davec13o2

Miru, Good point. I'll give it a try. Nice Komodo shots - a good push to put it on my list.

I tried out the Nimar led trigger with several strobes (YS-03 and Meikon ST-100) and several fiber cables (Sea&Sea and HowShot). It didn't work with any of the strobes and cable combinations. However, it would trigger the strobe if brought into contact with the strobe sensor, without a cable. Since then, I tried the above strobes, plus Z-330s, with the two cables and a UWTechnics trigger, which all worked fine with a single or dual cable attachment. Visually, the Nimar flash looks much weaker than from the UWTechnics. I can only conclude that the Nimar optical signal is too weak.

reconsidered

Looks good to me. Could you further explain your quoted comment above? Do you mean you always used the lights, but at reduced intensity or did you not use lights at all in some situations? Did you use a single light? How long was the arm? Would you say the level of your color grading was light, moderate, or heavy? What would be the reasons not to use HLG and BT2020? Did you do any white balancing, or relied entirely on filters? Have you projected these clips on an HDR TV? Thanks for any comments, Dave

Does anyone use the Sony Picture Profiles? I'm interested mostly in ambient lighting video at reduced depth with an a7RIII Would Cine 2 or 4 be better than S-Log considering that scene lighting can rapidly change making post production difficult? Or should I just go with PP1? Thanks for any comments and suggestions. Dave

Would you be interested in selling without the camera, lens, and batteries?

I modified both the original Meikon case and the Seafrogs NG case (Sony a7RII) for the plastic fiber optic ports in anticipation of using the UW-Technics converter. You need a small milling machine to do the case mod - requires care and precision cuts - not recommended unless you have machine shop experience. Strongly recommend the UW-Technics bulkhead replacement instead that can trigger 1 or 2 strobes by fiber optic depending on type of exterior rubber bushing.

Yes, I thought as much; but I just finished polishing an acrylic dome and don't look forward to shooting again with one. They seem to scratch if you just look at them the wrong way. Going with the Nauticam/glass dome approach is too expensive.

Does anyone have the Ikelite DL case for Sony a7RIII, using the flat 90 mm macro port? Does the same port fit the 16-35 mm f/4 zoom? Thanks for any information

The thickness of my YS fittings is 0.475", and it's a good slip fit into the fork end. It doesn't take much squeeze with the bolt to keep it in place. You could use a single (or couple) of thin (0.010" thick) sheet aluminum pieces with holes for the bolt to take up the extra space. Where I live, Home Depot and some hardware stores sell such material.

Impressive work. They look tiny. What are those riffled structures?

Lots of great information. Thanks so much. I see now that this will take much study and careful observation - a big change from just jumping in and snapping away - but a great deal more interesting. Thanks again, Dave

I'd like to plan a one week trip to the Caribbean in November to look for nudibranchs. Is there one area better than others to increase the chance of sightings, or is it uniformly just a matter of looking carefully? I've checked out the book "Cayman Nudibranchs" by Turner, et al; and at this point, suppose that would be just as good a destination as any other.

Here are the dimensions I used for milling my case. Note the shoulder that makes it a bit more complicated.

I use the Howshot cables for Inon strobes from Diversion. I assume they're multicore, but I haven't verified that. I get the same results with Meikon cables and with unknown brands from China via ebay.