Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About rai

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mataró - Spain

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon Rebel 350S
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125 Ikelite SS-200 YS-50TTL-N
  • Accessories
  1. Me too. Both topside an under I always use 60 mm EF-S as is and for the range of situations and subjects it is good for. It focus too close to take benefit of close-up lens. I only use the Canon 100 mm when I can't get close enough with the 60 mm. But When I want more magnification I only use the 100 mm with close-up lenses (+4 is my favourite) or the Kenko TC (both x1.4 and 2x) for more scary subjects. Underwater I'm now testing the Woody's diopter with 100 mm and I must say I love it For topside and more extrem results I'd like to give a try to normal lens reversed with and adapter ring. Maybe the kit lens could give good results reversed ... Rai
  2. Thanks Pakman I also have tested it with 1.4x and the difference for me is very clear. I use to test it at home by night. This is a low light situation very close to UW at usual depths (at least for me where I use to dive). With the 1.4x the available light is enough to achieve focus across all the focal range, but certainly is not fast and requires good contrat zones. With the 1.4x, the setup is wider an more intended to CFWA than CF (with the 2x). I don't have very good expectatives for fishes here (they use to be small and scary enough to saty too far for getting decent sizes on picture) but I think we can get interesting WA shots. I'll tell about this when I'll make further tests. Rai
  3. Hi I've just created a thread in a spanish forum about my test with a Tokina 10-17 and a kenko 2X TC: http://forobuceo.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27116 Only the first nudibranch photo is slightly cropped. The other ones are done at 10-11 or 17 mm. The results are not as good as expected. The tokina is less luminous than other lenses like 10.5 and AF goes mad at 17 mm. My 5 cents: good for moderated wide angle and static subjects that are not afraid of the camera. Good macro relation but distances to subject very small (almost touching the dome) and very hard to give light to help focus and light the scene . Competely useless for dinamic and scary fishes, due to the FE distance scale ditortion get too smal at normal work distances and AF diffculties. Not enough good as verstil combination (as Ia hoped ). I still have to test the Tokina 10-17 mm with Kenko 1.4. More CFWA and I hope AF gets better at 17 mm than in the 2x setup. Rai
  4. Saturday I used for first time a Woody diopter. It was given to me the same morning, so I didn't have time to make any proper fixation for it when not in use (I had its lanyard around one handle). When not in use hanged a lot from the hande base so I hold it by the lanyard with left hand when not in use (only a few times in this dive). As far as I was wearing a drysuit (12ºC) no suit related solutions were valid. My original idea for a simple and propre fixation was tested on sunday. I'm using it with the Canon 100 macro behind Ikelite long flat port for this lens. So I added a SS clamp in the body of the port that catches the lanyard just enough to allow to put in on and off. The lanyard attachment point is on the upper right part of the port. So when not in use the diopter can hang in the left side of the port (a safe place) without hanging freely and getting under the port. It is simple and work very well . Rai
  5. Last Saturday I made UW tests of a similar set up with my Tokina 10-17 and a Kenko 2X TC. The 2x TC made focus hard to get, specially on 17 mm side of the focals but acceptable at 10 mm. The 10.5 has wider aperture so this will affect you less than in my case. My first impression is that you can still keep some of the wide angle capability, despite the reduced angle of view, and you can make very good macros with static subjects. With dynamic fishes at medium distance it din't perform very well maninly because the fishes still seem to bee too far and AF problems. With static fishes and macro work you have to get really too close (almost dangerously touching the subject with the dome to for macros) and besides the inherent danger, it's hard to light properly. I thought that this combo will be more versatil that it really showed up in my preliminary test. I still need more testing to evaluate properly tha advantages and disadvantages of this set up and I also want to test it with the 1.4 TC instead of 2x and compare it with the Sigma 15 mm FE. Rai
  6. If vignetting didn't appear in topside tests, it won't appear UW. But you still have to test in the pool for corner blurring. Better if you try with and without the extension. If blur doesn't shows up in both cases you can choose using the extension or not, depending on what you wanna do: over/under with extension and CFWA without it in order of taking profit of the really small minimum focus distance. Rai
  7. Sorry for the answer delay. I was on holidays. Yesterday I talked with my friend and told me the he uses the Athena dome with no extension ring without any trouble. He also told me that he was pretty sure (but no testing indeed) that with a extension ring, the vignetting will probably appear.
  8. Not exactly. Many cameras uses slightly differente versions of the protocol. These differences are very small in order to allow you use eTTL2 flashes without problems but they exist. Third party converters sometimes can't handle them directly, because they doesn't implement the real protocol. They just handle the ettl2 signal well enough to control some models of UW strobes. In this case I'm not completely sure because my DS-125 was malfunctioning (it's in its way back to Ikelite for repairing), So I can't be sure if the problems I experienced were dued to some ettl2 incompatiblity of 350D and 400D implementations or laid in the strobe itself. For the S&S housing, I ignore if the TTL converter available (S&S) will work or not. The people I know that uses this housing with a 400D, control the strobe manually. But AFAIK it's a Matthias converter and I know that this converter has a newer version that support 400D than the previous one that support the 350D (The new one supports both, logically). But I don't know if the S&S converter can be upgraded to newer versions as the OEM version does. Rai
  9. I suppose that some kind of adhesive (and waterproof ;-)) marking would help. Just a piece of paper with marks painted on it, covered with traspanrent adhesive tape could be very useful. Uhmmm! Nice idea. I didn't even think of painting the spring. This was not the 8" dome port (just the 6") and there were some other reflections but the springs were the more conspicous. I was thinking in a black inner sleeve (or just a paint layer) for the cilinder that couples with the clamp, but certainly painting the springs could be very helpful too. Rai
  10. Hi pakman AFAIK the shots my friend did (the link repeated in my last message) were done in one S&S housing for a Nikon D200 and the Athena dome with no port extension. Rai
  11. Thank you Tim. I'm glad you liked the shots. I'm convinced that the 17 mm focal (and all the range from 10 mm) is also very useful, specially for CFWA but I couldn't check it out as far as I would yet. Weather conditions and proper subjects were too elusive to me recently and all my test were focused basically at 10 mm (although I also made some photos a t 17 mm. In my opinion the main use of the 8" port is for over/under shots, as David Haas has wisely pointed. For any other use the 5503 works just great (and it's not so bulky). Well, In fact Yesterday I coud make another test dive. I checked that dome port shade is very sensitive to a proper alignment. Any little accuracy error in port and shade mounting may result in vignetting and you my want to try to trim the shade just slightkly to give you more room for misalingment errors. But I also found a annoying issue of inner reflections not . The spring of the zoom clamp apears in many of my shots . I believe that some better alignment of the clamp over the lens will help a lot, but I'm not sure of how much (in some photos you can see more area than just the springs). I'm also very interested in this posibility. All I can say now that there's room for it and probably something could be done. Proper fixing it's the only issue... Yes, as Paul has just pointed to you. In this very thread I already posted this (that might interest you): About your 12-24, this is a complementary lens with a only a small area of common angle of view. You may want to keep it. Rai
  12. If your friend needs some extra info just ask for it and I'll be very pleased to provide any detail or whatever mus be required. Rai
  13. To anypeople interested in using a 400D in a 350D Ikelite housing. In this post http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16618 I put some photos and explanations of my mods. I hope that this could be useful for someone. Rai
  14. This is for Pakman, friend and any other interested in using a 400D in a 350D Ikelite housing. In this post http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16618 I put some photos and explanations of my mods. I hope that this could be useful for someone. Rai
  15. Adapting a Canon 350D S&S housing for a Canon 400D it's very easy: just put the new camera in the tray and you can take it down. The great miss in this case it's the acces to the left buttons that are slightly displaced more to the left (in order to give more room fot the big LCD screen of the 400D). All this has been commented in wetpixel and even Pakman post a very smart solution to acces the left buttons in this thread: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15364 But all this simplicity can't be just applied in the case of the ikelite housing due mainly to the Ikelite tray (and also e-TTL2 converter case) and his back alingment posts. This posts prevent the 400D be aligned with the tripod socket. So I had to make some extra mods to achieve the same in my Ikelite housing. First of all, I have to say that all my mods are extremely rough and requires some adjusting afterwork to make it function properly. I don't have the proper measuring and machining tools (and specially time) to do it at home in a pro looking way. So I used very odd materials and solutions, but the important thing is that, despite the blotched job look, they work pretty well, at least for me. In the Ikelite case, there are two kind of mods. The first ones allows you to put the camera in the Ikelite tray (which has the e-ttl2 converter within) and the second ones are intended for allow acces to all buttons. As far as the main difference with the S&S housing lays in the back posts, the first thing I did was to remove them (with the help of pliers and a good pull). Obviously, then you have to add two new aligment posts to prevent the camera spinning around the tripod socket. I decided to do this in the front face. Once unmounted the e-TTL converter case/tray and with a drill and thread tool, I put an screw as aligment post at the left side of the camera and a plate screwed at the front of the tray (in the right side). In order to do this, the first thing is disassembly the tray/converter case and work with the upper sidepart. The main reason to do so is that the case contains the converter circuitry and the fixing of the alignment elements must not have any interference with it. Besides, the screw head of the left alignment post implies that the drilling must have a countersink to allow perfect closing of the two parts of the case. Adjustment were done basically with several layers of tape and a piece of plastic tube for the screw and some thin plastic layers (holded below the duct tape) in the plate case to give the main extra thickness required. Here you can see a couple of photos of the tray with the two alingment elements: Upper view Lower view Camera set in the tray with tape added. Here you can also see that the depth of field preview control has no interference with the left alignment post (at the right of the picture). With this setup I made the Tokina 10-17 test photos, but I wanted to acces the left buttons too, so I make a transfer pad to solve the slight misplacement of the left buttons. This is because , at that moment, pakman haven't post their smart solution to this problem. I'll put here because it might become the inspiration for further mods. The transfer pad mod for the left buttons implied screwing a mini PVC piece to the back of the housing (in the inner side) which holds a small transfer pad made of flexible plastic sheet and furniture door bumpers (selfadhesive). This pictures will show clearly how I did it: DISCLAIMER: Of course, I'm just telling only what I've done. I don't recommend to do this because it's easy to damage your equipment and I'm pretty sure it will void your warranty. Remember that if you decide to do this kind of mods to a housing, you do it at your own risk. Besides, it's very probably that your e-TTL2 converter won't work with the 400D camera (I'm not sure yet), even in manual mode. So probably you'll have to use your strobe in manual mode with an old Ikelite sync cord (non digital and I haven't tested it) or with Ikelite-Nikonos Sync cords and a 2-Nikonos-to-Ikelite T-connector (my set-up that certainly works). ASAP I'll get news about this I'll post here. Rai
  • Create New...