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About MD4P

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  1. This may sound odd, but I am looking for help going "backwards" in UW photography. I started with a Nikonos V more than 20 years ago, then in 2003 went digital with a Nikon CP5000 in an Ikelite housing with dual strobes (old SB 105 from the Nikonos, and Ikelite DS 125). The camera gear, batteries, etc weighed more than 20 lbs, and was very bulky, so I quit taking it on trips. I really miss the photography and want to start again (anyone interested in buying what I have?) The catch is that I broke my back 6 months ago but have recovered enough to go diving again (YAY!) but I have to go small, compact, and lightweight. My husband has been using a little Sony P&S in a housing that has been discontinued. Picture quality not great, but he does it for fun, not for showing off. My question is whether there is something reasonable out there that I can use without a strobe (I know it will be mostly monochromatic with a lot of backscatter), as it is just not possible for me to travel or dive with the extra weight and bulk. Thanks for any advice.
  2. Anyone have experience with the Maha rechargeable Lithium batteries in the CP5000? Thomas distributing advertises them as having 20% more run time than the manufacturer's, which would be very helpful, since from what I've read a 60 minute dive is pushing the limits of the CP's battery.
  3. Thanks for the recent additions to my original post starting this thread. After doing lots of reading, I think the Ike CP5000 housing with the dome port for the 19mm lens is a good choice for me, as the LMI Tetra + WA lens may be more than I want to spend at the moment. That said, I just need to be clear on the strobe issue. Ike, maybe you can help here. I have an SB 105 and standard synch cord that should work to hardwire to the housing. I should be able to shoot using manual adjustments or "TTL" and should not need any additional controller, right? I hate to sound stupid, but sometimes the more I read, the more confused I get, and I want to order the right stuff soon (I haven't forgotten you, Ryan) so I can start playing with it.
  4. Would appreciate any advice about TLC vs ULCS arms. I'm considering an Ikelite housing for a CP5000 and have an SB105 strobe. I use the Ikelite 1-1/4" ball/clamp arm for my Nik V and find it heavy and cumbersome, so I'm looking for a smaller/lighter system that will support that strobe. I think two 8" arm segments should be sufficient. What about a light for night diving? Is it better to get a separate holder for a light to attach to the other handle, or just strap a light to the strobe head as I do with my Nik V? (I have a cute holster for a mini-C, and there's always duct tape ) Thanks
  5. Thanks for all your comments. As Rob mentioned, the SB105 does have intermediate settings between TTL and full, and the advantage of the Tetra would be the ROC allowing 12 incremental adjustments. I'm pretty sure I can figure some way to rig a modelling/focus light to whatever housing I get. I was intending to buy a wide angle lens that could be attached underwater so as to maximize my options during each dive. It's one of the prime reasons I'm moving from my Nikonos V to digital. We're going to Palau next January and the thought of missing out on sharks or mantas because I planned to shoot macro that dive is awful. So, the optics of an add-on may not be ideal, but the versatility is more important for me. That being the case, is there a big difference between the Tetra wetmate and the aquatica w/a lenses (besides the price)?
  6. I'm leaning toward buying a CP5000, and I already have an SB105 strobe to hardwire. Any thoughts on pros and cons of the Tetra 5000 vs Aquatica 5000? The ROC system on the Tetra is intriguing, but is it worth the extra cost? The Aquatica looks great - compact, rugged, and rated to 100m. Any experiences with the companies I should consider?
  7. James- Thanks for your prompt response. I had, indeed, read your articles about getting started and using strobes. The first article mentioned the Oly 3040 and CP 995, but I understand there are some differences now with the newer Oly 5050 and CP5000. Trouble is, just about the time anyone has enough experience to write a good review, there are new cameras on the market. Same with housings. Your article on strobes was also very informative, and helped convince me that synch cords were way better for me than slaves. Hence, my leaning toward the Tetra housing and ROC system. No real difference in price between the 5050/Tetra or the CP5000/Tetra, and I already have the strobe, a Nikonos tray/arm (don't know if it will fit) and various Ikelite ball/socket arm pieces that I should be able to adapt. So the cost issue is quite manageable. Nemo- Thanks for your input. As I said, I'm definitely leaning toward the Tetra for the ROC capabilities and a little more comfort if I happen to go deep. A friend is going to lend me his CP5000 to play with on land - that should help narrow my decision. Thanks again.
  8. I am about to take the digital plunge after years of shooting with a Nik V. I think I've narrowed down the camera choice to the Nikon CP5000 vs the Oly C5050, and would appreciate any advice re pros and cons of each. The housing choices are more confusing. I have an SB-105 strobe already, and would like to use this, hardwired for "digital TTL". Can always get a second strobe when I master the rig. I am intrigued by the ROC capability of the Tetra housing for the CP, and see that LMI just announced a Tetra housing for the C5050 with a similar option, though it is controlled through the strobe controller rather than through the camera (I don't understand the practical difference between the two). I've not read anything about Tetra housings on this forum - there must be a reason nobody here is using them. Thanks for your help.
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