting in a somewhat random order at the moment, so the best images of these two specimens are still to come. Enjoy, M
  3. For the B&W images - I use a number of different methods. The one that tends to work best and is the first method I try is (Photoshop instructions below): 1. Change to LAB color space 2. Choose the a channel only 3. Convert to GreyScale (discard color information) 4. Duplicate the background layer 5. Change new layer to Multiply 6. Change Opacity of layer until I like it 7. Flatten image 8. Increase contrast I also use Craigs Actions plug ins B&W convertor, especially if I want to stay in the RGB color space and add color back into the image at a later date. Enjoy, M
  4. Some black and white images of a pod of Long Beaked Common Dolphins (Delphinus capensis off the coast of South Africa waiting for the Sardine Run to arrive... And some color jumpers :-) Enjoy, M
  5. I was there as well.... Just so far behind in getting images processed that I only just got a chance to go through the first couple of days so far.... This was the first Humpback breach that was in photo range I'll get to the underwater images sometime... ah... it will either happen this week or maybe August. Probably August Enjoy, M
  6. Thorny Seahorse Hippocampus hystrix Anilao, The Philippines Tigertail Seahorse Hippocampus comes Phuket, Thailand White's Seahorse Hippocampus whitei Sydney, Australia Pygmy Seahorse Hippocampus bargibanti Gato Island, The Philippines Longsnout Seahorse Hippocampus reidi West Palm Beach, Florida Common Seahorse Hippocampus taeniopterus Malapascua Island, The Philippines Pot-bellied Seahorse Hippocampus abdominalis Sydney Aquarium Enjoy, M
  7. Totally agree - outside Scuba Mags and Science Textbooks macro doesn't sell very well. And most Scuba Mags prefer wide angle as well. M
  8. If you are looking cheap but quality consider the Nikon 20mm ($384 @ BH or the Nikon 16mm fisheye ($679 US or $600 imported @ BH). Or of course just break down and buy the 12-24mm Nikon DX lens which I am guessing you probably want. Lenses are unfortunately the place you shouldn't cost restrcit yourself because unlike the camera, they can last you for years. M
  9. The traditional Giant Frogfish perched in a Barrel Sponge image (with Medusa Sea Cucumbers all over it) on a coral reef wall. Image taken on the reef surrounding Pescador Island off of Moalboal, The Philippines. Nikon D2X, 10.5mm DX Fisheye, Subal Housing, dual Inon 220 Strobes, ASA 200 Enjoy, M
  10. You will end up wanting both the 12-24mm DX Nikon lens and the 10.5 Fisheye. Which one you buy first will depend on how much topside photography you do. If you do a lot of topside, then I recommend you buy the 12-24mm lens first. It is hugely versatile and will be really a fantastic lens both topside and underwater. Then buy the 10.5 fisheye second and you will find you use the 10.5 underwater almost all the time and the 12-24mm topside almost all the time. If you are just looking for an underwater lens, buy the 10.5mm fisheye and then the 12-24mm later on. Hope this helps somewhat, M
  11. Haven't had a chance to hook up the SS200's on to the D2x/Subal Housings. Lately I have been travelling with the Inon's mainly because are so much easier to pack and the airlines in SE Asia are real ^(*^(*& about weight limits. Come to think about it, I don't think I have used my SS200's for 12 months. Maybe it is time to sell them. Sorry, Paul
  12. That is how I use it - single arm suspended in front of the port. Absolutely I will bring it with me in Nov. Paul
  13. I have tried it. With correct Apperture and shutter speed control, it is pretty easy to control the light output. I haven't had any issues with it, although I tend to dial in some exposure adjustments if I see any issues. M
  14. Interesting point on the above images of the Subal/Sealux viewfinder... Both are NOT shown as you use them underwater. They have a screw on hood/cover which allows you to block ambient light and actually see the viewfinder correctly. If you do not add this screw on, it is almost impossible to use the viewfinder underwater as I found out the first dive I tried to use it on.... I think I paid $785 or $800 USD for the viewfinder on the Subal. I'll look it up later. M
  15. I have the Subal G180 Viewfinder on my D2X hosuing (or whatever it is called). It is hard for me to make a judgement as the D2X has a much bigger viewfinder than my Fuji S2 so I am unsure whether it is the camera viewfinder that is making it much better or the viewfinder itself - I suspect it is both. You do have to line up your eye properly to use the viewfinder, but once you have a dive or two with it, that isn't an issue anymore (very natural) and then you have full view of the viewfinder and just as importantly some of the info in the viewfinder as well. Must say that I will always go for this option in the future but that is basically because I want to make sure I have every advantage possible in getting a shot. it is one of those options that wont make me a better photographer, but it certainly wont make a worse one. As for hosuings without them - I have had plenty before and the lack of a viewfinder doesn't make them any less attractive - especially with the premium charge these viewfinders run. I mean you can buy a whole housing for the cost of a SeaCam viewfinder. M
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