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pbalves last won the day on December 28 2021

pbalves had the most liked content!

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About pbalves

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    Sting Ray

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7DmkII
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 type IV
  • Accessories
    ExtremeVision strobe arms

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  1. Do not forget to add the fiber optic cable (pair) and flash trigger. And of course a new handbag or backpack for packing the rig on travels.
  2. If you have access to a pachymeter, you can make the mesurement of the diameter and the section of the oring
  3. Hi Tim There is a movie saga called "Mission Impossible". It is more feasible and realistic than an underwater photographer to be able to cope with the weight regulation for cabin bag. That said, you can decide go over the weight limit and use your best smile and coolness to go under-the-radar through the checkpoints. You can also try to do what I have read in this forum (and once saw it in an airport, but not in my flight) to take the camera rig mounted and taking it in your hand. It is a camera, you are allowed to take a camera. At first it seams a lit bit crazy and risky, but if we think about it, it is not much more risky than handling the equipment to the dive boat. It is not the most comfortable way to transport it, but the truth is that with the weight of the system, only a trolley can make it comfortable, but 15-16 kg total weight on the trolley is the "price"... Another way is to get a coat/vest with big pockets that allows you to fit the heavy stuff on the pockets. I believe the flight company can complain on what bags you are taking, but not on what you are dressing.... This vests are not cheap, but they look sturdy and have big pockets https://thevestguy.com/collections/photography-vests/products/500262-the-traveler-photo-vest I myself use a backpack, overweight, and a fishing vest inside if for some reason I need to reduce the weight of the backpack, I pass the housing + camera + strobes to the 2 big pockets of the vest... Not a TheVestGuy one...
  4. For sure that if the handle is there, the levers are more protected. By that argument, you can dive with the housing without a handle, but you cannot use it with a lever pinion damaged, if the housing becomes not sealable. If the lever get broken but the pinion remains ok, it might be easier to find a workaround to be able to use it in the field. But the handles seems to me that are a fragile point on the housings. And it is more difficult to "embrace" the housing with "soft" protection with the handles on. Without the handles the housing becomes a more uniform "brick" an make it easier to protect it (even granting more protection on the area of the levers). Of course that if you are transporting it in a hard case with foam inside, wither way it is easy to have the housing secure (with or without handles).
  5. Hi Tim Strobes are much more fragile than the housing, both the shell and also the internal eletronics. Bumps and not the best for the eletronics. Of course that if you use a sturdy case type Pelicase with internal foam, you can transport it in a more protected way. The internal foam of the hard cases like Pelicase are a better protection than the usual stuff used in a general purpose suitcase (clothes, wetsuits and so on), because all the volume is occupied and a good amount of foam in between every part of the equipment.
  6. I do not know if the is an off-the-shelf solution for an ikelite housing (and that would need to be for the specific housing you own), but you can take advantage of the acrylic housing (when I owned an Ikelite it was the full house that was clear, now it is only the backdoor). Most probably you need to go the macgyver route... I do not know your camera / housing, and if it is as my old one, with the the camera mounted directly on a tray fixed to the rear door, and also if it has space to have the let trigger, but if so, you can route the led to the back and use a system like the small housings to connect a fibre optic. http://www.divervision.com/strobes/strobe-accessories/deeproof-fixed-plate-with-velcro-for-dual-strobe-fpv2?sort=p.price&order=ASC&limit=100
  7. Hi Nicool With this 2 options I would go with the hard shell. The housing is quite sturdy (if an aluminium one), specially if you takeout the handles. Dismantle the handles, keep the housing closed, use food tappeware to protect the ports and domes (special attention to protect the dome port, keep them with the neoprene covers and ), and use you cloth, towels, wetsuit, neoprene boots / sock and rubber fins to avoid direct contact of the housings and the ports and to give them a soft shell. Be careful with metal d-rings form the bcd or other equipment inside the suitcase to avoid cosmetic damage to the housings. The strobes take them with you on the hand-luggage. Do not send them in the checked-in luggage! Avoid empty areas inside the suitcase to grant that the equipment you put there does not moves around during the travel, increasing the risk for damages.
  8. You can adapt a led trigger to activate the strobes.
  9. If you are thinking about the “spaghetti” type of buoy, they do not work on the deep. You need a material that does not change volume till the depths you dive you can use fisher net buoys. Also cheap, and strong enough to work on diving depths. https://www.leefisherfishing.com/collections/floats-buoys/products/can-shaped-float
  10. I think this is not good to do the transport by itself (I believe it is not strong/secure enough, the handle would not be able to hold all the weight). But it is a solution do transport the equipment inside a “regular” case with the equipment better protected and organized.
  11. After a dive trip, I take out the main o-ring for the housing and the extensions and ports, wash them with water and soap, rinse them, let them dry and lube them with the grease supplied by the brand (small amount, only to get them shiny). I clean the groove on the housing/extensions/ports and then, I put the o-rings back in place. The housing stays closed, but without any port, to grant that there is no vacuum inside (for instance in the airplane), although nowadays, with housings with vacuum system, it is not a big problem anymore as opening the vacuum valve the housing can be equalized and easily opened (of course, if you have a vacuum system installed). if possible, I do this even before traveling home. And when done, at home I do not touch the housing no more. Straight to “storage”. I believe that air and UV light do more damage to the o-ring than to be in place…. If to have the o-rings in place when storage were a problem, all the buttons o-rings should be replaced between diving seasons/travels…. Nevertheless, I also believe that if you take out the o-rings, clean them, lightly lube them and keep them inside a plastic bag in a dark place (out of daylight) it won’t do any harm.
  12. Hi Tim There is another path you can go. Find someone that has expertise enough to install on your iMac the Open Core that Adam installed on his Mac. Even if you pay 100 bucks for the service, if at the end you can use your computer with newer software, you gave yourself another dive trip. If it does not work (not so probable if the expert you find is really an expert), you solve it going to an Apple Store and buy a new model. At the end you still are on the Apple ecosystem (almost)….
  13. Hi Phil. My mistake. I have that doubt and assumed that was what Wolfgang was asking. And regarding my question (if the reflective shade makes brighter area in any part of the cone ok light), do you know? Thanks.
  14. I believe Wolfgang was asking if the use of the shade (the new one, with internal reflection) does change the quality of the light of the strobe (for instance if it makes the light area uneven)
  15. Just to spice the discussion, is this different than baiting, shark feeding, have the lion fish following and using the diver/photographer lights on the night dives for hunting, etc.?
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