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Posts posted by moliu

  1. I've got a pair of Z240 which I don't think are getting enough use. Other than trying to get into the water more, I've been thinking whether these two flash would work on land. That got me thinking is it possible to get the Z240 hooked up with a PC sync cord on land?


    Does anyone have any experience? Is there an adapter that I need which will allow me to connect the Z240 to a PC sync cord?

  2. Is there any news about the strobe failures? I'm very interested in this thread because I'm currently a owner of a D200 with 2x Z240. I'm currently using the Sea and Sea housing and I'm looking for a TTL converter. I've been looking around at the heinrich external converter and the sea and sea converter. I'm still decided if it's worth getting one and which one to get.


    When the converter did work, did it work well with the Z240?

  3. I had tested the D2X previously with the original converter and the D2X would do a full dump with no preflsahes, no TTL. I just tested D2X with the converter II and had the same results. Strobe used was a YS-90DX.


    In testing the Inon strobes with the Sea and Sea converter and D200, I was getting preflashes and

    the compensation dial was stepping the exposure up and down accordingly, but the exposure was overexposed when the converter was set to zero. This test was conducted in our photo booth where we do our product shots for the website. (The boss won't let me go out and dive all day! :) )The Z240 in identical controlled conditions as the YS-90 had a brighter exposure than the YS-90. I know others have posted on this site that they are getting good results with the Z240 and the Sea and Sea TTL converter, but I want to share my results when comparing 2 different strobes in identical shooting conditions.


    I've been shooting with a D200 with YS-90 strobes and the converter in both Sea and Sea and Subal housings with the 105VR for macro and the TTL has been spot on. However, I still prefer manual for wide angle.


    Hope this helps sort out the TTL confusion. ;)




    I already have two Z240. I'm wondering if I should be getting the converter II. If the Z240 is consistently overexposing, i should be able to compensate with the dials right? So you think it's worth getting the converter?

  4. Good advice above. I use a little different technique. I up the shutter a little and drop the stop a little to but I use the tilt of the camera more so. Tilt the camera up and allow the light to come in, lilt the camera down and not allow that light to come in.


    These two shots are from the same day and one after another, a guest asked me the same question you did and these are what I shot to show her. The settings are exactly the same on both images, the only difference is that the blue background is tilted up and nothing in the background to block the blue water and produce the nice blue and the black background is the camera tilted down and I moved slightly to line up a coral head in the background so I'd get black, practice a little with the tilting, it's the easiest.






    Wow, that's great technique you got there! I'll definitely have to try that out. I usually use the shutter speed to control the background and the aperture to control the subject. I find that it gives the most consistent result.

    But getting a blue background is definitely interesting!!! Great photos. I'll have to try this out next time!


    Now the only problem... Have to arrange my next dive trip!!!!!

  5. Hi,

    I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.


    This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying

    'Unit tested & O.K.'.


    I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.




    I was just wondering, what kind of settings to you have the strobes on I have the Z240 too...

    Do you put the strobe on STTL? Low? Auto?

    Or does it automatically go into TTL mode when I have it connected to the converter?



  6. The 105VR will fit in the old compact macro port. but they've made a DX port for the 105VR.


    With the old port, you won't be able to use manual focus, so if you want to use manual focus, that's not an option.

    With the new port DX port base and DX macro port, you'll be able to use the 105VR with manual focus and also the 60mm fits. The only complaint that i have is the manual focus ring is extremely expensive. It's much more expensive than the other focus rings.


    In any case, I don't think the SX extension ring makes big difference in terms of buoyancy.

    I have used both the NX macro port base with the port 79 and also the DX macro port base and DX macro port 50.

    I find the difference to be insignificant. I personally bought the DX port system. I think it works pretty well.


    I am reluctant to add another o-ring in the system, unless it's going to make a huge difference. I personally find my setup pretty good alright. In any case, if you really want to play around with buoyancy, I think it would be better to play around with buoyany arms rather than add another o-ring in the system. Just my 2cent.

    Hope this helps...

  7. Hi,


    I have the same combination but I use the Tokina 12-24 and I had the same problems with the fisheye dome port. The problem is, that the lense is to near to the dome. Thereby it gets blur.


    I tried to use the fisheye dome with the extension ring 40 and now I´m satisfied with the results.





    Jens, how did you manage to use the Tokina? Which zoom gear are you using? does the one for Nikon work for Tokina as well?

  8. Hi,

    I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.


    This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying

    'Unit tested & O.K.'.


    I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.




    how accuracy is the TTL converter? Do i have to turn the converter on first and then the strobe?

  9. Hi everyone

    I've been reading through the post's. Trying to figure out how to best pack my photo gear for travel. I have: Canon 20D, 10/22 lens, 17/85 lens, Ikelite housing, Ikelite DS125 strobe and arm, Dorm port and std port.

    From what I've read so far, most perfer carry on for most of the gear rather then a pelican or storm case as checked luggage.


    I have a tamrac cyber 6 photo back pack.


    Does anyone have a picture of how they pack thier carry on and has anyone had trouble with the airlines max weight with regards to the carry on? I was thinking of getting a storm case and checking it with the housing and strobe and carry on the camera. But it seems some have posted that the pelican and storm case screams "take me". I use to use a alum case (zero haliburton) years ago and never lost anything. But, alis, things have changed.


    So if you could post a picture of how you pack your photo gear for travel that would be helpful.




    I carry mine in a pelican. I also have another camera bag occasionally. Most airline allow an additional hand carry if you're carrying photo equipment...



  10. Hi all


    i'm using DX200 with type I TTL converter and a pair of Z240


    SPOT ON, no problems at all.






    Craig, what mode is your z240 on? I've tried the D200 with the type I TTL converter with a pair of Z240. I haven't been able to get consistent results. I don't even get pre-flashes from the Z240.


    Can you tell me how you got it to work? I'm tempted to try the type II TTL converter to see if it makes a differrence...





  11. I've been using the Sea and Sea DXD200 with the NX fisheye dome port and the Nikon 12-24 lens to shoot some w/a images for around 6 months now.


    I've noticed that I haven't been able to get very clear photos from the setup. The center of the images is quite sharp, but a little off centered, the image starts to blur quite a bit.


    Does anyone have any experience with this? When used with the 10.5 fisheye, everything's good.

    Also does anyone have any experience of the athena optical dome? am I going to see the same effect with the glass dome?

  12. The locking mechanism is exactly like the NX compact macro port base.

    The only difference between the NX and the DX is the larger diameter of the DX port base.

    The Macro port 50 has a larger diameter and a shorter lenght than the Macro port 79.


    I will post more images of the two pieces shortly.


    And yes, there is a manual focus gear as well.

  13. I've played with the D80. I think it's a pretty decent camera for the price you pay. It's definitely not as good as the D200. The exposure's a little different on the D80. The feel is also not as good. The D200 feels very solid in my hands, but the D80 feels more like the D50. That said, it is a pretty small and nice camera. It would definitely be one of the best cameras to take underwater given the price and quality.


    I'm pretty sure Sea and Sea is coming out with a housing for D80 this year. probably in fall. There's already photos of it on the japanese sea and sea forums. The pictures shows a D80 housing which is blue in color.

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