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About ReyeR

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney, Australia

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus C-5050
  • Camera Housing
    Olympus PT-015
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Dual Ikelite DS-125
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms, Fisheye tray
  1. Inon has announced their replacement for the Z220F. As predicted it is similar to the mish-mash D-2000 but has a 5-pin connector. New INON strobes: D-2000W and D-2000Wn Web page (Japanese): http://www.inon.co.jp/cgis/news/wforum.cgi...w&page=0&news=1 Un-official translation (non-google): coming soon
  2. Considering that there wasn't much difference in design / performance between the Z220 and 220F (except for the focus light controller), I'm not surprised. I was actually surprised that the 220F was released without much change. Hopefully they are taking into account the more demanding pre-flash requirements of the current/future Digicams / DSLRs, and a little more power would be nice. I hope they're not planning a 'sync cord' mish-mash version of the D-2000!
  3. Yes, very, very interesting. Hope pricing won't be an issue - their excellent quality poly housing has always been very affordable. Does that mean the end of their 'wide flat port' faux pas days? I hope so.
  4. Good test report James. One thing I notice, with the photo of the back of the strobe for the S-TTL test: You have the Mode dial set to 'S-TTL Low' and the EV dial at 9 o'clock. Inon recommends you start at position 'B' ie 12 o'clock. With the EV dial at 9 o'clock you've basically dialed a '+' exposure compensation of +3 steps. Did you do your 'S-TTL Low' test with the EV dial set at that position? If so, why?
  5. Who did you buy your D-2000 from? With the release of the D-2000 Inon has decided not to publish the English manual online. You will need to contact the vendor who you bought it from. There was a big discussion about this on digtaldiver.net: English version of D-2000 manual For S-TTL: If you're aiming the built-in focus-assist/aiming light at the subject then Inon advises that you stick the red filter sticker over it so it doesn't affect the S-TTL exposure. Start with 'S-TTL Low' on the mode dial and the EV dial at position 'B'. If the strobe exposure is too bright then dial it clock wise towards the '-C', you have 5 steps to reduce the strobe power (range surrounded by the yellow arc). If the strobe exposure is under then dial the EV controller anti-clockwise towards the '+A'. You have 3 steps to bump the exposure up with. If your exposure is still under after you have bumped it up by 3 steps in 'S-TTL Low' mode then switch the mode dial to 'S-TTL' and the EV dial to 'B' and try again.
  6. Here's the english verison for it: UWL-100 28 AD.
  7. I've tried IE and firefox - no luck. This is a known problem and apparently not an easy one to fix: http://www.wetpixel.com/PNphpBB2-viewtopic...ic-t-7045.phtml
  8. These pics say one thing to me: it's the photographer, not the camera that takes great pictures. Thanks for sharing!
  9. scubamauro is trying to find a way to get a brighter image while composing, not after it is taken. Does the C8080 have something like a 'M mode Real' ON/OFF option? I know the C5060 does. When set to ON the camera will show the scene at the brightness of the selected exposure settings. A focus assist light will also help.
  10. Also, the optical convertor only understands Nikonos TTL . So in all probability it won't work with Canon E-TTL. So if it doesn't put out the correct pre-flashes etc, the D-2000, which is a 'mimick TTL' strobe, won't give you the correct results in S-TTL either. I'm not sure which Canon DSLR you have but this: http://www.muenster.de/~matthias/blitz/ettle.htm might work for you with Inon Z220 strobes.
  11. Consistency of the TTL exposure of the Matthias' DA2 is superb...
  12. Don't know about the US but Yuzo in Japan has had it listed on his website since October. Look under 'Video Lights'. He is great to deal with: http://www.uwdigitalcamera.com/English/euw...igitalindex.htm
  13. Sorry, can't see the image. When I said use a focus-assist light I meant use an external one, like a diffused dive torch, and not the camera's AF Illumintator. Cheers.
  14. If you just want to resize (or some basic colour correction) then this is a good program. It'll retain the camera info (exif data) when you resize. It is free: http://www.irfanview.com Or checkout the CD that came with your camera - it probably has it's own image processing program. Otherwise Adobe Photoshop (version 7 and CS) is a very powerful package but is very pricey.
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