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Alex_Mustard

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Everything posted by Alex_Mustard

  1. First of all - your shot is a great example of the classic problems of wide angle underwater. Solving these problems is something many have to go through. Please can I use your photo as an example in my presentation on this topic? The cheapest fix you have to improve the situation is to close the aperture. You should try and be at least f/11 on an APS-C camera. On full frame that needs to be f/13-f/14. Take a series of shots at f/8, f/11 and f/16 on your next dive - and you will see how the corners get better. Next up it is important that the dome is correctly positioned. Just because the lens fits behind the dome - does not mean it is correctly placed. This means using the correct port extension. Manufacturers should know this and give you the correct advise at purchase - but we so many many new lenses appearing - their advice is not always right. A poorly positioned dome port will ruin your image quality. (A dome should be positioned so that the centre of the sphere that would be made by the dome is in the same place as the lens's nodal point (the point in the lens where the light rays converge) - however, in practice it is not always easy to find out the exact position of either! So we tend to learn by testing and then sharing what port extension works best). A larger (more expensive) dome port will help too. But only if it is correctly positioned. A larger dome in the wrong position will be worse than a smaller dome in the correct position. Alex
  2. The extra money in the whole system price is quite small, so worth it. But if you can find a secondhand D7200 system, then that would be very attractive. Alex
  3. Aiming light is aligned with flash tube - although it has a wide angle beam. But I think that this will make it a very accurate guide for snoot. Optical sensor is on the back of the strobe. Alex
  4. Here is a link to the article: http://www.wetpixel.com/articles/preview-retra-strobe-by-alex-mustard Alex
  5. I am sure its optical quality is better than the 70-180mm.
  6. It is a very good lens - light and great value for money. It is not popular because it is for cropped sensor cameras only - meaning you would have to sell it if you switched to a full frame camera. For this reason most Nikon users choose the 60mm and 105mm, which can be used both on DX and FX. Here are three shots taken this year with the 85mm Nikkor: http://www.amustard.com/library/cache/40/SARD16_am-10438_750.jpg http://www.amustard.com/library/cache/40/SARD16_am-10644_750.jpg http://www.amustard.com/library/cache/40/SARD16_am-10677_750.jpg Alex
  7. Like most others here, I have not tested all the options. But I did do back to back tests of the Nikon 10-24mm and 12-24mm and found the 10-24mm to be considerably superior. I have been shooting the Sigma 10-20mm recently, but through necessity rather than choice (it is the only DX rect. wide angle we own). And with the v. big dome it performs well. Alex
  8. Don't forget that wherever you buy the book from you can use it to access these video tutorials, which I prepared to work with the content of the book: http://underwaterphotographybook.com/free-masterclass-tutorial If you log into vimeo, you can download them to watch in the field (even when on a liveaboard without internet). Alex
  9. I am hoping that they will start shipping from Amazon.com in the next few days - can someone with an order let me know when they getting a shipping notification. I am really sorry for the delay, very frustrating from my side too. Alex
  10. I would say the most likely reason is confirmed orders. I guess some customers made it worth their while. The alternative is that they know something we don't. They had a D5 before it was announced and maybe they heard something about a DF Mk2 that uses the same body. I suspect the first idea is more likely. Alex
  11. Shark Week - "the annual event where shark conservation takes two steps backwards"
  12. Yeah - that looks like classic mini-dome problems to me. Shows how expensive camera and expensive lens can all be undone by wrong dome. Alex
  13. Ideally f/13. However, if you are incorporating a beautiful sunburst in your shot - the lack of f/22 is a severe limitation. Alex
  14. Just as important is positioning the dome correctly. A big dome, slighting too far from or too close to the lens will perform worse than smaller dome. The Zen 230 as my dome of choice with this lens. Alex
  15. Be aware that you can't close the lens past f/16. There is no f/22. Alex
  16. Depends on the time of year and also what subjects you want to shoot. I prefer the northern route that takes in Ras Mohammed and famous wrecks. I usually do that twice a year (summer) and then do Brothers/Daedalus/St Johns once a year (autumn/spring). Alex
  17. It is going to depend on how much you move your strobes! Old clamps still work - they are just not as nice as new ones! I'd also add that I thought I was happy with my clamps until I put new one on. Arms last forever - just get new o-rings every few years. But new clamps are always a pleasure to use. Alex
  18. I use Nauticam one and Inon ones The Nauticam ones are big and easy to use. The Inon ones are really light and compact for travel. I tend to change my clamps every 400-500 dives. Alex
  19. You can also recreate this effect in Photoshop - should you wish. Start with a wide angle photo (which does not need to be fisheye). Best with a central subject. Use Spherise filter to make the circle (selecting just a square for that layer first). For the background just crop and the expand and blur. Not as much fun. But better image quality! Alex
  20. As a thank you to those who have bought my book, or will buy it in the future, I have shared two Tutorial Talks that cover lighting with strobes in underwater photography. They cover the same philosophy and some of the techniques covered in the book. The aim of the talks is to present this material in a different way, to add something to the book. The talks have less detail on how to do the techniques, but they present an overview of how these techniques fit together to produce a way to think about light and lighting underwater that is covered in the book. The videos are quite long (45 mins and 33 mins) and recorded live in London at a meeting of the British Society of Underwater Photographers (BSoUP)! If you log into Vimeo they can also be downloaded to be watched later/in the field. The videos are password protected, the passwords are random words from the book (directions to find out which word are on the linked page below the videos). You can check them out here: http://underwaterphotographybook.com/free-masterclass-tutorial Alex
  21. That's impressive. The shipping is working for most people. I have sent out 800 and a just a couple have gone missing or picked up minor damage. The rest are turning up in quickly for people. Alex
  22. Thanks Tim, I know that you'd enjoy reading it. Even though you don't need to get a copy. Alex
  23. Hi Freddie - yours sent yesterday - I sent the book - but I have not done the 100+ "I have sent your book emails” - next on the to do list. From previous books delivery time to Sweden seems about 5 working days. Alex p.s. I am sending those emails now - and for some of the Brits on the list they are getting the shipping email after the book arrives. Whoops. But I think people would rather I prioritised sending the books.
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