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pbalves

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Everything posted by pbalves

  1. What maters is that it does the job. The tripod looking pretty is not your main goal. That said, the end result looks good. At first glace it looks PRO equipment. Now it is time to put it underwater. Do not forget that if you want to use a tripod, you do not want to have a neutral buoyancy rig. You need to have it heavy to grant that the tripod stays put. Otherwise, if you have waves motion or some current, you might have difficulties to have it steady.
  2. The arm seem a little bit short. See if with the house in the tray you do have space enough to use the clamps, if it does not reduce the access to any function of the housing. David refers 200mm/5” arms, but it was a mistake. 200mm is 8”. To secure the tripod base (the arms used as tripod base) you should use 2 screws in each, to avoid the arm to rotate.
  3. First of all, I do not have any experience with that. That said, I think that electrical tool should not be used. As discussed on the thread for polishing the dome, an electrical tool can easily take out more plastic than needed in a certain point of the dome. Besides that, beeing on the internal face of the dome, the risk of that being noticed on photos is bigger. As the refractive index of water and acrilic are similar, on the external face is is not so problematic (even small scratches are not noticed if not taking photos towards the sun). But on the internal face the interface is acrilic-air, and so, everything will be much more visible (at least that’s what I think when considering the physics)
  4. Instead of plexiglass or aluminium, you can use wood to put on both sides of the base (arms). It might be easier and cheaper to find on a remote location. The screws and bolts 4mm / 5mm diameter is more than enough. 12mm / 15 mm long should be ok also. The most important is to have them in stainless steel, 316 preferably
  5. Of course another away is Aquatica technicians/commercials jump in and give you a help….. I am confident that if this tread was about Nauticam, a Nauticam responsible had already answered properly!
  6. On both my Aquatica housings the dimension os the external diameter of the focus gear and zoom gear are equal (I still own an ancient manual focus flat port, that does not appear anymore at Aquatica website) I believe that nowadays Aquatica is using the zoom control to do the manual focus on the 100mm macro lens (much better than the manual control on the flat port, as it gets a more ergonomically position and reduces increases the distance from the hand handling the control knob and the critters at the front of the port) The focus ring also changed from a 19xxx to a 49xxx reference. if someone that has a gear for Nikon or Canon for type 4 cameras and can share de external diameter and number of teeth, I believe the mistery is solved…
  7. Do you have the reference of the zoom gear you own? I noticed at My camera is Canon 7D MkII. it uses type 2 lens chart. for exemple, for Tokina 10-17 FE, it uses the 18717 zoom gear. The type 3 lens for Nikon uses the same zoom gear for that lens. The AD7000 housing uses the type 4 lens for Nikon, that for the same lens uses the 48717 zoom gear. It might be that the difference in the zoom gears is the external diameter. The dimension and number of teeth I gave you is based on the 18xxx type of gears.
  8. That why I asked for a picture of the mechanism inside. It might be that a part is misaligned.
  9. The pinion moves apart to be possible to insert large lens from the back of the housing without the need to remove the port and release the lens from the front. That usually is done by rotating the inner part of the zoom control by 90 degrees. Can you share a photo from the pinion activation from inside the housing?
  10. That why I decided to have a new handle directly over the base clamps. I have used the a double snap bolt tin the middle of the arms has an handle for more than 15 years, without problem. My old carbon arms has more than 15 years, they are from ExtremeVision (French company than produces equipment for special projects and navy, I do not know if they still exist as company), and I never had any problem. But I was always with the same though if they would fail… Now I bought some bigger float arms from china, a só I decided that I needed to improve the handle (to make it more comfortable and to use it on a safer point). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143983859917 Passing the housing to the boat it is easier the crew pick the housing by the middle of the arms because it gets higher. But after that, all the handling I make it from the base. This way it is much less effort on the arms, that results in lower risk of failure of the arm and a crash housing on the floor…. The arms on the picture are from ExtremeVision, never had problems handling by the middle (for more than 15 years), but always
  11. Hi Iwang you are not alone with this problem… It can be a problem in the trigger system (led trigger, fiber optics, strobe sensitive, strobe time of response) that is resulting in a delay of the actual strobe light release that results in a de-syncronization of the time the shutter is open and strobe duration.
  12. Hi Adan do not forget to share the link for the BW amassing video you spoke about. thanks!
  13. You need to check what is the max sync speed for you camera with strobe. Most probably it is 1/200. the black line you have is due to the movement of the curtains that is resulting that that specific area of the frame is getting less time of strobe light due to the over “speed” you can check it in the technical guide, but you can also do some tests in dry.
  14. Hi Waterpixel I know you asked Adam, but I can not refrain my opinion.... General maintenance of housings is pretty easy. A lot of folks do it themselves. The most difficult is to get some spare parts if needed. Some times even some of the o-rings it might be more difficult to find. Of course that for someone that does not fill confidence to DIY, ask for the service to a professional, is the way to go. Ship the housing to outside of your country, usually is costly (twice, as it needs to go and come back) and you needs to manage a temporary export declaration to avoid to pay taxes again when the housing is returning. If there is a local operator (not same town, but at least same country or export/import area) that has experience and access to original parts in case of need, to me it is a no-brainer: It would be the way I go.
  15. Aquatica housings can be easily upgraded to 130 m rated. It is only needed to change the springs of the push buttons. Aquatica has kit for that (or when buying new you can have it directly rated to 130 m deep without any extra cost). As Aquatica has this kit, I believe other brands also has it. The housing is quite sturdy to be able to handle those pressures. The only issue is that the springs being stiffer to avoid the push buttons to be pressed only by the external pressure, means that to use the housing in not so deep dives or at surface, you need to make much more effort on the push button, which makes it more unconfortable to use on "regular" dives. The same applies to any other housing rated at same deep.
  16. "very small gobies (...) very skittish" The way to go is with a DSLR with a cropped sensor and a 100/105 mm macro lens as Chris said. You can also add a wetdiopter to gain some more magnification. Do not forget to join a strobe. As your main interest is macro ID Shots, it might be interesting to have TTL capabilities in the trigger and the strobe, as a way to make it easier the photo taking process. Do not forget you are diving quite deep, and having a possibility to make the photographing process easier has clear benefits.
  17. I can not help you with that as I do not have access to a Nauticam housing. if you can measure it with a Pachymeter and the a picture to the thread you are able to have your answer
  18. You can place an Nauticam do sea and sea adapter and then use an Inon rubber bush or a sea and sea connector https://www.scubastore.com/mergulho/weefine-adaptador-de-cabo-de-fibra-sea---sea-to-nauticam/138236380/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=13733622&country=pt&gclid=CjwKCAjw9uKIBhA8EiwAYPUS3Fy53C1kAl0nI2fAoKk7tpVDIciIJ5y1otLynpgsJGFPcZskdTotTxoCdTMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-nauticam-housings-FA-SS2NA.html http://www.divervision.com/inon-rubber-bush-type-l-for-dual-fiber-optics-456212143784.html http://www.divervision.com/inon-double-hole-rubber-bush-for-fiber-optics-456212143565
  19. I would go for something more like the ULCS part https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/ultralight-ba-aqw-aquatica-adapter https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1596550-REG/ultralight_ba_aqw_base_adapter_with_ball.html http://www.divervision.com/ultralight-ba-aqw-housing-handles-adapter-wide-ba-aqw
  20. I have solved my issue with a plastic food container from IKEA, a glued rubber/foam/neoprene inside, 4 small holes and a bit of bungee on 2 loops to maintain it in place.
  21. Also the possibility to buy by the meter is not viable for Europe. You buy 5 m, and the ask for 150 USD for shipping. I think that this idea of group purchase is interesting but it is not so easy to operate due to the big amount of fiber it represents, the big number of different buyers it is needed and after that the process of dividing it and shipping a big amount of packaged all around the world. And even for small value packages since last July, it is much more difficult to ship it into Europe due to the VAT new legislation.
  22. Hi Diggy This is not the same fiber. THis has only 19 cores, the "good one" has 613 cores.
  23. People might be talking about the care products brand (www.dove.com).
  24. I would not consider the diffuser to try to match the color temperature of 2 different strobes, specially when I had only one strobe. My approach would be: If I am happy with the strobe I already have (regarding strobe power, beam spread, power control, number of cycles with fully charged batteries, usability, reliability, etc), I would buy a second strobe equal to the the one I have. And then, if I want to modify the color temperature of the strobe, I would use the same correction on both strobes. If not happy with the strobe I have, I would buy a new strobe that could tick the issues I dislike on the one I have. And I would try to sell the initial one to be able to buy a second one like the "new" strobe. On the picture I shown before it is quite visible the difference of the color cast brought to the picture between the two different strobes. I had opportunity to use Inon and Sea&Sea toghether, they are less different than Ikelite vs S&S, but even so, the few pictures I took with that mixture did not felt right to me. Ikelite DS125 4800 K Inon z240 5500 k (5400k with supplied diffuser) Sea&Sea YS-D2 5600 k Inon z330 5500 k (5400k with supplied diffuser) Retra "Original" 5400 k Retra "new ones" 4900 k Besides that, the way you control different strobes is different, which means you need to adapt your control for the right strobe differently than the way for the left strobe if you use different strobes (if they are same brand, less complicated for the control, but not necessarily the same) My history with strobes started with an Ikelite DS125. I liked that strobe, I decided to buy another one equal to it. Great strobes. Powerfull, nice beam, warm light. Very happy till a moment I was in a dive trip at Manado and we went for a full day dive to Lembeh. That day we did 4 dives at Lembeh, and on the last dive, we went for the Mandarim fish, all my collegues with smaller strobes with AA batteries were firing away on the dive and I was "P***** OFF" because my strobes were dead. They had proprietary bateries with proprietary charger, and on a full day out I was not able to recharge them. At that moment I decided that I was going to sell the Ikelite strobes and buy new ones with AA batteries to avoid to be out of power ever again (AA batteries are easier to charge, and even if not possible to charge, most probably much easier to buy new ones almost everywhere). Inon Z240 were the strobes "everybody" was using then, they were powered by AA batteries, smaller and lighter on land, so much easier to travel with, and I bought 2. The light was a little harsh compared with the Ikelite, so I use a Lee gel filter inside the soft diffusers (on both strobes) to warm it up a bit.
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