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rlamarche last won the day on July 22 2021

rlamarche had the most liked content!

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About rlamarche

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH5
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Retra PRO / 2x ARGO 5000 lumen
  • Accessories
    WWL-1 + pana 14-42 mk2 / Oly 1.8 fisheye + 140mm glass dome / 7" acrylic dome with pana leica 8-18, 12-60

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  1. Hi, I had plenty of these marks on my WWL-1. I even did ordered a new WWL-1B to replace it. When received the new, I decided to finally try the product I add ordered months ago (mothers did not work for me) : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B001THF8KA/?ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 . I did not use a drilling machine, just by hands with the provided plishing pad. The results were fantastic. There is a debate wether we should use it or not depending on the coating. But in my case, I really had to make photos because the dome was fully covered with these clouds (it had more than 500 dives). It was still working well, but in high contrast situations I was seeing clouds on the photos. The only advice I would give you is to always dry your dome properly after diving. Don't let it dry by itself. I think that's what damaged my WWL-1.
  2. My bad, with the nauticam zoom gear it fits the N85 port. It's me doing it bad before.
  3. EDIT : For the first time I succeed in putting my 8-18 in the housing with the nauticam zoom gear. I think I was not doing it right before. So you can forget about this problem, it is not one anymore, and a very good news for me
  4. Hi, If you go into caves, consider also the Oly fisheye f/1.8 for low lights with the 140mm glass dome from Nauticam (if you are). The 8-18 with Nauticam zoom gear does not fit the N85 port, you have to remove the dome, put the lens, put back the dome every time you want to get in or out the camera from the housing. I've heared that with some homemade zoom gear the problem can be resolved. The combo Pana 14-42mk2 with WWL-1 is very good, and you can remove the WWL-1 underwater to improve the zoom range, but the WWL-1 is quite big and heavy (it sinks even with the buyancy collar) so you have to be careful. You're lens choices seems good to me as I've made the same and without regrets. The 7" dome is also compatible with the Pana-Leica 12-60 f/2.8-4, without any zoom gear problem, and it is great for video. It is even compatible with the Oly 12-40 f/2.8 .. so lot of possible evolutions with this 7" acrylic dome that is inexpensive compared to the 180mm glass dome option. Never tried the Tokina, I stay on native lens for praticity.
  5. Indeed my hypothesis is hypothetic and "non expert" feeling. A friend of mine is a chemist, I'll ask him next time I see him. My idea is that if the surface stays wet a very long time, the chemical reaction proceed. If you dry it, no reaction. And the hard cap prevent it from drying. Maybe it depends with wich water you rinse it, I often thought about using demineralized water.
  6. I you look at video, while moving the camera, you can see a cloud effect moving. On photo, most of the times it is "lost" in the details. But for sure you loose details because of these water marks, mostly contrast. Because the light coming into it is spreaded around the marks and can create ghost effects. So for sure, coating or not, for me, it's worth removing. And this product acted as a miracle, it made my day :-D Let's see how it performs tomorrow...
  7. Here is the exact product I did ordered (from France) : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B001THF8KA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 I also ordered this one but the color is slightly different : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B005M273TM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 If you had seen how was my dome before rubbing it, you would not think about the coating. The glass surface was not smooth anymore, when rubbing it with the end of the finger. I did see some-times the "cloud" effect when facing the sun with dark zones. In air, it was always visible. In water, not always. I don't know how to compare the image quality between the brand new WWL-1B, and the old one. Tell me if you have any idea. Sadly I did not take a photo of the surface of the dome "before", but I can tell you that it was horrible. Now it is like new. I will dive with it tomorrow to see how it performs. Keep you updated. Right now I'm looking for hand pad to repair the lens on the remaining surface neer the lens hood, and smaller ones for the flat macro port that has some small scratches and a few water marks - very little compared to the dome.
  8. What kind of cap do you use on the flat ports ? And on the domes ? For the wwl-1 I always used the plastic hard cap, never the neoprene cover. I'm pretty sure that letting the hard cap on the dome after diving or rinsing, but still wet, would explain this chemical reaction, between the glass dome, the water (salted or not) in the air. Using a neoprene cover might prevent this chemical reaction and would explain why you do not ever had this problem with your glass domes over the years.
  9. Thank you for your insights. Are you sure there is any coating on the glass dome ? By the way it might be possible because I haven't had any trouble with another glass wet wide angle from AOI. But I have this problem also on flat ports from Nauticam. I'm sure that there is an anti-reflective glass coating inside the dome, and this part is in the sealed compartment so it is well protected. But the rear of the WWL-1 has not water marks at all. So your hypothesis might be true, but the coating would have reacted to the clear water with limestone I think. My WWL-1 made a lot of dives, I dive with it every weeks, many times, for 5 years. So not less than 500 dives, always rinsed with clear water after each dive, but not immediately after, and sometimes it was still wet more than 24h after because I did forgot to remove the hard lens cap and was not drying it. In contrast with the typical domes, they have a neoprene cover that, I think, prevent the chemical reactions by not providing any air .. .that's an hypothesis. I will dive with the lens and see if the quality is degraded or not. And I have a brand new WWL-1B to compare with
  10. Hi, I wake up this topic because I've just used this product : https://www.amazon.fr/Glass-Polish-pare-brise-essuie-glace-accessoires/dp/B00ADMA8GQ/ref=asc_df_B00ADMA8GQ/ on my old WWL-1 which had a lot of water marks every-where (I did not dry it well after all dives), and the results were impressive. So I wanted to share it with you. I did it with my hands (no drilling machine) and the provided pads (white side), and with very small efforts I've already removed almost every thing (not more than 30-45 minutes of rubbing). I don't remember where I did read about this product, maybe here but not on this topic ? The "Mothers WaterSpot Remover" dit not work for me, but I hadn't used any pad - just micro fibers a little rugged. The only remaining marks are on the sides of the dome, near the lens hood. These parts are difficult to clean. There were also a very small scratch near the center and it seems to have disapeared (or at least less visible when eye checking through the lens). NOTE : I dit not yet tested it underwater, I will let you know but the water deposits marks were visible mostly when shooting in high contrast situations (sun in front, and big shadows/dark zones). But in air, there are no water deposits anymore in the center and around.
  11. Yes very good news, thank you for the update ! Come and test it here in Marseille ! Not so far from the UK and we get some very nice dive sites
  12. Indeed if you don't get close of the subjects you loose a lot of details & contrast, mostly because of the water (that we love). Maybe I used the wrong terms (sorry for my english). I was mainly speaking about recovering details in high & low lights. I own a D800 since many years, and when I compare how I can recover details in the high lights and low lights on a photo, there is much more informations on the D800 than on the GH5 for the same conditions (above water). Maybe it is because the raw are 14 bits on the D800 and 12 bits on the GH5, or just the amazing capabilies of Nikon D800 sensor. So I was speaking about "stops" I think. I use 2x RETRA PRO flash for lightning and I'm very happy with the colors, no doubt. By the way I use also my GH5 also above water because the D800 and its optics are heavier and I'm glad to bring the GH5 when I go hiking for long days. And I can see the differences when lighting conditions become hard (sunset at back, subject on the first plan, ..) I'll check on the tests when the GH5II body will be out. The fact that the housing might be compatible with the new GH5ii (chances are high) is already a very good news, also if I want to sell my housing or recycle in video/streaming camera.
  13. So I will be waiting for the GH6 and hope for a photo edition of the GH6, or game changing features. I love the M43 format because it is less expensive, less heavy, and smaller, but if the dynamic range don't improve, I would want to go full-frame
  14. Hi, I am like Interceptor21, my only interests are in improving the sensor dynamic range : more pixels, why not but above all, better handling of low and high lights, more post-processing possibilities I don't do enough video for being interested in the new video formats. The live streaming feature might be interesting if coupled with a ROV and a wifi connection between the ROV and the camera (it works underwater on a very short distance). Or we need to have a specific device with an integrated CPL to have the wire going to the surface. It might be less expensive to transport a compressed rtmp video stream rather than HDMI raw video, and most of the time it is enough for live streaming or remote control (using a ROV).
  15. Thanks @dave@immersed ! Here a short video of some rushes of this looong week-end (7 dives in 3.5 days) : I mainly made photos (some visibles in public on my FB profile https://www.facebook.com/romain.lamarche), but sometimes I want to use this "red" button I really have to paint this lens, even in video underwater I see these numbers ... Or buy the 180mm glass dome & adapter (~2000 € ..)
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