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pbalves

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pbalves last won the day on April 29

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About pbalves

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portugal

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Portugal
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7DmkII
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 type IV
  • Accessories
    ExtremeVision strobe arms

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hi Tim i do not know how is the optical bulkhead of Subal, but in my housing (Aquatica) I managed to have the LED in place with the help of 1 or 2 orings to grant that the LED agents fixes there without being glued. you see a picture in this topic https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67662-i-turtle-trigger-aquatica-port/ Another way is to use a glue like “chewing gum”. I have used it to have some electrical cables organized inside the housing. tesa® TACK Adhesive Putty if I am not mistaken.
  2. If you need, you can take out the oring and the metal part, pass the LED through then, insert the LED inside the bulkhead and them place the metal part and the oring in their proper places.
  3. Hi Este your problem is with arms and strobes or the housing alone? And is your rig already neutral and you have the problem of the housing turning the dome to the surface only? housing + arms and strobes negative —> floating arms. Will help To make it less negative and to give some impulsion on the back as the strobes need to be places at back housing + arms and strobes positive —> the weight trimmer as Chris suggested housing + arms and strobe neutral —> tires weight on the outside of the dome shades, on the bottom and on the top, the most advanced to the front of the shades possible. housing alone neutral —> tire weight on the shade and floating arm in between the handles/arm supports, leaning to the back
  4. Hi Owen it is the oring that secures the bulkhead in place. The metal ring cannot be taken out because it works as a spacer. It is needed so the bulkhead does not get loose. If you find a metal (or plastic) washer with the same thickness you can replace the piece. The metal piece is to work like a mirror for the internal flash of the camera to reflect the flash to the bulkhead window. A regular LED can be fitted into the bulkhead inner space (as seen on the attached picture, the top bulkhead). I have used 1 or 2 oring on the LED to to get it secure inside the bulkhead. I do not know the I-turtle trigger. But if it has a LED in an extension, it can be done. If the LED is in a fixed position and you are going to rely on the mirror…. I wouldn’t advise…. the lower bulkhead is not a bulkhead, it is a vacuum valve from Vivid Housing.
  5. I bought a pair of spare ones from https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/ I looked at the chart but they are not there at the moment. But if you contact them and ask for a spare os an Advanced Cancel Circuit (ACC) push button from Inon them might have it. later on I can send the reference on the Inon plastic bag where they came.
  6. Hi Tim The 2 black (rubber) and white (plastic) pieces are not the magnets. They are like a Allen key. I have them also due to my z240s, but to be honest I do not know what are they for. The strobe does not have a screw where they can be used.
  7. Hi Blip You can cut the fiber yourself. As you probably saw in several posts, some strobes sensors are not so sensitive and any loss of light might represent a risk for not reliable trigger of the strobe. That said, a clean cut is critical to avoid increase in the loss of light in the cable. This cutter helps to have a good cut (I do not own it, but I looked at it several times) https://www.unterwasserkamera.at/shop/catalog/en/product_info.php?info=p5975_d-d-slavekabel---fiber-optic-cable-schneide-werkzeug.html
  8. I think it is not a matter of seal. At least with Aquatica it is only a matter of changing the springs on the push buttons. You need to have springs that do not allow the buttons to get pressed in only by the external pressure. Of course the buttons will need more effort to be pressured on the surface and at shallow deeps.
  9. I Mike On the attached photo you can see my BCD (on the right) and my wife's one on the left. She has a Scubapro Lighthawk BCD (a semi-wing) it is a quite nice BCD. Note that the only hose you see in each of them is the regulator second stage (the second hose is connected to the air2). My wife has the Scubapro air 2 for octopus + inflator of the BCD, I have a similar system but from DiveRite. The air cells are inflated, but if you look closer into the picture, you can see that there are almost nothing on the BCD to be in front and on the sides of us.
  10. I recommend you to change to a wing type BCD. Much more comfortable, it allows you to have all the area on the front and side of the torso to be free of obstacles. It make you fell much less bulky. I do not agree with the the suggestion that Adam has made that a wing type BCD forces you to a more horizontal position. A wing type BCD has much more possibilities to organize the rig to allow you to have the balance underwater that suits you best. Of course that a semi-wing BCD is not so adjustable as a wing + backplate (hard or soft), but allows you to to have the torso free also. Some technical divers put weight in a upper position on the back plate. That helps them to have a more horizontal position underwater. If you use a regular weight belt you will have more freedom do adopt the position you want underwater. As is this for diving in warm waters, probably with thin suit and mono bottle I advise you to go for a small wing one (30lb - 13 kg), as it being smaller will cause lesser drag in the water. I have a DiveRite transpac with a wreck wing. I love the transpac, super confortable, but not so happy with the wing. My wing is too big and it is not a donut style. Go for a donut style! I am at this moment trying to convince myself I need to change the wing to a donut style smaller one my regulator is a Scubapro MK25 with S600 second stage. Very happy with. I use an air integrated computer (Suunto Vyper air and Suunto Vytec DS) and I have the scubapro Air2 also. This is another thing I truly advise you: an air integrated computer (whatever the brand you prefer) and the air 2. It reduced the amount of weight you need to travel with, but even more important it allows you to reduce 2 hoses around you during the dive, witch means less thinks getting in the way of you moves and the camera (plus strobes and arms).
  11. This is the way to go. I have a pair of really cheap FO cables (most probably not multifiber) and even with my z240 Inons time to time I have problems to fire them. At those moment I take out the cable and move the strobe upsidedown to allow any air bubble that is there to get out, do the same to the connection of the cables on the housing, and the firing problem is solved. The air bubble that gets inside the FO adapter is enough to reduce the amount of light that reaches the sensor till a degree it is not enough to activate the strobe. Do not forget that this might happen in both ends of the FO...
  12. You can go Manado or Bunaken in Malásia. Or Anilao, Malapascoa, Só God Bay in Philippines. Or Sangalaki, Arborek, Komodo in Indonesia
  13. Hi Northern Diver makes special measure suits. I know them for their dry suits, but I noticed in the site that they also have wetsuits. https://www.ndiver.com/mtm-diver-sizer BR Pedro Alves
  14. Not all masks are prepared to receive graduated lenses. My advise is first to find a mask than can receive graduated lenses than fits your face and get comfortable to use. Then purchase the right lenses for the mask. Several brands has masks that can receive graduated lenses and they produce the different lenses also. Another way is if the mask is ready to have lens changed, to find an optical center that makes ones. It is mode difficult than buy the graduated lens from the brand, but can be made. My wife has a mask graduated like this.
  15. I do not advise to put the o-ring inside the cap. I own a pair of Z240 Type IV, and I had a battery compartment flood on a Z240 due to that adaptation. The top of the strobe, where the cap screws in is not properly flat and due to that it does not provide a proper seal. The extra space used by the oring place inside the cap, made that the regular oring did not got properly “activated” and that resulted in a battery compartment flood in the second dive I made. Fortunately only the batteries were damaged, I cleaned properly the battery compartment and it goes on like new. Still with me, being a reliable partner. I am not a big fan of S&S, but it’s system to close the battery compartment seams more reliable that the twisting cap in Inon. Besides that I had a problem with the push button for the pre-flash, the magnet got corroded. It has not easy to solve it, but finally i have found a way to go around it (I found a screw that fits the local and I placed a magnet under that screw). It when so well that I decided to do the same to the other strobe. The human interface in INON is not the most simple and forward. It takes a lot of time to read the manual and really understand the controls of the INONs. But after understanding, it becomes easy (like everything) That said, I like my INONs. For sure I won’t be buying new ones (Inon Z330 or Retras) while mines keep the good work. I do not change 1-2 dive trips for a pair of new strobes. If anybody wants to offer me a pair of Z330 or Retras to prove I am wrong, I will accept it and will came to this thread assuming I am wrong.
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