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Bevanj

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Everything posted by Bevanj

  1. Kraken, So long as it buzzes out as follows from the Nikon hotshoe connector to the pins on the round micro-din connector, it should be fine. I can't see the pinouts being any different, as they connect to the same bulkheads. The ground is the side contact on the main hotshoe metal bit, the bit CTR is the pin that contacts the center pin in the hotshoe. I can probably make these for anyone who wants one in the realm of $45USD shipped worldwide, but will need to get some more PCBs cut first. Bevan
  2. Then again, this would probably work with Nikon too, if there is someone out there that can ring out their Nauticam supplied Nikon hot shoe cable for me with a multimeter.
  3. Hi All, I know that I'm relatively new here, but I thought I'd check if anyone is interested in a super simple LED trigger for their CANON Nauticam housing? I set out to design a board for a simple optical trigger to fit to my NA-5DSR housing powered by two CR1632 batteries. If there is interest, I could knock up a few more. They may make a good backup for those of you shooting with more expensive optical triggers. Since it's very simple, it only does 1st curtain sync, and manual strobe adjustment. It has no trouble triggering my new Z-330s (Thanks Peter Mooney!). I'll try and see if I can test it with a friends YS-D2s sometime in the next week or two. Hopefully it should be fine - I'm using 15 degree beam angle CREE LEDs, and they're incredibly bright. With the board installed, there are two 10mm tall spacers between it and the housing with longer M3 screws for mounting. I've got some proper stainless ones on the way. I'm not a business, I'm not commercial. I'll simply be making these on my desk in the spare room if there is interest. Hopefully this doesn't violate the Ts&Cs of the classifieds forum. Bevan
  4. I'm pretty sure the UWtechnics Canon converter will do rear curtain sync. It also runs off button cells and uses LEDs rather than a flash tube like the Nauticam TTL trigger - the result is far better battery life. One is on my to-buy list. http://wetpixel.com/articles/uw-technics-ships-ttl-converter-for-canon https://uwtechnics.com/index.php/online-store/ttl-converters/for-canon/ttl-converter-for-canon-for-nauticam-housings-detail Manual: https://ru.calameo.com/read/005560836973218c29b21 Bevan
  5. Car wheel weights on the dome work fantastic. I can literally throw my camera out in front of me - it's perfectly neutral, and doesn't rotate dome up. I've also got a 3d printed plate that fits on the bottom of my housing on the mount screw. On this plate, I've got more wheel weights. Plate on, perfectly weighted for salt water. Plate off, perfect for fresh. One thing I can recommend though - BEFORE you put the weights on the dome shade, put lines of 2" wide clear packaging tape on the shade, and apply the wheel weights over the top of it. That way, if you want to pull the weights off in the future, you can then take the weights off, and pull the packaging tape off, along with any remnants of foam tape rather than spending hours trying to get all the bits of foam off. As Larry C pointed out - the foam adhesive tape on the back of them is designed to stick to wheels no matter what. Oh, and go for the lead wheel weights rather than the powder coated steel ones. They rust. Bevan
  6. Hi All, If anyone has got some deceased Ike DS125/DS160/DS161 packs lying around they want to get rid of, I'd be keen to get my hands on them. Lithium or NIMH. I'm in New Zealand. Thanks, Bevan
  7. Yep... to get continuous autofocus on any Canon for video, you need a body with dual pixel autofocus - like the 70d, 7dII, 5dIV etc. The 7d sadly does not fall into this category. Get some grunty lights, stop it down a touch to increase your depth of field, and bump the iso to compensate, and it will make keeping things in focus easier than if you shoot with your aperture wide open. That said, it's far easier to keep things in focus with a wide angle compared with a macro, as sunnyboy010101 is getting at. Bevan
  8. Hi, I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with this lens yet, be it on EF or Sony-E mount? At less than half the price of the Canon 14mm, it looks like a real contender. Bevan
  9. I loooove my Nauticam NA-5DSR housing (I have a MK3 in it). Bevan
  10. Cheers guys. Interesting that the green point Alex found is -0.3bar. My question is more how much further to go. Too far, and your housing will be half full of water before the vacuum alarm will trigger. Not enough, and from my experience you get false triggers. Bevan
  11. For what it's worth, I've got two of these el-cheepo lights, and they are seriously bright with little hot spotting. My only complaint is that the outmost 1-2deg of light has a yellow tint to it. Otherwise, they're great. I've had them to 70m, and they haven't flooded yet. I can get the light meter at work and work out how many kelvin they are. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Photography-Video-20000LM-10xXM-L2-4xRed-4xBlue-LED-SCUBA-Diving-Flashlight-Lamp/222352473644?hash=item33c53d7e2c:g:O-EAAOSwdGFYm8t1 Shot with FF Canon, and a Sigma15mm. Corner to corner is 180deg. I think if I get the lights just right with this, and a descent working distance it should just be able to avoid black corners and hopefully keep the yellowness out of it. When you say you want something for wide angle, how many degrees FOV are you talking about? Bevan
  12. Thanks Ryan, The one time I've seen it happen, I definitely didn't have a leak. Housing had sat for hours with a green light before getting in the water, and changed to yellow as soon as it chilled off on entry. Put it port down above my head on descent with no sign of water. The inside was bone dry after opening after over an hour in the water. Bevan
  13. Hey guys and gals, For those of you with Nauticam vacuum valves and DSLR housings, how much vacuum have you been putting in your housings? Obviously the more vacuum present in the housing after the light turns green, the more water which will enter the housing before it starts flashing yellow in a worst case scenario. Yet, with not enough vacuum, it seems to make it more prone to falsely giving a yellow flashing light indicating a leak even though it is supposedly temperature compensated. Go figure... I've been using the standard Nauticam pump to get my housing past the yellow flashing light, into the green. Then, I bleed air into the housing using the valve at a very very slow rate until it just starts flashing again. Then, I chuck the pump back on, and give it one pump to get it back into the green again. Seems to do the trick for me. Bleeding air in after this setup seems to indicate very little leaking required before it starts flashing yellow, but I have yet to have it false trigger after this. How are other people doing things? Bevan
  14. Let me know if you're interested in selling the 70mm extension ring separately. If so, how much including shipping to New Zealand? Thanks!
  15. Hi all, I'm relatively new to underwater SLR game, and have a nauticam housing for my 5dmk3. I've just pulled out a M16 blank in order to fit a vacuum valve. So - I've now got a single M16 port blank sitting here. The housing also came with two capped nikonos bulkheads fitted which I don't plan to use. Given I'm not planning on using nikonos style sync cables, will I lessen my chances of leaks by ordering another m16 blank and fitting them where the nikonos bulkheads were? Cheers, and Merry Xmas everyone! Bevan
  16. Hi All, I'm Bevan from NZ. I've been shooting with a g12, but bit the bullet and got a nauticam housing for my 5d3. Great information on this forum!
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