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scubanerd last won the day on November 2 2017

scubanerd had the most liked content!

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About scubanerd

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/01/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Colorado, USA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon d800
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam d800
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    L&M Video Pro 3800
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms, FIX 48LED light
  1. Nice to hear you are liking the IBIS of the GH5. I have had a tough time getting some 'real' reviews of the benefits of IBIS UW. I have been successfully shooting Macro with and without a tripod for many years. Sometimes a tripod is just not an option and I don't like to rely on it. I was just in Indonesia and trying to perfect my skill with the SMC, easier said than done. I am hoping the IBIS can assist with that level of macro / zoom. Your comment about 'i would feel naked without it'. Do you feel IBIS is helping on WA shots as I normally don't have much of an issue on WA assuming conditions are not extreme. Please elaborate. Thanks!
  2. I am setting up my new rig and have been battling between buying the GH5 or S version. GH5 seems awesome for stabilization and the S seems awesome for low light performance. I am planning on using an 8mm for wide and a 60mm for macro (paired with a SMC). It dawned on me today that maybe the best choice is 'both'. Since they both work in the same housing, why not load the housing with the S for wide angle dives and use the GH5 for macro? I figure for macro I will also have artificial light so low light is not needed, and having the ability to stabilize those super macro shots could be very beneficial. Am i crazy or brilliant?
  3. I am in Colorado, US Pics: Nauticam Housing - rear front - (you can see the scratches I am referring to on the top of the housing. This was caused by my monitor resting on it during boat travel). I also have the port cover but thought it would be better to leave it off for pic Zen 230 - This pic also shows the 'scratch' i was referring to: Zen 230 - Dome Macro & Extension Ring: Sola Top: Sola Front: Let me know if you need more, just took these quick with my phone
  4. For sale - Nauticam NA-D800 housing & ports. Details: Complete housing with M16 vacuum valve & included vacuum pump Used - about 400 dives. Never flooded Recently had complete overhaul from Reef Photo, about a $600 service. All O rings replaced and everything lubricated and checked. 33 dives since overhaul Great shape. Couple of scratches on the front/top of the housing but purely cosmetic Retails for $3800. Asking $2K as standalone (kit price below) Zen 230 Dome port with extension ring: Used in conjunction with the Nikon 16-35 F4 VR rectilinear lens Zoom gear Great shape, no scratches on lens. Minor scratches on bottom port hood from use Retails for $1899, asking $1k as standalone Nauticam Macro port 60 with extension ring 70: Macro port 60 to be used with 60mm Macro lens Use extension ring 70 for use with 105mm Macro lens 67mm thread for added lens (such as SMC) Perfect shape, no scratch on lens or port Retails for $700 (port + ring), asking $400 Two Sola Video 2500 Flood lights: Great shape, minor wear and tear on casing Comes with chargers and bags Retails for $350 per light, asking $350 for pair Kit price - I would prefer to sell the whole kit so offering an extended discount for the package. Your black Friday deal is $3K total for everything listed above. I can provide pictures as requested. Happy Thanksgiving!
  5. Hi all. When I was looking for monitors and decided on the SmallHD 501, I found it a bit difficult to find some good reviews on it. So I thought I would post my recent usage review for anyone looking at this setup. Background - I have been shooting UW video for about 15 years, and been through many different rigs. The only other rig I have owned that had an external monitor was the L&M HC3 setup. The monitor was good for framing, decent for color/balance, and no help on focus or DOP. I converted to using a dSLR about 2 years ago in order to take advantage of the optic capabilities that a dSLR offers. In using the dSLR for video, it became very apparent that the optic 'capabilities' also offer some optic 'challenges'. In particular i have found that with the full HD anything that is slightly out of focus is basically unusable. I cannot count how many times in the last two years I thought I had the footage, but in post review the image was slightly out of focus and was trashed. In came the need for a real external monitor. Setup (no monitor) - I have a Nikon D800e housed in a Nauticam enclosure. I have a couple of lenses, but I find myself either shooting the 18-35 wide angle with a Zen 120 glass. I use the 200 for macro work housed in the standard nauticam flat port. For lights I use 2 L&M Sola 3000 and also run a Sola 800 Photo for red lighting when needed. I normally equip the housing with a Nauticam 90degree viewfinder. Setup (with monitor) - Changes to the housing: You must have an open M16 bulkhead to install the HDMI cable/adapter. If you do not have an open one (i was already using the 2 M16's on my housing), you can purchase the optional adapter that provides the suction valve in addition to the M16 bulkhead. I purchased one. I moved the existing Nikonos style strobe bulkhead into the position of the existing suction valve (right side) and then used the adapter to provide a spot for the HDMI bulkhead in addition to keeping the suction valve. The HDMI bulkhead is designeded to go on the left side of the housing. The housing comes with two ULCS style ball adapters mounted to the housing. These were/are already in use for mounting the lights & arms. I installed two additional ULCS ball adapters on top of the housing. Once these were in place, I used 2 3inch ULCS arms and a 3 way ULCS adapter mount the two arms and the ball adapter. This provided a solid method for attaching the monitor to the housing. I tried with a single arm, but it was too flimsy out of water. This also allowed the monitor to be moved up/down and also pivoted if needed. UW, I found the setup to work perfectly, and many times I was shooting by only holding the monitor whilst the camera was in a hole or tough to reach place. I have pictures if anyone would like to see it After getting the monitor mounted, it became evident that keeping the 90degree viewfinder was not an option. The conflict on the space they need. So i installed the standard viewfinder that comes with the housing. More on this below. After the adjustments to the housing, everything else was pretty standard. As noted with other posts, running the HDMI cable through the housing and connecting to the camera is a bit tricky, but doable. You may want to change the settings on your camera for the HDMI output. Personally I like mirroring what is normally on the camera LCD screen. Since the SmallHD does NOT do recording, this is a fine option and gets me all the info. I then turned off the LCD screen on the camera to save battery. Review - The monitor and housing are bigger than you expect and adds some additional bulk and heft to the rig. For my diving this last week, I had to walk about 800 ft in the sand to get to the pier. By the time I made it to the pier, I was tired While in the boat, I just kept it under my seating location and overall it faired well while crashing into waves and the like. Asking the captain to hand me my rig after entry was a bit of a challenge, i have not weighed it but I am guessing it is 30-35 pounds out of water. In the water, it is very nice. Overall I would say the monitor housing was neutral and did not really affect the buoyancy of my rig. I have worked on this over the years trying to perfect it. It is about .5 neg in the water and is very easy to maneuver. I found that overall the monitor performed as expected. It allowed me to confirm the following while diving (no surprises in post):Focus options (peaking, etc) were amazing. This is the first time I have had this feature UW, I could never go without it again. Example, I was filming a mantis shrimp on a night dive. It was acting very strange and I was forced to keep moving the camera closer and further due to its movement. The monitor allow me to re-focus when necessary. in previous attempts, I am sure I would have lost focus without knowing and the shot would have been lost. Having all the info (LCD info) on a readable screen was very useful. It takes some steps out of my work flow such as checking shutter speed, exposure, ISO, etc. I felt like it was much easier and realistic to modify these settings at will. Previously, was would typically fix the ISO and use shutter and exposure to compensate. Being able to see/adjust all of these DURING a shot was very cool. Many times I would use the focal length I wanted for the scene, and then use shutter to brighten/darken the scene. If shutter was not applicable, I would adjust ISO to help compensate for contrast. Pixel zoom (just click up on the monitor joystick) was surprisingly helpful, especially with wide angle shots. Be aware that with the nikon series, when you click the 'record' button, the video output has to re-sync with the camera. This causes about a 1-2 second lag on the monitor. This did not really affect me, but certain times I definitely hit record early to I could frame and focus properly. Lastly, I tried to perform some still photography with it, I did not enjoy the experience. First off, you have to use live view for taking the pictures. This comes with it own set of limitations (depending on camera model). When you press the shutter release, the camera has to re-sync. Then if you have review turned on, the monitor blinks again. Finally to go back to taking a picture, the monitor blinks one more time. This adds precious time to the overall workflow for taking a single picture. It is useful for a quick snap here and there, but if I was setting up for strictly stills, I would remove the monitor and put the viewfinder back on. But that is just my opinion. Additional thoughts - These monitors support LUTs (look up tables) in order to apply a 'scene' for post production. For example you could apply a sepia scene to it. I have gone away from red filters and would prefer to add it is post. These monitors have the capability for a loupe that would allow you to play the raw content from a source (camera for example), run in/out of the monitor, and apply LUT's. The output would go to your recording device for final post fixes. I have heard reports of the monitor getting very hot while in use. I did not have this experience. However, I did not run the monitor all the time. I found the monitor was good for about 4 continuous hours while on full brightness. So I was shutting off the monitor for parts of the dive.
  6. For those who may run into this problem in the future, here are the details on the L&M Compact Monitor Power Supply: Output: 6v, 250mA Size: 2.5mm Polarity: Center Positive
  7. I seem to have ruined my L&M power supply that charges the compact monitor (Blueray, etc). I am going to contact L&M to see how quickly (if at all) i can get a replacement, but in case I cannot get one in time I was hoping someone out there could give me the output details on the OEM power supply? (volt/amp) Maybe I can use a standard DC adapter in a pinch? Thanks... Ryan
  8. I agree, the problem with the buoyancy is the fact that we are shooting extended periods of time, it is a non question for still camera's. I also like your point about having to combat the weight. However, take it down a notch on the weight side; what is easier to hold steady for 10 seconds, a perfectly neutral housing or one that has ~some weight to it? Since most manufacturers of housing try to make them slightly negative I am guessing they believe that is preferred, but is it? Or does it just come down to skill
  9. In your opinion does the buoyancy (+/-) of your rig affect your footage? Is it easier to capture steady footage with a heavier rig? If you hold a feather in one hand and a brick in the other, which one stays more stable over 90 seconds? My wife has a new dSLR housing that is ridiculously heavy UW; I have been going through the steps to adjust the buoyancy of her rig and my mind starting wandering into video land. With a still camera it seems to make all the sense, the flash is going to freeze any motion you have anyway so why not have a near neutral rig. But I am not sure it translates to video. Opinions? Ryan
  10. When I asked L&M about it they told me the difference was the gear required to use manual focus. I purchased the new 105vr port...
  11. Just adding my opinion. My L&M housing came with locline arms for the lights. I prefer ULCS arms for 2 reasons, 1 you can get more distance/positioning with ULCS and 2 the locline arm mounts for the L&M gave the arms some play which caused the lights to wiggle a little. It drove me nuts. I also like the fact that I can easily add options to the ULCS arms such as a slate, monopod, etc... Ryan
  12. L&M answered my email. They are hoping to have a prototype by Oct 2007; we will see about a delivery date.
  13. Maybe I wasn't very clear in my question. Let me try again: If I wanted to use the new HD 16:9 external monitor from Amphibico/Gates on a L&M housing, is there a way to convert the L&M plug/signal to conform to what the Amphibico/Gates is looking for? I currently use the L&M external monitor that takes the output signal (regardless of camera setting) and converts it to 4:3 SD. And actually I am not sure if the monitor is doing the conversion or of the output from the housing is already converted. I have done a little more research since my initial post and it does not look promising. I have an email into L&M to see what their take is on an HD monitor. It seems that I would need to modify the bulkhead or create my own to allow this to happen; all of the HD hookups I have seen are 5/6 pin and the SD bulkheads are usually 3 pin. If I hear anything back from L&M I will post it here. Ryan
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