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albert kok

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Everything posted by albert kok

  1. First pics I took with the Olympus 8mm F 1.8/EPL5/PT EP 10 combo and Zen 25 mm extension ring last week during our Red Sea trip. Ikelite D125 strobes with optical adapters. 4 inch Precision dome. ISO 200, F 1/25, F 8.0
  2. Havent tried out the lense in open water yet. Like I said, on first sight I feel that there is not SO much difference with my old Panasonic 8mm F 3.5. Here are some preliminary results, Look at the two pics of the plastic bottle with Oly set at F7.1 and 1.8 in a water tank. Bye.. http://www.albertkokuw.nl/420517523
  3. Just received the new Olympus 8mm 1.8F FE. The lense (which is 28 mm longer that the Panasonic 8mm 3.5 F) seems to fit nicely in my PEN PT EP10 housing with a Zen 25 mm extension ring and the 4 inch dome (EPL5 inside). The position in the dome looks about the same as with the Pana. Without the extension I use the Panasonic 8mm 3.5 F like I did before. Sofar the topside pictures taken with these two set ups (Oly with extension and Pana without) look not so much different.Nice and crisp.
  4. Selling Panasonic Lumix 3.5F 8mm fish eye, mint condition, 450 US dollars (400Euro) .Payment by Paypall Amsterdam The Netherlands. Shipping costs around 25 US dollars. Please send a PM if interested
  5. I think this new Oly 8mm lense will work with old PEN housings and cameras (like the EPL5). And a 25 mm extension ring. The only problem is the dome. The new Oly FE lense in 80mm long, the older Lumix 8 mm lens is 52 mm long (28 mm difference), This means that even with the 25 mm extension ring the front of the Oly lense will be around 3 mm closer to the dome. Which may cause some corner unsharpness. Cheers Al
  6. Hi Hope this information is useful. What I know about the new Oly 8mm FE f 1/1.8 lense sofar is: -the lense fits on the older PEN housings using the ZEN ER-EP25 extension ring and ZEN DP-100-EP dome lense. -some top side pictures show excellent performance (e.d. depth of field, corner sharpness) even at the widest aperture. -some UW pictures taken in darker spaces like caves with natural light looked spectacular to me. Its hard however to judge from these pictures technical details such as corner sharpness, depth of field, especially at the widest aperture. The type of dome lense could be a critical factor here. I believe that the Zen dome worked very well with the older Pana FE 8 mm f 1/3.5 lense. Not sure if this holds also for the longer Oly 8mm FE 1/8 lense with the extension ring. Possibly some people have the opportunity to run some comparative tests? Cheers
  7. Jack I understand that this new lense will also fit on the older PEN housings using the ZEN 25 mm extension ring and the 4 inch dome port used for the Lumix 8mm lense?
  8. I liked this shot taken by Henley Spiers with a Oly/Pan 8mm combo and flash, confirming in my opinion the nice CFWA quality of this system. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10100851880767842&set=gm.10152777218171017&type=1
  9. Why not go for the ikelite housing for the D7100 (or the recent D7200 housing, that also takes the D7100). You might even find a good second-hand Ikelite housing for the D7100. There are leak detectors on the market for the Ike housing. Good luck!
  10. Thanks Ken for sharing this experience with us in such vivid detail. 'To err is only human'. Yes indeed the vacuüm is a sentinel against locks not firmly closed. Once it is stable you could even dive with unloosened clamps. Cheers.
  11. I agree with most of these comments. Workshops are a nice way to visit the better diving sites with people that have the same interest. As an UW photographer you don’t want to be part of a diving group that rushes along the reefs with no interest at all for photography. With a dive master that gives you a difficult time when your distance between him or your buddy is more than 5 meters. Individual freedom to move around and follow your own plan is important for the UW photographer, of course within the safety limits. The more luxury live-aboards like the vessels that operate in the Red Sea, can easily take around 20 divers. This indeed is a lot of people, especially when all tables in the living room are constantly occupied with Apple power books. Or if you depend on Zodiacs to drop you or pick you up at the diving site. Personally I prefer the land-based workshops, with one or two smaller boats that take you out every day to diving sites in the vicinity. And for individualists (like me) there is always the 'no workshop' option. Organize your own trip to an interesting place with a good reputation among UW photographers. It will also cost you less money.
  12. I loved the Turtle. Whow, what a perfect design of its shield.
  13. OK it was just a friendly comment, go ahead and enjoy! -;
  14. This gadget is made by a firm called 'jolly logic'..indeed for rocketry. The mode one altimeter costs round 45 US dollars. It also has a real time option; an online reading of the altitude in fts or meters. Another option is maximum altitude. The more expensive model altitude 3 indeed can be controlled with your Iphone.You can charge the battery via the USB port of your computer. 17 strokes of your vacuum pump corresponds with around 1800 meters altitude; which I think is around 180 mbar underpressure, There is some variation in the altitude reading dependent on the ambient temperature. A 10 degrees Celsius drop or rise in temperature will probably give you an altitude reading of 50 meter higher or lower than the preset 1800 meters, respectively. Thats is around 10 mbar variation.
  15. Some discussions seem to be never ending. Llke: is FX format superior to DX format? And is a more expensive prime lens (Sigma 15mm or 10.5 mm Nikon) superior to a cheaper fish-eye zoom (Like the Tok 10-17mm)? If you look at the (few) topside test results comparing Sigma with Tok 10-17 on a full frame camera, there seems to be no clear 'winner'. See for instance, http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49728&p=327452 To my knowledge, there have been no no critical tests yet comparing these two types of fish-eye lenses underwater. Using the same camera, dome, settings etc.
  16. Commercial leak-detectors are based on the principle that a barometric underpressure (or: partial vacuüm) that is sucked in your housing with a hand pump, rises above a critical level. In that case a red LED on the detector starts blinking: probably a leak! If you already have a vacuüm pump, but no detector, a mini altimeter (basically a small barometer translating mbars in feets of altitude) can be very helpful. At least if you a have a transparent Ikelite housing. I use this little and cheap device ALTIMER ONE that I stick to the inside of the Ikelite housing. After the vacuüm is established (around 20 strokes) you read out the pressure in feets altitude (say 4000 fts). Giving you an objective indication of the pressure inside your housing. So you want to be sure that this reading doesnt change, say in the next couple of hours. I haven't yet checked the altimeter reading during a dive. Its possible that the air pressure inside the housing may drop a bit, because of the decrease of water temperature (and cooler air inside the housing) with increasing depth. This will give you a higher reading on the altimeter. No reason to panic. Only a sudden lower reading on the altimeter means trouble. Apparently water is entering the housing, which causes a rise of the inside pressure Have fun!.
  17. Looks like you have thought it over very well! The large dome would also do for snorkeling, and over-under shots. Shark under, boat above surface, small aperture, focus on shark, manual flash half power.
  18. It depends on the Oceanics. if they come in very close or prefer to keep their distance. A zoomed fish-eye (e.g. Tok 10-17) or rectilinear lens (Tok 12-24 or comparable) gives you flexibility to adapt to the conditions. For really close encounters I prefer the fisheye. On Cat island its probably more difficult to find your right position floating in the water than on Bimini where you can kneel comfortably on the white sandy bottom (thats with the great hammerheads). The classic Oceanic shot of course is the Oceanic moving in with a full pilot fish escort. And....with some nice sun beams penetrating the surface. Have fun! (-;
  19. Yeah I guess its a question of personal taste. if you already have the Tok there is no real need to switch to a prime lense, since the quality of the lenses is about the same at 15mm. And if you own both a DX and FX camera (like some people) its nice to use the Tok on the DX and have it as as a back up for the FX.
  20. Hi I guess you have seen this test? http://www.360pano.de/en/tokina-sigma-nikon.html and this: http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/sigma-15mm-tokina-fisheye-review The Tokina wil work fine but you will get a circular image for settings 10-12 mm. Which (I guess) you can handle by cropping out the central part. I am not sure if a port extension is a solution. Maybe the Kenko 1.4 Teleconverter could help to get rid of the vignetting at 10-12 mm?
  21. Hi, some feedback on the 45 degree viewfinder that I just tried out on my Ikelite housing. First, to install it your need the Nauticam 33103 viewfinder mounting ring for Ikelite housings. Mounting the ring with the viewfinder is rather easy, and in this respect I found the instruction video by Kelli of Bluewater very useful. My first opinion is that this viewfinder is a nice improvement (compared wth the Ikelite standard finder) because of its clear enlarged view of the object you are focused on. I think it can be very useful, not only for macro but also for fish-eye shooters that like to focus of very close subjects (like in CFWA shots). If you decide to switch back to a standard (flat) viewfinder during your diving trip its better to stick to the Nauticam standard model (Optical Viewfinder 0.66x) instead of re-installing your old Ike viewfinder. The negative part concerns the ergonomics after you have attached the viewfinder to the housing, First, handling of the push buttons left and right of the viewfinder can be somewhat problematical, if you rotate the viewfinder. Second, inspection of of the full LED screen on the back of the housing (e.g. to inspect the result of your UW shot) is only possible if you tilt the housing in a slightly forward position. See the pics for clarification.
  22. Send me an Email: albertkok69@gmail.com if you have this finder for sale Cheers
  23. Hi I appreciate your sharing of the Ambon pictures. The objects are nice but look like cropped and underexposed. And there seems to be something wrong with the pictures that I dont fully understand. First, why did you use a snoot with a fish eye lense? Thats for macro. Second, the background is dark and unsharp. What were your shutter speed,aperture and strobe settings? Good luck! Albert
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