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Algwyn

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About Algwyn

  • Rank
    Starfish

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Paris

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    France
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7500
  • Camera Housing
    Easydive Leo 3
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Subal SN800, Sea&Sea YS-D2, Retra Strobe

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  1. I can only guess at the first question: bumpers would be neutral/negative buoyancy, while the neoprene cover would be slightly positive. Bumpers would facilitate cooling of the flashes through direct contact between flash body and water. it would be great if Oskar could confirm benefits of the bumpers vs. neoprene cover. According to the Retra website, most accessories (diffusers, neoprene cover, reduction ring) are compatible for all versions of the flash. The bumper and LSD seem to have a different version between the Original and new retra flashes. Leakage detector is still in the specs of the Retra Prime and Pro Alain
  2. Hi, Not with a SB 5000, but with a SB 800. Connected to housing with a Nikonos 5 cable. Great thing is that you get all the power of Nikon TTL system. The camera recognise the flash and you get the full benefits of the direct communication between the camera and flash. Weakness is that this TTL system only support a single flash with a wired connection. To get two flashes you have to either: use a third party system to split the TTL signal to two flashes switch to manual flash In both cases, you loses the benefits of the native communication between the Nikon Flash and Camera. In Nikon TTL system, secondary flashes are designed to be commanded by the Master flash through light signal. This doesn't really work well in a housing underwater, especially with housing like the Subal, with hides the light flash sensor inside the housing. You could try to use an UW strobe which can be commanded as slave through a light sensor. However this is less reliable than using fiber optics. Given that a flash housing like Subal's are about as expensive than a Retra strobe ... I gave up trying to tinker a way to make this work. But for those who are interested in tinkering, there could be a way to make this work with a custom fiber optic rigs to transmit the light signal between the Master and slave flashes. Many would say that you don't need TTL, and that they are using their UW strobes in manual. In that case there is little benefit using a Nikon SB 5000 in a housing. The flash housing is also quite big and heavy compared to a strobe. When traveling this is a big disadvantages. This is why I've stopped using this housing and switched to UW strobes.
  3. That's surprising, I thought the Nikonos strobes were using the Nikonos 5 pin sockets and cables, which were designed for these Nikonos strobes. Most SLR housing manufacturers may install Nikonos 5 pin strobe sockets on the housing. That's part of their configuration options: Aquatica (option for their D850 housing for example: #20084-NK Aquatica housing for Nikon D850 with Dual Nikonos connectors) Nauticam (M14 NIKONOS 5-PIN BULKHEAD WITH MICRO CONNECTOR ~FOR NIKON TTL CONVERTER COMPATIBLE WITH NA-D5/D500/D850 Sku: # 26074) Hugyfot (standard strobe port option for Nikon housing is Nikonos) Easydive Subal (they even make housing for your Nikon flashguns ...)
  4. Actually they don't have the Aquako lens in stock ... error in their stock management!
  5. The Aquako website is still not translated in English ... it has a proeminent "Shopping Int'l" button, which doesn't work. I was wondering wether I would try to buy the Aquako lens directly from Korea, but just found out that they have a reseller in France. http://www.plongimage.com/catalogsearch/advanced/result/?marque=190 They have the Aquako Super Macro Lens II, III and IV in stock. There is another reseller in Europe, Austrian (https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/?manufacturers_id=180) but with more expensive prices ...
  6. I never experienced a Sony camera. Sorry to hear about this poor battery and flash cycle time. Have you checked the Turtle TTL converter? they have a version for Sony, tested with the A6500. It even enables switching between TTL and Manual flash underwater ....
  7. My first housing was also a Fantasea, for a Nikon D80 (Fantasea was doing DSLR housing at that time). It was great value To come back to your TTL question, here are my thoughts based on my (limited) experience: Do I use TTL? Yes, almost always. It just works! You can use manual flash, but the exposure will be less accurate. Even if you tend to shoot subjects around the same distance, many factors impact lighting, so TTL in my experience is always better. As you start underwater photography, there are many more things that you need to focus on, than setting the right flash power manually. If you need to fine tune balance between ambiant light and the strobe light, a modern strobe like the YS-D2 has exposure compensation settings in TTL. So all taken into account, TTL from my point of view is more practical, more efficient, and gives all the level of controls that you need ... Which kind of TTL? given your set-up, I would start with optical TTL to link your A6500 to your YS-D2. You should first test the YS-D2 in DS-TTL mode, it should just work. You can test this above ground. Do you need a TTL converter? Most probably no. A TLL converter is: required when your camera do not have an integrated flash. You put the TTL converter in the camera flash shoe as you would use a wireless controler on land (in Nikon range, it would be like using the SU-800 controler) sometimes useful if your integrated flash is depleting your camera battery too quickly. While shooting under water, even though the actual lighting is performed by your strobe, your integrated flash will shoot as if it was lighting the scene. Some have found that it was depleting the camera battery too quickly. The TTL converter replaces then the integrated flash and saves your camera battery. I never had such problem with camera battery (however always used Nikon cameras). Before buying a TTL converter, you should test first your mileage with the integrated flash ... Vacuum valve? yes ... very useful, as everybody agrees. My current housing is equipped with a Leak Sentinel V3. Quite good, however changing the battery is a pain ... There is a Leak Sentinel V5, probably best option if you can get it. The battery seems much easier to change, and the LED light much more visible.
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