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Everything posted by dave@immersed

  1. It was less of an issue than I was expecting and I didn't run out of camera battery during a dive (apart form when I forgot to switch the camera off on the way to the dive site...) I didn't notice much difference between the EVF and the LCD in terms of battery usage, but I was too busy enjoying myself to do any proper testing. Yes, using the LCD for an info screen was the best solution, although I rarely used it and generally relied on the monitor display. The biggest issue I had was occasional fogging in the camera housing towards the end of the dive. I got into the habit of turning off the camera between sequences to keep the camera cool, which helped greatly. Have never had this problem before but the water in Raja was very warm. Didn't notice any issues with autofocus with the monitor connected. I generally had the camera set on manual focus and focused using back-button auto, apart from some macro work. Monitor has a very slight image delay but it didn't bother me. Overall I really enjoyed using the monitor and also found it extremely useful for stills. Obviously its useful for macro, with its great zoom functions and in-monitor focus assist, but also helpful for awkward macro angles and under-over wide shots.
  2. Do you find the zoom from 35-60 to be useful underwater? I like my 12-35 II but there is a big gap between that and my 60mm macro, and wondering if I would find the 12-60 useful for sharks and stuff, or close up portrait? (plus I can use it inside my 7" dome) Would be a nice "all rounder lens" upgrade for topside too...
  3. I "trained" the cable to loop that way and it seems happy enough. Its close, but doesn't interfere with any buttons or twiddly bits. Let me know if you need more pics.
  4. This is how I loop the cabe in the housing, and it (just about) allows me to slide the camera out enough to change battery and card. Its close to the focus zoom mechanism, but doesn't foul it.
  5. Hi, sorry I've been "out of range" in Raja Ampat. Do you still need a picture? The cable does a loop inside the housing, which allows the camera to slide out enough for battery and card change. No problems with the cable during 5 weeks of heavy use, but I have been careful...
  6. Hi guys, Still in Raja :-) but heading home soon. I've been really happy with the Pany 8-18 inside the 7" acrylic. Yes, stills are a little soft in the corners when fully wide and at less than around f8, but I don't see it as pin cushion, just a slight stretching and softness, particularly for close-up WA, as expected. For video, the 16:9 aspect reduces the corner issue (and if I use e-stabilisation it "helps" further by cropping a little...) I don't see much distortion, just a bit of corner stretching and its still quite sharp, although I try to keep it above f5.6 at all times. Overall I'm happy with the results. I'll eventually post some examples. The lead weight on the front of the dome makes a big difference (I forgot it on one dive after removing it for split shots...). It is still a bit "front-up", but quite comfortable and it may have saved the dome from a few scratches ;-). I have enough floats/arms to make the rig neutral. Gotta go, I'm supposed to be editing video, not browsing Wetpixel, and anyway its time for a late afternoon snorkel ;-)
  7. I believe its the "camera to bulkhead" cable that has caused problems, due to the tight fit, coiled cable and micro plug at the bulkhead. I've just done 3 full weeks with the Nauti GH5 and SmallHD 502Bright with no cable issues, but I have been really careful with the cable and always gently ease it into position. The battery and cards can be changed without unplugging the cable, by carefully sliding the camera outwards but not removing it from the housing completely. I have a spare cable en route just in case but so far no problems. The monitor is great by the way! Housing is bulky but fairly neutral and I can happily place it either above or behind the camera as required. Monitor housing has a single cable pre-installed from monitor, through monitor housing, to camera housing bulkhead, so there is no "housing to housing" cable. Its plenty long enough to allow gentle curves and seems robust enough.
  8. Yes the centre is fine. Its similar to how the Pany 7-14 behaves in the same dome (if I look back at some of my older stills with that combo). I think you'd need to zoom to 10mm or more to avoid the corner distortion but I haven't tested. It was the softness of the 7-14 in that dome that drove me to get the 8-18 and 7"... I'm happy with results from the lens inside the 7" dome, its not perfect, but to get any better would involve glass and probably various extensions/adaptors. I also love the lens topside. I have made up a weight to attach to the dome to assist with buoyancy. 250g of lead and its still a bit front-buoyant but much more manageable. I've just packed everything for a big trip to Indonesia starting Sunday, so from now on its going to have to be real world testing!
  9. I've done a bit of testing in the pool. Here is my rough comparison of the Panasonic 8-18 in the Nauticam 6" vs 7" acrylic domes: The lens fits in both, but the 6" is noticeably softer (distorted) in the corners and edges. The photos below are frame grabs from 4K video on the GH5, cropped to lower-right quarter only, lens at 8mm and F5.6. Not a proper test by any means, but it was enough to satisfy me that I will only use my 7" dome with this lens, even though its a bit bulky.
  10. Every lens that I put behind a dome port gets a coat of matt black paint on the white lettering and surrounds. "Carbon black" acrylic paint from an art & craft shop. I really don't understand why lenses have to have white lettering on them anyway, other than advertising...
  11. I've been testing my nice new SmallHD monitor atop my GH5 housing before leaving for a big trip this weekend. Its working well, I'm now trying to figure out the best camera settings to minimise camera battery usage, whilst keeping the camera "live and ready to shoot" as much as possible. I had hoped to be able to turn off both the LCD display and EVF, however I find that if one of them is not active then, although the monitor still gives me a live view and information, I can't access all camera functions. - If I switch to either EVF only, or Display only (by using the F5 button), then the camera operates normally. - When both camera displays are turned off (ie by scrolling through the "display" button options on the GH5), I can operate the shutter, iso etc, but I can't adjust the aperture, shutter speed or back-button (auto) focus... I guess this isn't a great surprise, as the camera functions that cease are those that use the sensor. I've read conflicting reports about which uses the most camera power, the EVF or the LCD display... any views or suggestions for energy saving settings?
  12. My system has evolved over the years. Its a personal thing really, but the most important thing is to have a system that is consistent during a trip, so that you know exactly what you've done. I have never lost images due to failed SD cards or hard drives, but I have due to poor file management. I do try to do some editing/cullling while on trips, it saves time when you get home and is also a good way to learn/improve while on a trip. I have one of the WD wifi / card reading hard drives; its a great idea, and fine for short trips, but I found it frustrating for longer trips and I missed having my MacBook for "logical" file management. I found it good for stills, but completely useless for video as it doesn't allow smooth playback of videos to an iPad, even an iPad Pro. I use Lightroom and FCP at home, so I like to use the same when travelling. Once you know how to use these systems "on the go" then it makes it much easier to incorporate libraries etc from your laptop to your desktop once you get home. My MacBook is primarily for travelling, so I clear almost all media before the trip, but it still fills up if you don't do some file management during the trip. Stills are not really an issue, its video that makes it hard. My current solution is to use (expensive) external SSD for video. This fast drive allows me to store externally and create a referenced FCP library, leaving the Macbook's storage for proxy/rendered files and stills. I make a second untouched copy to a regular external hard drive for peace of mind before clearing SD cards..
  13. Flip adaptor is sold, but the CMC-1 is still available.
  14. For sale : Nauticam CMC-1 in excellent/as-new condition, with flush mount adaptor. Only used a couple of times. US$220 plus shipping (AU$300) Nauticam 67mm Flip Adaptor for 67mm macro ports (25101), used but in good working order. US$150 plus shipping (AU$200) US$350 for both. Items located in Australia but will ship worldwide. thanks Dave
  15. For sale is a Nauticam 45 degree viewfinder in perfect/as-new condition. Only used it a few times, I now use an external monitor. Currently configured as part number 33205 for Nauticam MIL (mirrorless) housing, it converts to 33203 for Nauticam dSLR housing by changing the collar (both collars included) Costs US$950 new. Offered at US$750 (AU$1000) plus shipping. Located in Australia, happy to ship worldwide. thanks Dave
  16. Owned from new. Well used but in good working condition. AU$1300 (or US$1000, 880 Euro) plus shipping at cost. Located in Australia, but happy to ship worldwide. This sale is for Housing only, fitted with Vacuum valve and a working pressure/moisture alarm. Ships with vacuum pump and spare 0-ring. (no ports included, although I could possibly be talked into selling my macro port with Panasonic 45mm Macro lens...) The rubber on the handles is slightly perished. Replacement handles are available from Nauticam if required in the future. https://www.nauticam.com/products/pair-of-mil-housing-handles-with-screws This is a fabulous housing to use, very ergonomic, only selling because I now use a GH5. GH4 camera bodies are now quite economical to buy, and still a great option for high quality stills or video. Please see my other listings (up soon), which may interest you: CMC-1 (plus flip adaptor) 45 degree viewfinder Panasonic 7-14 lens with ring gear thanks Dave
  17. Maybe these guys can help with a cable? https://aerialpixels.com/shop/audio-video-cables-accessories/ultra-thin-hdmi-cables/custom-hdmi-cable-builder/ Perhaps a more flexible cable will put less strain on the connections. I've just returned from a trip where someone had an intermittent connection problem with the GH5 and SmallHD monitor. Apparently due to the camera cable being nudged by the zoom/focus gear when the knob was turned, enough to upset the micro fitting on the bulkhead. "Fixed" by using twist-ties to ensure it didn't snag. Feedback has been provided to Nauticam... I'm waiting on my NA-502B housing (and NA cable...) to arrive, so interested in getting an additional cable as spare.
  18. Maybe you want a 180/straight one, but I've got a Nauticam 45 degree viewfinder for sale if you're interested? Excellent condition, only used on about 10 dives. (Its for a DSLR - Nauticam 33203, but also comes with a conversion kit/collar to change it into the 33205 version for a Mirrorless housing, which is what I did. I'm now using an external monitor instead) In Australia, but happy to send worldwide.
  19. I've taken the plunge and picked up the 7" acrylic Nauticam dome port today (I'll be able to claim back the VAT ;-) The removable hood on the 8-18 lens is way too big to fit through the "extension" part of the dome port, so the hood can't be used anyway... It is much bigger than the 6" (sorry for pointing out the bleeding obvious but there is more difference than I expected.) It appears to be a bigger section of the same radius sphere as the 6" I'll be getting it wet in a couple of weeks time, on my first trip to the Red Sea since 1993! (I mostly dive in IndoPacific). I'll also try it with my Pana 12-35II, usually used inside the 6" dome for video and portraits, to see if I can just take one dome for both on future trips... Living room testing suggests that it'll be fine in the 7" dome; it doesn't appear to vignette. It does extend quite a bit on zooming (photo below shows it at 35mm) and only just fits inside the 6" dome in any case (the hood must be removed on this lens too btw). Hoping for decent baggage allowance on Egypt Air...
  20. Yes perhaps it will, but I'll do some testing and report back in a few weeks.
  21. Yes, I'll be using the 8-18 for mostly stills, and perhaps for blue-water video (ie not too close up to reef so the edge effect is less evident, eg mantas etc). I currently use my 12-35 for general uw video, so I'm wondering how that will fare inside the 7" Nauticam dome (which I have settled on by the way, due to availability, timing, cost and portability ;-). It would save me carrying both domes around (although its always good to have backup...) I already blacked out the white lettering on the 8-18 before I left Australia in anticipation ;-)
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