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Bevanj

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Bevanj last won the day on December 20 2018

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About Bevanj

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  1. Tef-gel is awesome for preventing stainless threads from corroding in aluminium.
  2. Hi Kraken, I could do... let me give it some thought. It took me quite a while to design and tune the circuit for optimum performance. Also, all of the components are only available in tiny packages like SOT-23 which there is pretty much no way to use without hot air soldering and custom designed PCBs. In short, it is some schmitt inverters, logic gates, and an RC circuit to control the time length the LEDs turn on for when triggered. I've got the Canon E-TTL protocol completely worked out now, and can get a Attiny chip to read the communication (MOSI/CLK) from a 5dmk3 to a 580EX2 speedlight and give the correct output responses (MISO) - proving my modeling of the protocol is correct. It is incredibly similar to the SPI protocol, but I have had to do some trick work to get it to function correctly with the Attiny chip. I've also tested this protocol model with other Canon cameras my family own such as a 7Dmk1, 20d and G12 - it successfully works for all of them. Now I just need to design a circuit board to fit in my housing... Bevan
  3. Dave, first pulse is camera dependent. I did some testing with a 20d, 7d and 5d3 and my 580ex2. All of the combinations, along with the 20d and 7d ibternal flash produce different pre-flash times. As for the main pulse, that will be distance dependent also.
  4. Cheers Bill, It's interesting to hear the Z240 numbers are similar. I'd be curious to know just how similar. Bevan
  5. Ok, Z330 0.1T numbers - these I am sure are correct. Wolfgang, light output is not linear relative to time. Have a look at the PDF, you'll see what I mean. Some interesting reading... https://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/06/rise-and-fall-of-machines-understanding.html -6.0 = 37us = ~1/27000 -5.5 = 47us = ~1/21000 -5.0 = 57us = ~1/17500 -4.5 = 67us = ~1/15000 -4.0 = 84us = ~1/11800 -3.5 = 105us = ~1/9500 -3.0 = 137us = ~1/7250 -2.5 = 179us = ~1/5600 -2.0 = 230us = ~1/4300 -1.5 = 312us = ~1/3200 -1.0 = 421us = ~1/2400 -0.5 = 577us = ~1/1750 Full = 2.06ms = ~1/480 Some interesting stuff to be read from this - especially for those shooting mirrorless or point&shoot... If you are cranking up your shutter speed to 1/500 and above, at full power, you are starting to cut into the flash output and loose light in that way. For the rest of us shooting through an actual shutter maxing out at 1/200 sync speed, it's not so much of a concern. Z330 T.1 output.pdf
  6. Oook. That definitely works. At a distance with a sheet of paper to dissipate some more power, I can measure the peak, and thereby generate some 0.1T numbers. Here's my 580EX2 on full power. Full power off the datasheet for this flash is 1/250sec i.e. 4ms. Looks like I'm right on the money.
  7. Yep. Pretty sure they're correct. For example, here's a scope plot for @ -6.0. The photodiode saturates, so I can't take 0.1T measurements where the duration is specified as on the rise at 10% of maximum brightness right through to falling at 10% of maximum brightness. I guess I could put the photodiode a larger distance away from the flash... Bevan
  8. I got bored and have just been doing some testing on my Z330s with an oscilloscope and some photodiodes. If anyone is interested, and as curious as me... here's a rough table of the flash durations of the Z330! They're not T.1 measurements, but are pretty close. FULL = 3300us = 0.0033sec -0.5 = 680us = 0.000680sec -1.0 = 534us = 0.000534sec -1.5 = 430us = 0.000430sec -2.0 = 348us = 0.000348sec -2.5 = 300us = 0.000300sec -3.0 = 257us = 0.000257sec -3.5 = 221us = 0.000221sec -4.0 = 186us = 0.000186sec -4.5 = 165us = 0.000165sec -5.0 = 130us = 0.000130sec -5.5 = 110us = 0.000110sec -6.0 = 97us = 0.000097sec For an interesting comparison of output power.... with the standard -0.3 soft diffuser in place, the Z330 somewhere between -2 and -1.5 (348us-430us) settings puts out the same amount of light as a 580EXII on full power (5600us!) with the wide angle 14mm diffuser flipped down. Impressive! The colour temperature is very different too - but that is to be expected. Bevan
  9. I should point out that if you are wanting to use this LED trigger (or any LED trigger for that matter), you NEED high quality multi strand fiber cables. Single strand wont allow enough light transmission to trigger strobes. With a bright flash from a cameras intetnal flash tube, you can get away with higher losses in the fibre from single strand cables and still have enough light left at the far end to trigger a strobe. With a relayively weaker pulse from an LED, the cables need to be as efficient at passing light from one end to the other as possible. Personally, I'm using the howshot brand multicore ones. Bevan
  10. I believe it should work with Sony. Next time I catch up with a friend who has an A7RII, I'll see if he minds if I try it on his camera. Oh, and I tried the V5.6 board shown above with the YSD2 - they fire just fine! Bevan
  11. g3cko, yes. 1st curtain only. Rear curtain is as you say - right at the end of the exposure. Canon have locked things down - you can only do second curtain if the camera detects a genuine Canon speedlight on the camera. I'm in the middle of reverse engineering the Canon ETTL2 protocol. I'd say I'm 95% of the way there. Bevan
  12. Well, I changed the design. Now, no matter how long you've got the shutter open for, the LEDs will pulse ~2 milliseconds regardless, instead of staying on for the entire shutter duration. It also has incredibly low current draw when in storage still. The result is that the batteries should last over a hundred years in storage, or over a million shots. I suspect the batteries will corrode before they go flat. I can still make them for $45USD. Right now I've got 3 assembled and sitting in front of me. Cheers, Bevan I've also got another design in the works which should fit housings with a smaller prism area.
  13. Retreat if necessary? Is that if the mold fights back or multiplies with the application of vinegar and water?
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