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pbalves last won the day on July 28

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About pbalves

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    Wolf Eel

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7DmkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 type IV
  • Accessories
    ExtremeVision strobe arms

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  1. I would not consider the diffuser to try to match the color temperature of 2 different strobes, specially when I had only one strobe. My approach would be: If I am happy with the strobe I already have (regarding strobe power, beam spread, power control, number of cycles with fully charged batteries, usability, reliability, etc), I would buy a second strobe equal to the the one I have. And then, if I want to modify the color temperature of the strobe, I would use the same correction on both strobes. If not happy with the strobe I have, I would buy a new strobe that could tick the issues I dislike on the one I have. And I would try to sell the initial one to be able to buy a second one like the "new" strobe. On the picture I shown before it is quite visible the difference of the color cast brought to the picture between the two different strobes. I had opportunity to use Inon and Sea&Sea toghether, they are less different than Ikelite vs S&S, but even so, the few pictures I took with that mixture did not felt right to me. Ikelite DS125 4800 K Inon z240 5500 k (5400k with supplied diffuser) Sea&Sea YS-D2 5600 k Inon z330 5500 k (5400k with supplied diffuser) Retra "Original" 5400 k Retra "new ones" 4900 k Besides that, the way you control different strobes is different, which means you need to adapt your control for the right strobe differently than the way for the left strobe if you use different strobes (if they are same brand, less complicated for the control, but not necessarily the same) My history with strobes started with an Ikelite DS125. I liked that strobe, I decided to buy another one equal to it. Great strobes. Powerfull, nice beam, warm light. Very happy till a moment I was in a dive trip at Manado and we went for a full day dive to Lembeh. That day we did 4 dives at Lembeh, and on the last dive, we went for the Mandarim fish, all my collegues with smaller strobes with AA batteries were firing away on the dive and I was "P***** OFF" because my strobes were dead. They had proprietary bateries with proprietary charger, and on a full day out I was not able to recharge them. At that moment I decided that I was going to sell the Ikelite strobes and buy new ones with AA batteries to avoid to be out of power ever again (AA batteries are easier to charge, and even if not possible to charge, most probably much easier to buy new ones almost everywhere). Inon Z240 were the strobes "everybody" was using then, they were powered by AA batteries, smaller and lighter on land, so much easier to travel with, and I bought 2. The light was a little harsh compared with the Ikelite, so I use a Lee gel filter inside the soft diffusers (on both strobes) to warm it up a bit.
  2. Hi Epiplexis I do advise you to use equal strobes for your wide angle. If not possible to be equal, at lest have them from the same brand. Different strobes might have different color temperature, and if that happens, you will have problems to balance light on your pictures and to grant a pleaseant picture. Strobes from the same brand tend to have the same color temperature, but not always. Thats why I advise you to have equal strobes. If not possible to be equal strobes, at least from the same brand. I took the attached picture in a diving I was using 2 different strobes (one Ikelite 125 and one S&S Alfa 1) due to a problem I had on one of my strobes and a friend of mine borrowed me one of his strobes. The difference in color temperature between the left and the right of the photo is quite notorious.
  3. Hi Kraken. I believe none of the housing manufacturers provide to the general public the data you are asking. They want to maintain your relationship with the brand and protect the business of their dealers. on my previous housing I bought the rebuild kit when I bought the housing. when I saw it, I had the same thought you had, that a bunch of o-rings seamed a lot of money (8 years ago I paid 40€), but when I checked the price of some of the o-rings (double orings) and the price of the kit did not seamed too expensive after all. But 120, is a lot more. most probably all the push buttons will have the same oring. At the end you will not need to measure all the orings. and I agree with Chris. As you are going to dismantle all the housing, it might be better to change all. but before anything else I would try to discover where the housing is leaking…
  4. You can look for a 100mm USM Macro Canon lens (you can find cheap ones and that lens is super sharp and quick focus). It will be much easier to work with. For Macro work you need to have strobes. I would not buy extensors for that lens. Once again, almost nobody uses that lens…. If the pros do not use it…. I think there is no need to say more.
  5. I would use the zip tie… it might be too much weight (with the friction by the movement) for the plastic. it is better to get a metal pin. May be a paper clip with several turns.
  6. It seams the Á is a version with more power https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?454540-18650-vs-18650B
  7. On this tread you have lots of info
  8. Finally this week I am going to dive. As I was preparing the equipment I have been able to take some pictures from the way I transport my rig in the car and in the boat when diving locally. I use a plastic case, that have 2 lids that allow to close it. It is good for protection from the sun, but you need to keep attention to it because other people might put other stuff on top of it, but it is not stiff enough to hold easy things on top of it. I have places a sort of sponge on the bottom to increase the protection from bumps, specially on the boat. The external size of it is 54 cm x 37 cm x 33 cm
  9. Finally I was able to take a picture from my backpack with the equipment. Much easier to explain how I pack my rig for air travel. Total weight is 14.6 kg without computer and 16 kg with the computer. The backpack is a Lowepro Computer Trekker II. Besides this, I take the remaining important equipment at my wife's carry-on: 8 inch dome port, port extensions, housing handles, chargers (camera, strobe batteries, dive lamps batteries, computer), vacuum pump, focus light, 2 buoyant segment arms, Sixt buoyant collar for macro port, and 2 regulators (one and hers). If she is not going, it goes to the checked luggage.
  10. If you never want the pin out, you can solve the issue in a permanent way. 1. Remove the magnet button 2. Place a magnet cilinder in place 3. Put a screw over the magnet This is the way I have solved the problems with the magnet of the button that got corroded and was not activating properly. You need to find a magnet cylinder of the right size and the screw of the right size also. You need to be careful because magnet and screw too big might result in damage of the strobe housing. I will look for the screw parameters to post it here. .
  11. There still are some lenses that are manual focus. Besides that, for movies you might want to manage the focus manually.
  12. My advice is for you to buy Alex Mustard book “Underwater Photography Masterclass”. It is a great help for improvement and development. Alex has a great capacity to explain the different concepts and technics in a quite easy manner, with lot of examples and explanations behind the shots.
  13. Well, finally I have my housing working and in good shape. The new 3D printed gear wells arrived, also all the hardware (the damaged screw replacement, the grub screws and the drill) also arrived and I have been able to install it back in the housing. I became a fan of the gear wells 3D printing site (and other bits)! I got it quicker and cheaper than from the housing manufacturer. It is working, and back in place. The vacuum system assures that everything has been mounted back in the proper way. Now I need to go underwater. Thanks all for the support and ideas you gave me to get this sorted out.
  14. Hi imacro. My answers in front of your questions... 1) how do you pack and travel on plane with the rig? In a carry on luggage, the provided Nauticam case or some special foam protected case? Several topics on this question alone. Several strategies for travelling with the rig. I, myself, use a Lowepro Computertrek Plus with the housing and camera inside, 2 Inon Z240 strobes, Tokina 10-17 FE, Canon 100mm USM Macro, 180º viewfinder, flat port, mini dome, arms, clamps, focus light and dive computer. On my wife’s carry-on goes the 8 inch dome, the handles of the housing and the float arms, her and mine regulators, her dive computer and some other bits and bolts. Both bags weight around 14 kg…. Each…. Over weight, so quite important to keep low profile, a smile in the lips and be polite and gentle. If the bags are weighted, show them that it is photographic equipment, and prey… When my wife is not travelling with me, the equipment that does not fit my lowepro, goes on checked baggage. My checked baggage always goes quite bellow the limit (usually 17-18 kg) also so try to explain that the hand luggage is heavy but it is quite fragile and that it is not an attempt to take extra weight. If all this strategy/talk does not work, I always have with me a fisherman vest with quite big pockets to pass some equipment to the pockets and get at least the backpack under the maximum weight. After passing the control, things get back to the backpack. 2) how do you bring it to the dive boat and keep it safe esp the strobes the whole trip? To take the equipment to the boat, it depends where I am diving. When going by car, usually I use a plastic box of +- 60 cm x 40 cm x 50 cm with lid. I found it easier to use than cooler bag. That plastic box also can be used as a personnel rinse tank. I also use that box to have the equipment stored at home. So, multi purpose plastic box. When abroad, I use the handle to transport the rig, and usually a towel from the resort to put the rig on it and cover it to protect it from the sun. Always with the neoprene cover on the port. For the MiniDome I use a plastic box to protect it as the neoprene cover does not stay in place easily. 3) how do you carry it into the water? Get into the water first and ask someone to hand it to you after? The key here is the handle/lanyard. It is a great tool for transport the housing (as a handle or to take the housing at shoulder). And most important an easy and visual way to receive the housing from the boat man and to give it back in the end of the dive. You should explain to the boat man how do you want him to pass you the housing and how should he grab the housing. This is critical to avoid the housing being handled on the wrong accessories like fiber optics and cables. There are people that prefers to take the neoprene caps with them on the dive, I myself prefer to leave it on the boat, to be one less thing being hanging around on the dive. So, I prepare myself for diving, with my housing close to me (being careful to not damage it), and when ready I pick up my housing, take out the neoprene cap, and I make signal to the boat man I am ready to jump, so he can come to me, and receive the housing to be able to pass it back to me after I jump. I always ask the boat man to pass the rig to me with the port facing outwards the boat to avoid damaging the port against the boat. When passing the rig to the boat man after the dive, I always have the same awareness: to pass it to him with the port facing outwards the boat. Besides to use the handle on the hand or on the shoulder, I use it too to clip the housing to my BCD. I clip it on a lower part of the housing handle, because that way the handle/lanyard does not get in front of the regulator, mask sand is not in the way to maneuver/positioning the strobes or in front of the different commands of the housing. (see pictures attached) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143983859917 4) do you throw the rig into the gear water bucket in between dives? I’m concerned others will throw their gears in and may damage my rig. Never, never, never drop the housing in the rinser tank and go away. Put the housing (with the lens cover on) on the clean water and do several pushes on all the buttons, and than take the housing from the bucket and place it in a safe place covered by a towel to protect it from the sun in between dives. If you do not have clean water (not salty), avoid to have the housing getting dry. In that case drop sea water over it 15 to 15 minutes (and keep the housing protected) to avoid the salty water to dry in the housing and get salt crystals formed close to the o-rings, that might increase the risk of flood. But the best is always to have the housing rinsed in plain water. 5) has anyone slipped and dropped their rig while they are on the water surface? Does it actually floaty enough for you to catch it? Having the housing always clipped to you makes this risk nonexistent. The only moment I do not have the housing clipped to me is when receiving it from the boatman or at the end of the dive to pass it to the boatman. But even on these moments the risk is nonexistent, as the housing is only slightly negative or neutral. If I leave the housing, it does not sinks quickly.
  15. Well, cheap stuff is always a lottery. You can get something that is a perfect fit for your purpose, but you can get something that does not fill nice, strong, well done. The best thing those cheap accessories have is that if you do not like then, you do not loose too much. but I would say it is not the most important thing in your question. You are looking for a head support for the go pro. I think it is not the best support for nice and steady clips. Besides that, it seams to me that it can be easily lost during a dive.
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