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pbalves

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pbalves last won the day on February 6 2020

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About pbalves

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portugal

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Portugal
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7DmkII
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 type IV
  • Accessories
    ExtremeVision strobe arms
  1. hi Namton If this is your first attempt in underwater photography, congratulation! Extremely good photos for first time underwater photography! The advices of TimG and Hyp are right. I do not know if you are working on manual or automatic exposure in the camera. Manual gives you more control, specially in wideangle. Measure the light in the middle water to settle the speed and aperture then adjust the strobes accordingly. Otherwise your photos will look like dusk time photos (the blue too dark) but as said, very well done for first attempt!
  2. Hi Megafauna For hat I read, the S&S do not have the most sensitive optical sensor. For any reason with the the 5D/Nauticam it is not arriving enought light tithe sensor of the strobe. as it is working with other cameras, assuming that the test was made with the same cable, that means that the trigger (if different from the other system that is working) and alignment with the housing window has more light loss than on the other system. are you sure the optical cable is a multifiber one? S&S strobes need good quality optical fiber cables. if the cable is not “extra” quality, due to the bigger loss in the trigger/alignment on the Nauticam, the light reaching the strobe is not enough, although it is enough in the other system (although it might be on the limit) Just to give you an exemple, I have INON Z240 strobes and cheap Chinese FO cables, and time to time I have problems underwater due to the air bubble that get stuck in the socket where the cables are connected (some time on the housing, other times on the strobe). I need to take out the cable underwater, free any air inside the sockets and connect the cable again and problem solved. But in my case they work fine out-of-water. This does not seams the problem you have, but it is a representation of how easy is to have the link “broken”. at the beginning, when I started using a led trigger, I had problems getting the led of the trigger properly aligned inside the housing socket. that was resulting in not getting enough light into the cable (proper alignment of the led and the cable is quite important, as it can be responsible for a big loss of light)
  3. For sale Aquatica A40D Underwater Housing for Canon 40D and Canon 50D, two Nikonos bulkhead, good condition, one owner, minor cosmetic scuffs due to normal wear. Never flooded, perfect maintenance, fresh water rinsed after every dive. Includes Aquatica moisture alarm (no battery) Just add strobes, lens, and port. Includes Housing Aquatica A40D with dual Nikonos bulkhead Handles Moisture alarm 600€ + shiping costs Item posted also on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/143680181555)
  4. I have several equipment to sell Pack 1: Subal Housing Miniflex N9B for Nikon F90 Nikon F90 Hoya +2 62mm diopter Some other bits and bolts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subal-Miniflex-N9B-for-Nikon-F90-Nikon-F90-some-other-accessories/143679535430 Pack 2: Subal Dome Port 170 mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subal-dome-port-170-mm/143679543949 Pack 3: Subal Dome Port DP-54B - 100mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143679549946 Pack 4: Sea and Sea YS-60 TTL/N Underwater Strobe / Flash https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143679568684 Pack 5: Wet Diopter 1 for SLR housing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143680045596 Pack 6: Single Sync cord Ikelite to Nikonos (#4104-31) - Non TTL https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143679740715 Pack 7: Pelicase 1520 without foam and with air valve https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143679558497
  5. 4th dive of the day, I “used” 180 strobe flash’s on the previous dives, of the 450 plus strobe flash’s. I still have 270 flash’s at half power. And probably I will want to reduce the strobe power to allow faster recicle times, which means even more flash triggers. Besides that, usually the 4th dive is a night dive, which means new batteries. Completely agree with the small amount of grease. It is only to get the oring shiny. The grease does not seal. It is there only to avoid the oring to be stressed/damaged due to the friction of the oring with the surfaces it seals against. I do not recommend to put grease on the cap itself. The oring works against the cap but algo against the groove of the oring. The debries/sand/small particles most probably goes inside the oring groove. Putting the grease directly into the oring with the oring inside the groove is not the proper way to minimize risk. In my opinion it increases the risk of leakage.
  6. Inon z240, with envelop batteries has +- 240 flash capacity. Usually I am using my Inon on 50% power (easier to change to other power settings) what makes a capacity of +- 450 flash’s on a full charge of eneloop. Usualy I change the batteries 1 per diving day (3-4 dives), as on average I take 50-60 photos per dive. and when charging the batteries I see that usually I have already 2 or 3 bars lit of 4 bars (totally charged) on the individual battery status of the charger. The exception is if I go for a night dive, them I put a new set of batteries on the strobes, as I use them as dive lamp and I want to grant that I have enough power if something goes wrong. I do not lube the o-ring every time I change battery. It depends on 2 independent factors: - if last dive was in an area with thin sand/mud and I have been close to the bottom, I clean the groove, the cap and wash and lube the o-ring (enough grease to make it shiny). - If unscrewing or screwing the cap I feel it is not smooth Or feel it “grabby”, I do the procedure explained on previous point i do not lube the inner face of the cap because the prong also need to “work” on the oring groove, and lubing the oring directly is the only way to grant that None of the surface will be missing grease and do not cause any malfunction of the oring due to the cap screwing. besides that is the write way to validate if the oring is on proper conditions (no cuts, no debris, etc)
  7. Does anybody uses the product "Silicone Pump from McNett" for care of the button o-rings (as stated on the "Post-Dive Maintenance" section off the article http://www.divephotoguide.com/getting-started-with-underwater-photography/underwater-camera-maintenance/)? How does it compare with the "D&D Top Secret O-Ring Fluid" that Wolfgang uses?
  8. Hi Soaking and pushing several times all the push buttons. Is is critical to grant the flow of the still water through the button grove and the o-ring. Grant the all the air that might be "stucked" in the button groove gets out and still water gets into it.
  9. Another way to use the sun burst is to place it behind a subject to reduce/eliminate/avoid the super bright area that result in a huge brightness range and make it more difficult for the camera to cope with. Of course it is easier with a stationary subject (like a a coral head, an hangover, soft coral, a spirograph) but can also be done with big fish (like a whaleshark, a mantaray, any other big fish, or a fish ball,. You can use also a boat or a canoe. Its a way to place the sun inside but outside the frame .
  10. You said it is a dual cable, so it is connected to only one optical strobe connector in the housing. Do you have another optical strobe connector on the housing to test? It might be a misaligned LED on the optical connector on the housing. But more probably is a cable problem....
  11. Hi. I had several Suunto’s. Always with air integrated. Initially consoles, now wrist computers with wireless air integration. First one was a Suunto Favor Air. Then a Suunto Cobra. My wife started diving, she kept my cobra and I bought a Suunto Vytec DS. And then I decided to offer her a wireless one, She said she likes mine, so I gave her mine and bought the Suunto D9 for me And 2 years ago I was struggling to read the small numbers underwater and decided to sell the D9 and bought a Suunto Vyper Novo. I offered it to my wife and get mine back but she said she wants to keep the Suunto Vytec DS. Regarding another gauge, I do not use it. The decision to go wireless was to reduce the number of hoses. I decided to have all the rig the slim possible. If is loose connection with the tank, I end the dive. All these years I never had a dive aborted due to problems on the connection with the transmitter. Indeed I know some people that struggles a bit with the air transmitter of Suunto, but I think it’s a bit of lack of pacience and not understanding/knowing properly the drill to do the connection.
  12. Hi Clockdive You need to check what is the version of your Z240. The optical sensor shape Type 4 is different from Type 1, 2 and 3. You need to buy the right adapter. For type 1 to 3: http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-inon-strobe-older-slave-sensor-FA-SS2IN.html?search=inon adapter&category_id=64 For type 4: http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-inon-strobes-FA-SS2IN4.html?search=inon adapter&category_id=64 On the label of the strobe it states which version it is. BR Pedro Alves
  13. Hi Julian The mini dome port usually are 100mm diameter (or 4"). Full frame sensors (due to smaller deep of field) usually are more prone to present soft corner on small domes. Mini Dome works well with the cropped sensor and the Tokina 10-17 FE (or other fish eyes for cooped sensor), specially with the extender 1.4. To use it in a Full Frame you need to stop down the aperture to minimize the soft corners, and that might reduce the flexibility to find the right setting for the picture. If you want to do split shots, with the mini dome is not possible (the virtual image inside the dome gets too close and you do not have enough deep of field to have in focus the underwater part and the over-the-water).
  14. Hi Tursiops I accept the critic. The thrush is I never used;/tested a triple clamp underwater. But considering the physics, this configuration should be easy to manouver underwater (or in land). When you open the triple clamp on one handle, only the strobe arm will move (the float one is secured by the other side), the behavior should be more or less like the regular clamp with the strobe arm (slightly less because the clamp won’t be able to move freely) And the focus light does not need a lot of movement. I am not able to test it, as I only have 1 triple clamp (and never used as said before). some days ago I read here an interesting post about someone that is using a “triangle” arm structure as suggested on the scheme for using the strobe with a snoot (instead the focus light) the drawback I see is that the rig gets too bulky, and with a tall structure over the housing, that might bring some difficulties on small spaces. we can not have it all....
  15. If one float arm is not enough, you can use 2, with 3 triple clamps as on the attached schem. if you not have triple clamp but you have an extra regular clamp, you can place the float arm in between the central ball and the focus light
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