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EstaDive

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About EstaDive

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    Sea Nettle

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  1. I have a similar issue with my Meikon housing for a Canon mirrorless. Below 100ft, the shutter button sticks in the housing making it difficult to do a half-press for focus and requiring you to pull it back up between shots. I found pressing on either the left or the right side of the button can sometimes make it hit better. Once I get above 100ft, it works fine again. I never found a good solution, but most of my dives are not so deep, so I stopped worrying about it.
  2. Thanks I actually saw your ad but it was far out of my price range. I ended up going with a slightly older dSLR and ikelite housing.
  3. Im looking to buy a sync cable to go from an ikelite housing to two sea and sea strobes.
  4. I have been using a Canon EOS-M and have found the autofocus pretty terrible. Even using the focus lights on my YS-D2, the camera struggles to focus on the subject correctly, and it often tries to focus on particulate matter. Its basically useless when trying to focus on far away, low contrast subjects such as schools of sharks or rays. I am trying to figure out if this is a problem inherent in contrast detect autofocus, or more of a specific issue with the EOS-M. I was looking at upgrading to a Powershot G7XII, given the affordability of the camera and housing, but wondering if it will be sufficient or if I would need to go up to a mirrorless camera with phase detect autofocus like the EOS-M5.
  5. I've gotten tired of my EOS-M's constantly trying to focus on the backscatter and missing the subject and am looking to upgrade. I'm looking to buy a underwater setup (housing and camera) with good phase-detect autofocus capabilities. I'm not particularly concerned about the model and would be interested in: Nikon 1, Canon EOS M5/M6/M50, Fujifilm X-Pro2/X-T2/X-T20/X-H1/X-A5/X-E3, Olympus E-M1II, or Sony A6xxx/A7/A9 models.
  6. I was shooting raw 18MP. Looking again, it does seem that there is more detail that can be recovered from the white tips, but simply adjusting the highlight seems to make the translucent parts too dark. So potentially more work with the curves could help with this... I was shooting at 31mm zoom. I've attached the full, uncropped image. It sounds like maybe getting closer would help? Or maybe not because it would shrink the depth of field? It sounds like the blur is most likely coming from camera movement. Is that correct? I was also a little uncertain about the autofocus, since the EOS-M has notoriously slow auto focus, and it can be a bit hard to gauge if it has settled correctly from looking at the live screen through the housing. The "sweet-spot" for this lens is f/8-11, so maybe going down another stop could help smooth over focus issues.
  7. @phxazcraig Thanks so much for the tips. I shot with 1/125th. I’ll try faster shutter speeds and stopping down further for macro shots like this. There wasn’t much detail left in the highlights in Lightroom, but i’ll tey adjusting the exposure comp on the flash ttl to not blow out the highlights.
  8. I just got a strobe, which has improved the quality of my photos tremendously, however I am still struggling with sharpness. I'd appreciate any suggestions on what I can do to achieve sharper pictures. Here is a photo of a white lined dirona that I took, and a full size enlargement. I was using a Canon EOS-M, 18-55mm lens, shot at f/8, @1/125th, ISO 200, +1 diopter filter, with an Sea&Sea D2 strobe on TTL metering. [edited to include shutter speed]
  9. Johnny, it looks like that solves a different problem from what pbvales was mentioning. That (and the turtle) translate from the canon hotshoe signals to optical TTL signals that the flashes can understand. It sounded like pbvalves was talking about building a strobe that can understand the Canon specific optical wireless TTL signals (the kind that is used by on-camera flashes, or the ST-E2 transmitter).
  10. Interesting. There are a few more details that do not appear to be covered in that description. In order for TTL to work, the external strobe needs to send out a preflash that the camera reads. Presumably this happens during the "sync pulse." The canon protocol also supports up to three different flash intensities - I would assume part of the sync pulse is an address bit that tells which strobe to send out the preflash. Are there any commercial UW strobes that support this protocol? I was trying to get it to work with my Sea&Sea YS-D2 but it did not seem to respond correctly.
  11. I just picked up an ST-E2 canon flash transmitter, which does not turn off, can trigger the flash in manual mode, but it uses a canon specific TTL sync protocol that the Sea and Sea does not respond to properly. So that unfortunately is a no-go.
  12. I have an EOS-M with a Meikon housing and I am trying to figure out the best way to trigger an external strobe. I got a 90EX speedlite, which works fine to trigger the strobe. It works with the camera's TTL to instruct the Sea & Sea strobe to output the correct power. HOWEVER, it has an annoying auto-off feature: whenever the camera turns off, the strobe shuts down as well. I can enable the camera screen power down and disable the camera system auto-off, so the camera will stay on the whole dive. However, I would really like to be able to turn off the camera between dives, and not need to open the housing again to turn the 90EX back on. I was wondering what my options are and if anyone has reccomendations. So far I have considered: Just open up the housing to turn the flash back on every dive. Works okay, but I'm worried about getting water into the housing when reopening it. Leave the camera on between dives. Potentially okay, but I battery barely lasts two dives as it is. Maybe I just need a fresh battery? Find another flash that doesn't auto power off. I've looked at some others, but they seem to also have power-save features that can't be disabled. Get a dedicated underwater strobe system. TRT-electronics makes one, but it's really expensive. For that price, I could get an EOS-M3 with a built in flash, and a new Meikon housing for it. Try to add a new bulkhead to the housing to use an electrical flash trigger Either try to add a new button to the housing to turn the flash on, or solder something on to the flash button and link it to a new button on top of the camera power button so that the power button turns on/off both the camera and flash. Any recommendations, or other, simpler options that I have overlooked?
  13. I was at the dive shop the other day and was looking at the Kraken Hydra 1000 WSR Plus Focus Light. It was pretty inexpensive, but the red light seemed very dim compared to the Sola 800 photo light.
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