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divengolf

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divengolf last won the day on July 26 2020

divengolf had the most liked content!

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About divengolf

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    User name says it all- Dive & Golf, plus a little fishin' when I can.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ike DS-125s (2X)
  • Accessories
    Lens: Tokina 10-17; Sigma 17-70; Nikkor 60 macro; Nikon 105 macro

Recent Profile Visitors

7526 profile views
  1. I use 5/16" stainless steel cap screws for my Aquatica housing handles. I coat them with a light layer of silicone and remove the handles and cap screws after each trip. Never had a problem with corrosion. Make sure that the sacrificial anodes in the bottom of the housing are in good shape.
  2. sinetwo: Consider going to the Cocos rather than Socorro. Some similarity in the big animals, plus a country that is relatively safe and and a government that is tourist friendly unlike Mexico. Mexico was off my list for now, possibly forever and that includes Cancún for whale sharks and Cozumel for drift diving. The only way we can vote is with our pocketbook.
  3. We use an app called Syncovery to do all our backup on a relatively small scale (Total data 6 – 8 TB). I have both a third internal hard drive for dedicated backup and an external HD for off-site storage which I backup to every 2 weeks. Once set up, this app is extremely easy and quick to use. I'm not a big fan of backing up to the cloud.
  4. In addition to hands-on training, I would suggest that she obtain a current copy of Martin Edge's excellent book, The Underwater Photographer. I believe it is in the 5th edition. Many people consider this the ultimate bible for UW photography.
  5. If you are eligible for USAA (former or current military), they offer an all risk, no deductible policy called Valuable Personal Property. I’ve had a couple claims over the years for damaged cameras and lens. Once I have documentation, they paid the entire cost promptly and without question. Plus it’s relatively inexpensive. 1-2% of declared value.
  6. TimG: I do miss the U1, etc. functions on the dial that are common on the Nikon consumer cameras. On the D500, I do a workaround using the banks and the save/load option to the chip. This requires a few more steps but I have the save/load command in My Menu and bring it up with the Fn2 button. I'm sure that you do something similar. Harry
  7. I do not shoot the D500 underwater, but I do shoot it extensively on land. Adding to TimG's reply above, you will also need to set the "Extended photo memory banks" in the Photo Shooting Menu to ON for each bank in order to retain the shutter, aperture, iso etc. when moving from bank to bank. Note that the D500 banks work differently than the U1 & U2 settings on other Nikon cameras, in that the settings for the shutter, aperture, etc. in the D500 are retained as those last used when you change banks. If you need further explanation, please let me know. Harry
  8. As one who is diving more infrequently these days, when I get home from a trip, I do an extended soak working all buttons and levers as described above. After that I remove the housing and strobe battery compartment O-rings for cleaning and storage. I lubricate the O-rings well before placing them in a plastic bag. I do not leave the O-rings in place when the housing & strobes are sitting unused for a couple months. I also have a vacuum system to verify that the O-rings are holding before every dive. Good for my peace of mind
  9. I purchased the Toslink FO cable and L-shaped Connectors for S&S YS-D1 strobes. As best I recall I bought the connectors from X-404 (??). Using an Aquatica housing. Worked great. Highly recommend. Easy fabrication with a sharp razor blade. Used wire strippers to remove about 1/8" of the outer coating on the tip toward the housing.
  10. Excellent post. I went to the DIY route last year based on postings in WP. It's great to be part of a group that so readily shares their knowledge and experience. Thanks to all. Harry
  11. This dome shade works with the Aquatica 8" dome only. Very little use. PP only; USA only. $65 plus shipping.
  12. Jakob, I cannot comment on the specifics of your housing as I am an Aquatica user. However it is very common to cut the fiber-optic cable as you describe. There are several threads on WP that describe fabricating cables using third-party parts. I use S&S YS-D1 strobes and have cut the FO cables several times to adapt them as needed. The key is to use a very sharp, preferably brand-new, razor blade and make a clean-cut perpendicular to the run of the FO cable. Although some people have had success with a diagonal cut, I don't believe that is a good strategy. You may also need to remove some of the plastic coating on the cable before you are able to insert it into the housing adapter. Good luck and if you have any further questions, just post on WP. You will find our community is very supportive of new photographers and their questions. Harry
  13. Gradient, give me a couple days and I'll get a pic together. Harry
  14. Interesting discussion. I take a different approach to achieving neutral buoyancy. I've built a small frame out of 1/4" polycarbonate that I attach to the bottom of the housing via the 1/4" female thread. Then I attach links of 2 " PVC pipe capped on both ends to the frame using tie wraps. This allows me to adjust the buoyancy by changing the length/number of the PVC pipes. I fine tune the rig to get about 1/2 # negative in fresh water at home which is about neutral in salt water. The major advantages are that it's easy to make buoyancy changes when needed and that nothing gets in my sight line. The major disadvantage is that it adds about 3 inches to the bottom of the housing, so getting down into the sand is sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use this set up mainly for macro as I remove two 14 " buoyancy arms from my strokes when I go from dome port to flat port. Another advantage is that it's real cheap. I have less than $10 USD in the setup. Just another approach.
  15. I am also pro lanyard all the time. I totally agree with davehicks as I have had to assist a fellow diver (not my buddy, I dive mostly solo) in a rapidly deteriorating situation where panic was about to set in. Every second was precious to prevent him from doing an emergency ascent (equipment problem with reg.). Since my kit was already attached using a lanyard similar to that pic from ChrisRoss, I just dropped it and used both hands to deal with the panicked diver. Fortunately everything worked out. I attach my lanyard to a D-ring on my BCD belt. That way it stays out of my chest area and dangles below my feet when dropped assuming there is no bottom just below me.
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