Charles Stirling

It going back a couple of years but Nuweiba, South Sinai, was great for unlimited shore diving particularly with Scuba-College - Diving Camp Nuweiba where it was a 1 min or less walk to the sea from the dive centre, and they also had a RIB for more distant sites. African Divers Nuweiba didn't have a house reef (too shallow just in front) but were going to introduce unlimited diving. Emperor Divers, at Coral Hilton Nuweiba had unlimited shore diving but sadly have now pulled out. I don't know if anyone else has yet taken over their dive shop. Maybe worth checking out if you want that far north. It is a bit isolated and I don't know how the current situation in Egypt is affecting the town. Charles

Thanks for the info on contacting FIX in Japan.

Thanks for responding, sorry have been busy for a few weeks. Do you have any contact details for FIX in Japan. Sounds like this might be the way to go. I'll have a go at making a tool to pop off the cover cap on the switches to see if I can expose the screws to undo them. Not sure about removing the circuit board to check that.

I had a single drop of water which came through one of the switches on my FIX LED48DX now problems with circuit board with light not turning off and not all the LEDs lighting uniformly. Can't find out to dismantle it, i.e. get the circuit board out, switches off. Or is their anyone in the UK who repairs these lights? If I can get it repaired any way to routinely re-greese the switch O rings?

Certainly some land strobes will fire at 25 and more shots / sec. Can they be synchronized with the frames on video? Charles

As bad as the boats which allow dogs with all their shedding hair along to help. Charles

OK, I'll wait to hear. Charles

Hi Alex, I have the Subal DP-SWB and 7" domeports, plus FP-FC60, and the one for 105mm macro, various extensions and gears I could sell. All from use on the housing for F100 camera (I think it was called N-10). Not using as now using Nexus housing on the digital camera. Location is Bristol. Regards, Charles Stirling

I started with a Nikonos but moving to an F100 in Subal housing really improved things, then to digital and it went backwards at first. The F100 gives a good sized, bright, image in the viewfinder. For the same in digital need full frame. The ttl with the F100 still works better (or at least as good) as the best digital. With manual exposure the digital offers great advantages. Downside of film for me, limited exposures (only occasionally a big problem). Need to scan the film (if looking for prints or doing slide shows, not a problem). Need to carry film through airports. No backup of photos. Running costs almost seem higher for digital as its so easy to get pushed into wanting a better computer, more back ups, software and updates to it. It really comes down to what you want to do with the resulting images I think. Publishing - digital is quicker, easier. For prints maybe film. I'm all digital now. F100s sit on the shelf, Subal sits on the shelf. Charles

Thanks for all the information. It does look like the Nexus housing is a rather adaptable one. Sam, I'm still interested in the adaption kit D200 (older M5 port) to D300 and maybe also for D700 sometime when you get the chance. Charles

Doesn't the D200 Nexus housing front half take the slightly smaller port than the D300 housing? Do you know if the back window is the same on the two housing? It seems like the Nexus D200 housing, if it can take your new back window, could swap back and forth between the 3 cameras (D200, D300 and D700) which would really be great if needed in an emergency. I also notice on your photo of the front of the Nexus D300-M6 the lever seems to exist to change the M, S, C controls which isn't on my housing and wanted? Great work, Charles

Maybe try one of the Audio optical fibres for a more robust optical connection, see: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23789

Hi Oriol, I don't have that exact setup, but do use fibre for firing the Z-240s from a Nexus housing. To fire the D2000 from the Z-240 should be fairly easy. First is having a way to attach one end to the light sensor on the D2000 which is easily made from a spare sensor cover and audio fibre cable (see http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23789). On the Z-240 if you use the diffuser I suspect just a bit of tape holding a bare end on it might well work as an interim measure, while a more professional approach would be a screw into one of the diffuser fixing hold and a small saddle. Charles

With the D200 anyway the flash only needs to be open about 12mm or so. Might work in more housing with this opening. In the Nexus housing it isn't all the way open but most of the way (may keep heat load less). I've used the housing with and without the internal mirror setup and both worked. The Strobe light guide mirror for NEXUS wouldn't allow the camera to fit properly when it arrived - sat slightly to low and hit the camera body. Had to dismantle by taking the hinge pin out and turning it over, reinserted the hinge pin so it was now folding "upside down" but the rather large plastic nuts which hold the mirror still hit the camera. Replaced them with countersunk screws and all works fine giving good clearance. Charles

I've used my cheap Toslink cable on a few dive trips, no problem past 50m depth anyway. Their seem to be two main types, the ones with 1mm plastic fiber optic which is the one which is fine. A slightly more expensive one uses a much finer glass fiber cable and this has a more open structure which would fill with water, not what you want. Oh, I didn't worry about sealing the ends either. Probably much more robust than my electrical cables which could track water down to inside the port socket. Charles