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pbalves last won the day on September 15

pbalves had the most liked content!

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About pbalves

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    Sting Ray

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7DmkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 type IV
  • Accessories
    ExtremeVision strobe arms

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  1. What maters is that it does the job. The tripod looking pretty is not your main goal. That said, the end result looks good. At first glace it looks PRO equipment. Now it is time to put it underwater. Do not forget that if you want to use a tripod, you do not want to have a neutral buoyancy rig. You need to have it heavy to grant that the tripod stays put. Otherwise, if you have waves motion or some current, you might have difficulties to have it steady.
  2. The arm seem a little bit short. See if with the house in the tray you do have space enough to use the clamps, if it does not reduce the access to any function of the housing. David refers 200mm/5” arms, but it was a mistake. 200mm is 8”. To secure the tripod base (the arms used as tripod base) you should use 2 screws in each, to avoid the arm to rotate.
  3. First of all, I do not have any experience with that. That said, I think that electrical tool should not be used. As discussed on the thread for polishing the dome, an electrical tool can easily take out more plastic than needed in a certain point of the dome. Besides that, beeing on the internal face of the dome, the risk of that being noticed on photos is bigger. As the refractive index of water and acrilic are similar, on the external face is is not so problematic (even small scratches are not noticed if not taking photos towards the sun). But on the internal face the interface is acrilic-air, and so, everything will be much more visible (at least that’s what I think when considering the physics)
  4. Instead of plexiglass or aluminium, you can use wood to put on both sides of the base (arms). It might be easier and cheaper to find on a remote location. The screws and bolts 4mm / 5mm diameter is more than enough. 12mm / 15 mm long should be ok also. The most important is to have them in stainless steel, 316 preferably
  5. Of course another away is Aquatica technicians/commercials jump in and give you a help….. I am confident that if this tread was about Nauticam, a Nauticam responsible had already answered properly!
  6. On both my Aquatica housings the dimension os the external diameter of the focus gear and zoom gear are equal (I still own an ancient manual focus flat port, that does not appear anymore at Aquatica website) I believe that nowadays Aquatica is using the zoom control to do the manual focus on the 100mm macro lens (much better than the manual control on the flat port, as it gets a more ergonomically position and reduces increases the distance from the hand handling the control knob and the critters at the front of the port) The focus ring also changed from a 19xxx to a 49xxx reference. if someone that has a gear for Nikon or Canon for type 4 cameras and can share de external diameter and number of teeth, I believe the mistery is solved…
  7. Do you have the reference of the zoom gear you own? I noticed at My camera is Canon 7D MkII. it uses type 2 lens chart. for exemple, for Tokina 10-17 FE, it uses the 18717 zoom gear. The type 3 lens for Nikon uses the same zoom gear for that lens. The AD7000 housing uses the type 4 lens for Nikon, that for the same lens uses the 48717 zoom gear. It might be that the difference in the zoom gears is the external diameter. The dimension and number of teeth I gave you is based on the 18xxx type of gears.
  8. That why I asked for a picture of the mechanism inside. It might be that a part is misaligned.
  9. The pinion moves apart to be possible to insert large lens from the back of the housing without the need to remove the port and release the lens from the front. That usually is done by rotating the inner part of the zoom control by 90 degrees. Can you share a photo from the pinion activation from inside the housing?
  10. That why I decided to have a new handle directly over the base clamps. I have used the a double snap bolt tin the middle of the arms has an handle for more than 15 years, without problem. My old carbon arms has more than 15 years, they are from ExtremeVision (French company than produces equipment for special projects and navy, I do not know if they still exist as company), and I never had any problem. But I was always with the same though if they would fail… Now I bought some bigger float arms from china, a só I decided that I needed to improve the handle (to make it more comfortable and to use it on a safer point). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143983859917 Passing the housing to the boat it is easier the crew pick the housing by the middle of the arms because it gets higher. But after that, all the handling I make it from the base. This way it is much less effort on the arms, that results in lower risk of failure of the arm and a crash housing on the floor…. The arms on the picture are from ExtremeVision, never had problems handling by the middle (for more than 15 years), but always
  11. Hi Iwang you are not alone with this problem… It can be a problem in the trigger system (led trigger, fiber optics, strobe sensitive, strobe time of response) that is resulting in a delay of the actual strobe light release that results in a de-syncronization of the time the shutter is open and strobe duration.
  12. Hi Adan do not forget to share the link for the BW amassing video you spoke about. thanks!
  13. You need to check what is the max sync speed for you camera with strobe. Most probably it is 1/200. the black line you have is due to the movement of the curtains that is resulting that that specific area of the frame is getting less time of strobe light due to the over “speed” you can check it in the technical guide, but you can also do some tests in dry.
  14. Hi Waterpixel I know you asked Adam, but I can not refrain my opinion.... General maintenance of housings is pretty easy. A lot of folks do it themselves. The most difficult is to get some spare parts if needed. Some times even some of the o-rings it might be more difficult to find. Of course that for someone that does not fill confidence to DIY, ask for the service to a professional, is the way to go. Ship the housing to outside of your country, usually is costly (twice, as it needs to go and come back) and you needs to manage a temporary export declaration to avoid to pay taxes again when the housing is returning. If there is a local operator (not same town, but at least same country or export/import area) that has experience and access to original parts in case of need, to me it is a no-brainer: It would be the way I go.
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