donauw

I've been using twin 200s for the last few years. Above water they are heavy and bulky. Underwater they are only bulky. I've been pleased with the results but would probably go with twin 125s if I were buying today. They are significantly more compact, only loose an f stop compared to the 200s and can be used with Ikes variable controller. Coverage is similar. Regards,

Since my wife has been insisting on a trip to Italy instead of to one of my preferred dive destinations , I figured perhaps I could combine the two. Seems that she'll accept Sicily. So, now I have to find a dive operation. Has anyone been there? Regards,

Congratulations on a great shot! New Orleans, New Orleans...can't recall much diving there Regards,

Polarizing filter? Might have helped. Regards,

You have some very nice shots! You might want to select a few and post them in the Critique section for specific comments and advice. It is hard to give advice on an entire Gallery. Just a few observations: Be mindful of your "negative space" or background. You want your subject to stand out or be enhanced by the background, not lost in it. IMG_0075 is an example of where you did this well. IMG_0074 not so well. Consider getting down and shooting upwards to enhance your subjects and get them with the blue water. If an eye is in the photo, it should be in sharp focus. Compare IMG_0036 (eye sharp) with IMG_0047 (not sharp) Check out http://www.martysnyderman.com for a great online UW Photo course (I believe the cost is $50 US). Regards,

Get a great deal on a Sea & Sea DX D100 housing on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=2925577552 Regards.

Since I have the fisheye port (and don't have a flat port that will fit the lens - I think it is wider than the Sigma) and "only" need to add an extension ring to use the lens, I think I'll go that route. Now, just have to wait for the extension ring to get here from Austria... I'll let you know how it works. Regards,

Thanks Alex - I think I may give the 28 - 70 a try. Subal lists it as compatible with my Fisheye dome (DP-FE2) and all I'd need to add is an extension ring. Of course, I'm not sure how the results will compare with the flat port you've been using. Any thoughts? Regards,

Alex - I have the 28 - 70 AFS but haven't used it UW. What situations do you use it for? I guess all I would need to add to my dome would be the Extension ring 70? Regards,

RE: Many thanks for the input, offers of used equip for sale are welcome!!! Check: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=6&t=2204 Regards,

Yawn....

Here's a GREAT deal on a Sea & Sea DX-D100 housing: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=6&t=2204 Regards,

Hmmm...the day I bought my D100 all my the photos I had taken with my D1 were suddenly degraded, faded and blurred? Nah. I think we forget that if we are getting good results with the "tools" we are using (and I am thrilled with my D100 results - I feel they are equal to slide scans off my F100), the introduction of a new more advanced tool does not degrade the quality of what we already have. (Just the resale value!) Buy the best you can afford and enjoy working with it. Regards,

I'm selling my Sea & Sea DX D100 housing - just back from Sea & Sea recall - all controls are now functional. This housing is essentially new - only 12 dives. Selling because I ended up with a Subal system and sold my film Sea & Sea gear (NX100 Pro) as a package. Thought I'd see if there was any interest here before I go to E-bay. $1150 + shipping gets it! E-mail donauw@dwave.net Regards,

Check out Marty Snyderman's online course at www.martysnyderman.com Regards,

An additional advantage the zoom is to be able to "tighten"up your shot. This minimizes the need to crop and allows you to make the most of your resolution. i.e. compare a D100 file at 9 meg vs a scanned slide at 24+ meg... You have more leeway in cropping the slide... I find the Nikon 17 - 35 AFS to be a great lens behind a dome. I'm anxiously awaiting the 12 - 24! Examples of the 17 - 35 behind a Subal dome can be found at: http://www.dwave.net/~donauw/Curacao/page_01.htm Regards,

I presume the Subal will be similar in price to the D10 (for Nikon D100). Base D10 housing is around $2900 US. Regards,

You do not need to do this with the DX D100 because the housing's strobe cable only has 2 pins and therefore does not contact the TTL sections of the hotshoe. You do not need to do it with the Subal D10, either, unless the TTL connectors have been soldered into place (optional and necessary if using housed SB28DX or SB80DX strobes). I can't speak to the other housings. Regards,

Subal now has a housing for the SB80DX strobe - which will allow "TTL" with the Nikon D100. Has anyone had experience with this strobe underwater? Is it worth the $$$ (and the hassle of either getting new synch cables or taping over contacts when using other strobes)? Regards,

Sean - Thanks, I have this one other with - I think - less distraction, but the damsel is not as sharp:

Nikon D100 in Subal D10 housing w Nikon 14 mm AFD 1/60th, f11. Twin Ike 200's @ Full power.

Nikon D100 in Subal D10 housing w Nikon 17 - 35mm AFS @ 35mm 1/60th, f22. Twin Ike 200's @ Full & 1/2 power.

Nikon D100 in Subal D10 housing w Nikon 60 mm AFD Macro 1/60th, f16. Twin Ike 200's @ Full & 1/2 power.

Nikon D100 in Subal D10 housing w Nikon 17 - 35mm AFS @ 35mm 1/60th, f11. Twin Ike 200's @ 1/2 power.

I just noticed, on the top of my fisheye dome port, in front of the Subal logo and just proximal to the port hood, a small screw hole without a screw. Does anyone know what (perhaps a screw) goes here? I am not anxious to find out the hard way that it is of any importance.... Thanks,