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longbord1

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Posts posted by longbord1


  1. Thanks for the advice! I actually attach it to a "land based" Quick release belt mount! It's more bulk and hydrodynamics I'm worried about, as it already slows me down substantially. I will get back to you on the buoyancy measurement asap. But seems like very strong velcro or some other quick release attachment style would be good.

     

    Thanks for the advice

     

     


  2. Hey TimG!

    I definitely need to do the luggage thing. I bought one, just haven't gotten around to it.

    The only problem with the arms is, I want to keep this rig as streamlined as possible. I often use it while freediving and attach it to my weight belt when I need my hands free. So an arm wasn't something I was interested in. I guess I could attach more foam to the free space on the top left of my housing. Any advice on attaching foam? Specific Glue, velcro?


  3. Good day all,

     

    Been struggling with buoyancy and leveling of my camera since adding on the extended viewfinder. So far this is what I have come up with. Would love any other recommendations or tips on attaching buoyancy or attaching my current buoyancy better. I have put a few small tire weights on the bottom of the dome. It is still back heavy and of course rotates to the right due to the handle. I am a big fan of one handle unless using strobes, to keep the system small.

     

    Thanks!

     

    IMG_5048 (1).jpg

    IMG_5047.jpg


  4. Hey all,

     

    Unsure if anyone has had this issue before. I have a canon sl2, ikelite housing, dual ikelite DS161 strobes. I haven't had this issue before, but after taking around a dozen photos, my mirror locked up and I was unable to view through the viewfinder/take further photos. The remedy was to remove the battery. However it occurred on the second dive as well.

     

    Could these be some sort of voltage issue? Will be calling ikelite tomorrow about it.

     

    Thanks!


  5. Hello all.

     

    I've been offered a killer deal for some Ikelite DS161 strobes. They have not been used in many years, and have lithium ion battery packs. i have read some negative things about the lithium battery packs online, but nothing concrete about what to look for or how to know the longevity of these batteries. I don't really want to spend a large sum upgrading to Nimh if I don't have to right off the bat. 

    Any suggestions on if I should still purchase these strobes(they are allowing me to test them out), and suggestions of how to determine if the lithium batteries will be usable for the long run? Or any other valuable information!

     

    Thanks

     

    Michael


  6. Ikelite 8” dome for compact/mirrorless housings DLM mount. This has an adaptor for the DLM mount.
    I like my smaller dome port more for my style of photography. The dome has no scratches. There are some mild abrasions on the hood. Otherwise awesome condition. 

    Asking $250 + shipping

    IMG_4499.JPG

    IMG_4500.JPG


  7. Chris,

    Thanks for your response. Very thorough and helpful. I emailed ikelite about the sigma vs the canon 15mm and they said they simply hadn't listed it due to discontinuation, but it should be fine for my system.

    It's interesting, the 40mm 2.8 prime has a terrible minimal focusing distance. So I'm not sure what is happening with the image.


  8. ChrisRoss,

     

    Honestly, the charts are helpful, but at the same time, my 15mm 2.8 prime by canon works very well and is not listed. My main goal was to determine if the 40mm pancake lens is focusing on the virtual image of the dome/being correct, or if it is just focusing through the dome port and being magnified by the water.  In my experience with it, it takes very sharp photos, but it is just a bit too cropped for me. I am wondering if the 24mm 2.8 pancake will do something similar, or will actually utilize the dome virtual image? Underwater photography is very niche and there are so many options that it seems like buying the lens and actually experimenting is sometimes the only way to determine the actual outcome. 

     

    Again my goal was, not whether the 24mm prime is compatible, but if the dome port will prevent magnification, or will the lens just focus through the dome port.

     

    Thanks,

    Michael


  9. Here is an example of a photo I captured with the 40mm 2.8 prime on my set up: 

    47403804612_6c27b07889_b.jpg

     

     

    I was really pleased with the tight crop and sharpness of the photo that gives me more of a cinematic feel. However, this lens has a hard time focusing even remotely close, and is just a bit too tight for me. This was shot through a dome port. So this is why I ask about a 24mm with a dome port. Will it be 24mm with the dome port, or will I be focusing through the dome port, and thus the 24mm will be magnified. The 40mm seemed quiet magnified when I was taking photos underwater with it.

     

     


  10. 8 hours ago, Interceptor121 said:

    Dome ports do not magnify ONLY if they are correctly positioned with regards to the entrance pupil of the lens. In cases of lens too close or too far to the dome the loss of field effectively becomes magnification

    I spare you the hundreds of test shots of a ruler underwater I have taken changing dome extensions and keeping the camera in the same point...

    Thank you, 

    The reason I ask, is I am interested in getting a 24mm or 35mm prime for the same set up to get more of a cinematic feel to some of my shots. My concern was would they be magnified, so I should go with the wider prime. 

    I am using an Ikelite housing, Canon SL2 and 15mm canon prime currently.

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