Stewart L. Sy

SOLD

This is a custom factory painted Aquatica A7r3 Pro Housing for the Sony A7r3 Camera. Includes the Surveyor Vacuum System, Optical Trigger, Front Port Cover and 2nd set of Orings. I will throw in a brand new set of grips, the T-Plates as attached or a pair of the TLC 77553 1" Ball to Flat plate mount. as well as new batteries for the Vacuum sensor and Optical Trigger. Free shipping in Canada. This will also fit the new Sony A7r3a body. I Prefer Wire-Transfer/E-Transfer. I am an Aquatica Dealer and Aquatica Ambassador (check their website). They'll vouch for me ;-) Housing has never flooded, been used on 34-36 dives. C$2800

Thanks Tim, never post commercially felt this was on topic! lol

This is a commercial post, mods, please delete if inappropriate but since folks were asking about UW tripods... You can contact me directly for pricing and configuration thanks Stewart

You're right, there's no glass in the adapters, they're simply translators...I use the Sigma MC11 with the Sigma 15mm FE in EF Mount. It's a fantastic combo.With a bit of surgery, I use the lens inside my Aquatica mini dome and can basically focus on stuff touching the dome itself. The image below had the soft coral less than 6" from the front of my dome. I also have the Sony 16-35f4 that I shoot with the Aquatica 8" Acrylic Dome but

There is a kit for the Aquatica 5dmk3 housing and convert it so it's compatible with the 5dmk4, but you're out of luck with a 5dmk2 to 5dmk3. The 5dmk3 and 5Ds/sr are identical bodies though, so I was able to use the 5Dsr in my 5Dmk3 housing...however, I left the Canon camp a while back and now use Sony. S.

The Aquatica +5 and +10 closeup lenses are designed to pop in and out of the holder using an o-ring system.

The close-up lens holder is held very securely to the older Macro port. Though if you'd like extra protection, a piece of duct tape on the port's edge will ensure that you don't get scratches on the port lip. As long as you smear a bit of silicone grease on the o-ring of the Aquatica closeup lens, then it's easy to pop them in and out of the holder.

I currently use the A6500 in an Aquatica housing, as well as the A7r3 in an Aquatica housing (I am an Aquatica dealer btw) However, I do shoot my system topside and use the Sigma MC-11 adapter. I've shot the Sigma 15mm FE, Canon 24-105 f4L zoom, 70-200 f2.8L IS ver 2, Sigma 150-600 C, EF 500mm f4L IS, EF 100mm f2.8L macro. It even lets me AF using my old Canon 50mm f2.5mm Macro. I can't recommend the Sigma MC-11 enough for use with the Sony mirrorless cameras and most EF mount lenses. S.

I prefer using dedicated lenses myself. I mainly shoot full frame (previously DSLR, now A7r3) I refer the old adage of "jack of all trades, master of none" as my guide. I'd rather be in the "zone" of wide angle or macro per dive than switch back and forth....

The 16-50 is a decently versatile lens, but the Sony 50mm Macro or 90mm is better for those kinds of images. As for wide angle, while 16mm (24mm full frame) seems wide, you'll likely be better served later by the 10-18 Sony or the 16mm pancake with fisheye converter. Here's a video taken this March using the A6500, Aquatica A6500 housing, mix of the 50, 90 macro and the Sigma 15mm FE with the MC-11 Adapter: Full disclosure, I am a dealer for Aquatica... Cheers Stewart

For Malapascua, hands down, Evolution. Dumaguete would be Atlantis.

Find a 3D printer service or a friend who has one...also a 3D printed port cap. Used the fuzzy part velcro tape on the inside to hold the cover to the dome shade. Stu

Awesome! Perfect timing as I just ordered a 5dmk4! ;-)....correction...bought a 5dmk4, picking it up in 2 hours! Whee! S.

Just posted my comparo with the A7rm2 and the 5Dsr http://stewartsy.com/?p=465 The DSLR was mounted with the Aquatica AF Macro Port, the Mirrorless has the new Aquatica Slim Macro Port. S.

I've used the D1's since their introduction, used them in both cold (British Columbia) and warm waters, and just recently the D2's. At first I did pan on the specs as I felt there were no benefits to upgrading. Then on a recent trip, I flooded one of my D2's, totally my fault, I was still jetlagged and didn't properly clean the 0-ring after silty muck dive and water entered the battery area. So, while I I was drying out the strobe in a bowl of uncooked rice, I put one of my D1's back in service. I immediately missed the quick recycle of the D2 even when not shooting full power. My buddies and I saw a blue ring octo and you could tell in my shots that the D1's were definitely slower than the D2 as the first couple-3 were evenly lit then the D1 started to lag a bit power wise while the D2 was obviously brighter. I'm still keeping the D1's as backup but my primary shooting will be the D2s. I was able to successfully revive the D2 after cleaning the battery compartment with white vinegar, then a douse of rubbing alcohol then an overnight soak in dry uncooked rice. Cheers S.

Just returned from the Philippines and got to use the Sony A7rmk2 in the Aquatica A7rmk2 housing. For wide angle, I used the Sigma 15mm in EF Mount with the Metabones adapter and the Aquatica 4" minidome, I also got to use the Sony 28mm f2 with the fisheye conversion lens using the Aquatica 6" acrylic dome. Both worked extremely well with the camera and port combo. I was shooting the A7rmk2 against my 5dsr and will have a review up on my site shortly Cheers Stu

I thought I'd miss the 10-17 when I went FF, I even tried it with a 1.4 TC on my 5dmk3. Looking at the images, most were shot with the lens racked back to 12 (any wider and the dome appeared in the image), so now, I shoot the Sigma 15mm with my 5dsr. Next week, I'll be taking the Sony A7r2 with the 28mm with Fisheye adapter to the Philippines. I'll also have the Metabones adapter with the Sigma 15. You can't get wider than 180 degree diagonal without going to the Canon 8-15. Your other option is the Canon 11-24 but that's less wide than a 15 fish. S.

This behavior is unfortunately rampant in Anilao. One one occasion, guides from a well known to WP members move a Cerasatoma alleni nudibranch from where I was shooting it in a small overhang at Kirby's Rock to the top of a small rock so that their guests would be able to get a black background. A couple of years ago, a post was floating around about the "Banana Split Rhinopias Shot" Where a Brown, White and Pink (signifying the flavours in a traditional banana split sundae) were moved to very shallow depths in Mainit Muck so that divers could take a shot of this "once in a lifetime" opportunity, once in a lifetime was right as the fish were never seen again. My guide told me that they were found in the 25 meter plus depth and when they were taken to 8 meters, and put together... they are a territorial critter after all... =(. I do questions the photos of critters that are obvious bottom dwellers that are suddenly splayed out in the water column and conveniently has the sun behind them... Anilao is not exclusive to this behaviour, I've seen it elsewhere in the Philippines and I'm sure this happens in other photo heavy dive destinations. As photographers, we have to stop thinking of getting the shot and just let the shot happen.

SOLD!

Hi Folks, Have 2 almost new S&S YS-D1 strobes, Used in a couple of dives, have Custom Neoprene covers for them as well. U$ 1100 for the set including shipping anywhere in Canada or Lower 48. These were my personal units and have worked perfectly! Have not even used the included o-ring grease. Cheers Stu

I have the exact same setup, but during the initial pump down stage, I do a couple to three more pumps after the LED has turned green. I've taken the system down to recreational scuba limits with no change in LED colour. Also, I wouldn't suggest leaving the system pumped down as it would accelerate battery consumption. Regards Stewart

I make my own snoots for the D1 and now making a set for a friend's Z240. The light on the D1 isn't bright enough to aim with, especially if you're looking at piggy backing it onto the main light. I saw that someone sells a laser that you can mount on the arm to help aim them, I think it was 10-Bar. Cheers

I have shot higher speed bursts underwater. I used my 5dmk3 shooting at 6fps with the YS-D1's. By default, as the 5dmk3 does not have a pop up flash, I used electrical sync cords. I used this set up mainly for mandarin fish or anemone fish shots. Using the D1's at 1 click under half power, sometimes even 2 clicks. I find I can fire around a 2 second burst with the D1's. I don't do this often and do let the strobes cool down. Most of the time the burst is for 6-8 shots. Optical triggering by the factory popup flash won't usually work even if you manually set the flash to low power as (in Canon's case) the body limits to 3fps. If you want optical triggering then you'll need some sort of converter from electrical to optical, like the one found on S&S housings, I believe this setup will also do TTL, but I don't have first hand experience. cheers S.

After the vinegar, rinse out with fresh water then 99% rubbing alcohol. The alcohol should displace the any leftover water and dry with no residue.