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Stewart L. Sy

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Everything posted by Stewart L. Sy

  1. I tried setting the S&S Cord further back from the sensor, but nothing happened. Another option maybe would be to extend the FO Cable so it sticks out of the end of the port, that may give a better spread of light, but the S&S cord end is molded around the cord, can't push it out further. I'll see if I can find a thicker FO cable, maybe that would help in light transmission. S.
  2. Hi, I bought one of Hedwig's Micro LED Strobes for my Aquatica A7D Housing with the new YS-D1 strobes, unfortunately, I couldn't get them to work. I guess this is due to the off centre position of the S&S's slave sensor. But this is supposed to work well with Inon strobes as per this post on the WP forums: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44632&st=0 $120, including shipping anywhere in the US & Canada. Cheers Stu
  3. Do you mean the Aqua View Viewfinder? If so, then yes, there is an adapter that is sold by Backscatter for $ 50. S.
  4. I most definitely recommend saving up for the 10-17 and not use the 17-70. You will end up wishing for either wider or more magnification. I do echo what Jean recommends for super macro use. The +10 with a 105 is definitely a specialist lens...I have enough OOF shots from that combo (well 100 Macro & +10) to prove it! Pretty much every cropped sensor housing we sell inevitably ends getting set up for the Tokina. If you can swing it, getting a housing with optical bulkheads lets you use current strobes with either Manual or DS-TTL. S.
  5. Not a vignette, but almost a lensbaby like effect. If you're not using the correct extension for the lens then the focal point of the diopter will not line up with the lens. I found this out shooting the Sigma 150 macro f2.8 with the +10. The extension was too long and pushed the focal point of the diopter too far. Kinda like moving a magnifying glass back and forth to start a fire...
  6. Hi Kirk Yes, the top mount is a quick disconnect like the holder, the bottom is a 67mm threaded mount...that the Aquatica diopters also have. A bit more secure that way. S.
  7. Sorry, I don't know. I had the first one from the anodizing tanks last April in time to show at the Tacoma Dive & Travel Show. S.
  8. Kirk, As per your request: Full Closeup Kit attached to the Aquatica A7D Housing. Diopter with Red Ring is the +10, Ringless is +5. Holder is machined aluminum with 3 nylon screws that tighten down on the port. Here is the Lens Caddy by itself: and here's the rice grain sized nudi: Image was cropped by approximately 25%. Cheers Stu
  9. Jim, The Aquatica has a lens caddy that mounts on the housing's handle. It's part no. 19354. The caddy can accept both +10 & +5 simultaneously. The caddy is threaded on one side and the quick release on the other. The Aquatica mount is very sturdy, a simple push and twist locks in the lens. I used the set extensively over 2 weeks and didn't have a problem with the unit coming off. There was another customer with me on the trip and he had the exact same setup, he had the same experience as I did. As for shooting full frame, working distance doesn't change, as optics aren't changed, you just get a larger image since you're shooting full frame vs crop. S.
  10. If you go to my gallery of images from Anilao, Philippines, the purple nudi, 3rd Row, 4th Column: http://stewartsy.com/anilao-was-just-like-coming-home/ that was taken with the 7D, Canon 100 f2.8 Macro and the Aquatica +10. The nudi was about the size of a grain of rice. The image is about 75% of the original. IQ wise, there would be no difference really with the Subsee or Aquatica diopters. But the Aquatica close up holder is quite a bit cheaper than the Subsee holder and it's made to fit on both versions of the Aquatica Macro Port. The O-ring retaining system is very sturdy and there's no danger in the diopter falling out. http://stewartsy.com/when-11-macro-isnt-close-enough/ Working distance with the +10 is about 2-3 inches from the subject. Full disclosure, I am an Aquatica Dealer, but the prices I'm quoting are readily available by checking the website of both Aquatica and Subsee. S.
  11. Hi Darryl, For Question 1: Getting good lighting underwater means getting up close and personal with whatever you're shooting, if you're wanting the reef scenics with nice colour then you'd need to get as close as you can, a Fisheye helps you get close. You are gaining the super wide of a fisheye with the 10-17 and it gets to be rectilinear as you zoom in. IMHO, the 10-17 is better suited for UW (in my style of shooting at least). In many wide images, you don't try to evenly light the entire scene, you use your strobes to paint the subject of interest then let things go to blue/black. If you want an evenly lit/nicely coloured reef, you might have better luck with the Magic Filters where no strobe is used. Question 2. DSLRs don't work the same way as P&S/Mirrorless cameras. They use separate sensors for autofocus, these sensors do their jobs extremely well and extremely fast. Faster (for now) than what most P&S/Mirrorless systems claim they can do. So if you use live view then you will be relying on the slow contrast detect AF rather than the dedicated phase detect system of DSLRs. A DSLR doesn't do Live View anywhere near as well as a P&S/Mirrorless camera. The big viewfinder (I have the Aquaview myself) is almost akin to composing your image using an IMAX screen vs a regular movie screen when through the standard finder. You can of course do it well with the standard finder but if you make the "mistake" of looking through the big VF's, you won't be to happy going back to the standard VF. S.
  12. Regardless of housing or camera, if you do decide on a cropped body the Tokina 10-17 fisheye zoom is immensely popular. Very sharp, very flare resistant and if you couple it with a Tamron TC, you can do wide angle macro shots with a small dome. S.
  13. Hi, I've got a dealer demo unit for the Aquatica A7D housing, comes with the optional moisture detector, 2 x 1" Balls for the handles and spare Oring set. Retails for $ 3116.00, asking $2850. Housing is set up for with 2 optical bulkheads for S&S strobes and we have the Inon style bulkhead included as well. Housing looks great, has about 30 dives on it. Will include shipping anywhere in Canada or US. Cheers Stu
  14. If you have a D800 housing coming to you, then you will need the Type 4 gear. The following housings use the new gears: AD7000, A5Dmk3, AD800. As for the extension, the main thing to be concerned about is vignetting at 16mm. Since your current port is longer than what Aquatica lists for the 18458 then best way is to test it. If you don't get vignetting then the extension will work, not optimally as it would having the correct extension but at least you get your image. You may want to check your image corners for smearing as well. I'd suggest asking a Moderator to move this to the DSLR section of the forum as well. Cheers S.
  15. My 7D shoots up to 1/320th as well with no bands in verticals, but I get them in horizontal shots. I was using the new YS-D1's with Electrical Cords. S.
  16. I was at Dive Solana in June, awesome place, good food, close to the muck sites. Stu
  17. Great images! I love Anilao, was just there in June...can't wait to go back! Stu
  18. I guess t I guess this question wasn't answered.... while an Ikelite housing would fire the S&S YS110a strobes, it would only do so with manual power settings from the strobe. The only way to get TTL with an Ike housing is to use Ike strobes. If you want to enable TTL in other housings, as long as the housing has an optical port, then you can trigger the YS110a in DS-TTL mode or if you want, in manual mode. The choice is yours and you can change the settings UW. Many shooters like to use TTL for macro subjects and manual for Wide Angle. You are also constrained by your on camera flash as to how fast you can take a follow up shot with TTL. You have to wait for that small flash to recycle properly. Whereas in Manual Mode, you can set the on camera flash to as low as 1/128th power and still get the external strobes to fire. S.
  19. For wide angle shooting, a good compromise for length and portability would be 8" arm sections, 2 on either side. Stix Large floats are available for both ULCS and TLC arms. S.
  20. The Video Pro 3's are a good light, but the 4's have double the power =). S
  21. Alastair, the correct extension for the 105 is the 18453. (28.5mm), 18456 is 16.5mm. S.
  22. With the Aquatica 4" Mini-dome, the correct extension is the 18456. S.
  23. I've had really great luck with the iTorch Video Pro 4, especially like that it has a user replaceable battery and it comes with a spare, so you can always have 1 on charge. Slightly bigger than the Sola though if size is an issue. S.
  24. Did you have the switch in the right position? You should be in Manual, not Slave or TTL. S.
  25. I echo Jean's comments after using the mini-dome on my last trip. I didn't bring the 8", just the 6" but since I do stop down when shooting wide, I cannot tell the difference between domes. S.
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