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nickdiver

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nickdiver last won the day on May 19 2013

nickdiver had the most liked content!

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About nickdiver

  • Rank
    Lionfish
  • Birthday 12/06/1966

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.oceanwonders.org
  • Yahoo
    nickdiver03@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Palau
  • Interests
    Uw filmmaking, uw photo, digital video editing, marine conservation

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    --
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony Z1U, Sony PD100
  • Camera Housing
    L & M Bluefin HD with standard and WA lenses; Bluefin 900 with standard, WA and Macro lenses
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    L & M HIDs
  • Accessories
    Macromate lens and +2, +4 diopters for Bluefin 900
  1. Hi Steve. Good to hear from you. I just sent you a PM via Wetpixel. Hope all is well with you, Nick
  2. Underwater videographer needed in Palau, to assist during busy season, Sep. 2010-April 2011, and possibly during future busy seasons. Main responsibility will be to film divers and marine life on a daily basis (each day a different group of divers), and produce a souvenir DVD of their dives. Must have a minimum of 3 years of experience in this line of work, as well as references and a demo reel to prove it. No dreamers need to apply. High Definition video gear preferred but not crucial (miniDV ok). Videographer will work under the supervision of main uw video & photo pro at Ocean Wonders Productions, affiliated with Sam's Tours in Palau. PADI DiveMaster certification and PADI liability insurance are required. Videographer will need to have own uw video and scuba gear, own computer for editing and burning DVD (Mac OS preferred). Good social skills are a must, because of our daily interactions with divers and people of all kinds. Pay is commission based. For questions and details, please send cover letter, resume, 3 references, and a web link of your demo reel showcasing your uw filming and editing skills (e.g., 5 min. video) to nick@oceanwonders.org. More about Ocean Wonders Productions at www.oceanwonders.org.
  3. Video editor needed in Palau, to assist with the production of souvenir DVDs of divers' daily dives. Will be needed for the busy season Sept. 2010-April 2011 and possibly throughout the year. Will need to have own computer for editing and burning DVD (Mac OS preferred). Must have a minimum of 3 years of experience in this line of work (video editing, DVD authoring), as well as references and a demo reel to prove it. No dreamers need to apply. Editor will work under the supervision of video & photo pro at Ocean Wonders Productions, affiliated with Sam's Tours in Palau. Familiarity with computers, digital still cameras and basic/intermediate photo editing (e.g. Photoshop) and good social skills are required, as the Editor will also need to manage the daily logistics of our Digital Photo Center (e.g., renting uw cameras, assisting guests with computer and Internet needs, keeping track of sales, etc). Pay will be a combination of fixed salary plus commissions on each DVD produced. For inquiries, questions and details, please send cover letter, resume, 3 references, and a web link of your demo reel showcasing your editing skills (e.g., 5 min. video) to nick@oceanwonders.org. More about Ocean Wonders Productions at www.oceanwonders.org.
  4. We do offer them here in Palau, through Ocean Wonders Productions and Sam's Tours. More at http://www.oceanwonders.org/SamsTours/uwim...rses/index.html Check out the testimonials at the end of the page. Cheers, Nick
  5. Hi Sasha. I have the same HID lights, had them for years. Yes, you can buy the HID bulb thru Welch Allyn, I've done it several times in the past years. Cost is $230 per HID bulb, a lot less than the $350 at L&M! Go here to order: http://www.walamp.com/lpd/webstore/detail....891858382331020 You can change the bulb yourself, IF you're mechanically inclined and won't mind spending a couple of hours doing that. The bulb is VERY fragile, so careful when you're taking out the old one and installing the new one. Sometimes it's trickly to pop the new bulb into the slot where the old one resides. Lubricating the sides (NOT the contacts!) of the black base of the bulb usually helps to get it to slide into place. Also, unscrewing the light may be a bit tricky. Using a bench definitely helps. Ditto when you're screwing it back. Also, make sure you lubricate the two o-rings inside the light, and careful with the top glass part. I LOVE the lights, but I hate the wet connectors. They're fine if you use them a few times a year, but if you're like me and use them several times a week (given my uw film job) they're a bitch and require ultimate pampering, attention and anal-retentiveness to keep them clean. And even then, they often fail. I mention this to L&M, but (as usual), they don't care and deny the problem. - You don't need any filters with the HIDs. They'll give you great color from the start, no need for post. When they work, or course.... (see above). - I also looked into retrofitting my 2 HIDs and upgrade them to the LEDs. Basically, not worth the money. Also because you HAVE to change the battery pods, since the ones used with the LEDs use 3 connectors, not two like our Sunrays. I've seen the LEDs at work, they're awesome. BUT, again, L&M is still using the old and faulty wet-connector design, which is still a major problem after a few dozen dives... Maybe good for weekend divers, but not for day to day production work. When will they learn? My .05, Nick
  6. Thanks Alex for allowing the hosting of the pdf file on WP, and for posting the link to my website, where the videoclips of the RED Shootout are available for download ( http://www.oceanwonders.org/RED_Palau ) If hosting of that pdf paper ever becomes a problem in the future, I'll be happy to host that file on my site, on the same page where the videoclips reside. Nick
  7. Hello. Would you be willing to sell the camera and the housing only? I shoot with a Z1 in a L&M BF HD housing, and have all the other stuff (HID lights, monitor, pods, etc). How much for the cam+housing? thanks, Nick
  8. Hey Alan. Hope L&M will re-machine those grooves correctly. Keep us posted on the result, ok? And personally, I'd still duct-tape the pods AND the pod lock even after your housing comes back. You never now. I once lost a pod (slid off my BF HD) and had to fork out an outrageous $550 for a new one... Nick
  9. Hey Mark. I just wanted to let everybody here know what a pleasure it has been to work with your team. The shoot was a blast. Of course, at times it was so tempting to dump my Z1 and grab one of the REDs! But, I had to stay in my own "zone", so you guys could stay in yours... :-) Hope the report is coming out nicely. The page with the videoclips is ready to go. Will be glad to let the cat out of the bag when you're ready... Nick
  10. Alan, I have the same setup as yours. Love the lights, but the pods are a pain in the neck. The pod lock works most of the times, but sometimes it does get loose, even after you tighten it. With the BFin HD housing, the safest thing is to use good ol' duct tape to keep the pods from sliding off the bottom of the housing. Also put duct tape on top of the pod lock, that way it won't come off. It is obviously a flaw in the design of the pod lock and pod grooves on the BF HD. Elegant, yes. But 100% realible, nope. Never had that problem when I used to use the same battery pods with my BFin 900, or Stingray, since the back and front plate of those housings would keep the pods from sliding off the grooves. Also, if you do lots of dives (I dive almost every day, with my uw video biz here in Palau), you WILL eventually start having problems with the bulkeads on the pods. They're very finicky, to say the least. Most realiable way of keeping the wet contacts inside the bulkheads in good working order is to gently spray a small amount of WD40 every few dives, or as soon as you start seeing some corrosion/buildup on the "female" connectors. (this holds true even if you rinse you cam after every dive, etc. ). My five cents. Nick
  11. A link to a webpage with videoclips from the RED shootout in Palau will also be included in Mark's upcoming report.... Can't say more for now, or Mark will come back to Palau and feed me to the sharks.... :-) Nick
  12. A link to a webpage with videoclips from the RED shootout in Palau will also be included in Mark's upcoming report.... Nick
  13. Hey Steve. Thanks for the update on SDUFEX, sounds like this new location was a winner! Re: the RAM thing, well you're right, on SOME Apple models, in order to increase dramatically the RAM, one has to get rid of most or all of the previous RAM, typically because (particularly in a laptop) space is at premium. It sounds like there's only 2 RAM slots in your MBP, and if each of them is already filled with a 1Gb stick each, then you woulnd't be able to add any new ram UNLESS you toss both the current ones and you buy two 2Gb sticks. (you can't have a 1gb + 2Gb configuration, because typically they need to be in PAIRS of the same size, to be "seen" by the processor). Some models (e.g., iMac) are a lot more flexible when it comes to ram, because there's more space on the motherboard allocated to RAM slots. In laptops instad, every millimiter is taken up by something, so choices and space are more limited. I'm sure you could always buy the 2Gb + 2Gb of ram, and then sell the two 1gb of RAM on ebay as "mint"... Hope that helps, Nick
  14. Hey Nick again. Now I understand, you want to output at 1080i to your external 16:9 monitor. yes, I think as you and also Wagsy hinted at, it's actually a "feature" (BUG!!) with the camera. I remember before I left for PI and still had my Sony HD TV (1920x 1080) back in California, I used to run into the same problem. When connecting the Z1 to that HDTV via the component cable, and trying to display the camera info onto the HDTV set (with the latter set to 1080i), only the info on the TOP part of the Z1 LCD would show. The info at the bottom WILL NOT show, when connected to a monitor set to 1080i. Yep, it's pretty F...d up, but there's no other way (not that I know at least). I think it's because the software that controls the display of camera info is still old, and it uses large, non scalable fonts and symbols, which was fine in the old pre-HD days, but not anymore. The only way to see ALL of the camera info is to connect in 480i or 480p mode, which of course results in a softer image. You would think Gates and Amphico shoudl be aware of this bug? What does the manual for their monitors say? Perhaps there is a "firmware" that Sony has released, that would fix the bug? Nick
  15. Hey Nick, long time no "see", so to speak. I've been living in the Philippines now since Jan of this year, moved from California. Macro galore! Been shooting for a couple of HD production companies, my own, private parties DVDs, some marine conservation groups, etc. Lots of projects going on. Soon will be giving seminars in uw filmaking here. Nice to slowly come back to the WP community, after a time when I was too busy for that (setting up new business here, etc). Anyway, good question yours. As you know, like you I also have a L&M Bluefin HD for my Z1. And, I also have the L&M 4:3 monitor (I used to use it with my L&M Buefin 900, and kept it when I upgraded to the HD housing for the Z1). It's the L&M "compact" monitor (self powered via internal bettery). Although it's not high def of course, for general framing (e.g, divers, medium-large subjects at standard distance) the L&M monitor does a fine job. And after a while you actually can accurately "guess" the focus just by looking at the image (even if it's a bit soft, of course). Of course for critical stuff, e.g, macro, it helps to double check your focus with either the big 16:9 LCD on the Z1, or peep through the Z1 viewfinder. If I can make a correction Nick, it is NOT true that the external 4:3 L&M monitor, when connected to the Bluefin HD housing does not show you the camera info that you already see in the nice 16:9 monitor built into the Z1. In fact, the 4:3 monitor will show you exactly the same image, camera info included. Only thing is, it's letterboxed of course, to maintain the proportions of the 16:9 format into a 4:3 monitor. The reason in some cases the external monitor may not "mirror" the camera info present on the main LCD of the Z1, is if you've inadvertently siwtched "ON" the "show 4:3 guides" mode in your Z1 menu (camera or "other" settings, can't remember). If that is the case, turn it off, and you should be able now to see the camera info on any external monitor. Apparently the Z1 cannot ouput both the 4:3 guides and the camera info at the same time to an external monitor. Mark in Palau used to have the same problem when he first got his Gates + Z1 + Gates ext. monitor, and he was able to fix this problem with this trick. Re: cable, yes my L&M 4:3 monitor is a SubConn cable and: - name on cable is "BELDEN 8412 2CE" - diameter of cable is about 1/4 inch. - diameter of each of the "fatter" ends of the cable is the same as the ends on the cable that connects your lights to the pods. - The cable has THREE "golden" pins, plus a forth one that is a simple metal pin that helps the whole thing plug into the blukhead perfectly aligned. It's not clear whether 2 of the conductors are connected internally. I would assume so since the video cable only carries 2 signals, but don't quote me on that. Hope that helps. If you need pix, let me know (or email me, nick@oceanwonders.org) Nick
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