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helgromite

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About helgromite

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    canon
  • Camera Housing
    ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    ikelite
  • Accessories
    ikelite

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  1. Yes, I bought the longer extension to try the 28-80, gambling that it would be equal to the 28-70, but it just didn't match the the sharpness at the edges based on testing in the pool. I suppose I could use a modern fixed 28mm and give up the zoom on some video dives.
  2. If using a Canon R5 with a WACP-1, the optimal lens listed by Nauticam is the 28-70 II f3.5-4.5. If you are using this setup for video be aware that this is a lens with old technology. If you are panning or swimming through a tunnel for example, it chatters as it hunts for focus. I bought another 28-70 thinking the one I had was defective. The second one did the same thing. I tried the 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 V USM, a quieter lens, but the image quality didn't match the 28-70. Even if you are attaching your own audio post, the image can jump when it tries for quick autofocus. My solution has been to hamstring the AF by reducing the speed and sensitivity on various settings. Of course for stills this not an issue and the image quality is outstanding.
  3. Would you be interested in an Ikelite housing I have one for a Canon 5D Mk IV
  4. Ah you are correct. I was confusing my 1.4 HDMI with the newer 2.0 cable, that does run from the Ninja V to camera without a break. Then the weak point is likely to be the plug going into the camera, where the connection is torqued or disconnected when changing batteries, especially the micro plugs on Canon R5/6s.
  5. I have Nauticam housings for the 502 HD monitor and Canon R6 that I bought recently. The thick HDMI cable passes through the monitor housing without interruption. However on the camera housing there are two connections required at the bulkhead, both micro HDMI Inside the camera housing is a much smaller wire with male micro HDMI plugs at each end, one going into the camera and the other to the bulkhead. I think it's this wire that has the bad reputation. With my setup, Nauticam didn't take advantage of the larger M24 opening on the camera housing since a M24-M16 step down adapter is required to mount the double female micro HDMI adapter. The problem is you have to back out the camera each time you change the battery, which requires slack and flexibility. The HDMI 2.0 cable is way too thick for that and needs to be reduced to a thinner cable. In the monitor housing, which uses a full size HDMI plug, you can connect it and not have to touch it for the entire trip, or forever as long as the cable stays good. I have been very gentle with these wires and have not had a problem after close to a 100 dives. I do travel with spare cables and would factor in that cost when buying these monitors.
  6. Do you carry a muck stick for additional stability?
  7. For Canon shooters using a WACP-1, the back button focus should be used. The lens behind the WACP-1 is an old, clunky Canon lens (28-70mm f3.5-4.5) which is not that fast. I've often gotten out of focus shots when using only the shutter lever, where it couldn't focus fast enough before the shutter opened.
  8. Hi All, I'm Richard from Northern California. I learned to dive and got my first underwater camera back in the early 80s - Nikon N2020 in an Ikelite housing. I'm just returning to the sport after a couple decade hiatus. I just bought a new camera system that I plan to use around the world hopefully for another 5-10 years. Thanks for all the great information from staff and members. Best, Richard
  9. The Canon RF 15-35mm is probably the lens you want to first consider if looking native. From some tests I've seen its sharper than the EF 16-35mm II. I'm not sure the Ikelite 8' dome would do it justice though. You might want to upgrade to one of the higher end housings to get a glass dome. However the cost of the RF 15-35mm plus a nice glass dome port would put you in the price range of a WACP-1. I have the Nauticam R6 housing and it was almost like a research project deciding on all the settings I wanted. Not all the buttons and controls are necessary underwater. Beyond the choice of optics, things to consider on a new housing is how easy it is to change batteries, SD cards, ports and lenses. It makes a difference when doing 4 dives a day on a long trip.
  10. Thanks for posting video. We'll be down there in Dec, Dos Ojos. Any tips for diving there? Is it ok to stray from the guide line for better camera angles? Did you do a lot shallow breathing to maintain buoyancy? What were your camera settings?
  11. I have a pair of those big blues in tri color that I used on one trip so far. Based on measurements in a pool, the angle of coverage is about 90 degrees. There might be scattered light outside of that but its of no use. I never felt that I needed less power so just kept it on the high setting the whole trip. Even with the power of these lights you still have to get inside of 3 feet before the colors of the corals come out. As a beginner I was too worried about other things, camera settings, positioning, light angle, holding still, not kicking coral, etc. Color temperature of the video light was lower on the list.
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