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richgarrett

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About richgarrett

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    Sea Nettle

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  1. The old Canon FL Tilt shift lens has been converted to work on Nikon Bodies. worked fine because it has an manual aperture ring. the new TSE tilt shift lenses have electronic aperture controlled by the camera body and would be VERY DIFFICULT to convert to nikon. While the Nikon 85mm T/E is a very nice lens it would be VERY difficult to use UW. The lens is NOT stopped down by the body. to use the lens, you have to focus at wide open, press a button on the lens to stop down, then shoot the photo. OK on a tripod, but pretty difficult UW, IMHO The Canon TSE lenses have the aperture fully coupled to the camera body, electronically. one of the justifications for switching to Canon was to use the TSE lens - I own all three (24, 45 and 90 mm) and love them. I frequently use the 90mm to shoot butterflies from different angles and still have the whole critter in focus. with a normal macro lens you can only shoot from a 90 deg angle. I would love to use UW for macro. the ability to shift the focal plane (Scheimflug movement) would be great for macro. imaging shooting a nudibranch from a 45 deg angle and having the whole body in focus! the only way I can imagine making it work would be to use the lens in a large dome port with some sort of flexible cable connecting the body controls to the lens knobs. Rich
  2. a strobe will put out light past the water visibility. I have seen times when I could see another divers strobe flash and I couldn't see them. BUT: when shooting a subject, the strobe light has to travel twice the distance to the subject (to the subj and back). light intensity drops off rapidly in water depending on the water conditions. so if you are shooting a nice red fish at a distance of 10 ft. your strobe light travels 10' to the fish and reflects back 10' to you. you will have lost nearly all the red in the fish and have a very disapointing photograph. plus you will have 20ft of water to absorb the strobes output and there will not be very much reflected light reaching your film/digital sensor. underwater guide numbers are not accurate, but the principle does apply. in air the GN = distance X fstop. a strobe with a GN of 16 will give the right exposure at 1' @ f16 2' @ f8 4' @ f4 8' @ f2 reflected difuse light (as opposed to light reflected off a mirrored surface) obeys the 1/d squared law. something like the distance from light reflected subj to film 1' 1 2' 1/4 4' 1/16 this shows up in the GN chart since each fstop is 1/2 the amount of light as the next fstop. i.e f16 is 1/2 of f11 and 1/4 of f8. the guide number of a strobe underwater is reduced by many factors (water condition, refractive index of water/strobe surface, etc) and is usually about 1/2 the GN in air, OR LESS. if you are diving in Palau with about 200' vis the UW GN would be about 1/2 the Air GN. but on a summer day in Puget Sound with 15' vis it would be much less. HOPE this wan't too technical with too much math. the bottom is for better photos get CLOSER to your subject! rich
  3. I am trying to decide between the Z-220 and D-2000 with Optical Converter to use on my housed Canon D60/20D cameras. in the absence of true TTL strobes I am interested in how well the External Auto mode of the D-2000 Strobe works. I been shooting Manual in the past with Sea & Sea YS-350's with the guide number controller with good results, but sometimes miss good shots when it is the first shot of a different size subject. the external auto mode seems like an attractive alternative. seems like external auto should be pretty close on most subject and the D-2000 has the ability to dial in +_ exposure compensation to correct any error. I would love to see some test shots.
  4. I have used this lens to shoot Flag Blennies in St Vincent. it was VERY difficult to use, but did work. The lens has a fixed focus distance for any magnification. I racked the lens out to the max for my 100mm port and was shooting at about 3X magnification. the focus was VERY close to the port which made lighting VERY difficult! As with other methods of high mag macro, finding the subject and getting good focus was a real challenge, but I did get some shots. would love to try Pygmy Seahorses with this lens. rich
  5. I have two tiffen 52mm +4 diopters on ebay. take a look at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=3861000025 rich
  6. Mark, My concerns with the optical converter route is 1. can I trigger dual strobes from the Optical Converter D? how? just two optical cords or do I need some kind of special dual cord? I only use one strobe 95% of the time, but do like dual strobes for WA photogrphy. 2. The Sea & Sea only has two wires going to the Nikonos V bulkhead. is this enough to work with the Optical Converter? I know that it was made to work with Nikon/Nikonos cameras with 5 wires - quench, etc. rich
  7. I have a Sea & Sea D30/D60 housing and have been shooting with a D60. Planing on jury rigging the housing to use my NEW 10D. rich
  8. I love the 1.6 Crop with the D30/D60/10D/20D - on LAND, but underwater i Find it problematic. the 1D and 1D markII have a 1.3 Crop and of course the 1Ds and 1Ds markII are full frame CCD's. my problems uw are that I shoot mostly macro and for many years was 99.9% happy shooting with a Nikon 105mm macro lens. loved the working distance as it makes shooting shy critters much easier. could shoot from subjects from say 1/2" to 6" and get nice shots. unfortunately a canon 100mm on my D60 looks like a 160 mm lens and significantly reduces the range of subjects I can shoot. about 3" subject is the limit. have switched to using a 50mm, which looks like a 80mm on the camera, BUT with significantly less working distance. I find 1:1 much harder to do with shy subjects and much harder to light. I love my 1D mark II, and really cannot justify the 1Ds mark II, BUT - I think that a 1D could be GREAT uw, as my 100mm macro would be the cats meow, again. again the same goes for WA photography. I don't see any of the improvements in the mark II cameras being that significant in UW photography. who cares about frame rate? the 1D and 1Ds have pretty great AF systems which is improved in the mark II cameras. UW is the one place where a full frame CCD is of great value, IMHO.
  9. I am swiching to Inon strobes, and am having trouble desiding which way to go. while the D-2000 is optically triggered, Inon makes an Optical Converter which is basically a small strobe that plugs into the Nikonos V socket and will connect by optical cable to the D-2000. has anyone out there seen or used one of these optical converters? I am leaning toward the D-2000 because it has an Automatic mode. Manual strobe has worked well for me, but I am sometimes off on exposure when shooting a new subject that is a different size form what I had been shooting. the A mode, would greatly improve the hit rate and the D-2000 has the ability to dial in exposure composition. Thanks, in advance for your help rich
  10. Sea & Sea now has focus gears for two different Canon 100mm macro lenses. the USM lens and the NON-USM lens. The gear for the NON-USM lens is very long - about 4 inches and does mate with the gear in the housing. the focus gear for the USM lens is very short - about 2 inches and ONLY mates with the gear on the custom flat port. it will not reach back to the gear in the body. It was made this way because the Back end of the USM 100mm macro lens is larger in diameter than the S&S gear diamater. If you want to use the focus on the camera body, you will have to get a NON-USM 100mm Macro Lens and the correct gear. btw, I have one of the NON-USM gears that I can sell. Rich
  11. I am very interested in details on how you did this. Have the housing and would love to shoot a 20D. Thanks rich garrett
  12. I have also thought about this approach. The canon EOS system requires 6 pins for ETTL. so the Ike and Nikonos connectors cannot be used. The europeans are using a 6pin connector called the S6 for the EOS strobe housings. an interesting feasability test could be done by placing the camera and ST-E2 on one side of a large aquarium and the slave stobes on the opposite side. a Nice 125 gal should work. The most important feature, IMHO, should be access to all the controls on the ST-E2. full flash ratio would be pretty cool! rich
  13. Does anyone have any experience with housed canon strobes (550EX) with a housed D60 camera? I know that UW-Germany and possibly SeaCam offer housings for the 550EX strobe. both require a proprietary S6 connector. Is there any solution for my Sea & Sea D60 housing?
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