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albert kok

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Everything posted by albert kok

  1. One more additional point. With a built-in flash as optical trigger you will loose the TTL option (which is, by the way, OK for me ). To get around the Ikelite pop-up flash/Nikon problem, some people constructed clever little gadgets, such as micro LEDs attached on the hotshoe of the Ikelite DLSR housings. And flat enough to fit inside the Ike's housing. Like Hedwig Dieraert in Belgium (see: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44632) and Glowdive in Spain (and rtrski). But they never put them in production, I guess because their gadgets only worked with specific strobes or cables. But recently Sea&Sea brought an optical converter on the market mounted on the camera's hotshoe that converts the electronic TTL signal into a light signal. So less risk of draining the camera's battery by using the built-in flash. The converter is rather bulky so it would not fit at all in the Ikelite SLR housing. But it does fit nicely in the spare space above the hotshoe of their own housing.
  2. Ikelite does sell optical adapter for their strobes: http://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/ikelite-fiber-optic-adapter. I use it for my Olympus housing. So they already made one step!
  3. Most underwater housings equipped with fiber optic cables use the built-in flash of the camera to trigger the strobes. Ikelite DSLR housings for the Nikon SLR camera’s however use an electrical TTL circuit connected with the hot shoe that transmits the electrical signal via a bulk-head and sync cables to their strobes. In these housings the Nikon pop-up flash cannot be used to trigger a fiber cable. The housing just doesn’t allow the flash to pop-up. Ikelite does sell an optical adapter that fires any of their strobes for housings fitted with fiber optic cables. But not for their own housings. Sea&Sea new MDX –D7100 housing does have this possibility for the Nikon D7100. And of course the new Nauticam D7100 housing. I wonder if Ikelite could not follow the same strategy? And offer their clients a (future) DSLR housing that provides both optical and electrical cable bulkheads. What you need first, is a small extension of top of the housing that doesn’t block the pop-up flash anymore..
  4. Strobes fired via fiber optic cables transmit light from the camera built-in flash to the external strobes via a slave system. Ikelite DSLR housings for the Nikon SLR camera’s however have an electrical TTL circuit connected with the hot shoe that transmits the electrical signal via a bulk-head and sync cables to their strobes. In these housings the built in pop-up flash cannot be used to trigger a fiber cable. The housing just doesn’t allow the flash to pop-up. Ikelite does sell an optical adapter that fires any of their strobes for housings fitted with fiber optic cables. But not for their own housings. Sea and Sea new MDX –D7100 housing does have this possibility for the Nikon D7100. I wonder if Ikelite could not follow the same strategy? And offer their clients a (future) DSLR housing that permits both optical and cable bulkheads. What you need first, is a small extension of top of the housing that doesn’t block the pop-up flash anymore..
  5. The second picture below is taken in the same conditions, but now with Tok set at 10mm, F11, 1/50. Shark at 1 meter and divers below at around 5 meters. Next month I hope to show you some pictures taken with Oly/Pana and the 4 inch dome taken in similar conditions.
  6. Very nice shots. I liked the third picture most: the shrimp with the purple scissors. 'Mes felicitations'!
  7. I tried the 73X3mm O-ring today. It definitely makes a difference. Its easier to mount the 4 inch Precision dome, and remove it later from the Oly housing than with the 74X3 mm O-ring. Highly recommended!
  8. Hi, for people who don’t want to take their heavy and expensive lap top on a diving trip, a tablet could be a solution. I bought the Nexus7, a cheap and ultralight 16 GB Android tablet that connects with Wifi (there is also a 32 GB version). To get this set up working could be a pain, but finally it will (probably) work and satisfy your needs. If you can find the right apps! First I downloaded a free app called Nexus Media Importer (NMI). This app allows you to stream and transfer music, video, photos and documents from a USB flash drive or card reader to your Nexus. The card reader needs to be connected with a special OTG cable to the mini USB port of the Nexus. When you import your pictures with the NMI you first select the folder or files on your card that you wish to transfer, and then select the destination folder in the tablet. Its also possible to add and name new destination folders in the directory. Another useful app is Android file manager, that makes it easier to search for folders or create subfolders in the tablets directory. Both JPG and Raw files can be transferred from your card reader to Internal storage, either individually or as a folder. But for inspecting the raw files on the Nexus screen I use another app called RawDroid. Its also possible to transfer your pictures or folders with the ‘Share’ option to media like Drive or Dropbox on your tablet. This could be a good option to export and download the Nexus files to your PC. A second option is to download the app AirDroid, and use your Wifi connection either at home or at your diving location. Finally, there is a Photoshop app called Photoshop Touch 1.4. for Nexus 7 that allows you to do some (I suppose modest) photoshopping of your pictures during your dive trip. But I think that Nexus7 might not be the best platform for picture editing.
  9. Yes..if the underpressure remains stable you can be pretty certain that there are no leaks that could spoil your dive on the dive following the test. The underpressure in the housing created on land sort of mimics the relative higher pressure of the water column around your housing during the beginng of the dive. Keep in mind that most water leaks and floodings occur at shallow depth.
  10. Hi JP Perhaps a somewhat late reaction to your comment on the smaller sensor size enhancing the sharpness of the Pana shots. I think that overall, the topside results showed only small differences in sharpness of foreground and backgound objects between the Pana and Tok pictures, at identical apertures. I assumed this was because the crop factor (1.3) multiplied with the smaller focal length of the Pana lens created almost equivalent focal lengths, and consequenty identical field sizes (or: angles of view) of the Pana and Tok images. Hope I was right .. A note of depth of field and sensor size. its interesting to calculate the dept of field of the two camera/lens combos with the DOF calculator I found on Internet http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html Focal length 10 mm for the Nikon lense and 8 mm for the Oly lense, same aperture F8, and distance to subject 15 cm. Total DOF was 7.07 cm for the Nikon/Tok and 8.6 cm for the Oly/Pana combo. When you insert in the calculator arbitrary identical focal lengths (12 mm), and apertures (F8) at 20 cm distance, total DOF becomes larger for Nikon (8.74 cm) than for Oly (6.42). This means that with identical apertures and focal lengths the bigger sensor of Nikon yields a larger not smaller DOF than the smaller sensor of Oly. It also suggests that the greater DOF of the Oly/Pana combo (with real focal lenghts) must have resulted from the smaller focal length of the Pana lense. But it must be kept in mind that these DOF differences can be easily changed by selecting slightly different subject distances: for instance selecting 13 cm instead of 15 cm brings the DOF of Oly/Pan down from 8.6 cm to 6.28 cm. The same holds for selecting a different aperture: a larger aperture for Oly/Pan of 5.6 will also bring down the DOF considerably from 8,6 tot 5.86 cm. Cheers A
  11. Looks like a nice solution! I noticed that Alex Mustard also recommended the 'direct grip' method of the Oly housing in an earlier Wetpixel article http://wetpixel.com/articles/alex-mustard-reviews-olympus-om-d-e-m5/P3 The only problem is that a direct grip may become more difficut to accomplish when two big strobes are attached to the small housing. Then it would be nice to have the handles available for extra support. Al
  12. Hi back again with some new underwater tests! Not in open water (yet), but in a large transparent plastic container filled with fresh water. This created the visual impression that my target, a conch, was floating freely in the water. This time I had packed the camera's in their respective housings. Nikon D7000 in an ikellte housing with 5 inch Precision dome (see right) and Olympus in a PT EP10 housing with a 4 inch Precision dome (see left). Tokina again set at 10mm and Pana 8 mm. Shutter speed 1/40, aperture F4, ISO 400, Single focusing point. Distance between the front of the domes to the conch was 10 cm. But because of the smaller size of the Olympus dome the Pana lens was around 2 cm closer to the object, which explains the slightly larger image.
  13. Dear Bill You certainly added some useful gadgets! thanks for the O ring advice, Ill give the 73X3mm ring a try first. Yeah, I think a removable second lever would be nice, but probably costly. Maybe something for a future Olympus housing? The vacuum leak is also an useful addition. I have one on my Ikelite which was easy to install, because you can screw it an unused function button. I noticed that your sentry needs a separate drill in the back of the housing. I guess you have described the costs on your website?
  14. I get it, . -Another solution would be a a removable 'shift on' extension that is attached with a small screw or clamp to the red shutter lever. But as I said earlier, direct handling of the Oly housing could still be an option. Its easy to get a grip on the housing with your right hand in the space left between the housing and right tray handle. Or you might want to take the housing down without the burden of the tray and strobes, with a filter or for shooting video with natural light..In the latter case you will have the index finger in the ideal position for handling the red shutter lever, and the thumb for handling the REC and/or Fn buttons. You could even think of taken the Oly setup without tray down together with your bigger camera plus strobes..and switch between cameras, for instance if you are nice and stable on a flat surface like a sandy bottom. -Personally I dont mind the manual trigger setting, but I'm sure some people will appreciate the TTL option offered by the Heinrichs adapter. From the description I understood that it has a Nikonos connector and Sea and Sea strobes? It would then probably not work with the Ikelite DS substrobes -final point:I noticed that there is a ball chain attached to the LCD hood on the back of Olympus housing on your second picture, This must be some gadget of the earlier version of the Oly housing, since it is not on the back of the PT-EP10 model I bought. Here the hood is secured with a small tread on the housing. Regards Al.
  15. Hi Bill Two further questions for clarification: -why the Heinrichs adapter? Is there an improvement with regard to to the Ikelite fiber optic adapters and fiber optic cables setting I illustrated above (with the 4 inch dome) -I think it would be better to have a replaceable long handle In the Oly housing for handling of the shutter with tray and strobes .The current red handle is nice in case you want to handle the housing directly without the tray and strobes. For instance, in natural light and with a red filter
  16. Hi Bill, the adapter plate looks really nice. I just used the central hole and drilled a second hole in the tray aligned with one of the outer holes in the housing base plate. I also liked your extension of the shutter release handle. Did you glue it on? That would make it impossible to remove it later. Bluewater already advised me on the silicone grease. I guess the Ikelite grease would be OK. Thnks!
  17. Here I mounted the camera on a smaller Ikelite tray, the 9523.62 model. The fit is much better, but the problem remains: the control buttons are too far from the right-hand handle. So direct handling of the housing with the right hand still seems be the best option.
  18. Ikelite flat port for long lense, model #5505.58 as new with cover, 25 Euro plus shipping in Europe (around 6.50 Euro) SOLD!
  19. could you ship it to the Netherlands?
  20. I think I saw the same ad..is that the #9523.32 model? Looks good, can you send it to Netherlands?
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