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About ruckusman

  • Rank
    Hermit Crab

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 550D
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite N90 Matrix
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
  • Accessories
  1. Gerard - well spotted on the port radius/diameter - I did a crude measurement of the outside and it is indeed a 6" port on the internal image forming surface. That had double benefits a now the sphere centre is located within the extension tube and coincides with a distinct line on the extension. Now that this line is visible outside the housing body itself, I can check the sphere centre co-incidence with the lenses easily. Just got to find my macro slider so I can make the measurements easily... I noticed the wobbling also - there is no o-ring on this system as yet, however I tightened the slider screws for the port locks incrementally in minute amounts till there was no more wobble even without an o-ring installed. I will likely install a schrader valve vacuum system and use a hand pump to pull vacuum. I've removed all superfluous controls because each is a potential leak source, the plugs will be 100% secure, plus they served no functional purpose not meshing with any camera controls. Triggerfish - you may be right, I may be crazy I'm borrowing a Panasonic waterproof point and shoot to test just that solution. A surf housing is going to be in the vicinity of at least $2K - not money I'd splurge on this at the moment.
  2. Hi Chris, I'm considering getting some short 316 stainless bolts with belville washers to compress the o-ring inwards to seal the holes and a thin nut on the inside. Thanks for the lens port info - I had browsed that lens port chart briefly, however you are correct my dome port is much older and already has an extension permanently attached. I will contact Ikelite and see if I can get the specs so that I can make a correlation between them., though looking at the modular port and the extension it seems it will be in the ballpark. A simple test pointing down into a pool will be my first test, so I will know more once I've done that. I've just check the 17-85, it's got the dreaded aperture ribbon cable problem and isn't worth repairing at this stage. I'll concentrate on the 10-22 for now. At the 10mm wide end I am hoping that depth of field on the virtual image below the surface and have above focused also for split shots. Minimum focus on the 10-22 is 24cm, with any luck a set focus distance will cover most of what I need and I'll use a small aperture and sharpen in post. To clarify, the waves at the end of the street can be perfectly formed, almost impossible to surf, but you can have more than overhead breaking into knee deep water. I've tried surfing it for long enough, sometimes it's a very quick trip from the top to the bottom. I haven't taken photos just for the sake of it for quite a long time, and I think it's got photographic potential from right in the impact zone, both above and below the surface. If that works out I may then venture amongst some surfers and shoot it from behind and below the waves
  3. Hi Guys, first post here, so I'll give you some background. I used to shoot professionally, film, medium and large format etc - but haven't in quite few years. D2X was he last camera body I purchased. Anyway my local beach Narrabeen has nice clear azure water on occasion with distinctive red sand but awful waves for surfing where I am. I've never dived, though I've spent many many years in the water and I suppose under it when I've got a wave on top of my head, if that counts. I've tried various gopros with stock and different rectilinear lenses - their image quality is awful, colour space is tiny and surprisingly they were not holding my highlights - so they are basically ruled out. That's the film snob in me... So I've decided to convert an Ikelite N90s housing I got for cheap - $60. It has what I suspect is an 8" diameter dome port. It needs both the port and back o-rings before it gets anywhere near water. First up it's getting an older Canon Kiss X4 (550D) inside. Reason being is that this camera was going to be thrown out and my Nikon D2X doesn't physically fit into the housing nor will it align with the centre of the port. The 550D goes surprisingly close to fitting with only a new mount plate needed to lower it approx 2mm to centre the dome port and lens optics. I may need to remove the popup flash to move the body minimally forward. I've got 3 lenses to test for optical alignment with the dome port EFS 17-85mm f4-5.6, EFS 10-22mm f3.5-4.5 and the kit lens EFS 18-55mm f3.5- 5.6 - again nothing exotic. I've got a fair understanding on what to look for with lateral chromatic aberration and will test the lenses with some tiles in a pool to see how good/bad the lineup is with the lens aperture/dome centre. Realistically though, swirling water and sand isn't going to demand much of the optics, though I don't want it looking like it was shot with a potato. After that depending on the success/failure of my ideas that may change to a 5D MkIII or similar. For simplicity I've removed all but three dials, focus/zoom and shutter and the other holes will be plugged. Now the plan is to basically put myself right in the impact zone - literally, there will be no opportunity to change setting, that will have to be achieved by going back onshore and opening the housing. There is no image preview because the housing back is black. That's why I've made housing single use shutter and possibly focus/zoom only. Almost everything will be done with a hyperfocal focus distance settings likely. So quick questions... Given that I'm going from normal air pressure to underneath waves breaking the pressure gradient will be quite severe, is it worth getting one of the vacuum devices to securely seal the housing? Does anyone know if the lens focus and zoom rings are universal between the Ikelite housings, so if I get them for these lenses they will mesh with the gears correctly? I will likely be looking for a flat port at some stage - some reading suggests they are standard across the Ikelite SLR/DSLR range - is this correct? any tips appreciated also thanks Glenn
  4. Hi Everyone, my name is Glenn and I've joined to absorb some info on housings as I'm planning to do some photos at my local beach break. It's an especially nasty break, steep gradient, shallow bank and complete closeouts. Nice clear azure water on some days with relatively distinct reddish sand. My plan is to basically be right in and underneath the impact zone and see how that looks when I'm lying on the bottom wish me luck
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