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divengolf

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divengolf last won the day on January 20 2018

divengolf had the most liked content!

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About divengolf

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

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  • Website URL
    http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    User name says it all- Dive & Golf, plus a little fishin' when I can.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ike DS-125s (2X)
  • Accessories
    Lens: Tokina 10-17; Sigma 17-70; Nikkor 60 macro; Nikon 105 macro
  1. I have arthritis in my hands and had a similar problem with my aquatica housing. I fabricated a wood spacer to move the right handle out about 1-1/2” from its normal position. This allowed me to get my right hand right next to the housing and operate the shutter and the AF–ON levers without problem. Of course I had to buy a longer machine screw to attach the right handle through the spacer. Make sure that you use stainless steel machine screws.
  2. I’ve have had two D1s for a number of years without problem. But with S&S apparently not standing behind their product, according to Reef Photo comment, I’ll not consider any of their products when replacement time comes. In today’s market, it’s inexcusable that a manufacturer would not admit a mistake and cast their customers adrift without support.
  3. Not knowing which vacuum system you are using, here's how I solved the problem. I have an Aquatica housing with a Leak Sentinel V4 vacuum system. I wrapped a rubber band around the LS housing with enough light exposed to permit me to see the light. It was only a problem on night dives. My version of LS is fine during the day and does not cause me any distraction. BTY once UW I rely on the housing moisture sensor to alert me to any flooding. I don't believe that the LS is sensitive enough to be of any value once UW. I use it predive to verify that there is no air leakage into the housing and leave it setup for an hour plus predive when I can.
  4. Echoing what ratfish stated above, I have had excellent service from Ikelite. Over the years, I've had to return both DS-51 and DS-125 strobes for various problems. Service is fast, price is reasonable and the cust. serv. is responsive. Using S&S D1s now without problems, but it sounds like I'm in the minority.
  5. Kraken, Excellent post. No need to pay the outrageous prices that photo equipment manufacturers charge. I have used standard O-rings of Buna-N, Duro 70 for years without any issues. I purchase them from McMaster in quantity and give many away. You can also purchase the blue flouro-silicon ones commonly used with S&S strobes from them. Note that there are also O-rings with square cross sections commonly used in housings with push buttons. The only place that I'd be a little cautious is regulators. I always buy the manufacturer's rebuild kit when it's time. Thanks. Harry
  6. auder, I have a Epoque DCL-20-67DR wide angle lens that I have not used in a few years. It is in great shape except it has a small mark on the front of the lens. This mark fills with water and does not effect the pics. Includes front & rear caps and original bag. Willing to sell it for USD150.00 plus shipping and insurance. Currently listed on Amazon for $360.00 (new). If you're interested PM me with shipping details and I'll get some pricing. Harry
  7. Diver Dave, WP's review of the NA-D7000 by Alex Mustard discusses the use of the BBF using the AE-L/AF-L button on the back on page 2 of the review. Google it. I cannot copy/paste from it for some reason. I shoot Aquatica with my D7000 and use BBF using the same technique that Dr. Mustard describes. BBF is so common in UW photog that I cannot believe that Nauticam housing doesn't allow it. And Dr. Mustard's review implies that he uses it and there is a way to control the AE-L/AF-L button via the housing. Since I don't have a Nauticam housing, I cannot help any further. It appears that you understand that CSM f5 is the way to reprogram the AE-L/AF-L button to AF-ON for BBF. Harry
  8. Incredible video. Please More details on the process. I've seen many octopi, but never anything like this.
  9. In surface cages at Guadalupe, we didn’t use strobes. Natural light worked fine. Deep cage may require strobes, depending on the ambient light. I was on the Solmar V. But weight was one of the reasons that I got rid of the Ike 125s and went to the S&S D1s, now D2s. The other reason was the proprietary batteries.
  10. I clip mine to my rig and pass both up together. Have it around my left wrist while in the water with rig. Use a small spiral bracelet that fits over my wrist.
  11. Just noticed that photographylife.com just posted a new review on Gnarbox 2.0 SSD. Appears that it's a better BU option than the WD device I discussed above.
  12. Just read diver dave1 post. There is a app "Fast Raw Viewer" that makes culling images prior to import into LR very easy. On photographylife.com, there are a couple good reviews of this app. Saves a lot of time vs importing everything into LR. I only import those few pics that I want to work.
  13. photographylife.com just did a review on the WD wireless backup unit discussed above. I cannot post a link to it for some reason, but it's available on their web site. But if you delete your files from the SD chip after using the WD unit, that only give you one copy. I always either bring enough chips to avoid the need to delete any files after BU, or use a laptop with an external HD to do multiple BUs. Plus my camera will write to two SD chips as pics are being taken given me an automatic BU in case the worst happens. My goal at the end of a trip is to have three complete sets of files all traveling in different places, on person, in carry on and in checked luggage. Fortunately I've never lost any pics to bad chips, etc., but my time will come. It always does.
  14. I believe that your concern about the age of the housing is well founded. If the housing has been closed and locked for this period of time, the housing o-ring is probably flat as a pancake. Add into the price the cost of a complete overhaul by Ikelite to insure no problems on your trip. Also I don't feel that 35% off of list is much of a bargain. I have a D7000 with an Aquatica setup and am seeing used housings being offered a far better pricing that what you cite. And most likely these housings have been used recently, so may not need any refurb. although it's always a good idea with resale gear. Also I would never take a new UW rig on a major trip without thoroughly testing it at pressure. Maybe someone has a pressure pot you could use if you can't do a local dive or two.
  15. I have a D7000 and use the 8" acrylic dome with the 10-17 and the Sigma 17-70. Both require extension rings. I believe that the 8" is available in acrylic only and the 9-1/2" dome is glass. The 9-1/2 is a beast to travel with. Google "aquatic D7000 system chart" for details on components. For some reason, I cannot post the link here. Go to Nikon Type 4 lens chart on Aquatica site for info on the extension rings, etc. Hope that this helps. PM me for more info. Welcome to WP!!
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