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Everything posted by jfe

  1. Hi can you contact me please, inbox message Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. PM sent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Yes this port Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Does anyone have a flip adapter for the DSLR modular port lying around taking up valuable storage space. Attached picture is only an indication of what I’m after. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Very interesting, almost looks like it’s got some ancient armor on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Darn nice pictures [emoji1305] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. You have an email sent to the above address Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks all, appreciate the feedback Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks. Had it in the tub submerged for about 24hr and dry inside, but I did remove the camera first. I think vacuum is my future, the housing doesn’t have a vacuum port yet, will this assist as a safeguard? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I’ve noticed droplets in my Ikelite housing (Canon T2i) on previous dives and put it down to condensation from the heat buildup, normal I suppose. I usually put 2 x silica packs in the housing. This past weekend I did a long dive but didn’t put the silca pack in. After the dive I noticed water in my housing, about 1-2 ml if I have to guess. I’ve put new o-rings in the day before and did 2 night dives and this particular dive was the next morning and never opened the housing. Is this something that does happen, the amount of condensate present in the housing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks for the feedback it makes sense what you’re saying about the free space and the light around the main subject. Appreciate your comments. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I recently bought my first DSLR setup, Canon T2i with Ikelite housing. I know it’s an older system but it’s all my budget allows me. Anyhow this is my first attempt with it, light is provided by a flashlight, don’t have strobe or focus light yet. Hopefully I can only improve once I get my lighting sorted. All pics taken with a 60mm lens, f5.6; 1/100; ISO 200 and edited in lightroom. Please feel free to comment what I can do to improve in all aspects, composition, exposure etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Thank you, I've also send an inquiry to Ikelite and they gave me a response, comes down to only strobes with a digital port is compatable with the Ikelite housings without the optical ports. It is not possible to use fiber optic / optical slave only strobe with the housing. Strobes which only have the optical connection is not compatable.
  14. Here is a question I don't seem to be able to find an answer for. To use the Ikelite strobes on a fibre optic cable you use the converter #4401, but what about the other way around? How do you use YS type strobes with an Ikelite TTL housing that doesn't have the option for optic cables, SLR housing? Is there a converter or can you use the same converter to work in reverse? Is there a system available to allow you to use optic cables with a Sea & Sea YS strobes on an Ikelite DSLR housing?
  15. That was truly beautiful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Have you some pics of the housing and camera body available please, even PM me if you're able. Thanks
  17. My advise, #3, but be smart about it. Myself and I believe many others have made the mistake of going compact and then upgrade to the next and the next and sit with an abundance of stuff you will never be using again and can't get rid off. It is expensive to get started on a decent system but buy smart, something that will sustain you through your learning and beyond. Mirrorless or mid-level SLR.
  18. Depending on the type of shark dive you’re doing. Baited shark dive they are up close and personal and as mentioned before you can get close to the raggies. If there are tigers around they’ll sometimes come up close and other times keep a distance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Hope someone can help me out on this one. I'm looking at buying a macro lens and in particular been looking at the Fantasea range. Here is where I get confused: what is the difference between a SharpEye lens and the UCL range? Here are the specs on each: UCL-05LF +6 Macro Lens •Description: +6 diopter close-up lens •Bezel Material: Hard anodized aluminum with black hard coating •Lens Construction: 3 groups and 4 elements •Lens Coating: AR multi layer coating •Threads: 67mm (front and rear) •Dimensions: 74 x 41.1 mm / 2.9 x 1.6 inch •Weight: 254 g / 9 oz SharpEye M67 +8 •Lens Construction: 2 groups, 2 elements •Focal Length/Diopter: 125mm / +8 (Underwater) •Features a 67mm thread mount •Lens Coating: multi AR coating + water repellent coating (outer surface) •Barrel Material: Aluminum with black anodize •Weight: 135g •Dimensions: Ø 72mm x 22.5mm (D) All I can make out is the UCL is longer and heavier, but what get me is the construction specs. What does 2 groups, 2 elements vs. 3 groups, 4 elements mean to me as the user? Is the latter a better makeup of the lens though the SharpEye has higher magnification properties? Any clarification will be appreciated.
  20. Hi, I am Hannes, diver from South Africa living in the Middle East. Learning the trade more with every dive, a little at a time and love photography of the small and unseen, they make the best subjects those shy little critters.
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