Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


divengolf last won the day on July 26

divengolf had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

15 Good

About divengolf

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    User name says it all- Dive & Golf, plus a little fishin' when I can.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ike DS-125s (2X)
  • Accessories
    Lens: Tokina 10-17; Sigma 17-70; Nikkor 60 macro; Nikon 105 macro

Recent Profile Visitors

7130 profile views
  1. Lewis88, I have a LS Ver 4 which I believe is a different configuration than the V 5. Email Miso and he'll get you the correct info. To add to Kraken's excellent write up, my opinion is that the LS will best detect a small leak due to the pressure change prior to the start of a dive assuming that you allow it a few minutes. As I recall with the V4, it takes about a reduction of absolute pressure of 0.1 ata to change the light from blinking red to solid green as you pump down. Then an increase in absolute pressure of about 0.05 ata to cause the light to flash red indicating a leak. Miso gave me these numbers some years ago, so this is from memory. Depending on the volume of your housing, dome, etc., amount of air (or water) required to trip the red LS alarm can be significant. So I feel that the LS 4 (or any similar vacuum system) is best used for predive leak check allowing a good amount of time after pumping down the housing. Usually I prepare my housing the night before and allow lots of time under the vacuum. If I have to open the housing midday, I try to allow at least 15 and preferably 30 minutes after getting the solid green. Once in the water, I mostly rely on the internal leak detector as a drop or two of salt water (or condensation) will trigger it giving you a chance to save your camera, etc. Far less water will trigger the leak detector than will trigger the red light on the LS4 IMO. If you ever get the leak alarm UW, immediately point your port straight down and hold that position until out of the water and able to open your housing. That way the water should accumulate in the port. If it's a small amount of water, you may be able to save your camera, etc. Also I am a big proponent of the LS system. Miso has a real winner in his design and support. I would suggest that you buy directly from Miso. He ships promptly. It took about a week to get my LS from him. I'm in the states. Harry
  2. Here is a write up on a comparison between light room and capture one. Granted it's a bit dated, but Photography Life is one of the best general photography websites that I have found. There are other articles on capture one on the site if you search for them. I am still using a legacy lightroom version as I do not care to go the subscription route. Thus I've been looking seriously at moving to another processing package. https://photographylife.com/lightroom-vs-capture-one
  3. Adam, Another excellent presentation. A couple ideas: It's useful to use a thin thread or similar to attach the diffusors to the strobe. Having inadvertently lost a few diffusors while UW, the diffusors with my YS-D1s have a hole to attach and I loop the thread around the post on the ball mount. Haven't lost one since. Not elegant, but it works well. For additional topics, consider using many of the topics discussed in Alex's Masterclass book. I can't tell you how useful this book is as it's very concise and informative. That is after one reads Martin Edge's book a few times. Harry O'Neil
  4. Adam, just watched the video on strobe triggering options. You and Alex made a point of mentioning the expense involved buying backup cables as spares. There have been a few recent threads on WP about buying FO cable material directly and fabricating spares at a fraction of the cost of those sold by the strobe manufacturers. Understand that may be a sensitive subject given the support that manufacturers provide to WP, but for us FO users this is a very inexpensive way to carry spare cables. just my. 2 psi worth. PS > LOVE the live WP series. Only way to “get wet “ these days. Harry O’Neil
  5. I have a DS-51 if you're interested. PM me.
  6. calbeardiver: looking at this thread and the thread on scubaboard, it is obviously a problem beyond a couple instances. Nautilus has posted information on their site on how to handle it and a suggested form in Spanish to give the custom folks. They certainly are reacting to situations their customers have found going through customs at SJD and perhaps La Paz. I believe that dirvndeep is doing us all a favor in highlighting the situation. I, for one, will be avoiding Mexico for the foreseeable future until this situation is resolved.
  7. The previously cited scuba board thread has some pretty good information on packing methods that have been successful. But it's really just a crapshoot. If you get the red light, you're toast. Also if you're caught lying to the customs folks, things can get nasty and expensive. I was planning to go down there to Socorro in May 2020. Just changed my mind based on this fiasco/shakedown and will be going to Cocos instead. I also sent an email to the Solmar V folks advising them of my decision to pass on Socorro and asked them to do what they can to influence a change. I'm not optimistic. In the meantime all of Mexico is off my list, although it appears only Baja is affected right now. Last August I went through Cancun Airport on my way to a WP whale shark trip. I was asked a number of questions about my gear, but ended up getting through without a problem. I hired one of their porters to handle my cases in Cancun. That may have helped.
  8. I have arthritis in my hands and had a similar problem with my aquatica housing. I fabricated a wood spacer to move the right handle out about 1-1/2” from its normal position. This allowed me to get my right hand right next to the housing and operate the shutter and the AF–ON levers without problem. Of course I had to buy a longer machine screw to attach the right handle through the spacer. Make sure that you use stainless steel machine screws.
  9. I’ve have had two D1s for a number of years without problem. But with S&S apparently not standing behind their product, according to Reef Photo comment, I’ll not consider any of their products when replacement time comes. In today’s market, it’s inexcusable that a manufacturer would not admit a mistake and cast their customers adrift without support.
  10. Not knowing which vacuum system you are using, here's how I solved the problem. I have an Aquatica housing with a Leak Sentinel V4 vacuum system. I wrapped a rubber band around the LS housing with enough light exposed to permit me to see the light. It was only a problem on night dives. My version of LS is fine during the day and does not cause me any distraction. BTY once UW I rely on the housing moisture sensor to alert me to any flooding. I don't believe that the LS is sensitive enough to be of any value once UW. I use it predive to verify that there is no air leakage into the housing and leave it setup for an hour plus predive when I can.
  11. Echoing what ratfish stated above, I have had excellent service from Ikelite. Over the years, I've had to return both DS-51 and DS-125 strobes for various problems. Service is fast, price is reasonable and the cust. serv. is responsive. Using S&S D1s now without problems, but it sounds like I'm in the minority.
  12. Kraken, Excellent post. No need to pay the outrageous prices that photo equipment manufacturers charge. I have used standard O-rings of Buna-N, Duro 70 for years without any issues. I purchase them from McMaster in quantity and give many away. You can also purchase the blue flouro-silicon ones commonly used with S&S strobes from them. Note that there are also O-rings with square cross sections commonly used in housings with push buttons. The only place that I'd be a little cautious is regulators. I always buy the manufacturer's rebuild kit when it's time. Thanks. Harry
  13. auder, I have a Epoque DCL-20-67DR wide angle lens that I have not used in a few years. It is in great shape except it has a small mark on the front of the lens. This mark fills with water and does not effect the pics. Includes front & rear caps and original bag. Willing to sell it for USD150.00 plus shipping and insurance. Currently listed on Amazon for $360.00 (new). If you're interested PM me with shipping details and I'll get some pricing. Harry
  14. Diver Dave, WP's review of the NA-D7000 by Alex Mustard discusses the use of the BBF using the AE-L/AF-L button on the back on page 2 of the review. Google it. I cannot copy/paste from it for some reason. I shoot Aquatica with my D7000 and use BBF using the same technique that Dr. Mustard describes. BBF is so common in UW photog that I cannot believe that Nauticam housing doesn't allow it. And Dr. Mustard's review implies that he uses it and there is a way to control the AE-L/AF-L button via the housing. Since I don't have a Nauticam housing, I cannot help any further. It appears that you understand that CSM f5 is the way to reprogram the AE-L/AF-L button to AF-ON for BBF. Harry
  15. Incredible video. Please More details on the process. I've seen many octopi, but never anything like this.
  • Create New...