Jump to content

tx51210

Member
  • Content Count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by tx51210


  1. A recent announcement is requesting users of the 105mm and the modular flat port to exchange their port bodies for a larger diameter version. My old style port body works OK here but its a tight fit and difficult to install without brushing the VR switch. I'll be sending mine back for the free update.

     

    Can you clarify the "recent announcement" comment? Has Ikelite issued some kind of port exchange for some 105VR ports?


  2. I have a Nikon D80 with a Sigma 17-70 mm lens. I'm thinking about getting a macro lens, and need some help from more experienced photographers.

     

    I was thinking about getting either the Nikon 60 mm or the 105 mm, and I'd like to know the main differences between them (besides the price). Can I do everything with the 105 mm that I would with the 60 mm?

     

    Thanks!

     

    I agree with everything said about the 60mm but get the 105mm anyway, it's the bomb!

     

    Glad to add to your confusion. The more lenses the better anyway.


  3. I'm thinking of taking 2 8" arms (per each side) to use with my 10.5Dx lens in Alaska. Here is a shot I took in relatively poor conditions off of Santa Cruz using the 10.5 and the same 8" arms. It seems you can get a shot without a lot of backscatter in poor contions with carefull placement of the strobes. (DS125s with a diffuser on them)

     

    What is you impression of the lighting? Okay with little backscatter or hot spots? Or should I bring my two longer arms?

     

     

    Longer is better. The (2) 8" arms will work but if you have longer arms, take them. The 10.5 is so wide, that I was constantly having to adjust the arms to move them behind the 180degree field of view.

     

    I am still debating the benifit of diffuser vs no diffusers with the DS125s when shooting the 10.5. Anyone else have an opinion?

     

    80893516.jpg


  4. I like the selective focus on #2 and the attention of the fish is on the camera. The coral and subject must limit your composition but I like what you have. Consider a horizontal crop along the bottom to remove the dark void in the bottom right corner.

     

    Nice colors on #1 but subject composition could be better. You would think for what these models charge, they could cooperate a little better.


  5. I think the Montastrea annularis is the correct answer. My memory gets worse daily but that seems to be what I remember, the pictures helped. I kept trying to convince myself that the scale of the polyps were larger.

     

    Thanks.

     

     

     

     

    It is either Montastrea annularis or Montastrea cavernosa.

     

    The polyps look more like M. cavernosa but it is hard to distinguish the two based on a close up of the polyps with no scale. Do you have a picture of the entire colony or something in the picture to show the size of the polyps? M. cavernosa has larger polyps and froms a smooth bolder like colony. M. annularis has smaller polyps and froms a bumpy colony bolder or plates.

     

    Here are some pictures of mine that show the colony shape of the two species.

     

    M. cavernosa http://www.photography.willandsam.com/?Gal...=10&Image=5

    M. annularis

    http://www.photography.willandsam.com/?Gal...=10&Image=6

    http://www.photography.willandsam.com/?Gal...10&Image=45

    http://www.photography.willandsam.com/?Gal...10&Image=54


  6. This comes up every now and again, and just seems to a slow responses to messages. Given that they insure all of Fantasea Line's housings, it seems unlikely they've disappered overnight. They don't have hundreds of staff, and can be slow to reply after a weekend (when most claims are likely to arise). I have sent you a PM with contact info that may be different than what you have, so hopefully that will get you a response. Please let us know so we're not all wondering.

    Cheers,

    Marli

     

    Thanks for the contact information. I received a brief reply from Sandy telling me to fax the completed enrollment forms but she did not answer my questions about the form I already sent and I find it really disturbing to deal with a company where I cannot talk to anyone on the phone or get questions answered. I really hate the idea of filling out all that information again, but I think I need to go with a different insurance company.


  7. I would add one thing to David's good instructions on the super wide stalk. Mount the dome on the housing before you mount the housing back plate, camera and lens. This way you can look inside the housing to make sure the o-ring hasn't jumped track.

    Good tip, I will keep that in mind as I try it out Saturday. Nothing like 2' vis to make wide angle a challenge.


  8. tx51210,

     

    First, go buy a $1.99 oil filter strap wrench (soft rubber band to grip the port extension) and this should allow you to secure the extension tight enough. Make sure the o-ring is lubed enough so it will slide as you tighten it. Once installed, most shooters don't take it off unless they're changing port extensions...Mine's been on for over a year and multiple trips. And I've used it with 3 different wide angle lenses!

     

    Second, mark the "dot" where you orient the dome on the REAR of the dome port, too. Then when you are diving, you can glance over the top and see the "dot" is still screwed all the way on. This has the same amount of port / o-ring surface area as any Ikelite port where the port locks "lock down". Oly difference being you had to close the port locks first since the 10.5mm lens extension needs to be so short. Water pressure, even in rough water at snorkeling depth will seal it....

     

    Finally, DON'T USE RINSE TANKS!!! I ALWAYS tell any dive guide to NOT put my rig in the rinse tank. I'll do it myself once I take my gear off. That way YOU can look at it and make sure the dome port hasn't been knocked around, etc.

     

    I usually only have to SHOW a divemaster or guide ONCE where and how to handle my rig.....I also hand it up to them so they can only grab it where I want them to.....

     

    Hope this helps!

     

    dhaas

     

    Great tip with the filter strap. Someone gave me a set of strap wrenches a few Christmas ago and I never used. Sounds like you found a use for them.

     

    Rinse tanks are getting more crowded with all the great point and shoot models out there. Those little conversations ahead of time with the crew can really pay off.


  9. I received my new Ikelite housing and the 8" dome and port for the 10.5. I have to admit, I am pretty uneasy with the bayonett port attachment and configuration. I know water pressure will help prevent accidental rotation of the port but this seems to be a disaster waiting to happen. It is very hard to get the port connection to the dome tight enough and I worry about the transition period back into the boat where there is little water pressure but there can be a lot of jostling around with higher waves. Handing this thing to a crew member? ;) Most guys are very careful, but if you set the dome down??


  10. The problem with tape would be the same as shrink tubing previously mentioned. The floats are not smooth-surfaced, so water would get underneath the tape and be very difficult to flush out/dry out. I would expect that you'd end up with floats that would leak/ooze old disgusting moldy, smelly, putrid water into your bag/case all the way home from diving. In short...yuck. :glare: ;)

     

     

    Has anyone tried the wraps used to hold foam padding to motorcycle dirt bike cross bars? The same principal should work on the floats. They use a vinyl or fabric piece of cloth that has mating velcro strips sewn along the length of the material which is sized to wrap around the length of the foam. The velcro is adjustable and makes removal easy. Their foam strips are cut lenthwise and would make adding and removing the foam quick.

     

    I am not suggesting actually using the cross bar pads as they are too soft and the wraps tend to make your rig look like tropical fish with all the colors, but I believe the principal is fairly sound. What do you think?

    g17979.jpg


  11. I was reading the Ikelite website and the *? on the port chart states that some people feel that at +2 Diopter on the 12-24 will increase corner sharpness. Anyone have any experience behind the new Ike 8" dome either way and just who are "some people"?

     

    I have a Canon 500D that I slapped on the 12-24 just to see the look thru the viewfinder. The field of view decreases so essentially, it is cropping the corners by affecting the angle of view at 12mm. Not sure if this would be a positive addition or not. Topside, I do not see any difference in corner sharpness with or without the 500D.

     

    My system does not show up till Tuesday so I guess I will have to test it out when it finally shows.


  12. Looks promising, 7.1 megapixels, and an olympus housing PT-037 Underwater Housing for the SP-550 UZ/Replacement Accessories

    Item: #202109-410

     

    But not that compact. My wife bought a 725SW for surface and shallow use goes down to 16 feet. Should be good for snorkling when I don't want to lug the D200.

     

    I sold the C-8080, Housing and Strobe. I am currently scrimping every penny and selling everything not tied down to fund a Housing Setup for my D200. The prices are just ridiculous.

     

    I am leaning toward Ikelite because of iTTL, I can understand their website port information and because they don't gouge quite as badly as the other housing vendors for every little port assembly piece. If I recycle a few more cans and sell some more blood, maybe I can get back into the underwater photography by the end of the month. :D

×
×
  • Create New...