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diveski01

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Posts posted by diveski01

  1. Posted · Edited by diveski01

    Since I can't seem to find an online retailer for the Inon 5" arm with YS mount (YS Arm MS) and I will be using an INON wet lens caddy, I will be forced into a mix-n-match system between Nauticam and INON.

     

    I've read some reviewsw/o naming any names that don't like housing brand arms and clamps so maybe I also will throw ULCS into the mix too? I would then only have the two Nauticam base balls to deal with wear and tear concerns, if any. At least all three use same diameter whereas mixing S&S OLD arms and clamps with new Nauticam base balls is a bit wobbly as the S&S balls aren't 1" diameter.

     

    Thanks all for your input - it's been very helpful!

  2. Posted

    I have a new Nauticam housing for RX100 and several years old S&S strobe arms. The Nauticam rig is at least 4 lbs negative with the WA lens and I'd like to add a close up wet mount lens (or two) which I would take along on most dives, adding even more weight.

     

    Which arms and clamps would you buy?

    Are the ULCS clamps compatible with the Nauticam 1" base balls?

  7. Posted

    I stayed with Sony brand for both. Sony BCTRX Battery Charger $33, and Sony NP-BX1/M8 Lithium-Ion X Type Battery $44, both through Amazon.com. Off-brand options were available for much lower prices, but I didn't want an el cheapo battery in a $1600 rig that would be problematic. Just not worth a few bucks IMHO to risk it.

  8. Posted

    You can buy a charger so that you can charge the battery out of the camera. The one that comes with it connects through the camera so that you can charge without removing the battery from the camera. You can also charge via USB cable from a laptop/PC. I just got the same rig, haven't even used it yet.

  10. Posted

    From what I know, the main reason Ikelite is less expensive (not lesser quality) is that the manufacturing process for their housings is completely different than that for machined aluminum housings. Ikelite can select the size of the housing for each camera from a series of standard size housings therefore they only have to maintain a certain number of production molds. They then customize the types and locations of the control buttons for each camera, which are hand assembled. The materials are less expensive, yet extremely durable, and the assembly process is less expensive, even with USA labor. Injection molding is faster than machining each housing individually. Polycarbonate is less expensive than aluminum.

     

    "Like every Ikelite product, this housing for the ... is designed, built and tested in the USA. We use locally sourced, top-grade materials from trusted vendors we've been working with for decades. Our housings are built by hand and individually tested for fit, function and waterproof integrity. The average assembly technician is a certified scuba diver and has over 16 years of experience building Ikelite products. We back our products with over 50 years of experience and service within the dive industry."

     

    I happen to live in Indianapolis where Ikelite is located and I have a good friend who has worked there for 25+ years so it is a company that I trust. My last camera was in an Ikelite housing and I found it easy to use and travel with. All of that being said, I just purchased a Nauticam housing for my new more fully featured camera because the Ikelite housing for it is quite large and Nauticam has fiber optic cable "ports" that are more elegant than using the stick on velcro mask and flash diverter attachment. I also had "free" money to splurge with (work bonus) so I went for the "ooh, aah" configuration. It has just arrived and my first impression is that the Ikelike housing had better weight distribution. This NC feels very tippy front to back so I will need to see how that plays out once strobes are added and I'm in the water with it.

  11. Posted

    I have received generous information regarding housings and lenses from a few of the well known u/w photog stores. They can usually tell you exactly which lenses work well with which cameras and housings and what adapters are required. Granted, they will first support the items that they sell, so it's a good idea to ask around to see just how many options there are available for your camera.

     

    http://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/

     

    http://reefphoto.com/shop/

     

    http://www.backscatter.com/

  15. Posted

    On a previous trip, we were last to board our connecting flight because they filled the plane from the front and the rear first :( By the time we were allowed to board they were forcing the last 20 passengers to surrender carry ons to be gate checked. Once we were on board there were some spots still available in the overhead bins :( Yep, we were totally - well you know.

     

    I always have my camera, regs, gauges, and mask as carry on and it's not packed to be treated as checked luggage in the cargo hold. I don't consider these items as optional nor should they be tossed around by the baggage handlers.

     

    Can anyone recommend a lightweight carry on size bag that is rugged enough to protect camera gear if this happens? I hate to lug a super heavy Pelican case, but will if I have to.

     

    I see that the new lightweight polycarb spinners do not resist compression. They just don't break or tear when significantly compressed.

  16. Posted

    $300 Sea & Sea MotorMarine III amphibious 35mm film camera

    • 20mm f3.8 Primary Lens makes it easy to focus

    • LCD display panel is illuminated for night diving or dark water

    • Two-point focusing: Takes the guesswork out of focusing

    • Electronic Shutter Release

    • TTL strobe bracketing function

    • High-performance aperture-priority AE function

    • 5-pin strobe connector N type adopted

    • Target Light guarantees accurate framing

    • Depth rating of 60m/200ft

    • Includes WA view finder and dual arm tray

    (2T and 3.5T macro wet lenses and dual sync cord available separately.)

     

    post-7275-0-95431600-1373303919_thumb.jpg

  20. Posted

    I am (still) making the transition from film amphibious S&S MMIIEX to digital. Bought a second hand Sony and Ikelite system a few years back and HATED the controls so I dumped it on eBay. I then bought a Fuji e900 and Ikelite housing with much better controls, took a short course, and thought I was on my way. I have only used it on a couple of trips 2007-2008. My eyes keep changing and I struggle with seeing the display with mono-vision contact lenses (one eye distance, the other reading). I reverted back to my film camera for a BlackBeard's trip in 2009 (not the best boat for film cameras but got good pics again), no trips in 2010 (pffft!), then tried the Fuji again in 2011 in Cayman with some decent shots but without any WA or macro nothing too exciting. Didn't get a pretty fishies trip last year either (small pft - got to spend a week in Akumal/PA as a non-cave diving spouse).

     

    I've just gotten a big fat bonus for 25 years of service at work so I'm dumping it all into a new Sony RX100 and Nauticam housing! I am adding the LCD Magnifier with Dioptric Adjustment with high hopes of being able to see what I'm doing and returning to a reasonable frequency of dive trips. Only have 3 days in Cozumel planned for this year, maybe more dives in PA if I find a dive buddy while the cavers are doing their thing?? I am going to insist on a real dive trip each year - until our next major renovation project at least.

  21. Posted

    I have just ordered the RX100 and Nauticam housing, but seriously considered the Ikelite as my current rig is an Ikelite with Fuji e900. I've been using S&S strobe in slave mode triggered by the camera's internal flash (blocked by diverter panel that attaches around the lens port) and S&S fiber optic cable. I have always used strobes in manual setting mode, never in TTL. If I could see better, and had more time to dive, this set up can take fabulous photos. Others with same set up have been very successful. I remain unconvinced that TTL matters for u/w strobes if you already know how to shoot with manual camera settings.

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    I am selling a like new Fujifilm Finepix e900 (9 mp) point and shoot camera and Ikelite housing. Includes Ikelite tray with single release handle, lens cover, flash diverter, flash diffuser, and silicone/spare parts kit (rubber bumpers), camera, 2 or 3 xD memory cards (possibly 4), camera software, and camera owners manual. Both camera and housing are in like new condition. Very gently used and well cared for.

     

     

    post-7275-0-05706900-1372536464_thumb.jpg

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