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About chimaera

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  1. I use the modelling light only when shooting with Retra snoot which I do fairly often when vis here mediocre for WA .that and having stove back and running like usual for 30 bucks Is a far cry from a new z330
  2. To finish up. I cut one side of the plastic knob off to better expose/access the broken piece still in the strobe and removed it with a pair of narrow pointy tweezers that I stuck in the plastic on either side of the stainless rod . i think the soap was helpful although I rinsed and blew it out with some air prior to removing. Switch was destroyed but threads in housing are still good . will order a switch from Alan at Reef. Thank you, Merry Christmas to you all !
  3. Thanks Chris and Kraken . ive cleaned , reassembled and tested the strobe . All good there . getting the switch out is going to be a bit more difficult as the plastic is completely broken . I think I'll have to cut off the actual switch knob plastic so I can better access the broken part that's in the grey housing and not screw up the grey housing threads . I also just found out the switches are available from Reef Photo and Video .
  4. Thanks Chris. That was initially my thought . I think exterior modeling light switch is magnetic. The plastick housing is broken exposing a stainless rod that seems to be attached to the interior . While I can see a small roll pin attached to the outboard end of the broken switch I'm not sure that removing the pin will help . Id love to hear from someone who has done it successfully It would certainly be a sweet simple solution . Bill
  5. Thanks Bill. Thats what I aim to do.currently I could do that to either of the flashes but the model light is deeper so at moment I need to get a bit further into the case to be able to see the wires to modelling light. Ive yet to figure out best way to do it .
  6. z240 modelling light button plastic has broken. Modelling light no longer turns off . i have started to take apart strobe so as to disconnect modelling light . im stuck for the moment and could use some direction on next move to free the model light module . I'm aware of the capacitors and DC voltage and have had a probe on capacitors . if anyone has had one of these apart I'd appreciate any information that would allow me to disconnect the model light so I can continue to use the strobe .
  7. Inon ufl 165-ad dome lens with neoprene cover and hard cover, Inon uwl105- ad wide angle, two stacking Inon ucl 165-ad macro lens's, Inon lens caddy for 2 ad lens's The dome lens has a few small scratches but non that effect image quality. all three others have no scratches and are in excellent condition. Ike housing in picture is not included. $750.00 for the works plus postage.Send me an Email
  8. Eagle Ray and Anthony,After reading and rereading review on the sp350 it seems to me like the shutter lag and battery life are issues with this digicam.c4jesus appears to have solved battery issues. Why exactly do you think the sp350 is a better camera than the e900?? Is it the sp350's ttl ? Please explain? The e900 appears to have much less shutter lag and the same battery pros and cons,is the e900 more difficult to handle underwater,ie button placement on Ike housing?Non ttl strobe use of Inond2000s?I have confined my camera seach to these two cameras because they both seem to have lots of underwater users ,I can only afford a point and shoot right now and will have to live with my choice for 3-5 years (Thus the endless questions and hrs spent reading and rereading reviews and forums,yes ce4jesus i have read most everything youve written on the sp350 and have appreciated all of it.)I would like to hear from more e900 users ,make an educated guess and purchase and use a camera. I have certainly progressed from the concept of purchasing the sealife 500 or sea and sea 8000 with in house gear although the sheer volume of cameras/housings /strobes /uwlens's and accessories has taken its toll on me.James( the Engineer ) started me on this Quest after my initial posting in dedicated underwater digicams.Hope the next few posts will help me clarify issues ,pick and purchase a camera and get back out there diving ,Bill
  9. Thanks to you both,I shall contact Ryan.I am now carrying this discussion on in both this forum and the dedicated underwater forum where I started and researching as best i can ,perhaps best to let the other one die and continue here.ce4jesus,your sure right about the ,mash of hash on the e900 and sp350.I have read most of them and am still confused.Regards Bill
  10. hey Anthony. Thanks for reply,I had tried Ike but no go on housing at this time for f30.I hear you on the dslr's,but I'm cash strapped right now . to the point I am considering saudios used e900 if the price is right.I think I can work out the battery thing by carrying more ,2 per dive,and hope i can work out the strobe issues. if i can't do that I shall look at the oly sp 350 and maybe a rebel dslr. any other issues with the e900 youre aware of. Which of the 2 are the easiest to operate for a man with a fear of to many buttons and options,I like diving more than fidldling about, thus a fear of dslrs. Good to hear from you Bill
  11. Saudio ,Interested in your gear ,How much ? Bill Mckinnon, bmckinn@telus.net
  12. My search for 1st camera has led me to choose between these two ,with ike housings.lots of comments on e900 re strobe,either camera will do what i want .which is easiest to use for newbie and which strobe arrangement is most functional for each. thanks bill
  13. looking for 1st digicam ,anyone using fuji f30 out there.also looking for appropriate strobe and curious whether one more atmosphere than rated for housing is pushing it. bill
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