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Aussiejosho last won the day on October 30 2016

Aussiejosho had the most liked content!

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About Aussiejosho

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    Moray Eel

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony Z100 and Panasonic HVX200
  • Camera Housing
    always Gates
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Gates GT14s
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  1. 1. Yes, razor sharp from what I can tell. No softness I've seen. 2. Yep, small DOF but sharp. 3. Not yet. I can't bring myself to take off the SWP. I always want establishing shots and the chance of something big is always there. 4. No idea. 5. No noise at all that I've seen. The HVX200 was my previous camera and was noisy as hell. This one just gets dark. I never use any gain so that might be helping too.
  2. Here's a nudi that is probably about as big in the frame as I can get. The beast is around 2 inches long I think : https://www.pond5.com/stock-footage/61962162/sea-lemon-slug-sand-peltodoris-nobilis-4k-ultrahd-up33866.html Spare set of batteries is a must for live aboard diving. I am sitting in an airport with pants weighed down with 4 of them right now. Good luck with the epic saga that is the RED thread, took me weeks to get through it all, even though I had decided against RED half way through. Some interesting tidbits in there from some super experienced shooters - even not going RED I still picked up plenty of new information. The Z100 batteries last longer than me in the water - you could probably do a couple of dives on a charge, but I always start with a fresh one. I've never run out of camera battery. Lights, yes, cards often, disc space always, but camera battery never. I've usually been really happy with the WB, I have found a few conditions in greenish water that I got to look really ugly but that may have been more user error than camera function. Shooting in very shallow but dirty water can be hard to see the screens (monitor and viewfinder) to get accurate colour monitoring. But even in low light, as long as it isn't too green, the Z100 WB works really well. It probably works fine in green water too, I just manage to avoid green most of the time so haven't had much experience with it. The AX100 looks pretty good to me.
  3. Hey guys, thanks for the mention and kind words. I have to start with I am not a big camera guy, they are just the best way to record fish. I love cameras, but I can't keep up with them. When time for an upgrade I always start with an email to John and Pam at Gates and find out what they recommend. Then I get that. I do my research, but then I do what they said. Those guys know me well and know what I shoot and how I shoot it and I've been very happy with their advice in the past. I narrowed my housing company down to one years ago so that simplifies things, then it is just down to budget and how much weight you want to carry around. I agree with all the advice in this thread, apart from the new computer/software, hard drives also become expensive. On a liveaboard if I fill my cards on every dive, I can use 2TB of storage each day.(I have never managed this BTW). Excess luggage fees are an extra kick in the goolies whenever you get away to shoot. I love the Z100 in the Gates/Fathoms lens and for me, full zoom through and a nice wide angle lens which gets me from a nudi to a whale in a second or so is the most critical feature, as dreifish says - versatility. Missing a shot because you have the wrong lens on is something you can cut out altogether if you don't have to change lenses. My main objective is to be able to shoot every species any time, regardless of size. I also always want an establishing shot but if you don't do it at the same time, in the same light, current etc. it makes editing more difficult. I found focusing a bit tricky without the TVL monitor(in Gates housing) - peaking is a godsend. I also found the autofocus a bit too good I think picking up particles in the water, so I always use manual focus. To polish the rig off, the GT14 lights are another big chunk of change but they make a huge difference. One final word on the weight of these larger cameras, fully loaded with lights and tripod, my rig is 27kg. Pretty heavy if you have to carry it any sort of distance, especially in your wetsuit in warm weather. At the time I was shopping, I also considered the F5, F55 and RED. RED's bubble blower forum put me off that, the larger size and cost put me off the F cameras.
  4. Thanks lutfu, Quick trip to Singapore was the solution. 2 days and back in the water.
  5. Hey Soggypixelers, It has been a while since my last visit, shame to return under these circumstances. I know this sounds bad, but I just flooded my camera and I want to rent yours. Actually I'd rather buy one. Anyone have a better plan than me flying to Singapore tomorrow to get one? 6000+ dives without a flood. Was in the rinse tank, I didn't put it there. Catastrophic but freshwater and the cards full of hairy frogfish survived mercifully. We are only here for a week on the way home from 14 days in Raja Ampat and would rather not stop shooting just yet. Wide open to suggestions.... Thanks in advance. Josh PS it is Easter, how's that for bad timing? PPS am shooting with the brand spanking new Gates GT14 lights and they rock like none other.....
  6. The missus is selling her customised Subal D300 kit including cameras, lenses, ports, cords, etc. The housing and camera bodies have had some specialist tweaks to allow for fibre-optic sync cords and TTL exposures. All in full working order. • Subal ND30 underwater camera housing with GS180 viewfinder • 2 x Nikon D300 camera bodies, batteries, chargers • Subal FE2 8" glass dome port • Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoom lens • Subal zoom gear for the Tokina • Subal EXR-18 extension ring for the Tokina • Sigma 17-70mm zoom lens • Subal zoom gear for the Sigma • Subal EXR-40 extension ring for the Sigma • B+W 72mm close-up NL +3 diopter for the Sigma • small Subal flat port • large Subal flat port • Macro-Mate flip diopter • Sea&Sea 5-pin single sync cord • Sea&Sea 5-pin dual sync cord • Inon fibre-optic dual sync cord • 2 x Inon fibre-optic single sync cords Photos, descriptions and contact info on our website http://www.underseaproductions.com/subal-d300 Asking US $3950 or nearest best offer, plus trackable and insured shipping.
  7. Hi Elliot, I'm looking forward to seeing your results. I have also just started using the Z100 in Gates (thankfully none of the AX100 video output problems HGVT reported) and am loving the rig and results. Only 16 dives so far and much to learn but the sharpest images I have ever made and that makes even average(boring) subjects seem amazing again. Cheers, Josh
  8. Thanks Drew, Nothing much to share. I have mostly stuck with the default settings so far for Gamma, Knee etc. I am still testing but have seen no need to change anything yet beyond adding ND filters (which is clunky on land but smooth underwater), and flicking between Auto and Manual focus. I am really spending most of my time trying to check focus above all else, and the auto iris and shutter are doing really well without me. As for dynamic range, the opening shot is straight at the sun through the kelp but deep enough to not blow out without any ND. I'm not one for testing specs too exhaustively but I'm pretty sure I'm getting significantly more range than I had with the HVX. I shot the early morning sun from 5m in pretty good vis and it looks great - no banding at all but I still haven't tried a high sun in clear shallow water.
  9. Thanks Nick. I haven't seen how it looks in a tiled pool yet, but in-the-wild footage looks sharp to the edges. Yep, I've decided I need to share the horrors of what we see with the good stuff.
  10. Hi All, For those of you wanting to see some test footage, here you go... I had 5 dives with the Z100 in Gates in various California sites (in some pretty poor vis) and was super impressed with the rig. Having happily used the Gates HVX200 exclusively for the past 8 years, the upgrade was a pleasure. So far I am not seeing any of the noise I struggled with in the HVX. We had crap vis everywhere we dived, but the autofocus and one-touch white balance were both incredible compared to the HVX. Even at 20m under kelp and soup the camera did a great job of finding the right subject to focus on. I was using Gates early prototype LEDs that throw a boatload of even light, and everything moves slowly and fairly predictably in the kelp and the camera was incredible in these conditions. I have found the autofocus will hunt when the fish and waters are fast moving as we often encounter in tropical reefs and coastlines, but it will find the focus quickly and the switch to manual lock is very easy to reach and toggle on the housing. The Gates housing is a dream to trim and balance with the bouyant collar around the Fathoms SPW44C along with the trim wieght options. I have used two different light configurations and a tripod, and a GoPro mounted and was able to achieve perfect trim with each variation. I have done a couple of dives since coming home to amazing vis in the river and will post some of that blue water, white sand footage when I can. Cheers, Josh
  11. I've done a few bluewater filming dives and can offer this: Focus - you should use manual to avoid hunting and I would choose the distance you hope for the best possible shot. I you are hoping for a buzz within a meter, then set the focus at that distance. If the vis is rubbish then set it even closer. Lens - wide as you have, especially with zoom through. MWB - always manual, take something white - I don't for regular diving because there is always something to balance on but in the blue (or green) there is nothing other than your buddies and they will be in all black and their tanks could be any colour. Balance constantly as you descend (I do it every time I equalize) - eventually, it won't work any more because the light will be too low, but at least you have the closest possible balance. Also, in the blue, there isn't much colour, the viewer expects blue so shooting a bit cooler than usual only matters with models, not the sharks, rays, whatever else you are expecting to find. Good luck.
  12. We've put together a special custom itinerary that takes in all three highlights off the tropical east coast of Australia: 1. Get in the water with minke whales. And pick the brains of the minke whale researcher, specially onboard for the trip 2. Dive the world-famous sites of the Great Barrier Reef's Ribbon Reefs: Cod Hole, Pixie's Pinnacle, Steve's Bommie... 3. Dive the pristine reefs of the remote Coral Sea Luxury accommodation and service aboard Mike Ball's Spoilsport The trip lasts for 10 glorious days (…normally only 3, 4 or 7 day itineraries are offered for this diving region during the minke whale season). You'll also get... - Free video / photo workshop - Free trip video DVD Dates: 13-23 June 2011 Last spaces remaining: 1 x Premium cabin 1 x Club cabin 0.5 x Standard cabin Full details, pricing, itinerary and video on our website: Australia dive trip, Undersea Productions, June 2011 Hope you can make it. Cheers Josh
  13. This sounds like the same problem I had a few years ago with my Amphibico Navigator 900 housing. My solution was to make the wheel fatter buy rolling it up in plumbers tape (also called thread tape). Its a fiddly job to get started, but if you can get a lot of tension on it from the start, you can then just keep winding it around(by rolling the wheel from the outside) until you have enough extra thickness on the wheel. To finish it off, pull hard to break the tape while holding the wheel (don't cut the tape). That seals the tape on there nicely without needing glue. It worked well on mine and stayed that way for more than a year until I sold the housing. Incidentally, I've used the same technique on an Ikelite D90 stills housing once too. Good luck. Josh
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