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Posts posted by Lasongo

  1. Thank ya'll for the info on the spacing and setup.  Ideally, I'd love to proceed with a Sony TC, as would also use it for topside stuff.  However, I just noticed that it looks like Nauticam doesn't currently offer a N100 extension in 20mm...only 30mm and above.

    I currently have the Nauticam 35.5mm N100 to N120 Port Adapter.

    However, Nauticam does offer a 55mm N100 to N120 Port Adapter.  Do ya'll think that would work with the Sony 1.4x TC, as @Gudge shared the measurement is 17mm.  That would be a 19.5mm difference (55mm - 35.5mm)

    Do ya'll think that would work instead of scouring the internet for a mythical N100 20mm extension?

  2. 2 hours ago, Phil Rudin said:

    Hello Julian, 

    As Senior Reviewer for UWPMAG.com I have posted more reviews on lenses for Sony full frame cameras than another brand. I have also used and reviewed WWL-1& WWL-1B, I also own and used WACP-C  in a review. In addition I have used WACP-1 and WACP-2. Several of the lenses I have reviewed like Rokinon 14mm and 18mm don't appear on Nauticam's port chart or another port chart I am aware of. I own both the 12-24mm F/ & F2.8 lenses you addressed in your original post. Among others I have used 100mm, 140mm, 8" and 8" compact, 200m, 230mm, 240mm and 305mm domes in combination with a verity of housings and camera brands.

    If you go to UWPMAG.com, click on back issues and type my name into the search engine you will get a list of over 100 reviews and you can chose the lens reviews that may interest you. This is a free PDF download and no adverts will be sent to you. all listed in the many reviews about Sony products. You may want to read a few of these to help make a well informed choice. 

    Regarding wet wide lenses like WACP-C and others with "kit" type lenses my experience is that wet wides outperform land lenses with a dome in most case given like starting points. Regarding the Canon 8-15 I have been using it now for about seven years with Sony FF cameras. For me it is two very different lenses in one. The circular end is loved or loathed by most and for those that use it the big issue is  wether to display photos in 1:1 or in 3:2 format. The 15/14mm end gives a full frame image as you know and suffered from the same distortion as other 15/16mm fisheyes on full frame. For me the tele converter is extra glass that allows you to use the lenses and remain full frame but not as wide which again appeals to some and not to others. 



    @Phil Rudin thank you so much for the suggestion to check the back issues, I will definitely read through some of those this evening!  My main concern is shooting large animals (primarily whales) in questionable visibility (20ft max) which means I need to get very close.  When shooting with my old rig (D500 w/ 10-17), that wasn't much of an issue at 10-12ish.  I really don't like the circular fisheye look, so I'm stuck shooting at 15 right now and am just looking for alternatives.

    Thanks for the suggestion regarding the past reviews!

  3. 12 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    One option is to pair the 8-15 with a 1.4x and you could zoom between 15mm ( approx 11mm on lens) and 21mm.  This will give you a horizontal field of 144 - 102°  So full frame fisheye to approximately the field of view of a 14mm rectilinear. 

    The other option is various flavours of the WACP with the recommended lenses, the WACP-C and WACP-1 with the 28-70 Sony lens gives the equivalent of a 13-40mm rectilinear lens in terms of horizontal field of view, the diagonal field is 130-59°.  This avoids the need for the big and bulky 230mm dome.  Image quality is as good or better than topline rectilinears behind big domes, the corners get progressively better as you spend more money on WACP versions, though possibly this is less important if you are shooting big animals in blue water with no real details in the corners.  So the WACP-C may be good enough.

    Interesting, never though of using a teleconverter on that lens.  Thanks for the suggestion!  You think that would eliminate the circular-effect while also maintaining a good FOV?  Ideally, I'd love to have a FOV of 120 or more (again without the circular effect if possible)

    Also, do you think it would be best paired with a 230mm dome or 180mm?

  4. Hi all,

    Just made the switch to a Sony A1 from a Nikon D500 that I usually coupled with a Tokina 10-17 (occasionally a Nikkor 10-24).  I've used my new A1 with the Canon 8-15mm mounted on a Sigma adapter.  Although I'm really, really happy with the results thus far, I despise the 180 circular field-of-view and the shading in the corners when I zoom out, so that effectively limits me to shooting at 15mm.

    I'm an almost exclusive wide angle shooter, and often have to get close to my subjects (10-12ft or less) to shoot them (due to visibility).  We're talking about large sharks, whales, etc...

    Does anyone have any experience shooting with either the Sony Prime 12-24 or the Sony Prime 16-35, instead?  I'd love to have some flexibility in the zoom, instead of always shooting at 15mm on the Canon.

    I've got numerous extension rings and domes, so there's not issue with pairing, compatibility or having to spend more on ports for the different lenses.  I did see on the Nauticam port charts that the Sony 16-35 pairs nicely with the WACP-2, and although that's not out of the question, I'd really rather not spend $9k on that if I don't need to.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions/comments!

  5. $375 + shipping and any PayPal fees.

    Exceptional condition Light & Motion Nightsea Fluorescent Light.  I won it in a contest a couple of years ago and maybe used it 5-6 times.  Has both flood and spot modes.

    Retails for $500

    Includes everything in picture.  Wrist mount, yellow mask filter, L&M bag, charger, instruction manual and a detachable white filter that you can put it over the light and will look/operate just like a traditional white underwater light.















  6. $350.

    For Sale a pristine condition Tokina 10-17 fisheye lens for Nikon mounts, with Nauticam zoom gear.

    Please note, I superglued the zoom gear to the lens as it slipped off a few times (at inopportune moments while underwater).  No issues with it since :-) but the zoom gear won’t come off or come loose :-)

    Glass is in great shape, no scratches or blemishes.  I kept it stored in a pelican case when not in use.

    I used this lens paired with a Nikon D500 for some fantastic results.  Selling as I switched to full frame recently.








  7. For sale, Nauticam D500 housing.  USD$ 2000 plus shipping and any paypal fees.  I also accept venmo, zelle, etc...if you prefer.

    I'm the original owner, purchased from Backscatter in 2017.  I last had it overhauled by Backscatter on May 20, 2019, and it has maybe 200 dives since then.  I'm meticulous about cleaning O-rings after every dive and it was dunked in a rinse-tank with all buttons depressed/turned at the end of every dive-day.

    Some scratches and faded lettering/paint, as you would expect, but it has never been flooded, had any leaks or any operational issues whatsoever.  I changed the batteries in it once a year, most recently on December 8, 2022.  Always stored in a Pelican case when not in use or during travel.  Also includes original owners manual and spare O-ring.






















  8. Selling my Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED Zoom Lens with Nauticam Gear for Nikon 10-24mm AF-S f/3.5-4.5 G.

    I've barely used it, no scratches, fungus, etc...Never been dropped, flooded, or damaged in any way.  Its been stored in a Pelican case for most of its life.

    USD$ 500 plus shipping and paypal fees.  Also accept Venmo, Zelle, etc...if you prefer.







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