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Everything posted by randini

  1. Are you shooting in macro mode? I just got a Fantasea fisheye lens for my P5000 and haven't had a chance to get it wet yet, but the manual specifically says to set the camera to macro mode when usung the lens. That's also what I've read in many other parts when it comes to fisheye lens use. If I understand it correctly, it has to do with the dome creating a virtual image right near the dome's surface, so you need to set the camera to focus closely in order to get that "image" in focus.
  2. I'm confident Canon will make a housing for it since, at least according to the specs, the S90 does come with an UW scene mode and an UW white balance setting. Pretty much every camera Canon has made that I know of and has these options also had a Canon housing avialable.
  3. Thanks for clearing that up. I wish they'd make these details more readily availabe on their website.
  4. Ikelite makes an adapter for using Inon's AD mount lenses on their housings. It's the #9306.80 Bayonet Mount LINK
  5. I checked your site before I asked and couldn't find any mention of it. Now I see it there and, wow, $99! That's too awesome.
  6. Thanks Jack. I just saw peorders for the 46mm one on B&H for $110 w/free shipping. At that price, I'm just order one and hope for the best. @FreediveWI: If there's a 67mm adapter for your camera's housing, Fantasea does list one with a M67 thread.
  7. I also saw the bigeye lenses and was coming here to ask the same thing. Sorry I can't contribute anything to the topic. I do have another question about them, would pics through a dome like this be sharper than using a WA lens? I know it won't be as wide, but I'm willing to sacrifice some wideness for sharpness.
  8. I'm looking to go with rechargables for several toys (marine radio, gps and, of course my YS60) and have decided that the eneloops are probably the way to go. So far I've justbeen using the Duracell ProCell non rechargables that we get through my work. I've been looking all over for the eneloops down here in Chile and can't find them anywhere. According to wiki, there are several brands that are just eneloops rebadged as something else. The only ones I've been able to find are the sony's and am going to pick some up tomorrow when I visit the city. Here's a link to the full wiki article: LINK and here's the list:
  9. I asked Matthias Heinrichs about this about a year ago and he was pretty convinced it would be almost impossible, at least with leds. IIRC his argument was along the lines that LEDs are too slow to fire & quench in comparison to the different TTL's to make them a viable solution. It's close, but it still goes connected to a camera via a bulkhead. From the Inon connector out it is a fiber optic connection to the strobe, but in the end you still need a bulkhead. I can see IR maybe working (after all, I 've heard several times that in P&S cameras the best way to go is to block off the camera's internal flash with exposed film to keep visible light from penetrating and letting the IR trigger the strobe), but I doubt RF would (unless you were to build a reciever that goes on the outside of the housing or use RF strobes). But then I don't know as I'm just a beach bum biologist. Yes, it connects to a bulkhead outside the housing and converts the electrical signal from the camera's hotshoe to an optical one that gets transmitted via FO cable to optically triggered strobes (in particular, Inon's). The way I see it, is you still have the bulkhead weakpoint for flooding, You just eliminate the need for a synch cable by replacing it with a FO one (which are cheaper to fix/replace if the cable floods). It would be awesome to have such a device! I am buying a Fantasea housing for my P5000 and was just sending Matthias an email asking about putting one of his bulkheads & iTTL converters in it, but I'd much rather go with a solution like this since I wouldn't have to drill a hole through the housing. While I'm at it, I'll ask him to jump in here.
  10. Exactly. My coolpix struggles from time to time in some macro scenes so I'm ordering the fantasea one to see if it helps. Plus it's only $40, so if it doesn't help, then it's no big loss.
  11. I do think it's worth it since I'm getting a housing for mine, but then it's just my opinion and YMMV. Keep in mind that I'm not to worried about RAW since I have a strobe that I'm carrying over from my older camera and I've been able to do some corrections in PS on my pictures to get them to my satisfaction. The ones that I haven't been happy with, even raw couldn't have helped me (usually phtographer error, but then I'm still learning). Also, lower MP, many argue that that's actually a good thing for these small sensor cameras. I've been fine with the 8MP of my P4 up until now and, while I do like the pictures out of my P5000 much more than my P4, I don't feel that I gain much with the extra 2 MP of the P5000 (topside stuff - I haven't used the P5000 underwater yet). What I do like about the P5000 over the P4 is that it has much more flexibility in the shooting modes and that the housings for it all have better access to the controls than the housing I have for my P4. If you're considering the G10, you should also take a look at the P6000, It's very much like an updated version of the P5000 (think of a G10'ed P5000: specs like a G10, in a "body" you're already familiar with). The main differences between it and the P5000 is that it has a raw format (the infamous non-standard NRW format, but Adobe now supports it on both Mac & Windows platforms as do a few others), a nice 28mm eq. lens, and since you're into MP, 13.5 of them. Iklite's already got a housing for it, and Fantasea and Fix should have theirs out soon (the FIX will be a winner if they use the dome port over the Nikon WA adapter as has been rumored).
  12. First of all, IMHO 15 dives is not enough to start jumping in with a rig. You need to get more experience in the water. A novice diver with a DSLR rig to is an accident waiting to happen. Your diving skillz really need to be second nature before you start concentrating composition, exposure and so on. Second, if you've only done 15 dives are you sure you want to invest about $2000 (not including camera & strobes) to take an DSLR in the water with you? How happy are you with image quality of the P5000 you have for topside pics? I know it's no dslr (I have P5000), but if you're happy enough with it, then then why not get a housing for that, start playing around with that in the water and build on it as you advance. Your options are the Fantasea for $200, the Ikelite for $450-500 and the FIX for $750-900. All will take add on lenses and M67 mount lenses for the Ike & Fix have a very good resale value if you want to sell them to upgrade to a DSLR at some point. There are many strobes that will work well with this camera that would also migrate with you if you do upgrade to a DSLR system later.
  13. Hi Phil, The key to a lot of this is assembling the rig (sealing the housing) in an environment that is dry. Cold air has a lower saturation vapor pressure and will therefore generally be drier than warm air. If you seal cool dry air in the housing, then warm it up, you will have no problems with fogging as the air will will be absorbing all the humidity it can (as a matter of fact, as the temperature increases, the relative humidity will drop if no additional water vapor is added). If you seal the housing in a warmer environment with slightly higher humidity, then as you cool it (without adding water vapor) the relative humidity inside begins to increase and as you approach the saturation pressure, the water vapor will begin to condense on the inside of the housing. I only have a lil compact digicam setup, but did have some problems with fogging. Until recently I had managed to control fogging in it pretty well (recently I've been having problems with my WA conversion lens fogging up) through just silica gel packs and keeping the rig away from direct sunlight. My current setup routine consists in sealing the housing in a the dryest environment I can find. Usually at home or in my office, the night before when it's cooler and as far away from the humidity as I can get. I've seen recomendations for asembling in an air conditioned house or car (so that the camera and all the air in the housing is cool and dry), but neither one is really an option for me. When I put the housing together, I also fill the empty space within the housing with as many silica gel packs as I can fit without stuffing them in. Up until the dive, I keep the rig in the coolest place I can find and out of direct sunlight. As for my latest problem, with the WA lens foging up, it has only been occurring recently. I'm guessing because it's almost summer here and getting rather warm topside and the water in central Chile is still pretty cool (about 15 deg C). So I figure that the rig is warming up while on the boat and then when I get in the cool water, and the lens cools, the moisture condenses and fogs up the lens (usually after about 10 minutes or so - similar to what's happening to you taking into account the smaller volume of my setup). It was suggested to me (by another Wetpixel member) that I fill a small cooler with seawater from the dive site and leave my assembled rig in that for as long as I can before the dive in order for all the innerds of the rig to equalize to the temperature to the water. I haven't tried this yet, but it sounds reasonable. I even have a cooler with a small refrigeration unit that plugs into the 12V current provided by a cigarrete lighter on my boat. Next time out, I'm going to fill that with seawater, drop my rig in and plug it in during the ride out to the site. I've even thought about leaving all the pieces (camera without battery & battery door open, WA lens, and open housing) in a ziploc bag or large tupperware with some large silica gel packs in my fridge overnight in order to purge all the water vapor from it before putting it all together. Hope some of this helps at least give you some ideas to finding a solution that works for you. Good luck.
  14. I've seen the threads on housing/lens port fogging issues and have been able to keep that very well controled. I have a Sea&Sea lens made for the PT-009 housing I got from the S&S closeout page a few months back and am using it on the Fantasea housing from my Coolpix P4. The other day while I was diving at Punta de Tralca (central Chile) my WA conversion lens started fogging. I'm sure it was the lens becasue when I noticed the fogging on the screen, I turned the camera around and could see the silver dollar sized disk of haze on the inside of the lens. I removed the lens and the housing's lens port was fine. Obviously I can't toss any silica gel packets in it, and don't know of anything that I could apply to the outside of the lens that would keep it from fogging on the inside. Anybody have any ideas? Also while I was in the water, the outer most rubber ring was loose, as though I would be able to screw it off (so I just tightened it back down). Should I try to unscrew it in a nice dry area (like a walk in fridge) and see if I can purge any humidity from inside the lens?
  15. I just posted this in response to you post int he other thread. Sorry, I missed this one: Boa sorte
  16. Yea I've heard of that adapter, but never actually seen one. Yes it will work with those lenses (it's made to work with Inon AD mount lenses like the ones you listed), but I'm not 100% sure if it will work with the G9 housing. Most of the Ike housings that it is known to work for list it as an accessory at Ikelite's site, but it's not listed on the G9 page. OTOH, you can also see it at reef photo (LINK). If you scroll down to the "Customers who bought this product also purchased..." section it lists the Ike G9 housing & short port. I'm guessing it should work, but your best bet would be to ask them. The guys at reef are better than Google when it comes to UW photo gear.
  17. I'm not sure if WD40 dries without leaving a residue or not. It will probably work for cleaning up the threads, but for the contacts you're going to want to get a can of electrical contact cleaner. It's basically alcohol with an aerosol propellant that will clean the contacts for you and dry without leaving any residue that could cause a short. I use a contact cleaner on a tide gauge (that is constantly submerged in at least 6 ft of water) that I have to do maintenance on every 6 months and so far, after 5 years, no problems. It even does a god job of cleaning up the threads and getting the lime & Al2O3 off.
  18. When the G9 housing first came out, didn't Ike do/say the same thing? Was it not until a few months later that Ike came out with the short port for WA on the G9 housing? Maybe with enough demand they'll do it. In wetpixel's video interview with the fisheye rep at DEMA (LINK), it sounds like the new FIX housing for the P6000 will have a dome option. The audio gets really bad and hard to follow, but after listening a couple of times, that's what I understood. The way he's waving the camera around with the Nikon WA adapter, I wonder if the dome would go over that.
  19. My bad. It's the EWC-90 for the 1050 that's in stock at Amazon. Sorry about that. Froogle (google product search) found it at Tristate, but it doesn't specify if it's in stock. LINK
  20. Did a quick search & found it in stock through amazon for $160
  21. It was about 4 months old at the time. The camera was rinsed in warm fresh water whenever it came back from the sea, but no maintenance was ever done to the seals. Like I said, it flooded after abouit 12 hours underwater while the spec's say to submerge it for no more than an hour at a time. All's well though. Pentax still honored the warranty & either replaced it with a reurb or reapaired it (I never got a close enough look a the first one to tell if it was the same camera that came back or not) & now the housing is on it's way from the US.
  22. My boss has a WP30. Great little camera with great macro. He also just bought a scuba housing for it (LINK) made by seatool. You can get them through Reef Photo. My bosses WP30 did flood. We were using it to do some time lapse photog. of an experiment inside an aquarium. After about 12 hours it just stopped working, apparently due to water damage. Pentax replaced it and now we use it with the housing (or will as soon as the housing arrives - it's still in transit to Chile). According to the manual, it's only supposed to be sumerged for about an hour or so. As far as maintenance, pretty much all we do with it is give it a good wash in warm fresh water like you would with a housing.
  23. I din't have housings for either of those cameras, but if you're interested in a Sea&Sea housing fro the D200, Sea&sea has brand new ones on closeout for $1650 LINK. That's almost $900 of the original price
  24. I'd stay away from anything with more than 4x zoom if you think you'll want to add a wide angle to your setup someday. The reason is that longer zoom lenses tend to be longer in size when at the telephoto end. If you're using a wide angle lens, then you're going to want as little zoom as possible (since zooming in wil cancel out the effect of the wide anlge lens) and with the higher zoom cameras, that puts the end of the camera's lens too far away from the lens port of the housing and you end up getting vignetting (dark corners in the pictures). No matter what camera you decide on, there're probably a few strobes that will work for it. If the camera does not have a hotshoe, there are several optically triggered strobes that work very well wide range of cameras. I'd suggest you look for a Canon Powershot A570. I've never used one, but I've seen it get very good comments from UW photographers and seen some great pictures taken with it. I know it's discontinued, but it has just about everything you're going to need for UW photo, and canon doesn't offer a housing for its replacements. It's a great learing camera to get you though the basics and pretty into some more advanced control of the camera. Not too long ago they were available on amazon for just over $300 with the canon housing. But the price seems to be going up on these and they're now about $250 + $160 for the housing. I'm sure if you looked around you could still find a new one for about $150 Second to that, I like the Nikon Coolpix P5100. I have a P5000 (don't have a housing for it though) and love it. These cameras have have all the same controls as the Canon A series, plus hotshoes so they can use an even wider range of strobes. They also have threaded lens rings on them so when you're using them topside you can add on lenses for more zoom or wider angles. You should be able to find one for about $250 + a housing from Fantasea for about $200 (IIRC it was $209 last I looked - but doesn't let you use the hotshoe) or Ikelight for $450-$500. But be warned, it looks like Nikon is replacing the P5100 with the P6000 in the next month or so and, if the rumors are true, this replacement has better specs for UW (mainly a wider lens but it will also have raw for more advanced post processing in photoshop). Once released, it will at least drive the price of the P5100 down.
  25. I don't know how to answer your first question. It's rating is based on testing they've done to reliably assure that the housing will work up to this depth. By working I mean that the housing will keep the camera dry and all the buttons & controls won't start to stick. If you go somewhat deeper with it, the camera will probably stay dry (to a certain point), but due to the excess pressure some controls may star having problems. Yes you can use strobes with both housings. With the canon you're restricted to using optically triggered strobes that will slave off the camera's internal flash. With the Ike you can fire strobes using the G9's hotshoe. The advantages of using a wired connection over an optical one are better battery life of the camera (since you're not needing to recharge the flash), less heat inside the housing (will reduce fogging), and a greater selection of stobes in the market. The main advantages to the Ike: 1. Threadded lens ports. Both of the ports are already threadded to accept add on lenses (wide anlge or macro). There are a few lens adapters that you can buy for the canon housing, but they'll cost extra. 2. Long & short lens ports. The short port will allow you to use wide angle addon lenses without vignetting (or at least greatly reduced). Granted the short port costs extra, the Canon doesn't offer this and wide angle lenses have been said to be "unusable" with them. 3. The flash bulkhead. This will allow you to fire strobes through the G9's hotshoe. If you get Ike strobes, then you can even use them in TTL. 4. It's an Ike. I've never used one, but from what I hear, their support & customer service is excellent. The main advantages of the Canon: 1. It's much less expensive. 2. It's significantly more compact.
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