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Everything posted by pbalves

  1. Does anybody uses the product "Silicone Pump from McNett" for care of the button o-rings (as stated on the "Post-Dive Maintenance" section off the article http://www.divephotoguide.com/getting-started-with-underwater-photography/underwater-camera-maintenance/)? How does it compare with the "D&D Top Secret O-Ring Fluid" that Wolfgang uses?
  2. Hi Soaking and pushing several times all the push buttons. Is is critical to grant the flow of the still water through the button grove and the o-ring. Grant the all the air that might be "stucked" in the button groove gets out and still water gets into it.
  3. Another way to use the sun burst is to place it behind a subject to reduce/eliminate/avoid the super bright area that result in a huge brightness range and make it more difficult for the camera to cope with. Of course it is easier with a stationary subject (like a a coral head, an hangover, soft coral, a spirograph) but can also be done with big fish (like a whaleshark, a mantaray, any other big fish, or a fish ball,. You can use also a boat or a canoe. Its a way to place the sun inside but outside the frame .
  4. You said it is a dual cable, so it is connected to only one optical strobe connector in the housing. Do you have another optical strobe connector on the housing to test? It might be a misaligned LED on the optical connector on the housing. But more probably is a cable problem....
  5. Hi. I had several Suunto’s. Always with air integrated. Initially consoles, now wrist computers with wireless air integration. First one was a Suunto Favor Air. Then a Suunto Cobra. My wife started diving, she kept my cobra and I bought a Suunto Vytec DS. And then I decided to offer her a wireless one, She said she likes mine, so I gave her mine and bought the Suunto D9 for me And 2 years ago I was struggling to read the small numbers underwater and decided to sell the D9 and bought a Suunto Vyper Novo. I offered it to my wife and get mine back but she said she wants to keep the Suunto Vytec DS. Regarding another gauge, I do not use it. The decision to go wireless was to reduce the number of hoses. I decided to have all the rig the slim possible. If is loose connection with the tank, I end the dive. All these years I never had a dive aborted due to problems on the connection with the transmitter. Indeed I know some people that struggles a bit with the air transmitter of Suunto, but I think it’s a bit of lack of pacience and not understanding/knowing properly the drill to do the connection.
  6. Hi Clockdive You need to check what is the version of your Z240. The optical sensor shape Type 4 is different from Type 1, 2 and 3. You need to buy the right adapter. For type 1 to 3: http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-inon-strobe-older-slave-sensor-FA-SS2IN.html?search=inon adapter&category_id=64 For type 4: http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-inon-strobes-FA-SS2IN4.html?search=inon adapter&category_id=64 On the label of the strobe it states which version it is. BR Pedro Alves
  7. Hi Julian The mini dome port usually are 100mm diameter (or 4"). Full frame sensors (due to smaller deep of field) usually are more prone to present soft corner on small domes. Mini Dome works well with the cropped sensor and the Tokina 10-17 FE (or other fish eyes for cooped sensor), specially with the extender 1.4. To use it in a Full Frame you need to stop down the aperture to minimize the soft corners, and that might reduce the flexibility to find the right setting for the picture. If you want to do split shots, with the mini dome is not possible (the virtual image inside the dome gets too close and you do not have enough deep of field to have in focus the underwater part and the over-the-water).
  8. Hi Tursiops I accept the critic. The thrush is I never used;/tested a triple clamp underwater. But considering the physics, this configuration should be easy to manouver underwater (or in land). When you open the triple clamp on one handle, only the strobe arm will move (the float one is secured by the other side), the behavior should be more or less like the regular clamp with the strobe arm (slightly less because the clamp won’t be able to move freely) And the focus light does not need a lot of movement. I am not able to test it, as I only have 1 triple clamp (and never used as said before). some days ago I read here an interesting post about someone that is using a “triangle” arm structure as suggested on the scheme for using the strobe with a snoot (instead the focus light) the drawback I see is that the rig gets too bulky, and with a tall structure over the housing, that might bring some difficulties on small spaces. we can not have it all....
  9. If one float arm is not enough, you can use 2, with 3 triple clamps as on the attached schem. if you not have triple clamp but you have an extra regular clamp, you can place the float arm in between the central ball and the focus light
  10. I do not know if the triple clamp with the focus light and the float arm solution is suitable for a regular ULCS arm and stix jumbo, as one end is not blocked (the stick might get loose and be lost during the dive?). But for sure, a float arm is possible. some years ago Aquatica had a float device that was to be used on the central ball, (the same as an floating arm, but more interesting as the fixation was on the middle instead of being in the extremes as the floating arm)
  11. Hi Tim I have an Aquatica housing with aquatica flat port. I have the collar from stix. It works fine. It allows enough space to manouver the manual focus knob. The picture from Gudge is pretty clear about that. The squares on the background shows more than 8 cm free space. You just need place it with the Velcro orientated with the knob. (See also the photo of Algwyn). Sorry I do not have a photo of my system with me. The collar being in the port is really a help exauste it avoids the housing to twist your wrists with the heavy front. (It is not only a matter of the housing being neutral, it is also important to have it with the weights and floats on the write place to avoid being pointing the surface or the seabed) Recently I bought 2 carbon float arms much less expensive than the math you were doing with the arm and the jumbo stix. I had not yet an opportunity to experiment them, but they look very nice! (Around 22€ each) eBay item number: 202812162353 A good thing to have with these float arms (or with the stix) is to have long clamps. Another way I have seen to place the float device was on the point of the focus light. You can use a triple clamp topic there both the focus light and the floating arm. The arm does not need to be fixed on both sides. Some brands also have a hotshoe connector on the flat port and that allow you to put there a ball with a triple clamp for the focus light and the float arm, witchmight help the overall balance of the system with the float being more on the front. Or you can go DIY and fix a ball for that purpose on the front of the port. i really miss diving! BR Pedro Alves
  12. Hi Rgikes. Do not put the dome on the bottom, under the housing. The housing is much heavier and stiffer than the dome. And you can take out the handles to gain space (like Maclean). i use a Lowepro ComputterTrekker (backpack) to pack my housing (Aquática) without the handles, with the Canon 7Dmkii inside, the tolinha 10-17; the Canon 100 mm usb, 2 inon z240, minidome, macro wetlands, the arms and clamps, the macro port, focus light, the computer (both scuba and laptop), optical fiber cables, Suunto transmiter, Usually I travel with my wife, and i use her hand luggage to take the dome (8 inch, not 9...) and the handles of the housing and the port extensions. usually I do not take a hand bag. But for next trip, as she is not going, I might take a bag with the dome port and the handles To protect the dome I went with it to supermarkets to find a food case that would fit to it. I found one that is a snug fit, if I take the neoprene I can close the case, but usually I Use it with the neoprene even not being able to close completely the lid
  13. Hi Horvendile It seams to me that you are looking to arms too big. Too big arms will produce more vibration to the camera, will be much more drag on the water, will be cucumbersome for WA close focus, and your strobes are not so strong for such a distance. On the past I made myself 2 arms with 40cm (more or less 16 inch). I had to cut them in half as it brought me the "problems" I reported on the previous paragraph. I have 4x8 and 4x5. the firsts I use for WA, the laters for macro. for 2 strobes (Inon Z240) Specially for macro you need small arms. sometimes you need to place the housing in quite narrow spaces, and the bigger the arms the more difficult. Cheers
  14. Hi Horvendile the Leak Sentinnel is a must! it is easy to install. You can check this YouTube video But when doing it yourself, install without the dome port to avoid any accident with it (on the vídeo the guy let a screw to fall inside the dome, could result in an unwanted mark in the interior of the dome). Before installing, watch the housing with the camera inside to look for the best spot for the battery holder. Pay attention to place it in an easy spot for the battery replacement and where it does not mess with any control of the housing. Try to put the battery on the lateral wall of the housing, to avoid a short (damaging the electronics) in the event of a small leak (not probable with a vacuum system, but....). Do not forget how you are going to organize the cable inside. Remove the camera and proceed with the installation (without the dome/port) After installing, place the camera inside and recheck if anything is messing with any control. Grant that the cable is outside of the way of the back lid. Close the housing and test the system to check if everything is well. Leave the system in test for a evening to grant that there is not small leak of air. If everything ok, open the housing and secure the cables properly in place (to avoid them to move inside and get stuck in front of any control during the dives. You are good to go! Another thing I suggest you is to take out the adaptor of the front of the pump to connect and disconnect from the valve. It is much easier to work like that than how it is being done on the video. On the video you can check also that the vacuum get the lid pretty in place. It is not possible to open the lid without releasing the valve (14:45 on the video).
  15. Hi Vlada i do own a Aquatica housing (A7Dmkii) and decided to go with the valve and use the surveyor moisture alarm (from Aquatica) as the electronics. the decision was based on the shape of the Aquatica valve (I do not like the L shape, as it seams to me that it is going to “grabe” any cable or strap or hose) and with the benefit of the lower cost. The housing had included the moisture alarme that has integrated also a pressure alarm and getting the valve alone from the leak sentinel was less value and the valve alone from leak sentinel is quite slick. You need to ask the valve or the full system for Aquatica and it should be ok. You can take out tha Aquatica valve and use the hole to put the Leak Sentinel. Or use the spare bulkhead. i decided to take out one of the strobe bulkhead (the electrical one) and place there the valve (although I have a spare bulkhead also). the valve is the one on the left on the attached photo. As other people said, it is easy to replace. BR Pedro Alves
  16. Hi DKS to my knowledge, the non-wireless cable should work with all the Z-240 types (and also the Z-330). The wireless cable termination will not fit on the older Z-240 types. The thread is the same in both cables (I believe). The difference is on the part Of the sensor that is not threaded, that the non wireless ones are thicker than the wireless ones and the cap of cable of wireless type does not have “space” enough to accommodate the non.wireless sensor (bulkier)
  17. Hi Deckard As said before, FF underwater brings bigger challenges than APS or M43 (bulkier, more expensive, harder to nail the photo sharp corner to corner) Unfirtunatelly Canon is not the strongest focus anymore (I do have Canon systems since ever, and my actual body is 7D mkII...) Nikon on DSLR and Sony on Mirrorless are the top notch at this moment. I do not change because I have a very big amount of money ”invested”, and not being a pro it is not reasonable to sunk such a fortune for so few dives per year. besides that the limitation is not on the camera, is on the guy behind the camera. That said, you have chance to go underwater with a nice system on a much cheaper way.... you can use the Canon 80D underwater. You can find a nice housing second hand for a good price. Even a housing more ergonomically than ikelite. I had an Ikelite housing before, and I noticed a big improvement in ergonomics when changed to Aquatica. But you also have other housings, like Nauticam, Subal, Sea and Sea, Seacam.... Pedro Alves
  18. Hi Matt do you have the site of the maker of that equipment? thanks
  19. As you probably know, the amount of weight you need depends on several factors: the suit (not only the thickness but also the number of layers) but also your own density, and all the equipment you are using (steel bottle vs aluminium bottle, and other accessories). Padi want to grant that their students to be heavy, to avoid quick ascents. That’s the way to start. The guide works in any measure. You just need to use the same for the body weight and for the plumbs. Basically it is 10%. And from there you add or subtract weight depending on how you fell yourself underwater. in Portugal we use mainly steel bottles. this 1/10 rule works fine for first approach.
  20. usually, for diving with a 7 mm wetsuit, you need in weight your weight divided by 10, minus 1. For free diving, I do not know if you should use more or less. But it is a matter of trial and error. When you find yourself comfortable, it is the right weight.
  21. Hi Harin with the new camera you are going to make photography or only Video? If it is only Video, the locklite arms are “okeyish”, but if you want to make photography, you should change the the arm system also to balls and clamps.... much more freedom to positioning the light right were you want it... UCLS is a rebound brand, and you can find with them alll the package (tray, handles, arms and clamps and adapters). Or you can go for unbranded equipment from eBay. Much more economical, but some people says that had bad experiences.
  22. Hi! The ikelite DS125 or DS160/DS161 are also good strobes for WA. Several people like those more thanks the Inons. I had a pair of DS125. Never failed me. I sold them and bought a pair of Inon Z240 type IV. The reason for the change was that in a trip to Bunaken, I went a day to Lambeh, we done 4 dives and on the dusk dive, for the mandarins I had no more battery and my colleagues with Inons or YS kept firing because they had spare batteries “AA”. I did not had spare batteries.... At that precise moment, underwater, I divided to sell my Ikelites and buy Inons. The reasons were: - smaller (easier for traveling) - possibility to use AA batteries (easy and not expensive to have spare batteries and chargers) - I wanted to change to optical trigger - I was able to get a good value for mine DS125 at that time (almost enough to buy the Inons new) - everybody had Inons at that time and I did not wanted to fell outdated the Ikelites had some things that were better than the Inons although: - color temperature warmer (better for WA) 4800 vê 5200 K (I solved with a a gel on front of the Inons) - more or less the same weight, but in a bigger volume (bulkier for transporting, but less negative underwater than the Inons) - easier button commands (to operate and to “understand”) as negatives on the DS, the TTL is “proprietary”, only works with Iklite housings, and do not have optical activation If you want to start with macro, you can start with 1 strobe and 1 focus light. You can find cheap focus lights on eBay. That allows you to buy new the strobe you really want, instead of buying what shows up at the moment on second hand. Never-the-less, a pair of DS125, if working properly and with battery life “normal”, seams a good deal.
  23. That’s why I love Leak Sentinel system from Vivid Housing / Miso! Pretty simple. Easy to repair. Any pump do the effect. I have 2 Aquatica housings, but do not know in detail the Aquatica valve/pump system. Although I use the Surveyor system from Aquatica as electronics, I decided by the simple valve from Vivid Housing / Miso.
  24. The WA you won’t use, but a macro lens is usable. With that in mind, if you want now a macro lens, I wold stick to a M67 one. For your later system it is easy to use with a flip adapter, solving the issue of easiness of on/off underwater.
  25. Hi Lewis If you are thinking in replace/upgrade your system in 2 years, you should consider what you are going to get and have it in mind for anything you buy now, to protect your investment.
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