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markdrayton

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Everything posted by markdrayton

  1. I'm selling this Nauticam hot-shoe trigger on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/272869729631?
  2. It hadn't occurred to me to put the lens hood on the lens within the domes, so I tried that out today at home. On the Nauticam system, the lens hood will not pass through the N120 housing throat so has to be mounted from the front after the camera has been installed and before mounting the dome. That works fine with adequate clearance for the Nauticam 210mm dome and 20mm port extension. However there is insufficient radial clearance for use with the Zen DP-100 dome and the recommended 30mm port extension. There will probably be adequate clearance using larger Zen domes. The Nauticam zoom gear does not prevent mounting of the lens hood. It would be interesting to find out if using a lens hood within larger domes avoids the flare that is apparently sometimes an issue using full frame without external dome shades. Mark
  3. Alex. I have recently taken about 560 images underwater with the Nikkor 8-15 fisheye on the DX format D500, around 230 of which contained partial or full sunbursts or dappled light. Most were taken with a 210mm Nauticam acrylic dome but a few were with a Zen DP100 dome and a few again were taken in conjunction with a Kenko 1.4x TC. Focal lengths varied through the DX applicable zoom range and there are a mixture of horizontal and vertical format shots. None of the images show any hint of the flare seen in your and Adam’s shots. Many of the sunburst shots were taken fairly shallow – a few at 3m. or slightly shallower. Probably the relevant difference is that using DX, I didn’t need to remove the dome shade but I didn’t use the lens hood. Mark
  4. Press Info button to see Info screen on rear LCD. Flash mode shows at left, second row down (if pop-up flash is up, or a strobe is connected electronically via the hotshoe)?
  5. Further land-based observations on the Nikkor 8-15 Fisheye used with and without a teleconverter on DX (D500): A Nauticam zoom gear for this lens is now available - but there isn't currently one listed for the lens with teleconverter Nauticam and Zen now have port extension recommendations. Of interest to Tokina fisheye upgraders, the relative differences from those recommended for the Tokina 10-17 vary with the specific dome. For instance Zen recommend a total of 30mm extension for the DP-100 compared with 15mm for the Tokina, while Nauticam recommend the same 20mm extension with their 210mm acrylic dome as for the Tokina. For those upgrading from a DP-100 with integrated 15mm extension, the best solution seems to be the removal of the integrated extension and reassembly of the dome assembly using shorter screws (easy), then using a Nauticam 30mm port extension. My earlier experience using the Nikkor 8-15 with an elderly Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 was possibly flawed as that particular TC became progressively dysfunctional in autofocus and aperture control and had to be replaced by a new Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DGX. The new TC has so far autofocussed impeccably on land with the Nikkor fisheye - scarcely different from using the lens alone. Optically on land, the Nikkor performs significantly better than the Tokina across the zoom range with vastly less Chromatic Aberration and better sharpness both at the centre and edges. These comparisons have been limited to the f8 and f11 apertures I typically use behind domes. With the Kenko 1.4x teleconverter the zoom range usefully becomes 11-21 with complete coverage of the DX sensor throughout the range. Fully zoomed out on DX, the angle of coverage is just slightly less that that of the lens on its own at maximum full coverage of the sensor (about 10mm zoom). Fully zoomed in to 21mm the angle of coverage (reach) is greater than that provided by the Tokina on its own but less than that provided by the Tokina plus TC (24mm). Comparing the 2 fisheye lenses optically on land in combination with the 1.4x TC, the Nikkor still performs substantially better than the Tokina across their zoom ranges for Chromatic Aberration, central and edge sharpness. At 11mm and f9.0, the Nikkor is very sharp centrally but the edges are soft. At 21mm and f9.0, sharpness is still very good centrally but is also good at the edges. The focal length of 11mm can be achieved either by using the Nikkor alone at mid-zoom or by using the lens with 1.4x TC fully zoomed out. Both deliver excellent central sharpness but while with the lens alone edge sharpness is good, with the TC the edges are quite poor. DX land-based Conclusions: The Nikkor lens is a substantially better performer than the Tokina both with and without a teleconverter The TC works much better optically with the Nikkor, at least peripherally, when it is zoomed in. Edge performance suffers when zoomed out. The same is probably true of the Tokina but performance is poorer with this lens throughout the zoom range and across the image. It is a viable strategy to optimise the Nikkor's zoom range for DX cameras by using a Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro DGX teleconverter only as long as good edge performance when zoomed out can be sacrificed. Otherwise it may be better to reserve this combination for use only when fully zoomed in. Caveat: How these observations and conclusions translate to use behind domes with their curved and close virtual images remains to be explored.Mark
  6. After playing with the new lens on my D500 on land for a couple of hours this afternoon I can add the following: Unlike on Adam's Seacam setup, with Nauticam, the 10-24 zoom gear is a few mm too long to get the teeth to mesh in the housing. Other gears in my collection don't appear to be easily adaptable either, so it looks like waiting for Nauticam to produce a definitive gear or making something custom. As expected, the lens isn't physically compatible with Nikon's own 1.4x Mk III TC. The lens will work with my fairly old version of the Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 and as Walt suggests, this allows a full zoom range without any cut-off/vignetting on the DX sensor and presumably a maximum angle of coverage only marginally less than the Tokina 10-17 at its widest. However autofocus using this TC and D500 is subtly less good with the Nikon lens. AFS on back button appears to work well with both lenses. AFC works OK with the Tokina with just occasional and minor initial hunting. On the Nikon lens, AFC also works but with significantly more frequent and rapid hunting before the focus settles at least in indoor light. As far as I can tell at the moment, final focus accuracy is OK. I don't get the impression that this is a deal breaker for most circumstances when this combination is likely to be used, but it could be an issue if using the TC to extend reach for rapidly moving pelagics? I haven't so far compared optical quality. Mark
  7. Or use the smaller Optech USA utility loops. https://optechusa.com/utility-loop.html
  8. I had 3 Ikelite housings (2 compacts and a DSLR) before moving to Nauticam with both DSLRs and Sony mirrorless including the NA-A6000. The main difference is the ergonomics and handling which is streets ahead for Nauticam. Both systems can take the same quality of image but you are likely to enjoy the Nauticam more and are more likely to catch that critical moment rather than struggling with controls. The 10-18 is a nice lens.
  9. Nauticam NA-D7100 Underwater Housing for Nikon D7100 or D7200 Housing is in very good condition, never been flooded and is fully working – last used in April 2016. Comes fitted with a Housing Sentry leak detecting vacuum valve and pressure monitoring electronics, handle and focus light balls, spare housing o-ring, Allen keys and instruction manual. No ports are included. Selling as upgrading to a D500. This housing model is currently advertised new from Nauticam UK for £2852.00 and the Housing Sentry Vacuum System is selling new from uwcamerastuff.com for $US699. Available for inspection in Cardiff, UK. Price £1300 + carriage. Nikon D7100 and D7200 camera bodies are also available if needed by separate negotiation.
  10. Yes, I had thought about the Canon lens - a flexible solution, probably better optically than some alternatives, most likely to work well with adapters as a native Canon lens, but quite expensive. I am looking forward to the A6000 replacement with interest, but as it stands that might still leave us with limited options for good fisheye solutions - thus our current manual focus workaround with the Tokina 10-17. If a new APS-C camera's autofocus with adapters works as well as it seems to do for the A7RII then that would be interesting. Deo claims that the Saker Falcon Lite autofocus works well with the A6000's hybrid PD/CD system at least for native Canon lenses but I haven't found many relevant independent reports and none that relate to the Tokina lens, so going that route at present would be high risk. At least there is now a good native macro solution for Sony E-mount owners in the 90mm FE Macro. I probably won't be at the show in February but I'm speaking at the February BSOUP meeting. Mark
  11. Hi Justin. Good question. This posting refers to the Sigma Fisheye/Metabones combination in some detail. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56631 Included in the first link is Brian Smith's positive report on the combination above water with the most recent software update: http://briansmith.com/sony-a7rii-canon-ef-smart-adapter-tests/ The other adapter that might be worth looking at is the new Deo Saker Falcon Lite (also marketed as Techart). Not so much information around and only available in UK on eBay: http://www.deoinfinity.com/#!saker-falcon/cqse Of course for many types of underwater fisheye use, autofocus isn't really necessary, but you would probably need a custom focus gear for MF. This is what we have done quite successfully for the A6000 with a Tokina 10-17 fisheye and mini-dome (also with a custom zoom gear). I don't think the Tokina would be a good solution for Full Frame. What about the combination of Sony 28mm FE mount plus Nauticam WWL-1? Seems to get good reports and a lot more compact than dome solutions - although not fisheye I believe with a diagonal field of view of 130 degrees rather than 180 degrees? Phil Rudin reports his favourable experience with this combination compared with the Sony fisheye converter here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56866 Mark
  12. Hi Marshall. We're probably not in the right forum for this discussion, but I'll reply here anyway as I can answer some of your questions. I can confirm that Nauticam now support a manual focus port option for APS-C Sony cameras and the Sony 90mm FE Macro lens. This is a new N85-N100 focus knob adapter with matching focus gear and N100 70mm Macro port. My daughter and I had the first example to leave the factory at the end of October courtesy of great support from UK Nauticam guru, Alex Tattersall. This worked very well using an A6000 on ~ 3 Red Sea macro dives last month. As you know the Sony 90mm Macro is a first class lens optically. I think my daughter used back button autofocus set on continuous most if not all of the time. As this wasn't primarily a macro trip and the first underwater outing for this lens, we didn't experiment with super macro underwater. In general, the autofocus appears accurate and usually successful, but slower and more inclined to hunt than say the Nikkor 105mm Macro on a Nikon D7200 DSLR. I think it will be more challenging for rapidly moving subjects on the A6000. I have just been testing the setup out with wet lenses used in the dry in the comfort of my home. I have no reason to believe that the conclusions will be markedly different underwater at least when using a focus light. With a SubSee +5, autofocus performance appears only a little worse than without a wet lens. Once the lens is in the focus zone, repeat pressing of the back button focus accurately and quickly fine tunes the focus point. Getting the lens into the zone is slower and occasionally misses and gives up, requiring a second or third button press attempt. With a SubSee +10, autofocus is quite problematic. More often than not focus fails, although with perseverance lock may be achieved. Even if lock is achieved, it is usually lost with the next focus button push even though the lens is then in the zone. I wouldn't be happy using this combination on autofocus. With a SMC-1, autofocus performance is quite similar to that with the SubSee +5 although of course depth of field is much less due to the far higher magnification. It is interesting that the weakest and most powerful of these three autofocus fairly adequately whereas the intermediate +10 doesn't. It should be a comfort having the manual focus option to get focus approximately correct under difficult conditions, but I suspect that the rocking method will be most effective for accurate focus with super macro using this lens and an A6000. As for the NEX7, I have no experience but the A6000 phase detect autofocus is certainly much better than the contrast detect NEX5N that we previously used. Hope this helps, Mark.
  13. Bent's thread on UWMP Group was started on 10th October Adam.
  14. Hi. This may not help, but the SagaDive Flip Adapter takes the CMC without the extender ring without problem. The rear of the CMC just clears the port glass with fairly optimal close positioning. The newer style 67mm securing ring from SagaDive is needed as their original style one did obstruct the CMC. See photos below. Mark
  15. Yes, I've had the problem with my NA-D7100. Replacement catches installed by Nautical UK have certainly improved matters. After many trouble free dives, the problem manifested itself in the muck of Lembeh, and subsequently to a lesser extent in Anilao so I think it is associated with diving in high sediment areas. Prior to replacement of the catches, my greater concern than the camera getting trapped inside was the red buttons not popping out and latching properly after the housing was closed. If this isn't noticed, it could leave the housing vulnerable to flooding on or near the surface, especially if a vacuum system is not being used. Now if I find the buttons getting a bit tight or gritty, I use a few drops of McNett Silicone spray on the mechanism and that seems to work quite well. Mark
  16. And I can confirm no D7200 related problems when used in a Nauticam NA-D7100 housing after about 37 dives in the last couple of weeks with that combination. Mark
  17. My daughter and I use the Sony 10 18 behind a ZEN 170 mm. dome on an A6000. We don't use a diopter and none seems to be necessary. Mark
  18. Matt. Are you talking about full frame or APS-C Sony mirrorless? Nauticam have 3 different size port systems that could provide a solution for you. N85 for the APS-C NEX/A6000 series, N100 for the Sony A7 series and N120 for conventional DSLRs. I know the ZEN 4" mini dome is available for Nauticam N120 - I own one. And Nauticam make N85 to N120 and N100 to N120 adapters. So with one of these adapters you would just need to work out the best port extension to position the lens optimally in the dome. I don't know if ZEN make their 4" mini dome in the smaller Nauticam port sizes so that an adapter is not required, but Nauticam themselves supply an acrylic 4.33" dome with N85 fitting. If you are considering using the Sigma 15 / metabones with a cropped sensor Sony mirrorless, you will of course loose much of the fisheye effect and angle of view so I'm not sure the exercise would be worthwhile - you might do as well sticking with a rectilinear UWA lens. The reason for using the ZEN 170mm dome as opposed to a mini dome with the Tokina 10-17 is the versatility of the 170 dome - it can also be used with the rectilinear E mount Sony 10-18 and Sony Zeiss 16-70 zoom, the latter making a good mid-range zoom for larger or skittish subjects. The edge focus performance is better than the mini dome but the penalty is slightly less close focus for CFWA. Mark
  19. I agree with this. Even if the FE 28mm/fisheye combination turns out to be optically good, for cropped sensor users (NEX/A6000) the reduced angle of view will negate much of the perspective advantages of fisheye underwater. We have partially solved this gap in the Sony range by using a Nikon mount Tokina 10-17 fisheye with a Novoflex Nik/NEX adapter. Fixed aperture and focal length when in a housing and manual focus using peaking with a custom gear behind a Zen 170mm dome. The optical results look very satisfactory and for fisheye, lack of aperture and zoom control underwater is perhaps an acceptable price to be paid for good optics and perspective? The alternative untested combination of Canon mount Tokina 10-17 and Metabones Canon/NEX adapter might offer aperture control in addition.
  20. Paul, Not quite - same glass but different mount. This is the Zen DP170-N85-II. This is the 170mm dome for Nauticam m4/3 and Sony NEX systems with a built in 30mm extension. No adapter or further extension is needed with the 1670Z. Phil Rudin started an extensive thread on this dome within this forum. Almost certainly yes. The 1 week trip we used these combinations on was primarily wide-angle, so we used the 1670Z for only one dive with pelagics, and as such it was probably used mostly towards the long end of the zoom range. We didn't methodically check at the 16 end. However Nauticam support this lens with their own acrylic 170mm port without need for a diopter and this is equivalent to the glass DP170. I also checked with Ryan Canon from Reef Photo / Zen before purchasing and he confirmed compatibility of the 1670Z without diopter. The beauty of this version of the DP170 is that it doesn't need a step up adapter, and with the 1670Z it doesn't need an additional extension. There is therefore plenty of space for the 1670Z zoom gear. When it came to using the Tokina 10-17 fisheye with Novoflex Nikon/NEX adapter, space was much tighter when an additional 30mm port extension was added. However there was still just sufficient space to design a custom gear that passed over the Tok barrel with rubber grips removed but still provided clearance within the port extension. Hope that helps. Mark
  21. Hi Marshall, yes we do have to work a bit harder and think outside the box to get the best out of the NEX / E-mount systems. For the Tokina fisheye lens, we might have been better to use a Canon mount one and the Metabones adapter as this I believe provides electronic aperture control. The reason for not going that route was the expense of the Metabones adapter and the fact that I already had a Nikon mount Tok to experiment with. After waiting all that time for the Zeiss macro to come to market and then have its firmware upgraded to work properly, it sounds as though we will have to go back to the waiting game for the Sony 90mm FE macro. I doubt it will fit in the Nauticam mini port system, but with some sort of port adapter .... I haven't seen any dimensions published. Do you know likely length and diameters? Mark
  22. Hi Marshall. Good to hear of your progress with the NEX system. My daughter and I have graduated from the NEX-5N to the A6000 and confirm that the latter's autofocus is very good. For wide angle and fish eye we are using the glass Zen 170 Mk II dome. For rectilinear the Sony 10-18 is a nice sharp fully automatic lens with this dome. We have come up with a more unusual but quality combination for fisheye. The popular Tokina 10-17 fits in this dome together with a Novoflex NEX/Nikon converter. This is a fully manual preset combination. Zoom preset usually at 10mm. so used like a prime. The aperture was preset to a relatively shutdown value and focus to an intermediate point providing a very wide depth of field and great images. Exposure controlled with shutter speed and ISO in camera. Without a port extension the lens is a bit far forward in the dome. Subsequent to our last trip, we have found that the 30mm port extension rectifies that and doesn't vignette, but this is yet to be tested in the field. The port extension has a slightly narrower internal diameter than the dome port itself and necessitates slipping off both zoom and focus rubber grips. I have now custom made a focus gear that works very well and will add focussing flexibility on the next trip and allow a wider aperture to be used. For a mid-range scouting lens, the Sony Zeiss 16-70mm works well behind the same dome without extension. Nice and sharp - makes a great lens for larger stuff like sharks. For macro we eventually bought the Zeiss 50mm macro and use it behind a macro port 45 and the 30mm extension. Again a very sharp lens, although so far only used for a couple of hours underwater. I agree with your assessment that a slightly longer focal length would be advantageous underwater by providing a longer working distance. However, the autofocus works well. With the camera set up for back button focus, in my opinion manual focus is unnecessary. I very rarely use manual focus with my DSLR system, but do sometimes release autofocus and gently rock the housing back and forth to optimise the focus point. We haven't so far used a wet diopter with the Zeiss lens so don't know how usable it will be at super-macro magnification. For travel, the system isn't too bulky - one macro port 45, one 30mm extension and the 170 dome serves the 4 lenses. Although the Tokina Fisheye works adequately behind a compact dome when stopped down, my reading is that rectilinear lenses are very unlikely to provide adequate peripheral performance behind such small domes due to the extreme curvature of the virtual image. Mark
  23. Hi Lemur, This thread might help, Mark http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48146
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