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Everything posted by donauw

  1. I have recently changed from the Epson 1280 to the 2200. I am now working at getting the color on the 2200 "dialed in." The monitor is profiled with Colorvision's Spyder and I've been using the "out of box" Epson printer profiles (via PS 7). Printer dialog is set at ICM, No Printer Color Management. With the Epson profiles, I'm getting blues that are too cyan and there is a yellow cast to the brightest highlights. I have tried custom profiles created with Monaco EZColor with similar results. The color problems can be about 75% corrected in PS using a correction layer before printing, close, but not enough. Moreover, the Monaco profiles work great (better than Epson) for topside shots. Before I start spending time, paper and ink editing profiles, I thought I'd ask for input from the forum. Anyone else out there with similar experience? Advise? Regards,
  2. Anemome Fish on cargo boom of the Shinkoku Maru. RAW ISO 200 1/60 @ f22 Nikon 60 mm AFD Macro Ike 200's x 2 @ full & 1/2 power Regards,
  3. Angelfish amidst coral growth on "goalposts" of Hanakawa Maru RAW ISO 200 1/60 @ f11 Nikon 12-24 @ 24 mm Ike 200's x 2 @ 1/2 power Regards,
  4. Bridge of the Kensho Maru. RAW ISO 200 1/60 @ f10 Nikon 12-24 @ 12 mm Ike 200's x 2 @ 1/2 power Regards,
  5. James - Just posted a couple. More to follow. Regards,
  6. Natural light shots on the Nippo Maru and San Francisco Maru. There was not a lot of sunlight on these dives as they were early in the morning and it was cloudy. RAW ISO 1600 1/80 @ f7.1 Nikon 12-24 @ 12 mm RAW ISO 1600 1/60 @ f7.1 Nikon 12-24 @ 12 mm RAW ISO 1600 1/60 @ f4 Nikon 12-24 @ 12 mm Comments and criticism welcome. Regards,
  7. Recently back from a week diving Truk Lagoon and I've posted a gallery. We were on the Odyssey - and they certainly deserve their top notch reputation. All of us agreed that it was the best live aboard we've been on. The dive operation was superb - free 30% EANx standard and would blend any mix needed. Choice of 80s, 112s or double 80s. We had the opportunity to do many of the deeper wrecks and decompression diving was supported (and encouraged) with appropriate hang bottles and mixes. Photo table was adequete - especially since I was the only one shooting a housed camera. I ended up taking the camera on about 1/2 the dives (housing and strobes too bulky for some of the areas we were in). Most of the photos were shot with the Nikon 12-24 mm using the Subal FE2 and 50 mm extension and a 2+ diopter. (Shark photos were with the 17-35mm and closeups with the 60 mm AFD macro). All shot as NEFs and converted with PS7 plugin. Further editing as needed in PS7. Comments and advise welcome as always. Truk Lagoon Gallery - October 03 Regards,
  8. I agree with Dave. I've been using the 12-24 with the DP-FE2 port, 50 mm extension and +2 diopter and have been very happy with the results. I recently returned from a week in Truk where the lens got extensive use - worked well for both WA and CFWA. (I haven't had time to get pics out, but will). Furthermore, the greatest advantage of zooms for digital, IMHO, is the ability to "crop" or tighten the shot at the time of shooting - thereby maximizing the use of the 6.1 MB you have. (Remember, a scanned slide would produce a 27 MB file before you crop) Like Dave, my experience with the 17-35 has been that its sharpness was similar to my 20 mm prime (now sold...). Regards,
  9. Ooops, gotta fix that. Thanks.
  10. Great shots, Dave - guess you bought the lens. No Jim, donauw was in Truk and will get photos up once unjetlagged... Regards,
  11. If you travel with a dry suit, as I frequently do, consider weight and packing size. Many suits are quite bulky and crushed neoprene is VERY heavy and takes a long time to dry. I've been using the DUI TLS 350 for that reason and been very happy with it. I don't know its European availability and support, though. Regards,
  12. I live in Wisconsin, which has about the same availability of UW Photo gear as Belize I have worked with UW Phototech (www.uwphoto.com) and bought Subal housings, ports, gears, etc. - albeit for Nikon. Their prices were signifcantly less than Backscatter (equivilent to B&H on those items they both sell) and service great. I generally communicated with them via e-mail. Regards,
  13. Give what you already have, I'd suggest a longer zoom (i.e. 80 - 400 VR) for this trip. Topside wild life is great! Regards,
  14. Here's what I got while Dave was sharking. Its surprising I missed seeing the sharks, I usually see the big stuff when I have the macro on the camera! D100, Nikon 60mm Macro, Subal D10 housing, Ikelite 200's x2. Regards,
  15. Thanks for the photos, Dave! I wish I'd even SEEN the sharks! James, I agree, the Nikon 17 - 35 AFS is THE topside zoom I end up using the most. I also frequently use the 28 - 70 AFS (it is LARGE, though and I bought it long before the VR 24 - 120 became available). Regards,
  16. Oh, yeah, the reason for a diopter in general (with a dome port) is to allow the lens to focus close enough for the apparent image formed by the dome (the dome acts as a lens). Some lenses that do focus close enough without a diopter seem to have better results with a diopter (edge sharpness). I suspect the 12 - 24 may be one of these. Regards,
  17. I'm not sure I do need the diopter. Is is "recommended" by Subal, so I used it. When I have some time to just fool around with the lens and housing, I'll try it with and without the diopter and compare. Re the viz - it was pretty good at several of the sites on San Clemente, so we stayed 3 of the 4 days there. The other islands were reported to have "dirtier" conditions. The dives at Santa Rosa the last day were definately "macrodives." The downside was missing the sea lion rookery on Santa Barbara. (There is always next year...) Regards,
  18. I have several shots taken with the new Nikon 12 - 24 AFS lens from the Channel Islands posted at: Channel Islands - Vision Limited Load August 2003 All the wide angle shots were taken with the 12 - 24. D100 in Subal D10 using EXR50 ring and dome port with a +2 diopter on the lens. Regards,
  19. From Subal Austria re Nikon 12 -24 "Dear Mr. Dixon, For Nikkor 12-24 mm lens we recommend extension ring EXR-50 and close up lens +2/77 with DP-FE2. With best regards, Sigrid Stepanek SUBAL austria A.Stepanek GmbH. Leopold Werndlstr. 31 A - 4400 Steyr Phone: 0043-(0)7252-464240 Fax: 0043-(0)7252-464246 E-mail: austria@subal.com"
  20. Listed on e-bay at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...egory=3343&rd=1 Regards, Don Dixon
  21. For an excellent online course check out http://www.martysnyderman.com/course.html Its about $50 and a great place to start. Regards,
  22. service@seaandsea.com sales@seaandsea.com Good luck! Regards,
  23. Uh, wait a minute... If you are shooting TTL macro where the ambient light is not a factor, changing your shutter speed shouold have no effect on your exposure. Actually, I do not believe that changing the shutter speed will affect exposure with a manual strobe setting, either. The flash duration is much shorter than any shutter speed you can use. In order to change your TTL exposure you will need to use either the flash exposure compensation button (available on the Subal D10 - rear of housing) to increase or decrease your flash output or dial in a camerea exposure compensation (top of the housing near the On/Off switch. Regards,
  24. Ditto the above. In addition, check your LCD to immediately review your shots using the histogram and TRUST the histogram. My experience is that the LCD tends to be too bright and you will consistently underexpose unless you use the histogram. Also, if you must either under or overexpose...go for slight under exposure. The D100 is great at holding shadow detail, not so great with highlight detail. Have fun. Oh, yeah, one other question. Did you have your dealer resolder the internal bulkhead wiring for TTL? The D10 housing ships with only the two pins soldered and will not shoot TTL without having all 5 pins done. Regards,
  25. The 125s have 90 degree coverage which goes to 100 degrees with the diffuser (losing another stop). The 200s are 100 degrees without the diffuser Used as a pair I doubt that the 10 degree coverage difference is important. Regards,
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