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divengolf

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divengolf last won the day on July 26 2020

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About divengolf

  • Rank
    Sting Ray

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Virginia
  • Interests
    User name says it all- Dive & Golf, plus a little fishin' when I can.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ike DS-125s (2X)
  • Accessories
    Lens: Tokina 10-17; Sigma 17-70; Nikkor 60 macro; Nikon 105 macro

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  1. This dome shade works with the Aquatica 8" dome only. Very little use. PP only; USA only. $65 plus shipping.
  2. Jakob, I cannot comment on the specifics of your housing as I am an Aquatica user. However it is very common to cut the fiber-optic cable as you describe. There are several threads on WP that describe fabricating cables using third-party parts. I use S&S YS-D1 strobes and have cut the FO cables several times to adapt them as needed. The key is to use a very sharp, preferably brand-new, razor blade and make a clean-cut perpendicular to the run of the FO cable. Although some people have had success with a diagonal cut, I don't believe that is a good strategy. You may also need to remove some of the plastic coating on the cable before you are able to insert it into the housing adapter. Good luck and if you have any further questions, just post on WP. You will find our community is very supportive of new photographers and their questions. Harry
  3. Gradient, give me a couple days and I'll get a pic together. Harry
  4. Interesting discussion. I take a different approach to achieving neutral buoyancy. I've built a small frame out of 1/4" polycarbonate that I attach to the bottom of the housing via the 1/4" female thread. Then I attach links of 2 " PVC pipe capped on both ends to the frame using tie wraps. This allows me to adjust the buoyancy by changing the length/number of the PVC pipes. I fine tune the rig to get about 1/2 # negative in fresh water at home which is about neutral in salt water. The major advantages are that it's easy to make buoyancy changes when needed and that nothing gets in my sight line. The major disadvantage is that it adds about 3 inches to the bottom of the housing, so getting down into the sand is sometimes a bit of a challenge. I use this set up mainly for macro as I remove two 14 " buoyancy arms from my strokes when I go from dome port to flat port. Another advantage is that it's real cheap. I have less than $10 USD in the setup. Just another approach.
  5. I am also pro lanyard all the time. I totally agree with davehicks as I have had to assist a fellow diver (not my buddy, I dive mostly solo) in a rapidly deteriorating situation where panic was about to set in. Every second was precious to prevent him from doing an emergency ascent (equipment problem with reg.). Since my kit was already attached using a lanyard similar to that pic from ChrisRoss, I just dropped it and used both hands to deal with the panicked diver. Fortunately everything worked out. I attach my lanyard to a D-ring on my BCD belt. That way it stays out of my chest area and dangles below my feet when dropped assuming there is no bottom just below me.
  6. I am cleaning out my dive library as the end of my diving days are not too far in the future. The following books (all paperback except as noted) are up for sale to a good home: Lonely Planet Series (Destination Guides) 1. Diving and Snorkeling Dominica 2. Diving and Snorkeling Turks & Caicos 3. Diving and Snorkeling Bahamas 4. Diving and Snorkeling Bonaire 5. Diving and Snorkeling Belize 6. Diving and Snorkeling Cayman Islands 7. Diving and Snorkeling Curacao (Older edition) Books # 1-6 are $10/ea and #7 is $5. All are in excellent condition. They have some highlighting and underlining, but otherwise are 9/10. Ned DeLoach’s Diving Guide to Underwater Florida, 11th edition (updated). Excellent condition with minimal underlining/highlighting. $10. 100 Diving Sites-Underwater Paradises around the Globe. Coffee table hard cover book. Excellent condition. $12. Digital Imaging for the Underwater Photographer by Jack and Sue Drafahl. $12. SOLD Master Guide for Underwater Digital Photography by Jack and Sue Drafahl. $12.SOLD The Drafahl’s are two of the better known and respected UW photogs and instructors. Both Books are in very good to excellent condition. The Underwater Photographer by Martin Edge. Third Edition. This is an older edition, but still contains a wealth of information for a beginning UW photog. Martin Edge is one of the gods of UW photography. This is in GOOD condition as it was used a lot when I purchased it. Numerous underlining and highlighting. An excellent starting point for a newbie. $10. The Underwater Photographer by Martin Edge. Fourth Edition. This is also an older edition (the Fifth edition was released just last year), but still contains a wealth of information for an intermediate UW photog. This is in GOOD condition as it was used a lot when I purchased it. Numerous underlining and highlighting. $15. ** Diver Down-Real World Scuba Accidents and How to Avoid Them by Michael Ange. Ange is one of the experts in UW accident analysis. Good reading for the beginning and intermediate diver. Excellent condition. $10. ** The Certified Diver’s Handbook by Clay Coleman. Another beginner to low intermediate instruction book. Covers equipment, the environment, diving scenarios how to stay out of trouble. Excellent condition. $10. ** Dive like a Pro by Robert N. Rossier. For the basic student or newly certified diver. $10. ** These three books are $17.00 total as a package. Shipping extra. SDI Solo Diving Manual. The instructional manual for the SDI Solo Diver certification. Good reading even if you do not want to dive solo. NAUI First Aid for Divers. Was part of my Rescue Diver course. Excellent refresher although the procedures CPR section has been changed a bit (CAB, not ABC). Otherwise, a good reference. $10. Three ring zippered notebook for 5" X 8" dive logs. Diver down and alpha pennants embroidered on front. May have some blank pages if I can find them. Free if you buy some books. Payment is by PayPal only. Will ship to PayPal verified address only. Will ship via USPS. Shipping is additional. Will send shipping quote upon request. All duties, custom fees are your responsibility. PM me if interested for more info/pics. Too many pics to post. Will be glad to send pics of the table of contents if desired
  7. After about 1000 dives age has crept up on me and I'm getting close to hanging up my reg. Certainly long distance trips to the other side of the world are a thing of the past. So, I'm looking to sell several destination, etc. books that I have accumulated over the years. Here's a list. All are in excellent condition After about 1000 dives age has crept up on me and I'm getting close to hanging up my reg. Certainly long distance trips to the other side of the world are a thing of the past. So, I'm looking to sell several destination, etc. books that I have accumulated over the years. Here's a list. All are in excellent condition with very limited highlighting and perhaps a few written notes. I have pics of all covers that I'll be glad to email so you can confirm. I believe that all of these are first (and only) editions and most are out of print. Used copies are quite expensive via Amazon. Just trying to find good homes for these. 1. Diving Indonesia’s Raja Ampat; Burt Jones & Maurine Shimlock $35.00; Out of Print. Listed at $80 used on Amazon. 2. Underwater Paradise-A Diving Guide to Raja Ampat; Ricard Buxo $30.00 Also out of print. Listed at $84 used on Amazon. 3. Diving Indonesia’s Bird’s Head Seascape; Burt Jones & Maurine Shimlock $35.00 Also out of print. Listed at $140 used on Amazon. SOLD 4. Diving Southeast Asia; Beth & Shaun Tierney $27.00 May be OOP. This book covers diving in Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand and Singapore. 5. Reef Creature Identification-Tropical Pacific; Paul Humann & Ned DeLoach $35.00 This one is special. It's a First Edition; Pre-Release Edition signed by both authors. Number 15/500. It also has the Pre Release embossed sticker next to the author's signature. The first three above are considered the bibles for diving Raja. If you haven't been, GO after the virus gets under control. Despite all of the recent (last 10-15 years) diving activity, it's still a stunning place with incredible diversity. Payment is by PayPal only. Will ship to PayPal verified address only. Will ship via USPS. Freight is additional. Will send shipping quote upon request. All duties, custom fees are your responsibility. PM me if interested for more info/pics.
  8. Lewis88, I have a LS Ver 4 which I believe is a different configuration than the V 5. Email Miso and he'll get you the correct info. To add to Kraken's excellent write up, my opinion is that the LS will best detect a small leak due to the pressure change prior to the start of a dive assuming that you allow it a few minutes. As I recall with the V4, it takes about a reduction of absolute pressure of 0.1 ata to change the light from blinking red to solid green as you pump down. Then an increase in absolute pressure of about 0.05 ata to cause the light to flash red indicating a leak. Miso gave me these numbers some years ago, so this is from memory. Depending on the volume of your housing, dome, etc., amount of air (or water) required to trip the red LS alarm can be significant. So I feel that the LS 4 (or any similar vacuum system) is best used for predive leak check allowing a good amount of time after pumping down the housing. Usually I prepare my housing the night before and allow lots of time under the vacuum. If I have to open the housing midday, I try to allow at least 15 and preferably 30 minutes after getting the solid green. Once in the water, I mostly rely on the internal leak detector as a drop or two of salt water (or condensation) will trigger it giving you a chance to save your camera, etc. Far less water will trigger the leak detector than will trigger the red light on the LS4 IMO. If you ever get the leak alarm UW, immediately point your port straight down and hold that position until out of the water and able to open your housing. That way the water should accumulate in the port. If it's a small amount of water, you may be able to save your camera, etc. Also I am a big proponent of the LS system. Miso has a real winner in his design and support. I would suggest that you buy directly from Miso. He ships promptly. It took about a week to get my LS from him. I'm in the states. Harry
  9. Here is a write up on a comparison between light room and capture one. Granted it's a bit dated, but Photography Life is one of the best general photography websites that I have found. There are other articles on capture one on the site if you search for them. I am still using a legacy lightroom version as I do not care to go the subscription route. Thus I've been looking seriously at moving to another processing package. https://photographylife.com/lightroom-vs-capture-one
  10. Adam, Another excellent presentation. A couple ideas: It's useful to use a thin thread or similar to attach the diffusors to the strobe. Having inadvertently lost a few diffusors while UW, the diffusors with my YS-D1s have a hole to attach and I loop the thread around the post on the ball mount. Haven't lost one since. Not elegant, but it works well. For additional topics, consider using many of the topics discussed in Alex's Masterclass book. I can't tell you how useful this book is as it's very concise and informative. That is after one reads Martin Edge's book a few times. Harry O'Neil
  11. Adam, just watched the video on strobe triggering options. You and Alex made a point of mentioning the expense involved buying backup cables as spares. There have been a few recent threads on WP about buying FO cable material directly and fabricating spares at a fraction of the cost of those sold by the strobe manufacturers. Understand that may be a sensitive subject given the support that manufacturers provide to WP, but for us FO users this is a very inexpensive way to carry spare cables. just my. 2 psi worth. PS > LOVE the live WP series. Only way to “get wet “ these days. Harry O’Neil
  12. I have a DS-51 if you're interested. PM me.
  13. calbeardiver: looking at this thread and the thread on scubaboard, it is obviously a problem beyond a couple instances. Nautilus has posted information on their site on how to handle it and a suggested form in Spanish to give the custom folks. They certainly are reacting to situations their customers have found going through customs at SJD and perhaps La Paz. I believe that dirvndeep is doing us all a favor in highlighting the situation. I, for one, will be avoiding Mexico for the foreseeable future until this situation is resolved.
  14. The previously cited scuba board thread has some pretty good information on packing methods that have been successful. But it's really just a crapshoot. If you get the red light, you're toast. Also if you're caught lying to the customs folks, things can get nasty and expensive. I was planning to go down there to Socorro in May 2020. Just changed my mind based on this fiasco/shakedown and will be going to Cocos instead. I also sent an email to the Solmar V folks advising them of my decision to pass on Socorro and asked them to do what they can to influence a change. I'm not optimistic. In the meantime all of Mexico is off my list, although it appears only Baja is affected right now. Last August I went through Cancun Airport on my way to a WP whale shark trip. I was asked a number of questions about my gear, but ended up getting through without a problem. I hired one of their porters to handle my cases in Cancun. That may have helped.
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