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Stewart L. Sy

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Everything posted by Stewart L. Sy

  1. I've used them, but my views may be viewed as biased as I sell them. ;-). There have been a couple of posts here on the forums about diopter use. Here's one: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47939&hl=%20aquatica%20%20diopter FWIW, there is no image degradation in the images I've taken. S.
  2. Are you talking about an external diopter or one that screws onto the lens? Since you're using Aquatica and likely have their ports then Aquatica makes the Closeup kit that's matched to their macro ports and comes in a +5 or +10 power. With external ones, you don't need an extension, just a mounting system, an internal one may need a short extension depending on the power. Here's the link to the Aquatica ones. http://www.aquatica.ca/en/accessories_closeup.html and a link to the Subsee ones http://reefnet.ca/products/subsee/ External ones are more flexible as you can remove them and basically have 3 magnifications underwater. A screw on type close up filter that mounts inside the housing pretty much limits you for the whole dive. You loose working distance with these lenses but gain a lot as both brands are multi-element and retain their magnification underwater, much more so than single elements ones. Cheers S.
  3. Hi Sean I last shot TTL with my Canon A2e in a Subal housing in 2002. I then had a 10D in a Subal C10 housing and only had manual strobe capability. I brought both housings with me on a dive trip, fully expecting to miss the TTL of my film camera. Short story, film cam stayed in the bag and I had 14 rolls of Kodak 100VS in my freezer for a couple of years till I gave them away. It's not hard to adjust to manual strobe exposure with a DSLR's instant feedback. Turn on your "Blinkies" (over exposure warning) and make sure you don't crowd either side of the histogram and you'll be fine. It's very easy to change your camera settings or strobe power to get a good exposure. For Macro, you can likely get by at 1/4-1/2 power, depending on your starting ISO and about f11-16, 1/125th. S.
  4. I calibrate all my lenses. There is a noticeable difference especially with Macro or Super Tele as you have thin DOF in both instances. I use Focal, but look up the free technique called Dot Tune. There's a Youtube video on it, takes about 5 mins per lens. I calibrate on what I think my working distance would be, rather than the 25-50x focal length. S.
  5. Hi Folks I have 2 dealer demo iTorch Video Pro 4 lights (1300 lumen) lights, has 3 power levels in White and 3 in Red. http://stewartsy.com/itorch-video-4/ retail is $ 500 plus the YS 1" Ball Adapter plus a YSe ball adapter (Ultralight AD-SS $23.95) I'm selling each for $450 ($79 in savings). Includes charger, spare battery, lanyard and of course the adapter. Shipping anywhere in Canada/US. No original box though. $425 each if you buy both. Cheers S.
  6. Hedwig, can you maybe supply a longer power cable with the large battery so users can wire the battery somewhere else on the housing? S.
  7. I just used it on my last trip to the Philippines (the non-OS version), great for when you're shooting with a full frame DSLR (used with the 5dmk3 and the Aquatica A5dmk3 housing). I used the 18462 port extension. I was able to use it with the Aquatica Close Up kit as well. Very fast AF, very sharp lens. S.
  8. The D1 has a small loop molded into the body specifically for securing the lanyard that the diffuser comes with.... S.
  9. Hi Jason, I'm in Richmond BC, I'm also originally from the Philippines. I'm an industry member here on WP as I'm a dealer for quite a few brands of UW Photo Gear as well as leading trips for UW Photographers to the Philippines. I just came back from 2 weeks in Anilao and will be doing Malapascua next year, last year I was in Moalboal & Oslob. Cheers Stewart
  10. Rick, I was around 6 - 8 inches away from the anemone fish. Cary, 4" Mini-dome. S.
  11. Having just tried it, I can vouch for the efficacy of the Seal Saver spray. It's sold by Aquaseal as a Silicone Spray. My Aquatica A5dmk3 housing came back from Anilao looking like it had a case of mange. Now it looks new. Stu
  12. Took this last week in Anilao, Bonito Island to be exact. Camera & Exposure Specs: Canon EOS 5dmk3, Aquatica A5dmk3 Pro Housing, Tokina 10-17mm with Tamron SP1.4 Pro TC, Twin S&S YS-D1 Strobes on full. ISO 200, f16, 1/100. Lens zoomed to 12mm plus TC= 16.8mm, Aquaview 45 was crucial to the comfort of the shooter while taking this shot. Plus it helped with getting the housing down closer to the reef. Cheers Stu
  13. Scubanomad, How about we schedule your visit in conjunction with a visit at the same time of that of an Authorized dealer? ;-) I've yet to go bug Jean at his office...only by phone or email. But he's already come to visit me so turnabout is fair play! Stu
  14. Reminds me of the old joke of the Admiral vs the Lighthouse. The US Navy was given a token fine...should have been bigger since they blatantly ignored the warnings of the rangers who were stationed at Tubbataha. As for the poachers who had the 200 Pangolins, their boat should be sunk and turned into an artificial reef!. Stu
  15. Hi Folks If anyone is going to the Tacoma Dive and Travel Show, please drop by Booths 906 & 908 and say HI. Be cool to meet more WP members. We'll be off to the left as you enter the Exhibit Hall. Regards Stewart
  16. I strongly recommend the red filter in Anilao on night dives. Keeps the worms from swarming all over you. I'll be in Anilao a month from today. S.
  17. I switched my Aquatica 7D from N5 to FO mainly for increased reliability. Sync cords can (and in my case) fail a couple of times over the years. Spares are relatively expensive to carry. FO Cords are cheaper and lighter (great for the traveling photog where these days, it's like every ounce counts). I had a guest on my trip last year accidentally yank out the hotshoe wires of his housing. I had a spare set of optical bulkheads and cables so we swapped his electrical cords to FO and he's not looked back. You also remove a potential source of failure since there is no electrical contact between the strobe and housing, easy enough to see a kink in an FO cable, not so easy with electrical cords unless you bring a multimeter with you on a trip. Another benefit is that FO users gain back TTL (assuming their strobes support DS-TTL and it's various versions). However, the camera does slow down, in TTL, you 'll wait for the on camera flash to recharge, even shooting in manual mode with the flash turned all the way down, the 7D went from 8FPS down to 3fps. Not a big deal really when shooting UW. One is limited to maximum sync speed of the camera, whereas on electrical cords, you can fire at any shutter speed. Handy on those cameras (like the 7D) that can actually sync at 1/320th when the shot is a vertical. Horses for courses....if N5 works for you, then leave it alone, but there are lots of benefits (and a few minor drawbacks) with FO strobe triggering. Cheers S.
  18. Stephen, if you want to balance out your dome then then maybe consider investing in ankle weights and securing 1 round your port extension, some DIY folks cut a bicycle inner tube and get fastex buckles and lead shot to make their own. Another option is the lead weights used by a tire shop to balance your car's wheels, stick those on the bottom side of your dome port. When I'm using my 100 macro on my housing, I find it front heavy, and I use the Stix port collar to balance out my rig. AV, the Megadome is pretty heavy since it's glass, 2 of the large Stix floats fit on 1 8" arm, (Ultralight or TLC), 4 floats give about 1.6lbs of bouyancy. If you want more, TLC has a float that you mound on the cold shoe mount of the housing. S.
  19. You can use this bulkhead with the YS-D1's. You'll still be shooting manual. The center pin is the 6th pin and you'll need a 6 pin strobe cable (and the attached TTL converter) to realize any differences. You won't get eTTL by just going up to a 6 pin bulkhead. The new bulkhead system is easy to replace. You simply need to remove the o-ring inside the housing the holds the bulkhead in, then pop out the old one for the new one. The circuit board is held in place by small screws. Unplug the bulkheads from the board, remove the board and hotshoe, replace the bulkheads and put in the new board and hotshoe. Stewart.
  20. I leave mine in setting 1. You're not tracking flying birds or race cars. If the subject is slow moving, set to One Shot, if it's moving, i.e. a shark swimming towards you, set to AI Servo. I use the Setting 1 to shoot birds in flight, so a fish is not a problem for the Mk3.
  21. That would be the wrong thing to do. Set up the camera to single AF point then use the joystick to move the point around to where you want the focus to be. Activating all 61 points gives up that control and the camera could lock on to something that you don't want. S.
  22. As an Aquatica dealer, I shouldn't comment, but here's a review by Tim Rock about the Aquatica +10: http://www.guammicronesiadivetravel.com/travelblog1/?p=1560 S
  23. I've successfully gone after a couple of companies who've used my images without my permission and they were ordered compensated by the court. Having gone through the process specifically here in British Columbia, there's a couple of things that you should know. 1) If you go into small claims court, you will need to do it in the court system of the city where the violator has offices. In the case of the Nautilus, it would actually be where I am right now, in Richmond. You have to file the case here in Richmond Small Claims then send the motion to the Nautilus by registered mail or personal delivery. This should show them that you are serious about going after them. 2) If they don't settle (thinking that you are an out of towner) and the suit goes to court, you will have to come back to Canada on your appointed court date. I would recommend a couple of things 1) DO NOT send an invoice any more, if you do go to court, then you'll be limited to that invoice amount, I would bring standard usage rates from an established photographic site to show what compensation is to be expected. My claim was awarded 3x the usage due to infringement. 2) If you do go to court, then it will be up to the Nautilus to prove that it was not you who took the image, you have the RAW files and can easily show the judge your NEF files. Best of Luck Stewart
  24. Just use gaffer's tape aound the shiny parts of your filter. Gaffer's doesn't leave any residue. S.
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