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Posts posted by dave@immersed

  1. Does the screw not reflect? I would duct tape it. Or maybe develop a magnet style weight unsure if possible!


    Screw head is painted matt black, although it needs a repaint after being taken off the dome and rolling around in my luggage after the last trip...

    Haven't noticed any reflection.

    I do remove the weight regularly as it traps salt water and is a hotspot for corrosion.

    I used an enamel spray paint on the screw, but I use this artists acrylic "carbon black" paint on the white writing on the lens itself to prevent reflections inside the dome, works well:


    • Like 1

  2. The housing and camera with the dome is 100 grams positive however as you point out the dome is super positive and twists the camera making it almost impossible to put it on the tripod legs

    For video handheld this is not too much of an issue as long as the rig is not positive and you dont let go

    I believe a solution like you suggest os perfect

    One problem is how easy this was to scratch when I was inside the Thistlegorm I had small dents and I polished it twice on the field so I recommend having a kit at all times

    Yes the dome is a bit vulnerable and I've had to use my micro mesh kit during surface intervals... :blush:

    Here's my weight system. My usual WA setup is pretty much neutral with this weight attached and although slightly "dome-up" is easy to hold horizontal with little effort.



    • Like 1

  3. I think the 12-60mm performance with this dome is exceptional

    Me too, very happy with it, nice for portraits, sharks, and when you wish you had your macro lens on...

    How do you find the buoyancy of the dome? More of an issue with video.

    I've drilled a bolt hole in the "petal" and securely fix a small lead weight, which helps the tendency to lift at the front in landscape mode. Lead weight is approx 250g, slightly more would be better.

  4. Thanks for the examples, they look very crisp and amazing! Seems like q very solid lens!

    Yes I'm really happy with the lens, also topside.

    It can be a bit soft in the corners inside the dome, at 8mm, but I can work with it and it is much better than when I was using a 7-14 Panasonic lens inside a 6" dome.

  5. OK, I've uploaded a few high-res photos to this web page. Tried to pick a few varied scenes to show how the camera deals with it.




    These are jpg files straight out of the camera, GH5, 7" dome with 8-18mm lens, no cropping, no adjustments, all shot at ISO200, other camera settings are shown on the image.

    Only thing I've done is "export from Lightroom as jpg" so I could add a watermark and annotation.



    You should be able to download the individual images at original resolution and have a look at them more closely in your photo editor.


    No large animals really, I've got plenty of manta shots but only as frame grabs from video. For sharks I use the 12-60.


    Happy to help. Let me know how you go.

  6. some really nice shots on your Fiji gallery, off topic but who did you dive with?

    Thanks Chris.

    I was on-board the Nai'a. Excellent boat, fantastic crew, very comfortable, amazing food (free drinks with dinner!). Decent camera facilities and careful handling by the crew, they are used to photographers. We had great conditions, not much sunshine and generally windy, but great viz and suitable currents (but at 26C it was a bit chilly for a mostly tropical diver ;-)

    We didn't see another dive boat, I wish the same could be said for Raja Ampat these days...

    I will definitely go again.

    Trip report here:


  7. Yes,


    If you can pick some at high res it would be amazing and highly appreciated. For me it's hard when looking at your website to know which lens you used, unless I'm missing something obvious.


    Thank you!

    You're not missing anything, no captions to tell which lens was used, but most of the wide angle are 7" with 8-18 Leica.

    OK will organise high res examples somehow; is it the 8-18 Leica lens that you are interested in?

    So I can pick some useful images, is there any particular kind of image quality aspect that are you most interested in? eg dome vs lens, overall sharpness, corner sharpness, flaring, low light etc?

  8. There are plenty on my website shot with the 7" dome.

    I reduce them to 1860x1140pixels and 550kb for the website but you get the idea.

    I can pick one or two and upload a higher res version if you like?


    Just back from a fabulous trip to Fiji. Most of these were taken with the 7" dome, with 8-18 lens, or sometimes 12-60 (ie sharks), with a few macro and fisheye photos in the mix.


    Yes it really was that colourful, in fact Lightroom "auto" settings significantly reduced the saturation 'cos it didn't believe it!

    I find that in processing I often do a small crop to help with the soft corners if shooting at 8mm, say a 5% crop.

    The 12-60 works really well in the dome.


    The wide-angle photos in the Raja Ampat, Egypt and Maldives albums were mostly with the 7" dome too.

  9. Very nice. I really admire the macro work especially. What was your lens set-up?




    Thanks Matt.

    The dive sites, boat, captain, spotters, "buddies", conditions allowed me to spend quality time to get the macro shots, not something thats easy or suitable on many dive trips and locations (eg in Raja Ampat recently I didn't even try to get macro video)

    Macro was GH5 with Olympus 60mm, no wet lens. One or two clips may have been with a Panasonic 45mm (since sold as I found the 60mm better stabilised with the GH5, which surprised me, considering the 45mm has OIS and the 60mm relies only on the GH5 IBIS). Although I generally used a tripod, sometimes it was just a monopod and hand held, so the stabilisation helped.

    Wide was with Panasonic 8-18 and some portraits with 12-35.

    Lighting with 2 x Weefine 5000 Solar Flares.

    • Like 1

  10. The Sony is a great little camera. I spent a few years with a first generation RX100 in Nauticam, with S2000 strobes and it was a great system (still have it actually, sometimes carry it as a backup ;-)

    In fact if you don't need 4k video then maybe a second hand older camera/housing would be fine and allow you to spend the change on accessories.

    You will find any of the RX100 series much better than the Sealife...


    The RX100 needs an adaptor to do any macro, eg a macro adaptor like the Nauticam CMC. Good idea to get a flip mount for it.


    The WWL-1, although said to be fantastic with the RX100, will turn a small light travel system into a heavy bulky one, so be careful.


    Be aware that the battery life of the Sony is short. One dive only, so spare batteries are essential (a standalone charger is useful), and good battery conservation practice is helpful during a dive to make sure it lasts until the end.


    I'd recommend a vacuum valve, it gives great peace of mind. Nauticam's system is excellent and has saved my camera a couple of times...


    The Sea Dragon light - might be better to get something new and try to sell that with the Sealife camera as a package? You'd have to rig up a mount for it as it uses the Sealife mounting system I think.

    • Like 2

  11. Thanks for taking the time and providing feedback.

    No filter.

    Lights used on most shots but a few were ambient (eg manta). I spent lots of time practicing my manual white balance...

    It was often quite dark with little ambient light anyway.


    My first version was longer, with cuts generally double the length, but I received feedback that it was too long and a bit slow! I agree that this one is more like a showreel so maybe I'm trying to squeeze too much content in to one movie and should go for fewer but longer clips...


    thanks again

    • Like 1

  12. Video from a trip I did to Papua New Guinea - Milne Bay last year aboard the MV Chertan.

    Weather was pretty dreadful, we really only had one sunny day in 2 weeks, and the unseasonal wind kept us away from diving the reef pinnacles, but we thoroughly enjoyed long, relaxing and interesting dives on the coastal slopes and shallow hard coral reefs, a great place for a still photographer to practice video ;-)


    This was my first time for macro video; I felt comfortable using a diy tripod as many of the sites we dived had sandy/silty bottoms.

    Not a particularly fishy or colourful place at the time, but good hard coral and fabulous critters




    PS how do I "embed" a youtube video instead of just providing a link?

    • Like 1

  13. Thank you for sharing, David.

    I like your video, colors are balanced nicely and music selection is good as well.

    Have you used video lights or a red filter? I do not see shadows anywhere.


    No filters, I used Weefine Solar Flare 5000 lights (x2). Not quite Keldans, but they give a nice temperature and even spread.

  14. I use the GH5 in Nauticam for both stills and video.

    I've stuck with the "traditional" approach of "wide-angle behind a dome" and "macro behind a flat port", but I am following with great interest the newer options like the WWL-1 which is impressive.


    If you're interested, here are some recent photos taken with the GH5 at Raja Ampat. Most of the wide shots are with the Panasonic 8-18mm behind a 7" acrylic dome (but a few with 12-35 or 8mm fisheye) and the macro are taken with 60mm (no close-up lens).

    I enjoy using this setup for wide and macro but have struggled to get good fish portraits. I'll be taking a 12-60 on the next trip.


  15. One can never have enough Raja videos if they come as good as this! Very beautiful. Did you use Cinelike D or VLog color profile?


    NB: That was a pretty solid shark getting cleaned in the background ;-)


    No, it was all shot in standard profile (my V-Log key didn't arrive in time...) and this footage is all 8bit.

    I tried hard to get white balance and exposure good in-camera.


    That grey reef shark caught me by surprise! I wish I had ignored the manta for a while and concentrated on the shark, but at least I got it.

    I was really pleased to see so many sharks in Raja actually, and the grey reefs were impressive. We also had a close encounter with a large hammerhead on one of the reefs (Melissa's Garden) , well my buddies did, I was too busy filming a stupid sweetlips or something and completely missed it!

  16. I have just connected my GH5 to a field monitor and I think I now understand the issue that Dave mentioned


    Basically you can't switch off the LCD if you do you can't operate most of the control so what you do is to operate the LCD and the screen in parallel


    From my preliminary test the screen focus assist and zebra are not better than the camera one. The only feature that is very useful is false colour but you would only do that occasionally.


    You only realise once you have the screen how useful are the features of the camera like the level gauge

    Yes, the camera features are already excellent and I was quite happy to revert back to camera-only from time to time. However, I found the monitor focus assist to be more useful than the camera peaking function, and the adjustable position of the monitor made it easier to compose and focus (at least for my dodgy eyesight and short arms... ;-)

  17. A video from Raja Ampat in December/January.

    Mostly wide-angle (I really don't like using tripods in places like this, so with the macro lens on I tended to stick to stills)


    Colour and light was often challenging, with some green water and lots of plankton/particles as you'll see, but of course thats one reason its such a wonderful place!


    GH5, mostly using Panasonic 8-18mm, sometimes with 12-35, one shot with 8mm fisheye I think.

    On board the Seven Seas, with a few shots taken during a very relaxing last week at the RA Biodiversity Resort.


    Full version:



    Short version:



    PS - Keep an eye on the background in the manta sequence ;-)

    • Like 3

  18. I use Photo Folio.

    It is a bit pricey... but it does all of the things that you are looking for, and more.

    Very good at managing image quality/size on various platforms. It handles thumbnails beautifully.

    A nice feature is the iPad app which enables off-line viewing; great for taking on remote dive trips ;-). Lots of other features such as pdf builder, "hidden/client" areas etc.



    Perhaps my own website isn't the most compelling example, but I found it very easy to establish and it has been completely stable. Editing content is quick and easy and the website is updated in real time.



    Yes it is expensive (I pay $34/month) but it is secure, maintained and gives me peace of mind.

  19. What sort of housing do you have? I was diving in Halmahera last year with my Nauticam and had no fogging issues, air temperature was around 32° and quite humid, water temperature was 29°. Keeping the camera cool really won't help much with fogging. The housing is watertight and the water content inside does not change so changing the temperature won't change anything unless you managed to get a drop of water inside when opening the housing. If this were to occur then getting the housing hot would vapourise the water up to the saturation point and then when the camera cools off in the water it will condense on the coldest surface.


    Desiccant can help as you are trapping humid air inside the housing when you close it and if the desiccant absorbs it, then it can't condense on the housing- but there are important provisos - the capacity is limited and once full it has no impact. You need to keep fresh ones inside a sealed container like a ziplock and only get them out to put them in the housing. The other alternative is to open the housing in air conditioning so the trapped air has lower humidity. . Of course be sure you mop up any water clinging to the o-ring when you open the housing.


    You can do calculations on this for example at 32°C air temperature and 90% humidity inside the housing, cooling the housing to just 29°C will have you at the dewpoint and condensation starting. 90% humidity is very high - at 80% the dewpoint becomes 27°. In theory because an aluminum housing has high thermal conductivity any condensation occurs on the housing metal rather than the glass as the metals cools off faster, but is there excess water it will also condense on the glass. A vacuum system should also help, lowering the pressure lowers the dewpoint of the air, meaning it has to get colder before condensation can occur.


    The important point is that heat alone will not cause a housing to fog, it's the amount of water inside it, you can't make water by heating the air up.

    Thanks Chris, great post. I use a Nauticam also.

    My post was a bit misleading and my comment about the water being warm was perhaps a bit of a red herring...

    In my case I believe that the root cause of my fogging was due to me trapping excessively humid morning air inside the housing (you know, when you make a last minute decision in the morning to go macro instead of wide...).

    My theory is that fogging was triggered on the inside of the macro port when a heating camera caused a temperature gradient across the housing. Fog formed on the port as the glass was cooler due to the (relatively) cooler water. The "warm water" comment was more about the overall issue of the camera getting hot and the ambient water temperature being too warm to counteract this.

    I might have got it back to front, but it seemed like the aluminium housing (high thermal conductivity) was being heated up by the camera, whereas the glass was relatively cooler and so was subject to condensation.

    Interestingly, it wasn't just me, another guy on the boat with the same rig (GH5 in Nauticam) occasionally had the same issue when using a macro port. It was a rather wet and very humid trip (and coming from Darwin I know humidity! ;-)

    Anyway, yes, the morale of the story is to keep moisture out in the first place and I had no fogging problems when I was more careful and trapped less humid air inside the housing, but sometimes you just can't help making the lens/port switch at the last moment ;-)

  20. Interesting.

    I see some features like false colour and focus assist however those are really intrusive and probably zebra and peaking will work better at that point negating the need for such a complex monitor

    What did you use?


    On the SmallHD502Bright monitor I generally used zebra and Focus Assist. The Peaking function on the monitor is very subtle, more so than the in-camera focus peaking and I found it hard to see. The Focus Assist however is very clear and easily customisable and I found it easier to use and adjust than the in-camera peaking. It can be "toned down" to a level where it is not intrusive at all. A really useful feature of the monitor is the ability to quickly scroll through custom displays, each one set up with different tools and sensitivities to suit the shot. I suppose the same effect can be achieved using the camera functions (and therefore would work on a less complex monitor), but I found the monitor custom displays easier to adjust and switch.

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