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About randini

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  • Birthday 07/19/1970

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon Coolpix P4
  • Camera Housing
    Fantasea FP-4
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS-60/N w/ HeinrichsWeikamp optical Digital Adapter
  • Accessories
    Sea & Sea multistay base, random arms & clamps, Sea & Sea .56X Wide conversion lens mounted on a Fantasea 52mm WAL adapter & a generic 52 to 48mm step down ring
  1. Are you shooting in macro mode? I just got a Fantasea fisheye lens for my P5000 and haven't had a chance to get it wet yet, but the manual specifically says to set the camera to macro mode when usung the lens. That's also what I've read in many other parts when it comes to fisheye lens use. If I understand it correctly, it has to do with the dome creating a virtual image right near the dome's surface, so you need to set the camera to focus closely in order to get that "image" in focus.
  2. I'm confident Canon will make a housing for it since, at least according to the specs, the S90 does come with an UW scene mode and an UW white balance setting. Pretty much every camera Canon has made that I know of and has these options also had a Canon housing avialable.
  3. Thanks for clearing that up. I wish they'd make these details more readily availabe on their website.
  4. Ikelite makes an adapter for using Inon's AD mount lenses on their housings. It's the #9306.80 Bayonet Mount LINK
  5. I checked your site before I asked and couldn't find any mention of it. Now I see it there and, wow, $99! That's too awesome.
  6. Thanks Jack. I just saw peorders for the 46mm one on B&H for $110 w/free shipping. At that price, I'm just order one and hope for the best. @FreediveWI: If there's a 67mm adapter for your camera's housing, Fantasea does list one with a M67 thread.
  7. I also saw the bigeye lenses and was coming here to ask the same thing. Sorry I can't contribute anything to the topic. I do have another question about them, would pics through a dome like this be sharper than using a WA lens? I know it won't be as wide, but I'm willing to sacrifice some wideness for sharpness.
  8. I'm looking to go with rechargables for several toys (marine radio, gps and, of course my YS60) and have decided that the eneloops are probably the way to go. So far I've justbeen using the Duracell ProCell non rechargables that we get through my work. I've been looking all over for the eneloops down here in Chile and can't find them anywhere. According to wiki, there are several brands that are just eneloops rebadged as something else. The only ones I've been able to find are the sony's and am going to pick some up tomorrow when I visit the city. Here's a link to the full wiki article: LINK and here's the list:
  9. I asked Matthias Heinrichs about this about a year ago and he was pretty convinced it would be almost impossible, at least with leds. IIRC his argument was along the lines that LEDs are too slow to fire & quench in comparison to the different TTL's to make them a viable solution. It's close, but it still goes connected to a camera via a bulkhead. From the Inon connector out it is a fiber optic connection to the strobe, but in the end you still need a bulkhead. I can see IR maybe working (after all, I 've heard several times that in P&S cameras the best way to go is to block off the camera's internal flash with exposed film to keep visible light from penetrating and letting the IR trigger the strobe), but I doubt RF would (unless you were to build a reciever that goes on the outside of the housing or use RF strobes). But then I don't know as I'm just a beach bum biologist. Yes, it connects to a bulkhead outside the housing and converts the electrical signal from the camera's hotshoe to an optical one that gets transmitted via FO cable to optically triggered strobes (in particular, Inon's). The way I see it, is you still have the bulkhead weakpoint for flooding, You just eliminate the need for a synch cable by replacing it with a FO one (which are cheaper to fix/replace if the cable floods). It would be awesome to have such a device! I am buying a Fantasea housing for my P5000 and was just sending Matthias an email asking about putting one of his bulkheads & iTTL converters in it, but I'd much rather go with a solution like this since I wouldn't have to drill a hole through the housing. While I'm at it, I'll ask him to jump in here.
  10. Exactly. My coolpix struggles from time to time in some macro scenes so I'm ordering the fantasea one to see if it helps. Plus it's only $40, so if it doesn't help, then it's no big loss.
  11. I do think it's worth it since I'm getting a housing for mine, but then it's just my opinion and YMMV. Keep in mind that I'm not to worried about RAW since I have a strobe that I'm carrying over from my older camera and I've been able to do some corrections in PS on my pictures to get them to my satisfaction. The ones that I haven't been happy with, even raw couldn't have helped me (usually phtographer error, but then I'm still learning). Also, lower MP, many argue that that's actually a good thing for these small sensor cameras. I've been fine with the 8MP of my P4 up until now and, while I do like the pictures out of my P5000 much more than my P4, I don't feel that I gain much with the extra 2 MP of the P5000 (topside stuff - I haven't used the P5000 underwater yet). What I do like about the P5000 over the P4 is that it has much more flexibility in the shooting modes and that the housings for it all have better access to the controls than the housing I have for my P4. If you're considering the G10, you should also take a look at the P6000, It's very much like an updated version of the P5000 (think of a G10'ed P5000: specs like a G10, in a "body" you're already familiar with). The main differences between it and the P5000 is that it has a raw format (the infamous non-standard NRW format, but Adobe now supports it on both Mac & Windows platforms as do a few others), a nice 28mm eq. lens, and since you're into MP, 13.5 of them. Iklite's already got a housing for it, and Fantasea and Fix should have theirs out soon (the FIX will be a winner if they use the dome port over the Nikon WA adapter as has been rumored).
  12. First of all, IMHO 15 dives is not enough to start jumping in with a rig. You need to get more experience in the water. A novice diver with a DSLR rig to is an accident waiting to happen. Your diving skillz really need to be second nature before you start concentrating composition, exposure and so on. Second, if you've only done 15 dives are you sure you want to invest about $2000 (not including camera & strobes) to take an DSLR in the water with you? How happy are you with image quality of the P5000 you have for topside pics? I know it's no dslr (I have P5000), but if you're happy enough with it, then then why not get a housing for that, start playing around with that in the water and build on it as you advance. Your options are the Fantasea for $200, the Ikelite for $450-500 and the FIX for $750-900. All will take add on lenses and M67 mount lenses for the Ike & Fix have a very good resale value if you want to sell them to upgrade to a DSLR at some point. There are many strobes that will work well with this camera that would also migrate with you if you do upgrade to a DSLR system later.
  13. Hi Phil, The key to a lot of this is assembling the rig (sealing the housing) in an environment that is dry. Cold air has a lower saturation vapor pressure and will therefore generally be drier than warm air. If you seal cool dry air in the housing, then warm it up, you will have no problems with fogging as the air will will be absorbing all the humidity it can (as a matter of fact, as the temperature increases, the relative humidity will drop if no additional water vapor is added). If you seal the housing in a warmer environment with slightly higher humidity, then as you cool it (without adding water vapor) the relative humidity inside begins to increase and as you approach the saturation pressure, the water vapor will begin to condense on the inside of the housing. I only have a lil compact digicam setup, but did have some problems with fogging. Until recently I had managed to control fogging in it pretty well (recently I've been having problems with my WA conversion lens fogging up) through just silica gel packs and keeping the rig away from direct sunlight. My current setup routine consists in sealing the housing in a the dryest environment I can find. Usually at home or in my office, the night before when it's cooler and as far away from the humidity as I can get. I've seen recomendations for asembling in an air conditioned house or car (so that the camera and all the air in the housing is cool and dry), but neither one is really an option for me. When I put the housing together, I also fill the empty space within the housing with as many silica gel packs as I can fit without stuffing them in. Up until the dive, I keep the rig in the coolest place I can find and out of direct sunlight. As for my latest problem, with the WA lens foging up, it has only been occurring recently. I'm guessing because it's almost summer here and getting rather warm topside and the water in central Chile is still pretty cool (about 15 deg C). So I figure that the rig is warming up while on the boat and then when I get in the cool water, and the lens cools, the moisture condenses and fogs up the lens (usually after about 10 minutes or so - similar to what's happening to you taking into account the smaller volume of my setup). It was suggested to me (by another Wetpixel member) that I fill a small cooler with seawater from the dive site and leave my assembled rig in that for as long as I can before the dive in order for all the innerds of the rig to equalize to the temperature to the water. I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds reasonable. I even have a cooler with a small refrigeration unit that plugs into the 12V current provided by a cigarrete lighter on my boat. Next time out, I'm going to fill that with seawater, drop my rig in and plug it in during the ride out to the site. I've even thought about leaving all the pieces (camera without battery & battery door open, WA lens, and open housing) in a ziploc bag or large tupperware with some large silica gel packs in my fridge overnight in order to purge all the water vapor from it before putting it all together. Hope some of this helps at least give you some ideas to finding a solution that works for you. Good luck.
  14. I've seen the threads on housing/lens port fogging issues and have been able to keep that very well controled. I have a Sea&Sea lens made for the PT-009 housing I got from the S&S closeout page a few months back and am using it on the Fantasea housing from my Coolpix P4. The other day while I was diving at Punta de Tralca (central Chile) my WA conversion lens started fogging. I'm sure it was the lens becasue when I noticed the fogging on the screen, I turned the camera around and could see the silver dollar sized disk of haze on the inside of the lens. I removed the lens and the housing's lens port was fine. Obviously I can't toss any silica gel packets in it, and don't know of anything that I could apply to the outside of the lens that would keep it from fogging on the inside. Anybody have any ideas? Also while I was in the water, the outer most rubber ring was loose, as though I would be able to screw it off (so I just tightened it back down). Should I try to unscrew it in a nice dry area (like a walk in fridge) and see if I can purge any humidity from inside the lens?
  15. I just posted this in response to you post int he other thread. Sorry, I missed this one: Boa sorte
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